New Losi tenacity DB pro

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the diffs are all the same on the db pro and the tt pro. the ones out of the pack on the bottom of your pic look like the right ones. the ones in the pack are not and that is the part number for the ones on the bottom. so you stapled the wrong label on that pack or someone else did. this is the link of the correct ones and its the ones i used https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-front-rear-hd-lightened-outdrive-set-2-losb3575/p204174

Thx

I inserted the wrong outdrives in the wrong pack for return. I have the F/R for the front/rear diffs only and bought part # LOSB3576 for the center which is longer seen in the pic.

Thx for the catch I plan to return them had them in the wrong pack. Still, you answered my question. I need LOSB3575 for the f/r for all 3-diffs. Been reading posts from a year ago and the center part number was posted why I purchased them before ever getting the Losi.
 
If I want to install the Savox 2271 servo later on my DB along with a Spectrum voltage protector, where does the voltage protector plug into? It looks like it is recommended to use the protector with the Savox unit. I have a Spectrum stock receiver with plenty of aux plug ins left but I don't know where it would plug in at. Thanks ahead for any advice or help.
FWIW it’s worth I run a Savox 1258 with the stock receiver and have had zero issues with brown outs. I have a glitch protector but never installed it because I’ve had zero issues. Also running a fan off the receiver.
 
FWIW it’s worth I run a Savox 1258 with the stock receiver and have had zero issues with brown outs. I have a glitch protector but never installed it because I’ve had zero issues. Also running a fan off the receiver.

Hi

Newbie question. This application or servo is for my Losi DB Pro buggy. I replaced the stock Spektrum servo with a DS3230 30KG. The DS models I have used in all my Arrma rig and no issues.

The issue I have here is that the DS3230 is too tall! well over 40+ mm in height. Being so high the arm to the servo horn to the bell housing just too tall and need a lot of nylon washers to make it work to my comfort.

I looked at these two servos that are at 40mm or lower in height and close to the stock so the arm will be correct...making the swap easy.

Savox 1258TG that comes with a glitch buster I do not know what that is:
https://www.amazon.com/1258TG-GLITC...d=1&keywords=Savox+1258&qid=1617478051&sr=8-9


Savox SB 2271SG - Others with the Losi got this one could be overkill but fits in just right no issues
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OKVQV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What is a glitch buster?
Do I need to use or install the glitch buster with this Losi?
What are your thoughts?

@E-fanatic
 
Like I said, I never had any issues with a 1258tg in my Losi Tenacity DB Pro. I have a glitch buster (capacitor that plugs into spare receiver slots to cover any losses in voltage) but it wasn’t needn’t. I’ve never installed it. 1258tg runs fine with the stock ESC and receiver.
 
Thx

I inserted the wrong outdrives in the wrong pack for return. I have the F/R for the front/rear diffs only and bought part # LOSB3576 for the center which is longer seen in the pic.

Thx for the catch I plan to return them had them in the wrong pack. Still, you answered my question. I need LOSB3575 for the f/r for all 3-diffs. Been reading posts from a year ago and the center part number was posted why I purchased them before ever getting the Losi.
The outdrives coming out of the rear differential appear to be the lightened version on @E-fanatic's DB. Does anyone have the Losi part number for these? I found a set with regular set screws but the stock ones have a set screw/pin that inserts into the pinion gear inside the gearbox. The set I found has only one picture so I can't tell if pin would work maybe with another modified hole on the other side.
 
The outdrives coming out of the rear differential appear to be the lightened version on @E-fanatic's DB. Does anyone have the Losi part number for these? I found a set with regular set screws but the stock ones have a set screw/pin that inserts into the pinion gear inside the gearbox. The set I found has only one picture so I can't tell if pin would work maybe with another modified hole on the other side.

You can get the original part number for the OEM out drives in the manual..they are soft. The outdrives I purchased for the diffs f/r and even the center are these:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-f...-hd-lightened-outdrive-set-2-losb3575/p204174
 
Thanks for the reply but the center outdrives (that join with the two long drive shafts out of the center diff) are different from the front and rear outdrives. The centers are anchored by pins and are longer than the front and rear which are anchored by a set screw/pin combo. I just serviced my center diff and installed the ones you have provided the link for. Those are a lot better than the OEM parts and I hope they are harder.....certainly are lighter. The part I located is TLR332051 at Amain Hobbies but I'm not sure if it will work. They are listed for the TEN-SCTE but I understand a lot of the parts are interchangeable.
 
