LiPo Comparison Thread (LiPo and NiMH AAs)

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Greywolf74

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I just want to start by saying that if my battery work is not news to you, you may want to read through the wall of text below because theres at least one new topic in here if not more.


The Main Objective:
All of my data (spread sheet and word file), test sheets, graphs, logs, pics, etc are hosted on my Google Drive and can be downloaded HERE.

As most of you know I've been testing LiPos and NiMH AAs and comparing them via a Spreadsheet (LiPos) or a Word File (NiMH AAs) for the last year and a half or so. While I'm not going to go nearly as in depth with the explanations this time around I will lay out the basics of what I'm doing and how I'm doing it since the original thread with all the detailed info in it got deleted. While the data in the spread sheet is not subjective the value of how much the better performing LiPos are worth to you is subjective and only you can decide that. This comparison guide is only meant to give you the raw data on how batteries perform so you can make up your mind for yourself as to what you want to buy. In regards to the "value" factor, I just want to point out that the prices listed in the spreadsheet were the prices at the time I purchased the batteries and like everything else most of them have gone up, especially recently so you'll have to research the current prices to make sure you know the current prices. I'm going to leave the prices I paid on there just as another means of comparison.

On to the equipment...
The equipment I'm using is a combination of the following:
Hyperion eMeterII datalogger
Progressive RC ESR Meter Mark II
DL24 &DL24P electronic load (Only difference between these two units is the DL24P is 180W and the DL24 maxes out at 150W)
SkyRC BD250 Battery Discharger & Analyzer
and for the really high current load testing I built a resistive load tester. The build thread for which you can find HERE if you're interested. If you only want to see the pics you can find those HERE.

A brief overview of the how:
All the stats listed in my spread sheet are averages of multiple tests done and various amp draws, starting with 1C and working up to 100A tests. The packs go through a total of 15 cycles. Three 1C cycles for comparing Stated mAh rating against True mAh rating, three 2C cycles to break in the packs, three 35A cycles, three 70A cycles, and three 100A cycles. All of the data from those cycles are added together and then averaged to derive the final results. Other data is collected too besides just the mAh and voltages like True C Rating and IRs. Now I've even started including mAh rating under load which is also and average from all of the electronic load tests. Just as a side note, I also created two new columns to the spread sheet that gives a percentage of mAh under load compared to not only the stated mAh rating on the pack but also compared to the actual mAh rating. I felt like this was necessary as a LiPo can output 94% of its true mAh rating under load but its true mAh rating could be 1000mAh less than its advertised mAh rating. Occasionally other data may be collected on the test sheets that don't make it to the spreadsheet like pack temps at various amp cycles or any abnormalities with the pack that I might find. I kinda only do the temps now when I notice a pack is overly warm, mainly because I noticed that the good lipos don't typically have temp issues like the crappy batts do :)

For those wondering about variations in performance from pack to pack or those wondering if my test results are repeatable I will say that I have begun exploring that aspect and have recently purchased 9 more LiPos that are the same LiPos as other packs I've already tested. I've run 3 of those LiPos through the gauntlet and two of those LiPos were the same LiPo so I have 3 sets of results from the 3 Purple Tindling 5200mAh 50C packs. The initial results are showing that those initial packs that I've tested all had similar results to each other. The other two matching Orange Tindling 5200mAh 50C packs produced similar results to each other also. I'm confident that as I test more LiPos thats I've already tested the results will be within acceptable tolerances. If any big discrepancies are found between two identical packs, I will order a third or even a fourth one if I have to in order to try and see what is causing said discrepancies.

