New Losi tenacity DB pro

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Okay, it appears to be normal my question above.
So now thats sorted, another attempt at asking something here :rolleyes:

I noticed this from the start and I assume its so normal on these kind of cars in the budget they are in, that nobody bothers to correct this or make it perfect?

Talking about the play you have at the wheels, especially the fronts, where the hex meets the outer cup in the hubs:
 
Okay, it appears to be normal my question above.
So now thats sorted, another attempt at asking something here :rolleyes:

I noticed this from the start and I assume its so normal on these kind of cars in the budget they are in, that nobody bothers to correct this or make it perfect?

Talking about the play you have at the wheels, especially the fronts, where the hex meets the outer cup in the hubs:

Yea, it is normal. You could try the clamping wheel hex's (LOSB3493). I have these on front and back and it's nice that they don't just fall off like the stock.

Compared to my AE T6.2, there's way more slop through out the suspension/steering in the DB Pro. Even with the Exotek steering set and aluminum hubs/spindles/carriers. I'm not sure how it would compare to a higher end 1/8th scale 4 wheel drive buggy kit though. Maybe everything is looser with a larger scale vehicle. Most of it seems to be in the rod ends and links.
 
Indeed, true, even with the Exotek kit there is a tiny amount of slop still.

Mainly comong from in the right 'pole'' the exotek body turns nicely, but still with slop on that pole.
can't remember, but all bearings were swapped with exotek ones I think, so even with their bearings there's slop, pitty.

Thx for the tip, gonna look into that part number.

Funny you said that because last week I raced with 2 Tekno buggies.
One of them having experience in competition.
The kit looked pro, as expected.
1/8 scale.
But at that moment, didnt check drive cup play :)

Next time...
 
Managed to secure the Traxxas receiver box with some Sugru, will have to wait and see if and how long that will hold, but now its dry, the box is firm and secure in place.

20220810_184235.jpg

20220810_184051.jpg

20220810_184025.jpg

20220810_184014.jpg


Also, I was riding with toe-in all this time lol, now I managed to set up the buggy as it should: -2° camber all around, and 2° toe-out for the front (2° toe-in at the rear is fixed that way it seems) using an app and my smartphone as tool.
20220809_180509.jpg


Had some xtreme rake as well, just liked the look of it, and now its kinda neutral, maybe with a slight rake angle.
Also adjusted the front springs to 10mm, before I had them at 5 or 6 mm (distance between the bottom of the cap and the top of the spring), I wanted the front to be a bit firmer.



can't wait to see what the new adjustments will do about handling and tomorrow I'll upload those last riding vids with the Tekno's...
 
Last edited:
Okay, here's the damage from yesterdays racing, not bashing! 😊

15° toe-in on the left rear LOL, hard crash indeed
20220815_173304.jpg


look at that bend screw if you look closely and how the whole arm is moved and bend forward
20220815_184145.jpg

20220815_184152.jpg


and look at that bend metal pin retainer..
20220815_184205.jpg

20220815_190119.jpg

20220815_190134.jpg

bend screw fiddlesticked up the rear gear housing completely
20220815_190032.jpg

20220815_190038.jpg

20220815_190048.jpg

....on both sides....
20220815_190058.jpg

And these are the issues I just discovered today:
20220816_123003.jpg


- bent left front drive shaft

- loose pinion gear

- shot front diff case too, at the top: one screw was lost because the entire thread has gone and the other one is just sitting there 🤨
Its the connection point between the top of the front diff housing and the top brace....so now its lost a strong mounting point there.

- a mounting hole of the ESC got a crack - this bothers me the most because you can't fix this completely without swapping out a whole new ESC 😒
But I will use the magic Sugru again like I did to hold my Traxxas receiver box in place, wich held up perfectly ☺️
Gonna use it to fill up the gap between the ESC and the chassis and I will use it as reinforcement around the cracked mounting point so it doesn't crack any further.

Maybe its me, but the plastics aren't worth poop, or plastics in general.
But than again, the difficulty of the track and me not holding back certainly have something to do with it...
I think chassis slap is the main responsible for the cracked ESC mount, all others is just due to hard crashes 🤐

There were 2 other guys and they also were send back with rc parts bills :p

I have already ordered the diff housings, a kit of 3 (fr, center, r) for only 17 euro or something.
A pair fr & r metal pin retainers, than I'll have a spare pair for the front, those come in at 12 euro's
And some screws, only the shaftdrive I still have to order, but they only come in pair, and are 40 euro's


I am almost certain the diff cases will get ripped again and than I will order these nice looking CNC Alu ones from Vitavon (only front and rear)
s-l1600 (1).jpg

s-l1600 (2).jpg

s-l1600 (3).jpg

s-l1600.jpg


INDESTRUCTIBLE!



