islandlife
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Well sure the extra money may be worth it. But for a lot of people, that extra money is a deal breaker.The improvements you get are easily worth the 160-dollar difference. The Tenacity comes with a programmable 130A ESC, aluminium shocks, and aluminium shock towers. Not to mention it has a flat aluminium chassis with a low center of gravity. You can pitch one against actual race trucks like a Tekno on any surface. With a Pro4, you have to be a considerably better driver. Between equal drivers, it’s a losing game.
I dislike being so negative about the Pro4 since I own one and have put a lot of effort into tuning it. But it is what it is.
Yeah people want stuff to be cheap. And then they ask which motor/esc combo and aluminium shocks they should buy as ”must have” upgrades.Well sure the extra money may be worth it. But for a lot of people, that extra money is a deal breaker.
That’s reasonable. I think the Tenacity falls nicely in between because it has the cost of a race kit but comes ready to run.Sometimes a lower entry cost let's people with budget challenges try out a new hobby.
I know people who can justify $330 for a RTR AE SC10, but can't get to the $470 + Radio + Servo + Motor + ESC + Wheels/Tires + body cost to try a Tekno SC.
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...-team-associated-pro4-sc10-rival-mt10.138158/Glad I found this thread. I've been running my Pro4 in a 4wd SCT mod class for fun and getting spanked by a field of teknos and couple 2wd AE/Losi trucks. I'm trying to get my driver skills up to snuff but this is a really fun platform to work on and race.
Here's my current setup:
View attachment 185459
Old LRP 6.5t sensored motor (turned way way down)
12t pinion
120amp quicrun ESC
Powerhobby servo
Stock shock oil wt
Stock diff wt (diffs were practically dry when I got them)
Using shorty packs to save a little weight
Flysky gt5 tx/Rx gyro off
Currently running bald eagles on a high bite clay track.
Where can I find more info on the antisquat? I've seen it mentioned a few forums/reddit but not 100% sure what is involved? Sounds like flipping the c block upside down?
Thanks, looking forward to trying this! I had a hell of a time getting the rear end to settle at our local track.
Internal shock limiters are for decreasing droop, not ride height. The front can benefit from 1–2 mm limiters inside the shock to decrease sudden oversteer mid-corner.Anyone try running shock limiters to lower the truck a couple mm?
what shocks are you running? i had some traxxas slash niride coated shocks that were a few mm shorter than stock shafts that i put in the truck the other night just to see how it handles. It lowered the ride height to where i think i want it.I run a slightly shorter shock, but i only rip mine for fun on my bumpy dirt track, no racing. So probably doesn't help you much haha