This is what the Test Sheets look like and shows the tests and the order in which they are carried out. *NOTE* The Average mAh Under Load does not appear on this older test sheet. It is now on the current test sheets however. The mAh Under Load statistic is something that the data logger has always captured but at first I wasn't putting it on the test sheets. Thats why I've been able to go back through all of the test results and get those numbers to put on the spread sheet.
Test Sheet - Liperior 5000mAh 50C.jpg


This is an example of one of the discharge graphs.
Liperior 5000mAh 50C 35A 1.jpg



For the skeptics:
I freely admit that I'm not an engineer, I am an IT manager for the Department of Defense. I do in fact work in an entire organization that specializes in R&D for the DOD, so while I'm just a lowly IT professional I have in fact had my work reviewed by some of the electrical engineers that work in the same building I do on top of what I know about electronics from the 25+ years I've been in IT. In terms of building a database for the purpose of creating a solid platform to be able to objectively compare LiPos I think any engineer or electronics professional would be hard pressed to dispute my data or the manner in which it is collected. To that end I have not only made the results of the testing available but also the data logs, graphs, test sheets, methodology, and equipment used available in case anyone wants to investigate my data. I'm confident enough in not only what I'm doing but also how I'm doing it to provide full transparency to those interested in what I'm doing.

Thanks,
Greywolf74
 
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BTW, First round of NiMH AA testing for self discharge is done now too. (See the word file on my Amazon Drive). I will test self discharge again at the 6 month, 9 month, and 12 month points.
 
Amazing work and really interesting data.

It's interesting that some batteries are definitely hurt and lost performance after 100a tests. But some didn't lose capacity even they didn't perform well.

It is also interesting that some people have no idea how good battery should perform. For example a lot of people praise zeee but it's clear that voltage sag is terrible, run time low and capacity was hurt. I was claiming that lectron pro are one of the worst batteries ever made and tests definitely back that.

It's also interesting that some batteries performed terrible, huge voltage sag under load but capacity was not hurt or didn't puff, but some batteries performed better but lost capacity or puffed
 
Amazing work and really interesting data.

It's interesting that some batteries are definitely hurt and lost performance after 100a tests. But some didn't lose capacity even they didn't perform well.

It is also interesting that some people have no idea how good battery should perform. For example a lot of people praise zeee but it's clear that voltage sag is terrible, run time low and capacity was hurt. I was claiming that lectron pro are one of the worst batteries ever made and tests definitely back that.

It's also interesting that some batteries performed terrible, huge voltage sag under load but capacity was not hurt or didn't puff, but some batteries performed better but lost capacity or puffed
Yeah, some packs really surprised me. Some in a good way and some in a bad way. The tests have taught me a lot about LiPos. For example, I've learned that graphene doesn't mean anything. In fact a lot of the graphene packs I tested were crap.
 
It's also interesting that some lipos that perform terrible, from my experience lectron pro and venom 20c, when used in demanding situation like boats, 8scale, perform poor, terrible voltage sag, run very warm, can't even hold them for a long time but don't puff.

Contrary to that, for example liperior pro 4000mah 75c perform exceptionally good, but like to puff slightly, and after some time shrink.

The worst when it comes to puffing is protek racing packs. They are ok for 13.5 or 17.5 racing, but once I tried it in my friends small, maybe 26 inch 2s boat puffed double the size, like a balloon. Boat was flying compared to cheap 5000 2s packs though. A lot of people who race call them propuff instead of protek :)
 
Just to clear up some confusion if you're struggling to understand the data on the spreadsheet...

The LiPos with the highest Voltage Under Load scores are pretty much going to be the best ones. Generally speaking the ones with the best Voltage Under Load are also going to have the better IRs and True C Ratings. If you're just looking for the best bang for the buck, find the lipos with the highest Voltage Under Load that are at a price point that fits your budget. Just bear in mind prices of a lot of the lipos on the list have gone up (like everything else) over the last 6 months so you may want to look up the current prices.

