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LiPo Comparison Thread (LiPo and NiMH AAs)

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What pointers can you give us to maintain our cell phone batteries? I don't usually have too many issues, but it never hurts to take care of better.
To keep it short, always keep your batts between 25-80%. Keep battery temps low. Never charge wireless always use the cord, the heat generated from wireless charging kills the batts' longevity.

Android - buy the Accu Battery app and set it to loudly notify you when you reach 80% charge level when charging. It does a very accurate estimation of lifetime battery life / capacity.

Apple - when charging, place in low power. When charge reaches 80%, low power mode is turned off and a visual notification becomes available. Also, the Battery Life app will help you manage charging with connected devices like Apple Watch & speakers (I have a Bluetooth Polycom conference device that's years old because I manage the charging the same way.) Due to Apple restrictions, it's not quite as powerful as the Accu Battery app on Android.
 
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To keep it short, always keep your batts between 25-80%. Keep battery temps low. Never charge wireless always use the cord, the heat generated from wireless charging kills the batts' longevity.

Android - buy the Accu Battery app and set it to loudly notify you when you reach 80% charge level when charging. It does a very accurate estimation of lifetime battery life / capacity.

Apple - when charging, place in low power. When charge reaches 80%, low power mode is turned off and a visual notification becomes available. Also, the Battery Life app will help you manage charging with connected devices like Apple Watch & speakers (I have a Bluetooth Polycom conference device that's years old because I manage the charging the same way.) Due to Apple restrictions, it's not quite as powerful as the Accu Battery app on Android.
Good to know, Thanks for sharing.
 
Next two LiPos are done. (UPDATED SPREADSHEETS) This time I tested a second CNHL Racing Li-HV 6000mAh 120C and a Liperior Endurance No Prep 8000mAh 200C LiPo.

CNHL Li-HV 6000mAh 120C #2.webp


Liperior Endurance No-Prep 8000mAh 200C.webp
Liperior Endurance No-Prep 8000mAh 200C 3.webp
Liperior Endurance No-Prep 8000mAh 200C 2.webp


So the big takeaway here is the first CNHL Racing Li-HV pack I tested was not a fluke. This one sucked almost as bad with unbelievably high IRs right out of the box and not delivering anywhere near the promised, 6000mAh (averaged 5136mAh). Voltage Under Load came in under the halfway point, so overall a complete garbage battery.

Now, this Liperior Endurance No-Prep pack is surprisingly good. It has taken the new number 1 spot on the list, even among the other no-prep packs. I'm sure that's due to the fact that this ginormous no-prep pack weighs in at a hefty, 8000mAh and actually delivers it too (Averaged 7980mAh), not to mention the beefy 7AWG wire leads! Hope you have some 8mm connectors, and a hefty soldering iron for these wires! It's nowhere near its advertised 200C but did come in with a true C rating of 31 which makes it tied for 3rd place overall in terms of true C rating. Voltage under load came in at 7.43V, which makes this guy the new king of the hill in terms of performance. I find it funny that all the other Liperior Endurance LiPos are total junk, except for their no-prep packs. Makes me feel like they should have branded it under a different line, but it is what it is. Buy regular Liperior or Liperior pro for regular LiPos, and buy the Liperior Endurance for No-prep. Avoid the rest of the endurance line up.

BTW, They have higher mAh no-prep packs. 8000mAh was the smallest. I'm sure the higher mAh packs will outperform even this one. Just FYI :)

Hope this helps. Let me know if you guys have any questions.
 
Been rocking CNHL 5200s for the past 2 years with great success and results. Using in 4wd 13.5 and 2wd 17.5. Been looking into their newer 130C line of race packs, specifically the 6400s for 4wd Bug.

I also have a old 6100mah V3 Maclan pack from a old race buddy, who knows how old it is, a bit puffy but I still run it for a practice battery or when I'm at the track whom runs longer mains.

SMC is also pretty good. Have yet to test out their new packs as they just got back into the shorty/hardcase/racing section.

If ProMatch racing were still around those were pretty good too per my uncles experiences

I was surprised on the results with the 2s stick pack CNHL test Grey just did. Sometimes duds can happen out of the box. Usually from what I seen CNHL support gets you right on track with a new battery.
 
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I was just looking at CNHL sale.
I can find the race hard pack 2s but not in the G+line.
Liperior hard pack are Endurance line (junk).
Any thoughts on a good 2s shorty hard pack for the track?
That has to be a hard pack? I'm afraid I don't have much recommendation for shorties as I've only done one or two of them, except for the no-prep packs, but the no-prep packs aren't hard case and may be too big and heavy for what you're wanting anyway. I should test more shorty packs.
 
I was surprised on the results with the 2s stick pack CNHL test Grey just did.
I was surprised the first time too, that's why I did a second one, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke.
 
