New to me AE pro4 sc10

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Picked up some shocks off jenny’s rc from a losi tenacity db. Running the stock pro4 springs.
Had to 3d print some tpu bushings for the top mount, bottom was a direct fit.
They are about 6mm shorter fully extended than the stock shocks, and the same length as stock compressed. Also 3.5mm shock shaft vs 3mm
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Also, put the pro4 and wide senton on the scale. Pro4 came in at 6.42 lbs with 5600mah 2s, wide senton came in at 8.0 lbs with same battery
 
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Picked up some shocks off jenny’s rc from a losi tenacity db. Running the stock pro4 springs.
Had to 3d print some tpu bushings for the top mount, bottom was a direct fit.
They are about 6mm shorter fully extended than the stock shocks, and the same length as stock compressed. Also 3.5mm shock shaft vs 3mmView attachment 169335View attachment 169336
Also, put the pro4 and wide senton on the scale. Pro4 came in at 6.42 lbs with 5600mah 2s, wide senton came in at 8.0 lbs with same battery
Interesting. Is that weight with the body on?
 
Also, put the pro4 and wide senton on the scale. Pro4 came in at 6.42 lbs with 5600mah 2s, wide senton came in at 8.0 lbs with same battery
That’s odd. My Pro4 weighs a bit over 2.7 kg or 6 lbs with the body and battery, all ready to go. My batteries are 5000 mAh but that shouldn’t make a difference.
 
Might be tires/wheels? I also have a motor fan, and some shoe-goo repairs on the body
 
Anyone ever run an external BEC or direct power servo on non-crawler vehicles?
Eventually ill likely be upgrading the esc in this truck, but might be a good stop-gap measure to run a betrer servo sooner.
I run external BEC's on my SCT's because I have a tendancy to add lights where there weren't any. Also run servos off of them because servos can handle higher voltage than the rx's.
I like this set up as it never slows my servos.
 
#1 Tip.
Never run your truck without the 'hairnet' dust cover in place.
It is a pain to put on and I always forget it.
Without the dust cover, You will lose the pinion cover eventually and the only way to replace that tiny part is to buy the WHOLE chassis for $35.
That cover is super important to keep rocks from getting into the spur/pinion and ruining the gears.

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Take it from someone who has made this mistake a few times.
 
I just got mine and installed a couple to try them out.
Did you ever test the replacement pills (tkr6544) to see how much of a difference they make? Is the anti-squat mod still required, these just allow you to fine tune?
 
Not sure that the ani-squat mod is “required”, just changes the way the truck drives. Might work for some and not others. The pills are just used for fine tuning suspension geometry.
 
Not sure that the ani-squat mod is “required”, just changes the way the truck drives. Might work for some and not others. The pills are just used for fine tuning suspension geometry.
Sorry, poor word choice on my end. What I meant by required was: is the anti-squat mod required to achieve somewhere near 1-2 degrees of anti squat? or could you get there with just the pills?
 
Sorry, poor word choice on my end. What I meant by required was: is the anti-squat mod required to achieve somewhere near 1-2 degrees of anti squat? or could you get there with just the pills?
Lumikko would be the one to ask for sure, but i think you would have to do the mod to get that much antisquat
 
Did you ever test the replacement pills (tkr6544) to see how much of a difference they make? Is the anti-squat mod still required, these just allow you to fine tune?
I got the pills and they are in use. The adjustment effects and range are the same as on any truck: a couple of degrees.

The pills shift the ends of the hinge pin less than a millimeter. The anti-squat mod raises the front ends by 3 mm. The mod is a coarse move to get you in the range, pills are more precise.

That’s not to say the pills are a fine-tuning thing for making small changes. Using them to raise or lower the roll centers, or adjust the rear toe in, makes significant differences to the handling.