Best bang for the buck LiPos imho would be Liperior (yellow packs), Liperior pro, CNHL G+ Series, and Zippy Compact. Those are in no particular order. There are technically better batteries but theyre a lot more expensive so unless you are racing one of those packs would be my recommendation. If you're just looking for the best performing lipo regardless of cost thats pretty much going to be the ones with the highest Voltage Under Load ratings with the next important category being % of mAh vs Actual mAh rating (Under Load). That being said you have to make sure the Actual mAh Rating is at least close to the Stated mAh Rating. A LiPo could supply 100% of its Actual mAh Rating (Under Load) but if the Actual mAh Rating is 1000mAh lower than the Stated mAh Rating on the pack then the % of mAh vs Actual mAh (under Load) doesn't really mean as much. I hope that makes sense. If this is confusing for anyone let me know and Ill see if I can break it down a different way.

I've uploaded a second copy of the spreadsheet that is sorted by highest Voltage Under Load to make it easier. its the spreadsheet that has (VUL) at the end of the file name.

The Liperior endurance and the CNHL Racing packs are not very good so be careful which line of Liperior or CNHL you're buying.
 
It is also interesting that some people have no idea how good battery should perform. For example a lot of people praise zeee but it's clear that voltage sag is terrible, run time low and capacity was hurt.

I agree that Zeee would not be my first choice to run in stock classes where getting IR below 1mΩ/cell is essential in being competitive, I have found Zeee Premium batteries to perform extremely well in my mod cars.

The secret to getting peak performance out of any pack is to charge them at higher charge rates to get the cells to "wake up", here's a pic of a fairly new Zeee pack that was charged at 20A and you can see that I took the IR readings toward the end of the charge cycle which represents the peak time to get the best IR readings.

1672780381087.png


As far as performance goes, I'm able to last a full 8 min main without fade, I'm not a pro level driver, but had the rare opportunity this past weekend to race with a bunch of pros and my Zeee battery was able to do just fine against some of the fastest drivers in the region:

https://trc.liverc.com/results/?p=view_multi_main_result&id=527298

1672780856661.png




In no way am I saying Zeee is better than a "High Quality" brand of battery, but there is a point of diminishing return where Zeee is certainly "Good Enough" to be competitive as I've demonstrated above.

That said, for stock classes there is no substitute for Trinity White Carbon in my book based on a handful of brands I've personally tested over the years.

It's VERY important to "Cycle" your pack with a discharge and charge at 40A in order to get a true peak performance metric from the pack. Charging at 1C is not reliable data for a club racer like me :(

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about saving money where possible, you can go cheap for mod but you can't go cheap for stock racing.
 
Newest updated spreadsheet is out. I'm starting to test more and more duplicate and triplicate packs to make sure that the results are within a certain tolerance. This is important to establish that cells used by a specific company for a specific model of LiPo are all similar and not producing widely varying results.
Tested a second CNHL G+ Series 6200mAh 30C and a second Lectron Pro 5200mAh 50C pack.
 
Latest updated spread sheet is out. Tested a second pair of Liperior 5000mAh 50C and Turnigy 5000mAh 40C batteries. Ill be testing more duplicate batteries as I go to see how quality control is with some of the better scoring batteries.
It's VERY important to "Cycle" your pack with a discharge and charge at 40A in order to get a true peak performance metric from the pack. Charging at 1C is not reliable data for a club racer like me :(
Question for ya Bill. I just saw this statement. My charger maxes out at 30A and my CC discharger maxes out at 35A. Would a 30A charge and a 35A discharge be good enough for a club racer?

Also, whats the exact process you use? starting at storage charge do you then discharge down to 3.2v/c and then fast balance charge till its finished the charge cycle? I wanna try a few tests replicating as close as I can to your racing method.
 
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Latest updated spread sheet is out. Tested a second pair of Liperior 5000mAh 50C and Turnigy 5000mAh 40C batteries. Ill be testing more duplicate batteries as I go to see how quality control is with some of the better scoring batteries.

Question for ya Bill. I just saw this statement. My charger maxes out at 30A and my CC discharger maxes out at 35A. Would a 30A charge and a 35A discharge be good enough for a club racer?

