returning to RC racing (offroad electric)

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Mylaps kind of has the monopoly when it comes to timing systems and transponders. Unfortunately they never go on sale either. You don't need the "pro" transponder ones, just a regular "rc4." They run about $90 no matter where you buy them unless a site like eBay is doing a coupon code for the entire site or a site like amain or horizon that has monthly email coupons like $7.50 off $75 or more.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/mylaps-rc4-3wire-direct-powered-personal-transponder-ait10r120/p260528


Also I think you're overthinking and worrying about this antenna thing too much. Most of them don't even stick out of the car anymore or if they do, they hardly get in the way of anything. It's not like the old 27mhz ones where they stuck out a foot or so from your car. ?


Also Demon mentioned tires, and that's something you def want to find out what people at your specific track are running before buying.
 
I'll go get tires bought or figured out tomorrow !

Are you able to tell me what screws or when I should use the locktite before I start assembling?
 
I'll go get tires bought or figured out tomorrow !

Are you able to tell me what screws or when I should use the locktite before I start assembling?
Anything threaded into metal throw some blue picture on excluding engine screws, I do sometimes on engine mounts though
 
thanks havent done any threads into metal yet, I'm two step away from the servo hookup and i have no servo so the build is getting paused i guess - track tomorrow to look around.
 
Dont know of racing limitations on servos, but savox seems to be a really good brand, will day though I'm liking my hitec hs646wp, 130 oz in and waterproof for 43$ but might not be fast enough for race application.
 
As Demon said, anything metal into metal, use loctite. The manual should also specify what parts to use it on. Some of the parts may also show to use black grease on some screws going into plastic. A little tip, grab a stick of chapstick and use a little of that instead.
Would love to see some progress pics of your build too :)

Also another little tip, when you get to painting a body, make sure you only use paint designed for lexan. I personally use the Tamiya polycarbonate paint and like it a lot with blue 3M painters tape to mask it off if need be. Most bodies come with window masks as well. If your kit didn't come with one, I'm a super Jconcepts fanboy when it comes to bodies. I have one on my talion, had one on my Rustler, and just painted a new one for my TLR as well. :) They hold up well. Pro-line bodies are nice but they are a little too thick and rigid for my tastes and seem to crack easily in comparison.
 
I'll try to post pics tomorrow haha just got the chassis and bulkhead configuration together .

We have a pretty nice local artist here that does all kinds of cool poop I asked him if he'd paint it for me.. he said for $60 he would so I'm gonna explore that I tried to paint a body back in the day and it looked horrible. Thanks for chap stick suggestion
 
400+ on the bec 7.4 what I'm trying to find servo wise seems that should do the job for racing torque If that's properly worded lol.

Might have to dish out $200 on that unfortunately it seems all the ads with th xr10 they get bought up super fast
 
I've decided to get the xr10 160a or the tekin rs gen 2 or gen 3, if anyone can chime in on these 3 products i would appreciate it. I am probably going to order it tomorrow night so i can poke around for a good deal or ebay or somethign
 
someones selling a used rx8 gen 3 , is that too big for the t6.1?
 
Yeah the RX8 is for 1/8th scale cars.
I have the Tekin Gen3 Spec esc and I love it. I actually had the hobbywing justock esc (their cheapest one :D) and it was defective so I upgraded to a decent one after returning it. But being I just race 17.5 spec and don't worry about timing, you will prob want the one that does have those features.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-rs-gen3-sensored-brushless-esc-tektt1156/p972037
Cheaper than the hobbywing as well.

140amps, 7.4v BEC, and can take up to 2s 8.5 turn motors.

if you want to do any of the advanced settings and need the hotwire program card, I'm 100% sure someone at your track has one. Otherwise they are like $30 for the USB version or $70 for the blutooth. (the usb works fine though)
 
Savox SC-1258TG. Is the servo I selected. I almost got a ds7002 bk as it is bad ass for the price and may get one next not totally sure. I saw a good review on the 1258tg so I went for it. Trying to get the same bang for buck right now hunting an esc ?
 