That has to be a hard pack? I'm afraid I don't have much recommendation for shorties as I've only done one or two of them, except for the no-prep packs, but the no-prep packs aren't hard case and may be too big and heavy for what you're wanting anyway. I should test more shorty packs.
Yes, hard packs required at my local track.
I was warned about it so I think they do check. ( I still haven't raced there yet. )
If you could test hard packs some time, that would be helpful! There are a lot of big name racers using big name batteries with BIG prices! 🤣
It would be great to sift thru some of the piles to get an idea between good batteries vs expensive names.
A variable added here might be weight/mah for racing vs bashing packs.
I was surprised the first time too, that's why I did a second one, just to make sure it wasn't a fluke.
I'm glad you tested again.
Batteries are getting nearer the top of the shopping list now.
Those CNHL bats were looking good for the $. 🤷‍♀️
 
Yes, hard packs required at my local track.
I was warned about it so I think they do check. ( I still haven't raced there yet. )
If you could test hard packs some time, that would be helpful! There are a lot of big name racers using big name batteries with BIG prices! 🤣
It would be great to sift thru some of the piles to get an idea between good batteries vs expensive names.
A variable added here might be weight/mah for racing vs bashing packs.

I'm glad you tested again.
Batteries are getting nearer the top of the shopping list now.
Those CNHL bats were looking good for the $. 🤷‍♀️
If you, or anyone else, has any suggestions for which ones to test, I'm all ears. I dont use shorty packs so I'm not even sure who makes em.

Also, the time I have to test batteries is at an all-time low right now so it may be some months before I get time to really start messing with it again.
 
I'll continue looking.
An example of what I mean is Cayote. Their esc's look amazing so battery should expect similar specs/results.
Tekin offers 1s 7.4v LCG and 2s 7.6HV shorty's. Not entirely sure why. 🤣

This is great!
No major time crunch. Indoor race season is windng down here anyways. 😎
 
Were all the packs tested, 2S1P cell configuration?
The vast majority are, except for the no-prep lipos and maybe a one off here or there. No specific consideration has been given to cell count/configuration in these tests though.
 
Seems like they were by the photos. Guessing 2s2p is better? Bc all of my current CNHL packs are 2s2p and they've been all great for me. Cells balanced, low IRs. Great punch and run time.
There was some debate on IR being better with 2P cell configuration packs. I just can't wrap my head around how we are supposed to always balance cells for healthy/safe use of LiPo batteries, and then the 2P packs have all the extra cells that can't be "read" individually.
1746183828897.webp

4S2P vs 4S1P.webp

I just gave up trying to over think 2P configuration packs and caved in to buying them. My first 2S2P pack (2019) was a Zeee shorty and I still use it in my ET410 mini truggy.
1746184298745.webp
 
There was some debate on IR being better with 2P cell configuration packs. I just can't wrap my head around how we are supposed to always balance cells for healthy/safe use of LiPo batteries, and then the 2P packs have all the extra cells that can't be "read" individually.
View attachment 233450
View attachment 233449
I just gave up trying to over think 2P configuration packs and caved in to buying them. My first 2S2P pack (2019) was a Zeee shorty and I still use it in my ET410 mini truggy.
View attachment 233451
That is my concern as well with 2P packs. I don't think long term as the cells age they would be as safe as a 1P pack. I have a couple, and they are the only batteries I won't charge if I'm not sitting in the hobby room with them. I know my fear is probably a bit overboard, but I really hate not being able to know the health of the individual cells.

LiPo manufacturers need to install jumpers and separate connector ports in their batteries to test the individual cells when they build 2P packs.
 
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That is my concern as well with 2P packs. I don't think long term as the cells age they would be as safe as a 1P pack. I have a couple, and they are the only batteries I won't charge if I'm not sitting in the hobby room with them. I know my fear is probably a bit overboard, but I really hate not being able to know the health of the individual cells.

LiPo manufacturers need to install jumpers and separate connector ports in their batteries to test the individual cells when they build 2P packs.
Oh, boy. More tiny wires. :banana: 🤪
 
Oh, boy. More tiny wires. :banana: 🤪
Just needs a built in male balance connector port for proper nalance charging and a jumper board on it. Nothing external. I think that would work.
 
Hi guys new on this site! Getting ready to retire a couple of packs that have high IRs due to age. But I got to thinking about exactly how much mAh I need for racing and I went down the rabbit hole of Voltage under load, mAh under load etc. Learned a lot in this thread but have some new questions. I'm in 17.5 2WD carpet, and I normally use about 225 mAh per minute of racing, so about 1370 mAh including the warmup before a heat. I had been running 5000 and 6000 mAh packs, but I think I'm just running extra weight for no reason. Also, after a heat I'm reading about 7.7v remaining in my pack (from 8.4v at the start). Does a pack run out of steam because of low mAh or remaining volts? What size pack do you think is ideal for 17.5 2WD buggy given my usage figures?
 
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