i really have no clue what to say for diff oil, i know associated is good about sharing set-up sheets, dont know if there is one with ball diff oil recommendations, as it seems alot run the ball diff. definitely going to take some experimenting, i know most of the rigs people say to use 10k in the rear, but this is also for 4wd. hope you get it figured out, been following your build lol.btw -
This is a 4cc tube of Team Associated Stealth differential lube. Team Associated spent countless hours developing this diff lube for their Stealth Transmission. This silicone based diff lube is used on the 3/32" carbide diff balls that fit inside the main diff gear, and can be used in any ball differential.
thats the description of that diff lube and this isnt a ball diff, so I'm hoping since i ddint rub that stuff in i can just swab it off and then get the proper stuff ordered up once someone chimes in
You sure you didn't mistakenly add an extra "0" in those diff fluid numbers?I managed to get it together with the guide I found googling which isn't this model but it was mostly the same except the first larger shim you only put one instead of two becYse it only comes with two that size. Easy enough to figure out .
I need to buy some CST diff fluid. Dunno should I buy 60000 or 100000 what's the difference? Thanks in advance.
Is there any suggestions on pinion sizes to buy any motor recommendations for a 13.5t race motor ?
I scored a Tekin RS gen2 on eBay last night it will be here by Tuesday. I'll keep an eye out for a hotwire
i normally use just regular rubber bands and make sure there is good tension on the tires, but i do not race, so perfection isnt necessary. the bands are cool though and one day i may order a set, but I've been pretty happy with the results of doing it with regular rubber bands. again though, i do not race, so take this with a grain of salt.alright the shocks i have installed the standard way, it wappears that a lot of people/racers put them on the inside of the shock post rather than the back/outside. i suppose i can run the truck standard and see how it does - any suggestions on carpet as to why the front side of tower would be better for rear shocks?
also I'm going to order some CA glue now for the tires i bought and get this thing rolling here on saturday
any suggestion on applying pressure to get these sealed up- is it worth buying the 9-12$ plastic things that slide over and hold in place? or even the bands i see for sale? or is there something at home that can be used to work just as well - would really appreciate any feedback on this so I can get it ordered tonight for friday delivery!
for the trim, i would center the servo, pull off the horn, and then re-attach the horn when the wheels are somewhat straight. that way you have guaranteed full movement either way and reduced risk of binding.i adjusted my steering trim right 47 or 48 it says and it seems to drive pretty straight now, just have a question about getting these tires ready to drive etc. - should i trim the edges of the foam at all like shown in one youtube video? or does it not need trimmed? thanks i appreciate the advice as always! the mylaps and hotwire came and i got the tekin software setup and changed the config to 7.4v bec now to get more servo power. the owner of it must have never stopped smoking cigarettes it smells so bad you can smell the smoke smell thru a ziplock where i stored it for now