• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

LiPo Comparison Thread (LiPo and NiMH AAs)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Good question. I only have experience with running 5200mah at 8.7v in my 2wd so really can't say. (Regular shorties. From tests I seen LCG and ULCG packs, voltage drops sooner than normal size shorties)

Although I see people run 4400, 4600, in there's without any issues. Maybe for longer mains such as 8 minutes, maybe but that's just what I seen
 
Hi guys new on this site! Getting ready to retire a couple of packs that have high IRs due to age. But I got to thinking about exactly how much mAh I need for racing and I went down the rabbit hole of Voltage under load, mAh under load etc. Learned a lot in this thread but have some new questions. I'm in 17.5 2WD carpet, and I normally use about 225 mAh per minute of racing, so about 1370 mAh including the warmup before a heat. I had been running 5000 and 6000 mAh packs, but I think I'm just running extra weight for no reason. Also, after a heat I'm reading about 7.7v remaining in my pack (from 8.4v at the start). Does a pack run out of steam because of low mAh or remaining volts? What size pack do you think is ideal for 17.5 2WD buggy given my usage figures?
Does your ESC have data logging to view voltage drop throughout timeline?
 
I have the OTA and I just checked. Most up to date firmware is installed. I have the G3, not the newer G3S. In the HW Link app, under "Data Logging" it says Peak Recording or Data Logging. If I select Data Logging, I get an error that says "This feature is not supported at the moment". If I leave it at Peak Recording, nothing happens.
 
i have a checker / alarm that i used to double check voltages in the past, but thats about all i use it for. it doesn't measure amp draw etc. I've hooked up a GT Power current tester to my rig to determine my Max Amps under load for motor timing tuning.

IMG_5950.webp
 
There was some debate on IR being better with 2P cell configuration packs. I just can't wrap my head around how we are supposed to always balance cells for healthy/safe use of LiPo batteries, and then the 2P packs have all the extra cells that can't be "read" individually.
View attachment 233450
View attachment 233449
I just gave up trying to over think 2P configuration packs and caved in to buying them. My first 2S2P pack (2019) was a Zeee shorty and I still use it in my ET410 mini truggy.
View attachment 233451
When cells are charged, they are essentially pressurized. If you hooked up two cells in parallel and one was charged to 3V and the other to 4V, the 4V cell has more "pressure" in it and will bleed off some of that voltage to the lower charged cell. Now both cells will charge at virtually the same rate, at least initially when the pack is new and if one cell ends up with just a little more voltage than the other, the charge will equalize between the paralleled pair.

The downside is that you can't see the individual IRs of the cells, so you have no way to know if one of them is out of wack. Personally, I think most 2P+packs are usually meant for racers who are likely to replace LiPos much more often than us bashers, so they're probably fine for racers to use. Bashers I'd say be prepared to retire the pack at the first sign of issues.


Hi guys new on this site! Getting ready to retire a couple of packs that have high IRs due to age. But I got to thinking about exactly how much mAh I need for racing and I went down the rabbit hole of Voltage under load, mAh under load etc. Learned a lot in this thread but have some new questions. I'm in 17.5 2WD carpet, and I normally use about 225 mAh per minute of racing, so about 1370 mAh including the warmup before a heat. I had been running 5000 and 6000 mAh packs, but I think I'm just running extra weight for no reason. Also, after a heat I'm reading about 7.7v remaining in my pack (from 8.4v at the start). Does a pack run out of steam because of low mAh or remaining volts? What size pack do you think is ideal for 17.5 2WD buggy given my usage figures?
I'm not a racer so I can't speak directly to your point, but I'd probably try something in the 3000-3600mAh range and see how it goes in practice runs. Then adjust from there as needed.
 
Hey @Greywolf74 I just got this out of my Zeee's
Pretty good
I changed it to my other port on my charger and read 1.0/1.4 but still isn't that bad
Haven't had any voltage drop issues lately but the packs still probably have it. I just disabled my LVC and run it very carefully.
(Sorry for the thread derailment but I just felt like this was the best place to post this)
This was charged at true 2C 10.4A rate.
PXL_20250619_174829487.webp
PXL_20250619_174822939.webp
PXL_20250619_174842806.webp
 
If your familiar with the concept of the silicone lottery in CPUs/GPUs, the same thing applies in lipo cells, which is why I sometimes test multiples of the same packs to make sure some unexpected result (good or bad) wasn't a fluke.
 
Good video to watch for anyone wanting to know the latest and the best in LiPo tech.

I love that CHNL G+ was on the top of the charts for at least 2 of those graphs. The G+ batteries are really good budget packs. Have a pair of them myself, they stay balanced in every cell, better than any other packs I have and IRs are surprisingly low. Might be the best for a sub 50 dollar battery??? 🤷 SMC is also up there with CHNL on this as well.

And spektrum is on the lowest. Not just because it tests poorly but it is so dang expensive.

 
If your familiar with the concept of the silicone lottery in CPUs/GPUs, the same thing applies in lipo cells, which is why I sometimes test multiples of the same packs to make sure some unexpected result (good or bad) wasn't a fluke.
Yea. Now with these Zeee packs getting older, like I said I disabled my LVC since the voltage drop is super poor. And with me having a better charger that reads IRs while charging, while my old SkyRC only read IRs in a separate menu outside of a charge cycle, those same Zeee packs read around 5-6 per cell. Regular balance charging @ 10A. Zeees are okay packs for anything that's 1/10 or smaller and with something that is very low power like a brushed system but once you get into bigger sized cars, more heavier power and loads, that's where they start to fail on you. And at that point, might as well have gone with CHNL or SMC from the beginning.
 
I've ran a Youme Power pack before. Had one myself but that's way back when I was still running brushed motors. Tested and ran my EBuggy with a 4s Youme Power battery from my buddy. Wasn't a full size pack, much more rather shorty style. Had decent punch but it was much more hotter after running for 10mins than my G+ CHNL packs. (Can't remember what mah and c rating it was but still...)
 
Yea. Now with these Zeee packs getting older, like I said I disabled my LVC since the voltage drop is super poor. And with me having a better charger that reads IRs while charging, while my old SkyRC only read IRs in a separate menu outside of a charge cycle, those same Zeee packs read around 5-6 per cell. Regular balance charging @ 10A. Zeees are okay packs for anything that's 1/10 or smaller and with something that is very low power like a brushed system but once you get into bigger sized cars, more heavier power and loads, that's where they start to fail on you. And at that point, might as well have gone with CHNL or SMC from the beginning.

Oh Come On GIF
dude.😁:hehe:
Putting a blanket statement out there saying the batteries are only good for 1/10 scale or smaller/very low power platforms makes no sense. I hope you are talking about your Zeee 2S packs.
 
Whatfer RC(s) are you putting them shorties in?

Optima Mid. Its a SWB carbon fiber chassis. The just squeak in between the upper and lower deck!

I hope they'll keep up with me! 🤣

I'm SO close to running now!!! Just a few more parts, glue tires... Small details then I guess I need to get to a track. 😁
 
Back
Top