Thx

I inserted the wrong outdrives in the wrong pack for return. I have the F/R for the front/rear diffs only and bought part # LOSB3576 for the center which is longer seen in the pic.

Thx for the catch I plan to return them had them in the wrong pack. Still, you answered my question. I need LOSB3575 for the f/r for all 3-diffs. Been reading posts from a year ago and the center part number was posted why I purchased them before ever getting the Losi.
I have the Losi DB Pro and I bought the center longer out drives for mine. I had to return them back to Amain. They were too long and when installed on the center diff I could not put the center front drive shaft on. It hit/rubbed the out drive on the diff since it is at an angle. I am on the Arrma forum with the Losi discussion and they told me I bought the wrong one cannot use the center out drives that I returned. So I purchased the same ones I linked for the front and rear for the center. Golden worked as the guys told me....did not need the center since they are longer. If I can find the post I will put it here. In the end I use the same out drives for all 3 diffs. My OEM center diffs were the same size as the better HD diffs linked but not soft like the OEM.
 
Thanks for the reply but the center outdrives (that join with the two long drive shafts out of the center diff) are different from the front and rear outdrives. The centers are anchored by pins and are longer than the front and rear which are anchored by a set screw/pin combo. I just serviced my center diff and installed the ones you have provided the link for. Those are a lot better than the OEM parts and I hope they are harder.....certainly are lighter. The part I located is TLR332051 at Amain Hobbies but I'm not sure if it will work. They are listed for the TEN-SCTE but I understand a lot of the parts are interchangeable.
Here is the link

Post in thread 'The unofficial Losi Tenacity DB Pro thread by Alex.M. and slick2500.' https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ead-by-alex-m-and-slick2500.14799/post-503674
 
I have the Losi DB Pro and I bought the center longer out drives for mine. I had to return them back to Amain. They were too long and when installed on the center diff I could not put the center front drive shaft on. It hit/rubbed the out drive on the diff since it is at an angle. I am on the Arrma forum with the Losi discussion and they told me I bought the wrong one cannot use the center out drives that I returned. So I purchased the same ones I linked for the front and rear for the center. Golden worked as the guys told me....did not need the center since they are longer. If I can find the post I will put it here. In the end I use the same out drives for all 3 diffs. My OEM center diffs were the same size as the better HD diffs linked but not soft like the OEM.
That's good. The outdrive shaft must fit the pinion gear shaft inside with a pin then. It doesn't look like that in the manual drawing but I'll check it when I get around to servicing my front and rear diffs someday. The center diff ended up being easy to service even with my old man eyes. The front and rear are a little more involved with all the suspension and steering parts involved. I made it through my first one so at least I know what to expect. It's tedious work for an old man but I enjoyed it.
 
That's good. The outdrive shaft must fit the pinion gear shaft inside with a pin then. It doesn't look like that in the manual drawing but I'll check it when I get around to servicing my front and rear diffs someday. The center diff ended up being easy to service even with my old man eyes. The front and rear are a little more involved with all the suspension and steering parts involved. I made it through my first one so at least I know what to expect. It's tedious work for an old man but I enjoyed it.
I agree I'm in the same range as you. It took me about 2-3 hours to do tbe front. Took a little off at a time and stepped back and looked. Took pics and notes of each screw. Of the 3 diffs the rear to me was more involved since the wing cage is on the back that adds to the removal to get to the diff.

In the same Arrma forum link I did post the diff oils weights that Horizon Hobby sent me since they were not listed in the manual. But I found 7/10/5 f/c/r gives me a nice overdrive in the front to pull me out of curves on the dirt. My jumps are small dirt hills this is not a send it RC. It feels and moves very good sticks and moves.
 
I used Losi 10k on my service in the center. I'm not into racing so I'll use the 10k in all three when I do the other two. It takes a little study but I know there's a method where we could remove a minimal number of screws to keep the front and rear suspension as one complete unit without having to tear it all down and then re-assemble. I'm not too rough with mine but it does take a few smallish jumps and tumbles in my little backyard area and has the scars to show it. I bought this thing to maybe have a little fun with my four grandsons when they visit but they have shown very little interest. Computers and hand held little devices and phones control their lives. So, it's turned into some fun for me.
 
