New Losi tenacity DB pro

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Like many of us I have been in the hunt for the rear mud guards from DE Racing. I finally called DE Racing and he confirmed the part was discontinued because SCT racing had fallen off. I explained that the Tenacity line used the same parts. He said he would look into producing the part again after researching it a little more. I might help if a few of us call to inquire.

DE Racing - (760) 505-1956 Part number DER-110-10

Hope this helps.
 
Ordered some 3.0 arms . The tires rub when fully turned on the stock arms with the 15° hubs. The 3.0 arms were redesigned because of this issue

Hoping the new update for the dx5c will be out shortly. Apparently there is an incompatibility with the smart radio and smart esc. Was told it will be out any day now.
does the 15 degree carrier add caster or take it away? just trying to understand how it gives it more steering.
 
from what i understand the15 degree carrier is more negative caster so that would be less steering not more. if anything the db and the tt need more steering.
 
If I want to install the Savox 2271 servo later on my DB along with a Spectrum voltage protector, where does the voltage protector plug into? It looks like it is recommended to use the protector with the Savox unit. I have a Spectrum stock receiver with plenty of aux plug ins left but I don't know where it would plug in at. Thanks ahead for any advice or help.
 
If I want to install the Savox 2271 servo later on my DB along with a Spectrum voltage protector, where does the voltage protector plug into? It looks like it is recommended to use the protector with the Savox unit. I have a Spectrum stock receiver with plenty of aux plug ins left but I don't know where it would plug in at. Thanks ahead for any advice or help.
it doesn't matter what port as long as its plugged on the + and - . but just use your batt port at the top to save your aux ports for other things.
 
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Thanks for the help, I've got one of those Arrma fans and heat sinks plugged into the batt port but I'll move it down lower and save the top for the voltage protector later on. I've still got a lot to learn about all this electronic stuff. I enjoyed this hobby with my oldest son over 25 years ago. Quite a bit has changed since then
 
you can leave it on the batt port, all of the + and - are on the same bus. not sure why they call it a voltage protector i guess they have to have a fancy name for it. its just a stiffening capacitor.

i know what you mean about alot has changed, I've been in the rc hobby (cars and planes) on and off for over 30 years. my first rc was a tamiya blackfoot with a wire wound mechanical speed control in the 80s. i think it only had 3 speeds.
 
you can leave it on the batt port, all of the + and - are on the same bus. not sure why they call it a voltage protector i guess they have to have a fancy name for it. its just a stiffening capacitor.

i know what you mean about alot has changed, I've been in the rc hobby (cars and planes) on and off for over 30 years. my first rc was a tamiya blackfoot with a wire wound mechanical speed control in the 80s. i think it only had 3 speeds.
That's what it's called on the Savox web site....a capacitor. I think it does have something to do with altering the voltage. I have been considering upgrading the turn signal bulbs to LED's on my Tacoma truck. The manufacturer recommends patching in a resistor to "fool" the electrical circuits in the truck to prevent "hyper flashing" of the signal bulb. Somehow that situation exists when a regular bulb is about to burn out. I guess glitching could be similar to hyper flashing. Again, I've got a lot to learn about big and little trucks and electronics.
 
That's what it's called on the Savox web site....a capacitor. I think it does have something to do with altering the voltage. I have been considering upgrading the turn signal bulbs to LED's on my Tacoma truck. The manufacturer recommends patching in a resistor to "fool" the electrical circuits in the truck to prevent "hyper flashing" of the signal bulb. Somehow that situation exists when a regular bulb is about to burn out. I guess glitching could be similar to hyper flashing. Again, I've got a lot to learn about big and little trucks and electronics.
glitching is when the voltage on the electronic speed controls bec drops below the receivers required operating voltage and turns off for a second. I've had this happen on one of my planes that has a cheap esc and gyro on and luckily it came back on before it crashed. i put a cap on it and solved the problem. a cap just helps keep the voltage up when there is a surge of current draw. i havent had this happen on my cars or helis. but I've never run savox or high amp, high torque, super speed servos.
 
glitching is when the voltage on the electronic speed controls bec drops below the receivers required operating voltage and turns off for a second. I've had this happen on one of my planes that has a cheap esc and gyro on and luckily it came back on before it crashed. i put a cap on it and solved the problem. a cap just helps keep the voltage up when there is a surge of current draw. i havent had this happen on my cars or helis. but I've never run savox or high amp, high torque, super speed servos.
That does sound similar to what occurs in the hyper flashing situation with the LED bulb requiring less energy than a conventional bulb. Those little electronic "helpers" alter the processes and prevent problems I suppose. I haven't run anything but the stock servo yet and will probably wait until it starts underperforming before I change anything. I don't want to get in over my head.....this is just a hobby for my wife and myself to enjoy in our retirement days
 
retirement thats awesome. i hope to make it to retirement one day. i enjoy the hobby along with my grandson and friends. we have a home race track i built that we run on. truth be told i probably enjoy it more than he does...lol.
 
