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look!!! what i just scored!!

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beason

Bash, Fix, Repeat..
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Webster, TX
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  1. Bashing
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for 15$!!!!! its basicaly brand new. he said he bought it and never used it. its the rotofly heli and comes with all the stuff (charger, batterys radio, etc)

SO, i will have TONS of questions very soon!! i pick it up today after work!!!

so heli guys, start posting up the advice, do's and dont's and all that good stuff!!!
 
Nice! That is one heck of a deal at only $15 bucks. I would like to learn to fly a heli. I can barely hover in the simulator.

Tom
 
- Buy training gear/wheels for it.
- Buy spare rotors for it.
- Make certain everything is squared up the way it is supposed to be...as in the main rotor (which is folded at the moment) is nice and straight when you deploy the main rotor blades.
- Make certain everything that is supposed to be tight is tight and everything that is supposed to be loose is loose (no binding on moving parts).
- Charge eveything that needs to be charged.
- If they make flat bottom or planar rotors for the main rotor, pick some up. They are easier to learn to fly with than the symmetrical ones.

Last but not least (for now anyways)...

DON"T RUSH! Take plenty of time to familiarize yourself with the controls and take your time to learn the basics. Otherwise, you might find that your $15 helicopter ends up costing you a ton more than planned for in repairs as you total it.

I am still learning on mine. I have flown it at least twice sometimes thrice a day since I bought mine, and am just now getting the hover down. You'd be surprised at how difficult these things are to fly...I am told the bigger the easier...so if you can learn to fly the little helicopter, buying and flying the bigger ones will be easier.

Good luck with it...and post some pics when you get her in the air.
 
- Buy training gear/wheels for it.
- Buy spare rotors for it.
- Make certain everything is squared up the way it is supposed to be...as in the main rotor (which is folded at the moment) is nice and straight when you deploy the main rotor blades.
- Make certain everything that is supposed to be tight is tight and everything that is supposed to be loose is loose (no binding on moving parts).
- Charge eveything that needs to be charged.
- If they make flat bottom or planar rotors for the main rotor, pick some up. They are easier to learn to fly with than the symmetrical ones.

Last but not least (for now anyways)...

DON"T RUSH! Take plenty of time to familiarize yourself with the controls and take your time to learn the basics. Otherwise, you might find that your $15 helicopter ends up costing you a ton more than planned for in repairs as you total it.

I am still learning on mine. I have flown it at least twice sometimes thrice a day since I bought mine, and am just now getting the hover down. You'd be surprised at how difficult these things are to fly...I am told the bigger the easier...so if you can learn to fly the little helicopter, buying and flying the bigger ones will be easier.

Good luck with it...and post some pics when you get her in the air.


oh i plan on taking it very slow, how long do these take to charge?

the ones listed on tower come with the training gear, but i dont know if this one does.

link to the blades?

i plan on starting indoors, just hovering and such.

and getting pics in the air will make for an interesting time! lol
 
Starting indoors is a no-no, unless you have access to a 20x20 space.

You'll find the hardest part is learning the hover "jiggle" on the right cyclic stick. It's basically a figure-8. Couple that with the tail wanting to come around on its' own (you will have to hold the left stick to the left or right, just enough to counter the rotation), and you'll have your hands full.

I started with a Venom Nightranger 2, which is a fixed-pitch heli. It was a pain to get it to fly right, but the key is to get the rotor head balanced. It's a lot easier to do than it sounds. Just get the main rotor blades aligned and tightened down according to the manual, and you'll be alright. You'll be amazed how tough these things are.

Just read through the manual, read it twice, and read it a third time, paying special attention to the section on balancing the rotor head, and adjusting the tracking. You will be amazed how much difference a half turn on the tracking adjusters makes.
 
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well here she is, at home.

everything looks brand new, and seems its all there!

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It looks like you have a nice bird there. The training wheels are a huge thing ... they were recommended to me when I got my bird and re-recommended by others here at RCNT. I pass that recommendation on to you....do not rush to take them off. They will provide a bit more stability and landing surface.

I looked around for parts for your heli. Looks like Tower Hobbies has a great deal of support. I did not see any planar rotor blades, so they may not make any for your heli. Then again, your heli is a micro-heli and it may not make much difference.

At any rate, try Tower for parts or check with your LHS on the Helimax Rotofly. Note, there is a larger version of your bird called the Rotofly EX, and I do not think there is parts compatibility between the two. SO shop carefully.

Good luck with it and enjoy the learning experience.
 
Good deal, good luck. Keep in touch with SkyMaxx since he's in 'training' right now.
Wait till a no wind day, and take it to a wide open area, grass preferred since you're new. Don't rush, it takes some getting used to.
If you have access to a simulator, I strongly suggest you start getting used to the hover, before you damage the real thing. Pick a light weight electric that will behave much like yours will.
 
ok, i got my first few questions. I would be great if someone with this heli would pop up so i could ask model specific questions...

first off, i see the rotofly ex (350mm) for 159.00, but all the reviews for this heli (300mm) shows it listed over $250. did i get a $250 heli for 20$??!!

ok on to the real questions. first off the blades, they need to be tight right? is there a way to make sure there strait? or just eyeball it?

the paddles, they are moveable, do they need to be flat? angled? again eyeball it?

how the heck to you get the canopy to stay on?? does the rubber groments slide over the bar in there?

i see heatsinks for the motors, will i need to rebalance anything if i add these?

i havent attempted anything yet, i need to get batts for the TX.

there are ALOT of dohickys on the TX can anyone give me a crash course on what they do? how to set them? etc...

i am completly new to anything that flyes (well for more then about 60ft...)

