Proline Pro Mt 4x4

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Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll give it some more thought.

Price is the main issue. I don't really want to sink another $150 in parts into the Pro-MT just to make it bashable, when I can get a comparable truck for less.

Maybe I'll feel differently when I get it all put together and I run it a few times.
 
I spent $14 dollars so far on needed replacements. but did a bunch of my own mods. I got time into this thing. Mostly because it was already built. I tore it down and built it properly. But it’s still less work and money than other RC’s I had. It’s a easy platforms to modify for bashing. Simple pan chassis with 3 diffs. Here is another thought. Proline doesn’t run a model for many years like other companies will. They always just quit one and do something else. But I do think the parts stay available for a while. The 2 issues are the lower pillow ball cap backs out. You put a grub screw in the bottom plastic to hold it. And...that steering arm needs to be aluminum. That part will be about $18 to $25 bucks. The tiny bearings in the rack. Bushings from Depot. $3 bucks maybe. It’s all stuff people should not have to do. But it is a versions one RC. My Kraton took a while to get way better. Cheap rubbery rc’s Sometimes do have a better value. They don’t handle as well and have less tunability. But they don’t make you worry much. The Redcat that was mentioned is a very very good suggestion. I really should get that one also. I need a few due to having 2 boys.
 
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I have one. It has great shocks and diffs.

F8679BDF-3DCD-4EB2-9F5A-11FEF2BD453A.jpeg
 
I finally got around to trying mine out. What a fun truck to drive! It's very different from anything else I have had. It's fun like a 1/8 scale but so compact and stubby so it feels very different. I think this guy's gonna get a lot of use.
 
I've had this truck a few days. I got to run it a bunch Sunday and it is an instant favorite. I did break the pivot ball threaded shafts but it was a really hard hit on a failed front flip. Part should be here Thursday and I can't wait to get it back running again. Here's an edit of various runs I had this past Sunday. I ran about 10 packs through it and broke it just before it got dark. Fun day with the Pro MT 4x4

 
I've had this truck a few days. I got to run it a bunch Sunday and it is an instant favorite. I did break the pivot ball threaded shafts but it was a really hard hit on a failed front flip. Part should be here Thursday and I can't wait to get it back running again. Here's an edit of various runs I had this past Sunday. I ran about 10 packs through it and broke it just before it got dark. Fun day with the Pro MT 4x4

I've run mine a few times now too and love it! I didn't expect a smaller truck like this to drive so nice and be as fun as the best 1/8 scales. This thing is going to get a lot of use! I kept the weight from being too crazy by using a tekin ESC, a 1/8 buggy motor, and keeping the battery fairly small. Couldn't be happier.
 
I have one. It has great shocks and diffs.

View attachment 18265

Hi

So how tough is the Tekno MT410, have you had very many problems or parts braking? I really like the fact that it comes in kit form, and from what I have seen on youtube, Tekno has under rated the truck unlike the E-Revo which was over rated. I think I am going to start saving up so I can get one by the end of the year.
 
Hey guys, new to this forum and new to building RC’s. First i want to say this thread has a ton of info on it, thank you to everyone who helped generate this.

I have a question, since i am new to building RC’s i dont quite understand all the specs of the electronics. I found this thread because it has been recommended by numerous people in different locations when people ask this question: What electronics did you put in your Pro-MT 4x4? There has been a ton of back and fourth in this thread, people switching out components, etc..

For those of you that have this model, can you make a quick post and list what electronics you put in and why? That way it can help the new guys figure out what to put in. I know there isnt one right answer, it depends on what you like and drive style but at least its a starting point. I just read all 10 pages of this thread and its not clear to me at all what i should be using. So if you wouldnt mind, what ESC, Motor, Servo, and Transmiter did you use. This would be a big help and to many others seeking help.

I'm not really sure why proline doesn’t have this info on thier site.

I just pulled the trigger on this roller and excited to make other purchases.
 
Proline got back to me and actually recommended this:

MONSTER X 25.2V ESC,8A PEAK BEC W / 1515-2200KV


 
I guess. I mean it's really gonna come down to what you want out of it. There is no need for the big 1515 really.

I felt it best to keep the weight down as much as I could while still being a beast. It can also fit a pretty huge battery but I went with a modest 4S 4000mAh which I find gets decent runtime in my setup.

I personally used a tekin ESC cause a) i had one and b) it's a fair amount lighter than most other brand 150A ESCs. I also went with the buggy size (Castle 2650KV) motor to save a bit of weight over the 1515. To me it is foolish to put the 1515 in here. I mean I like power as much as the next guy, but running 6S in this is more than you can use in most normal use and the higher KV buggy motor is probably stronger on 4S than the 2200KV anyway and you get a bit of weight savings.

A great cheaper ESC choice that I would consider would be the Hobbywing SC8. Again with a nice KV 1/8 scale buggy sized motor. There are a lot of comparable sized motors from brands such as Leopard too if you can't find a good deal on a Castle 2650KV. Such as the Leopard 4065 size in 2700KV , or the 3674 size in 2650KV or 2200KV.

Theres a reason why people are all over the place in this thread... Cause there's a lot of choices out there... even a lot of good choices.

(edit: leopard 4065 size means 40mmX65mm and 3674 is obviously 36mmX74mm. They both feel quite equal in power. I have owned them both in 2700KV and 2650KV respectively)
 
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Oh and for servos, I like Savox for the value. Something like a Savox 1256 would do fine in a truck this size. I have a 1283 in mine.
 
Well the 1515 2650 castle is sold out everywhere so it looks like the 2650 is going to be it.
 
So i spoke with proline about switching to the 1512 2650kv motor and this is what they had to say:

so higher KV motor is going to have tons of torque and will be VERY fast with less voltage. the only problem is that you will not be able to put too high of voltage to it because it will be too high RPM for the armature to take. I dont think you will be disappointed on 4S with this motor. I'd call the Castle guys and get their opinion.


How do i regulate how much voltage goes through it to make sure its not an issue? I really dont understand why it can even be any issue but the motor and monster X are designed for each other??
 
How do i regulate how much voltage goes through it to make sure its not an issue? I really don't understand why it can even be any issue but the motor and monster X are designed for each other??

You use the right voltage battery for the motor. In the case of the 2650KV, a 4S (14.8V nominal) battery is the maximum they recommend.

Either one of those 2 motors is fine with the Mamba Monster X.

As far as being "designed for each other", ESCs have an upper limit for how physically big and how high of a KV motor you can use without exceeding the current limits of the ESC. Even staying within the recommended motor range, you could still damage something if you put it in a really heavy vehicle or just tried to gear it higher than it is capable of, which could put too much load on the motor or the ESC.

Most
any brand motor in the same physical size or smaller, with the same KV ratings or lower, would also work with that ESC, although you might have to solder the right plugs on the motor wire in that case. I don't mean to muddy up the water but just trying to say how most of this stuff is cross-compatible between brands as long as the motor doesn't draw more current than the ESC can push, and as long as they both work with the battery voltage you wanted to use.
 
Thanks for responding, i did order the 2650. So with that said, you use it. I plan to run 3s but have you run it on 4s with any issues?
 
It's pretty good on 4S. Just gotta take care to get the gear ratio right.
 

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