I replied on the Arrma forum but it is the set screw/pin loose allowing the outdrive to spin freely and cause the vehicle to lose 4WD. The outdrive attaches to the pinion gear in the rear diff so you lost 4WD. Just reinstall with blue Loctite and it should be okay unless there's some internal damage. I had the same thing happen but it was running on a stand on my work table.
 
I replied on the Arrma forum but it is the set screw/pin loose allowing the outdrive to spin freely and cause the vehicle to lose 4WD. The outdrive attaches to the pinion gear in the rear diff so you lost 4WD. Just reinstall with blue Loctite and it should be okay unless there's some internal damage. I had the same thing happen but it was running on a stand on my work table.

Thx for the reply...

I will look again but it looks like the screw/pin goes all way through so if it comes loose I don't see how it slips. Unless I am missing something or looking at the wrong screw.
 
If it is still in the hole and only "loose", you have other problems internally. Sounds like stripped or not engaged sun/spyder gears. If only the front wheels driving then that pin into the rear outdrive is not working correctly and must not be fully seated into the hole. Your picture on the Arrma forum is showing the right screw/pin. If it's out of that hole the outdrive will not be hooked up to the pinion shaft.
 
If it is still in the hole and only "loose", you have other problems internally. Sounds like stripped or not engaged sun/spyder gears. If only the front wheels driving then that pin into the rear outdrive is not working correctly and must not be fully seated into the hole. Your picture on the Arrma forum is showing the right screw/pin. If it's out of that hole the outdrive will not be hooked up to the pinion shaft.

Thx....pic is where I took it out. It was tight before I took it out to check it. I did clear all the gears in the rear diff and posted some pics on the other forum....sun gears show it has some bad spots. When I put it all back together it was gritty and locking again. I will order new internal gears because it could be forever before HH warranty those for me.
 
Might as well just get the new ones. I've seen all your pictures as I'm on both forums now. Just started the Arrma one the other day. I only have my one Losi buggy and the Arrma forum seems to have more Losi info than this forum. Good luck with your diff......I got my rear one torn apart tonight to clean and service tomorrow. I can't seem to get the pressed on bearings loose from the actual diff. They are large and ride in the housings that slide into the large gearbox case. I'll just clean them and let them go until I learn how to get them free. Any pointers? I hate to start prying on them.
 
Hi

Newbie question. This application or servo is for my Losi DB Pro buggy. I replaced the stock Spektrum servo with a DS3230 30KG. The DS models I have used in all my Arrma rig and no issues.

The issue I have here is that the DS3230 is too tall! well over 40+ mm in height. Being so high the arm to the servo horn to the bell housing just too tall and need a lot of nylon washers to make it work to my comfort.

I looked at these two servos that are at 40mm or lower in height and close to the stock so the arm will be correct...making the swap easy.

Savox 1258TG that comes with a glitch buster I do not know what that is:
https://www.amazon.com/1258TG-GLITC...d=1&keywords=Savox+1258&qid=1617478051&sr=8-9


Savox SB 2271SG - Others with the Losi got this one could be overkill but fits in just right no issues
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OKVQV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What is a glitch buster?
Do I need to use or install the glitch buster with this Losi?
What are your thoughts?

@E-fanatic
A glitch buster is a capacitor that you hook up so that when your servo is really taxed it has plenty of extra power it can pull from the capacitor instead of it causing a brown out which causes the servos to "glitch". I personally just run BECs on all my kits to prevent that from ever being an issue. As to whether or not you should run one Ill just say that if you dont notice any twitchiness in your servo then no need. If you do then you can hook it up and it should help.

Just my .02 worth on servos. The 1258TG has the same torque and more speed than the stock servo but its still pretty low torque if you ask me. Not saying it wont work, jsut saying theres better options out there imho.

If you're gonna run HV servo then the 2271SG that you listed would be a good choice but the SV1272SG is jsut as good and $10 cheaper.

If you're not going to run HV servos then I would look at the SA1283SG is also a great choice.
 

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