HELP!!! lol
 
Looking at your pictures and those for the EX, it looks like you have the EX...but you said the rotor diameter is 300mm and the EX has 350mm. Either way, you have a great deal there. But you had better determine which version you have so you get the right parts.

As for your questions:
1. When you straighten the blades out, you want them to be tight...a real snug tight...not destructive tight...if you know what I mean. If the fold back on impact with something...that is not a bad thing...but they should not fold back in flight.
2. The paddles need to be flat to the plane of the holder they pass through (not sure of the proper name). On the rotor hub, the frame that that paddles pass through...the paddles should be flat to that plane. Note, you can adjust their angle to change the characteristics of flight, but I do not recommend doing so until you have the basics covered. Heck, I am still learning them...and thus my advice is that of others and my limited experience.
3. The canopy should stay on by the rubber grommets attached to a spar on the frame of the heli.
4. You shouldn't need to worry about rebalancing with the heat sinks. The thing was designed with them in mind. So go ahead and use them.
5. The transmitter. The four switches in the center near the bottom. Those are servo reversing switches. Do not play with them unless you want stuff backwards. The left toggle swith should control the main rotor and tail rotor (if it is set up like my own). The left toggle in the vertical plane will add throttle and thus create lift. When it is moved in the horizontal plane, it controls the tail rotor...by either increasing or decreasing its movement. This one stick controls the up and down of the heli and the yaw of the heli (as in its rotation about the vertical axis). The right stick controls the forward and side-to-side movement of the heli. It does this by adjusting the plane of the main rotor. When pushed up, you should see the main rotor tilt toward the front of the heli. When pushed to either side, you should see the main rotor tilt in that direction. When pushed down, you should see the rotor tilt toward the tail of the heli.
The little switches beside the two sticks are the trim, switches for the respective stick and direction.

These things being as small as they are do not require massive stick inputs. A little twitch is about all it takes to send these things flying out of control...for us novices.

If the thing came with a manual, read it...then read it again, then re-read it....Here is a PDF version

I hope this gets you started in the right direction. Be prepared to replace rotors regularly. Once the get dinged up the heli gets harder to fly as the rotors get out of balance.

Have fun.
 
Almost forgot...it is best if there is darn close to no wind. Even a light breeze can mess with these little buggers and ruin your day.
 
the reason i think its the 300mm is i looked them up and the ex comes with heatsinks already installed, and has an aluminum case.

this link has me confused

http://www.helihobby.com/html/helimax_rotofly_heicopter.html

mine looks like the red one, no heatsinks and no case... i guess i need to measure the rotor huh...

so on the trims, start all neutral?

i am assuming i should do a slow spin up to make sure all is balanced and spinning flat.
 
I thought the same about the EX versus what you have. I guess the measurement will tell the truth for you...as for the heat sinks. If they are like my own, they simply clip on and off...not really a major install. As for the missing case if yours is an EX, perhaps that is why you got such a good deal. :D

Yes on the trim, but you may find you add a click or two to the right on the tail rotor to help keep it from needing an input on spin up.

And yes, on the slow spin up. My recommendation will be to take things slow in all respects until you get a feel for the controls and your heli.

Not to spook you or anything...but I have been taking it slow...and have burned through at least seven sets of main rotors and three tail rotors. Granted my main rotors are wooden and get destroyed pretty easily...but they are a cheap replacement compared to replacing the entire heli. Which is why you are lucky...$15
 
it came in a regular rotofly box.. maybe its an older one, sans heatsinks..

i need to get bats for the TX and maybe ill attempt a spin up this evening... if i can get a controled inch off the ground ill be happy!!
 
The rotor blades should NOT be really tight in the hub. They should be snug enough to stay straight, but you should be able to move them fairly easily by hand. They are meant to fold up to help prevent major damage to the mechanicals.
Centrifugal force at start up will straighten them out. If you have them too tight, the heli will have too much vibration, since they are unable to sling out completely.
 
mine are really loose right now, if i tilt the heli, they fold up. so i need to snug them a bit?? the paddles, they dont auto straiten out like the blades, so i need to get them parallel to the ground?
 
Right, the blades need to be snugged a bit. They should NEVER be so loose that they flop around. The paddles need to be set up before flight. They are critical to the control of the heli'
 
That would be my recommendation.

The rotor blades should NOT be really tight in the hub. They should be snug enough to stay straight, but you should be able to move them fairly easily by hand. They are meant to fold up to help prevent major damage to the mechanicals.
Centrifugal force at start up will straighten them out. If you have them too tight, the heli will have too much vibration, since they are unable to sling out completely.

I guess my statement was not clear enough. :D
 
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