I see some chargers on ebay if I can get one much cheaper I'm All for it
 
If anyone can chime in, is it okay to advance past servo part and come back to that later possibly start building the rear and leave front alone? Or some reason to wait? Every second I'm NOT working on it bothers me lol. Yall are gonna laugh when you see the wrench I used so far! Those damn bits are slow to ship on eBay. Got a bunch of stuff being delivered Sunday via Amazon. Need to buy a charger battery motor esc and tires/wheels possibly few other things but that's what stands out. Gotta get a 13.5 to run the truck I think race wise at the track but I'll confirm that tomorrow oh gotta get a pinion too. I can hopefully get some suggestions tomorrow for that as well . Any questions you think of I should ask in addition??
 
The best price I can find on an ac/DC charger appears to be the Orion dual . Is this sufficient or is it too weak. Someone recommended 120w x2. And as I read I believe this only does 100w per not 120
 
went to the track got jconcepts tires for rear and ones for front for carpet, wheels and the foam, i ordered this savox servo -> 1258-tg some guy there i spoke to was sponsored.

he had about $500 invested he said in charging with a 40 amp discharge and also being able to charge at 40amps he said, he had an iCharger - i mentioned to him someone saying their failure rate seen and he quickly said thats likely due to user error. in any case I suppose i need to find out from someone if that powerup 120w charger can hookup to the external discharge and or opt to get a 40amp larger charge etc.
 
also the track/shop didnt have a gear diff for the t6 until wednesday,, the sponsored guy said try amain for the gera diff and if they dont have the whole thing as a purchase i would need to buy it part by part on there with the list.

if anyone can point me to a gear diff in stock somewhere i would appreciate it
 
The associated b6.1 differential kit is listed as the correct gear diff kit for the t6.1 on the manufacturer page. It's in stock and around $39 on amain hobbies and horizon hobby.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com...ls/91786-ASC91786-b6_1_gear_differential_kit/

119248



https://www.horizonhobby.com/gear-differential-kit:-b61-p-asc91786

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-b6.1-b6.1d-gear-differential-kit-asc91786/p742855\

Shipping with the holiday would def take longer than wed if you just waited til' the shop has it, unless they're charging way more for it.


And there's no way you need a charger that charges 40amps. That's ridiculous, unnecessary for a beginner, and quite frankly, unsafe as well.
 
lol you just are totally against helping figure out how to get that 40a discharge/charge

despite track saying batteries must be in cases charging etc - sponsored guy had his charging right in his car without brace even being off.. which is what I've read is very common.

anyways he said that 1258tg servo savox that he had in his truck he didnt like and was glitchy. now i read about it everywhere saying glitch this glitch buster that -

Great servo for the price. I will note that when using a lrp spin super esc I needed to add a glitch buster to my receiver other wise the rear tires would spin when turning my wheels even though I was not giving the transmitter any forward or reverse input. I will also say that I am new to building rc kits so it took me some research to figure out this problem. I thought I got a bad esc so I ordered a reedy blackbox 800z esc/ motor combo and that worked fine with this servo and did not need to use a glitch buster with this setup.

can someone please advise as to what I should buy now to make this servo work right without glitching? :(

sucks buying stuff then finding out theres problems with its operation right out of the box without buying more poop. this is waht i was trying to avoid, didnt read anythinga bout servo issues glitching until after buying this
 
Servo glitchiness is usually caused by an esc not drawing enough power or a poopy onboard BEC. You shouldn't have any issues if you get a decent esc with it. I did a quick search myself and it seems as though most of the complaints are on the traxxas forums, and not surprised. Their electronics are garbage and I'm not shocked in the slightest people are having problems when trying to run a decent servo on them. Also that quote you posted I'm assuming is form a forum, and that lrp super spin esc is a cheap $50 esc. Again, not surprised it had issues. It states he had no issues after getting a decent reedy combo. Also if a glitch buster is necessary, they are $4 or even cheaper on ebay and they just plug in. You shouldn't have any issues or be worried.


And yes, I am totally against helping you find a way to charge at 40amps as a beginner and pretty new to lipo batteries. it's completely unnecessary for your level of racing and again, a risk of injury. The battery can easily overheat and vent.
Google lipo venting on youtube and then decide whether you want to attempt it or not.
 
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