Just a general question, is it normal for a pinion to come loose even after you applied loctite?
I assume the heat has made the loctite go soft after a couple of runs in this heat.
So thats something you gotta inspect from time to time than?
 
Hi! Love my Tenacity. Have a couple of questions. Why the Traxxas receiver box? And has anyone swapped out the Spektrum motor for something different and what kind of motor? Thanks!
 
Strange question, because that box covers everything up instead of letting the whole receiver sit in the open air where its available to dirt, water etc, kinda obvious? 🤷‍♂️

There is even a closed Losi box, but forgot the part n°

Youtube and here is full of these cars with other motors...
Just google or research, the options are vast.
 
Strange question, because that box covers everything up instead of letting the whole receiver sit in the open air where its available to dirt, water etc, kinda obvious? 🤷‍♂️

There is even a closed Losi box, but forgot the part n°

Youtube and here is full of these cars with other motors...
Just google or research, the options are vast.
Well, thanks for the warm welcome. Didn't think it that strange. Just was curious why a Traxxas box compared to a Losi. Was there a benefit? And yes I know there are plenty of Youtube videos. I was hoping there were people here trying other motors and what worked for them.. It's called conversation..
 
Well, thanks for the warm welcome. Didn't think it that strange. Just was curious why a Traxxas box compared to a Losi. Was there a benefit? And yes I know there are plenty of Youtube videos. I was hoping there were people here trying other motors and what worked for them.. It's called conversation..
I don't have a Tenacity, but very cool cars. I would take a look at Tekin or Castle motors and see what's similar to what you currently have. Same KV/can size/etc. A lot of them have info that tell you what the motor was designed for. Post up a thread, and you will likely get lots of help.
 
Well, thanks for the warm welcome. Didn't think it that strange. Just was curious why a Traxxas box compared to a Losi. Was there a benefit? And yes I know there are plenty of Youtube videos. I was hoping there were people here trying other motors and what worked for them.. It's called conversation..
I wasn't aware of the Losi box, so I got the idea from a youtuber that used a traxxas box.

Had I knew, i would get the losi box, but the Trx one works fine, after some trimming.
It all fits, but its very tight in there, 4 channels used in total.
 
Last edited:
can somebody confirm if the front shock tower sits at an angle backwards?
View attachment 150294

I believe thats normal as the body posts wouldnt fit and the front bulkhead looks fine too, as does the chassis, nothing abnormal.

but just one some confirmation lol

thx!
Yup, looks good. I have a tt and db .
My biggest problem is with the heavily wearing drive shafts throughout.
I would love some input on drive train improvements.
 
Yup, looks good. I have a tt and db .
My biggest problem is with the heavily wearing drive shafts throughout.
I would love some input on drive train improvements.
For me, with the hard demanding track that destroys these things, I can say: either rack up diff cases or invest in aluminum ones, from Vitavon.
And/or upgrade to these Tekno drive pieces, I also bend one shaft. (3s)
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr2210x-m6-driveshafts-and-lightened-outdrives-frontrear-scte/
I think that combo, will make the driving experience that more reliable on a level its nearly indestructible, (but I will only know when driving that combo 🤣)

But first things first, get a better & stronger servo than stock and preferably upgrade the steering set, I upgraded to Exotek.

I dont know if this is neccessary, but I'm sure it helped me out with all my fails and crashed, but I also got alu upgrades all round: fr & r chassi braces, all drive hubs fr & r.
All Losi, but Vitvavon also has upgrades.

My next performance upgrade would also be a set of better tires, the dirt track I ride, it clearly struggles for grip on the dirt parts.
 
And after some cleaning I saw another broken part, this time a broken wing support, it never ends it seems 🤷‍♂️😋
20220818_131147.jpg

I'm also looking into a conversion kit to open up wheel options for 17mm hex.
But what adapters do you guys use?

The M2C is crazy expensive.
And i am not sure if this Traxxas one would even work: TRX6856X
Thats supposedly for 12mm to 17 mm...

Here they show it on a Slash with a 12mm wheel hex like ours:
This is a China copy on a Slash

They work about the same, no retainer pin, but a bolt that bolts onto the existing 12mm thread

The dimension of the China one:
https://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Adapter-Extension-Conversion-Upgrade/dp/B07KKKFYKK/ref=sr_1_4
Lenght is 19.3mm, detract 4mm (the width of the head I assume) and than you'll have about 15mm left, wich is about the length of the outdrive sticking out...

So I assume the TRX kit works similar.