retirement thats awesome. i hope to make it to retirement one day. i enjoy the hobby along with my grandson and friends. we have a home race track i built that we run on. truth be told i probably enjoy it more than he does...lol.
It is awesome to always know we don't have to get up the next day and go to work. We enjoy what we worked hard for all these years. My four grandsons are all too wrapped up in computers and video games to ever get interested in R/C. I feel lucky just to see them occasionally with all this Covid crap going on
 
that would be great not to have to get up and go everyday. getting up and just doing what you want to do would be awesome. my grandson is on youtube and games most of the time. i would of been so excited and grateful to have an rc track and an rc car at his age. kids have to much now a days to appreciate anything. yep I'm sick of the covid crap and sick of hearing about it too. its not as bad as they make it out to be. the media is a bunch of crap starters and fear mongers. i know some people has died but i know to many people that supposedly had it and got over it including me and my wife, my uncle had pheumonia with it, older couple from church that are in there mid 80s had it, and all have gotten over it. i know many more that got tested positive and got over it.
 
That's great news about you and your wife getting through the virus if I understand you correctly. We know of only one family of three that all got it and recovered. The dad had also just gotten through with radiation treatments for prostrate cancer so he was double fortunate. Not wanting to sound all political but we thank the man upstairs every day for keeping us safe. We are both former smokers (and old) so I feel we are vulnerable should we be exposed. Being extra careful has just become part of our routine but it's tough not getting to see our family. Be safe my friend and just let the kids be kids. They've grown up in different times than we all did so I've grown to accept that we appreciate a different world than they do. Forgive me for getting "off subject" and I appreciate talking with someone who thinks along the same lines as I do about the times we are going through these days with the media and covid. We respect what has happened but also realize a lot of it is overblown.
 
i thank the lord everyday for giving me another day along with my family and for putting up with my ignorance sometimes. we are definitely getting closer to the end of days and i want to be ready and right with the lord and to do his will not my own. my will will only get me in trouble. i understand being careful in your situation it could possibly be worse if you got sick. but i think if we keep our trust in god no matter what happens everything will be ok ether in this life and or the next one. regardless of what some believe or think there is a heaven and a hell.

god bless you and your family!
 
Hey guys. I've seen contradictory reports on this across the interwebs.... Do I need to buy a new servo horn to go with the Savox 1258 I just bought? Will the horns that come with the kit fit that servo or do I need to buy a new one.... If so which one? Cheers. Still waiting for the car itself to be delivered so no way to check.
 
the standard servo is 23T, the Savox will be 25t, so yeah, you need either a new horn or a different horn insert.

Myself I bought the TLR horn TLR1557 which is the wrong horn as it has imperial threads not metric.

To solve that problem I just gently screwed, then backed off, then screwed, a metric screw into the horn until it went all the way through. Probably not ideal but I like the shiny :p
 
the standard servo is 23T, the Savox will be 25t, so yeah, you need either a new horn or a different horn insert.

Myself I bought the TLR horn TLR1557 which is the wrong horn as it has imperial threads not metric.

To solve that problem I just gently screwed, then backed off, then screwed, a metric screw into the horn until it went all the way through. Probably not ideal but I like the shiny :p
Sounds risky. It’s funny, there are so many people running Savox yet no consensus on which horn to use.

I’ve seen two here (maybe there’s more I’ve missed): Tamiya Racing horn and Power HD horn.
 
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@E-fanatic and others

Fam...unless I am just making a newbie error...I cannot get the outdrives to work for the center diff, see pic below. No issues with the outdrive for the f/r.

Could my confusion be I am using the outdrives for the center diff that does not go to dogbones for tires?

When I install the outdrives below for the center:
  • When I put in the dogbone in from the front diff to the center diff it's a snug, tight fit. No back/forth movement. In addition, the dogbone is so tight since it is at an angle it cannot turn. This is because the upgraded outdrives are so long it touches the dogbone
  • For the rear diff to the center diff on the other side, the upgraded center outdrive is so long it does not allow any movement back to meet the screw holes on top to secure the center diff for all 4 tops screw holes

What am I doing wrong or do I have the wrong understanding for the center outdrive?

IMG_20210402_004654.jpg
 
@E-fanatic and others

Fam...unless I am just making a newbie error...I cannot get the outdrives to work for the center diff, see pic below. No issues with the outdrive for the f/r.

Could my confusion be I am using the outdrives for the center diff that does not go to dogbones for tires?

When I install the outdrives below for the center:
  • When I put in the dogbone in from the front diff to the center diff it's a snug, tight fit. No back/forth movement. In addition, the dogbone is so tight since it is at an angle it cannot turn. This is because the upgraded outdrives are so long it touches the dogbone
  • For the rear diff to the center diff on the other side, the upgraded center outdrive is so long it does not allow any movement back to meet the screw holes on top to secure the center diff for all 4 tops screw holes

What am I doing wrong or do I have the wrong understanding for the center outdrive?

View attachment 126254
the diffs are all the same on the db pro and the tt pro. the ones out of the pack on the bottom of your pic look like the right ones. the ones in the pack are not and that is the part number for the ones on the bottom. so you stapled the wrong label on that pack or someone else did. this is the link of the correct ones and its the ones i used https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-front-rear-hd-lightened-outdrive-set-2-losb3575/p204174
 

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