As for whether the anti-squat mod is mandatory… a quick look at a thick stack of setup sheets will reveal that no-one uses pro-squat angles in off-road buggies or trucks. The amount may differ but the hinge pins are always at least level or the fronts are higher. (Relative to a flat surface below the vehicle.) If the handling of the truck seems to require pro-squat in the rear, there’s probably a problem elsewhere in your setup that should be addressed.

In my view, a flipped C-block is the only way to go, and using the pills from there gives you a range of hinge pin angles similar to what actual off-road racing vehicles have.
 
Kind of amazing there isnt more afternarket support for this platform.
Given the price, its seems like a no brainer for something in between a full on basher and a race truck.
-overall stout design without too much weight
-3 fluid filled diffs
-all metal diff gears
-steel turnbuckles and pillow balls
-bearing supported steering system
-adjustable a/b/c/d blocks with aluminum blocks.
-adjustable akerman
-adjustable suspension link positions
-adjustable shock positions
-anti-roll bars

Seems like so much for the money!

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Sadly, the Losi Tenacity TT Pro fills that niche much better. It’s a basher you can race or racer you can bash.

Make an LCG chassis kit for the Pro4 and we’re talking race-capable truck. As it is, no amount of tuning and upgrading lifts it out of the class where it’s competitive against Sentons and Slashes.
 
Sadly, the Losi Tenacity TT Pro fills that niche much better. It’s a basher you can race or racer you can bash.

Make an LCG chassis kit for the Pro4 and we’re talking race-capable truck. As it is, no amount of tuning and upgrading lifts it out of the class where it’s competitive against Sentons and Slashes.
While that might all be true if coming from a racing perspective. I feel its a way more fun and durable truck than my senton was when just used for fun on my own track or general bashing.
My senton needed a lot more upgrades to get to the same durability level. I dont so much mean actual broken parts, as much as slop and loosness. The arrma i went through so many hubs, pillow balls, steering assemblies it was rediculous. As well as diff input gears. I also didnt like the lack of suspension adjustment on the senton.
This, of course, is just my opinion and with my use and conditions.
While i certainly would not consider it a “race” vehicle, i feel it has a good balance of basher durability and race style adjustability. Keeps it entertaining, and more fun to tinker with compared him to the senton, which in a way “is what it is” other than bling and dress up parts.
I have not owned a slash, so can't speak to that.
I do agree that a LCG chassis conversion would really level up the truck tho.
Still, considering the support that the slash and senton have in the aftermarket, its wild that there is almost nothing available for the pro4.
The tenacity tt is 500, the pro4 is 340. Thats a big dollar difference.
 
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All tidy’d up, ready to play!
New motor/esc/pinion installed. Went from 3300kv to 4100kv so i dropped from a 15t to a 13t pinion to start. I'm sure once the outside temps climb ill have to bring the motor fan back as well.

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Hmm. Wanting someone to compare this between a slash 4x4 and tekno sct410. Wanting a 4WD SCT for a while now.
 
Hmm. Wanting someone to compare this between a slash 4x4 and tekno sct410. Wanting a 4WD SCT for a while now.
I have all three and I'd rank them this way.

Value: SC10, Slash, Tekno (edge to SC10 due to center diff vs slipper). To me Tekno quality is well worth the asking price, but it makes it nearly double the cost of the Associated.

Quality: Tekno, SC10, Slash

Parts support: Slash, SC10-Tekno (SC10 and Tekno are on-line only around here)
 
The tenacity tt is 500, the pro4 is 340. Thats a big dollar difference.
The improvements you get are easily worth the 160-dollar difference. The Tenacity comes with a programmable 130A ESC, aluminium shocks, and aluminium shock towers. Not to mention it has a flat aluminium chassis with a low center of gravity. You can pitch one against actual race trucks like a Tekno on any surface. With a Pro4, you have to be a considerably better driver. Between equal drivers, it’s a losing game.

I dislike being so negative about the Pro4 since I own one and have put a lot of effort into tuning it. But it is what it is.
 
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