When my spares finally are available for pick up at the store, I will buy this kit there as well and test it out, will keep you guys updated..
 
meet the track that caused my DB Pro to fall apart, in POV flying over the track following the cars 😎
(other neat vids of the track on that channel)

Enjoy!
Holey crap! What a awesome track.
For me, with the hard demanding track that destroys these things, I can say: either rack up diff cases or invest in aluminum ones, from Vitavon.
And/or upgrade to these Tekno drive pieces, I also bend one shaft. (3s)
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr2210x-m6-driveshafts-and-lightened-outdrives-frontrear-scte/
I think that combo, will make the driving experience that more reliable on a level its nearly indestructible, (but I will only know when driving that combo 🤣)

But first things first, get a better & stronger servo than stock and preferably upgrade the steering set, I upgraded to Exotek.

I dont know if this is neccessary, but I'm sure it helped me out with all my fails and crashed, but I also got alu upgrades all round: fr & r chassi braces, all drive hubs fr & r.
All Losi, but Vitvavon also has upgrades.

My next performance upgrade would also be a set of better tires, the dirt track I ride, it clearly struggles for grip on the dirt parts.
Ok ,one set of Tekno axles in and another on the way.
For me, with the hard demanding track that destroys these things, I can say: either rack up diff cases or invest in aluminum ones, from Vitavon.
And/or upgrade to these Tekno drive pieces, I also bend one shaft. (3s)
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr2210x-m6-driveshafts-and-lightened-outdrives-frontrear-scte/
I think that combo, will make the driving experience that more reliable on a level its nearly indestructible, (but I will only know when driving that combo 🤣)

But first things first, get a better & stronger servo than stock and preferably upgrade the steering set, I upgraded to Exotek.

I dont know if this is neccessary, but I'm sure it helped me out with all my fails and crashed, but I also got alu upgrades all round: fr & r chassi braces, all drive hubs fr & r.
All Losi, but Vitvavon also has upgrades.

My next performance upgrade would also be a set of better tires, the dirt track I ride, it clearly struggles for grip on the dirt parts.
Oh yeah, I also installed Exotek steering.
 
Last edited:
UPDATE

So, as mentioned I'm gonna try these new 17" wheels. (Louise B-Grooves, they must be identical to a Duratrax model, but I dunno the Duratrax branded name)
20220826_012701.jpg

Tomorrow or tonight I'll find out if that Traxxas conversion kit will fit our buggies....🤞

And finally got the rest of the spares, many screws, the stock pin retainers and the diff cases.
20220826_012639.jpg

I actually ordered these from a German website that had everything in stock, after I ordered them in a local shop that didnt...and the day after I made the order in Germany, I got notified I could pick up my order in my local shop :rolleyes:🤣
But hey, I think you can't have enough screws and diff cases for this kit when you rid as hard as I seem to do, now I got many spares 🤐

And also ordered some nice nets form GPM, diggthis look 😎
Its not mine, its from the facebook group of our buggies....
netting.jpg


One final thing, Dusty Covers, the Large one part number DMC1014 would fit, and it looks clean when installed as well (again, not mine, just reference)
dusty.jpg


But still have some work to do ahead before I order that ánd I spoiled myself with a classic build kit from Kyosho 🙌🤟
20220826_012859.jpg
 
Last edited:
Bought some tools and picked up the second round of the same spares today lol.
So today I can replace the diff cases.

Whats good news is the Traxxas conversion kit 6856X works perfectly with this buggy.
Track has even been increased by 8mm at each side...
20220827_111018.jpg

20220827_111032.jpg


while I'm at it, I checked the front bearings, DIRTY!
So they've been cleaned
20220827_101315.jpg

20220827_095913.jpg
 
Bought some tools and picked up the second round of the same spares today lol.
So today I can replace the diff cases.

Whats good news is the Traxxas conversion kit 6856X works perfectly with this buggy.
Track has even been increased by 8mm at each side...
View attachment 151291
View attachment 151292

while I'm at it, I checked the front bearings, DIRTY!
So they've been cleaned
View attachment 151294
View attachment 151293
Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to post and stay in touch.
Your input has greatly helped my son and me.
Thanks again. 😊
 
no prob @Dave Fowler


Another question, I am rebuilding my diff cases, and one of them already has issues, luckely I had ordered 2 kits from different stores.
Because the inside bearing size in the diff case for the pinion gear has changed!!!
Losi updated them?
Pictures will follow....

Last question.
And when updating to tekno outdrive cups, they dont seem to add the grub screws that keep the cups in place??
huh.PNG

Because I think I stripped a grub screw, but if I wanted to upgrade to a Tekno kit, I have to buy the whole losi kit for that grub screw????
🤔

that doesn't seem right!?
huh2.PNG
 

Similar threads

Back
Top