Also, whats the exact process you use? starting at storage charge do you then discharge down to 3.2v/c and then fast balance charge till its finished the charge cycle? I wanna try a few tests replicating as close as I can to your racing method.
Yes, 30A would be just fine, in fact many racers in my area swear that 20A is sufficient, I just go with 40A because that's the max my charger is capable of and the guys going 20A are limited to that with their charger as well, ha!

I use a discharge bank hooked up into my charger with a single button press where it charges the pack to top it off at 40A, then a 40A discharge to LVC immediately followed with a 40A charge... this is a cycle:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...-charger-is-the-best&perpage=100#post43510433


What you see in that video is nearly identical to my setup as well as the majority of the fast guys running stock classes at most tracks I frequent.
 
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Yes, 30A would be just fine, in fact many racers in my area swear that 20A is sufficient, I just go with 40A because that's the max my charger is capable of and the guys going 20A are limited to that with their charger as well, ha!

I use a discharge bank hooked up into my charger with a single button press where it charges the pack to top it off at 40A, then a 40A discharge to LVC immediately followed with a 40A charge... this is a cycle:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...-charger-is-the-best&perpage=100#post43510433


What you see in that video is nearly identical to my setup as well as the majority of the fast guys running stock classes at most tracks I frequent.
Cool, I'm gonna test half a dozen packs that I've already tested using this method and see if they'll rank any differently than they did doing it the way I've been doing it. I'm curious to see if they will rank differently. I'm sure the numbers will be better but if they still rank the same then club racers should be able to use my battery data too.
 
Cool, I'm gonna test half a dozen packs that I've already tested using this method and see if they'll rank any differently than they did doing it the way I've been doing it. I'm curious to see if they will rank differently. I'm sure the numbers will be better but if they still rank the same then club racers should be able to use my battery data too.

My prediction is that the gap will be more narrow with the budget brands, yes the name brands will show better results, but the budget brands will likely be close enough to be acceptable where I use budget packs for mod classes and will splurge for name brand in stock classes to get that extra little punch :)

I would also be willing to bet that many of the budget packs will get better readings when cycled as compared to the results you were getting of a name brand 1C (no cycle) reading.

Here's an example of 30A cycling results between MaxAmps, Gens-Ace and SkyRC:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361
 
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My prediction is that the gap will be more narrow with the budget brands, yes the name brands will show better results, but the budget brands will likely be close enough to be acceptable where I use budget packs for mod classes and will splurge for name brand in stock classes to get that extra little punch :)

I would also be willing to bet that many of the budget packs will get better readings when cycled as compared to the results you were getting of a name brand 1C (no cycle) reading.

Here's an example of 30A cycling results between MaxAmps, Gens-Ace and SkyRC:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361
It will be interesting to find out. I'm familiar with Jangs work there and its eventual outcome :(

I was charging at 2C BTW. Granted its not 40A but higher than 1C :)
I wish Id have been aware of how the club racers did their cycles I would have adjusted my testing methods. Would have saved me time too. That being said, my prediction is my results will still be basically the same in terms of simple comparative testing albeit with higher numbers. You may be right though, the results may be more narrow.

Regardless of the outcome though for the average basher my testing results will still be relevant. I'm just hoping its also relevant for club racers too.
 
Glad I came across this thread, great information and explains the problem my roommate is having with his fireteam and the short run times. He gets maybe 3-5 minutes out of two 50c 5200mah Lectron Pro 3s packs if he's hard on the throttle. 10-12 minutes if he's super gentle on the throttle. Packs are also noticeably warm after use and its below 0 degrees outside.
My e-revo with two 25c 5000mah Traxxas 3s packs gets easily more than double the run time and I was being just as hard on the throttle. Packs are stone cold when I unplugged them... I have no way of measuring the IR on my traxxas packs at the moment, however I was able to get the IR's on his pack and they are right around 14mΩ. I know traxxas packs aren't the best and they wouldn't be my first choice, but getting LiPo's up here are incredibly difficult and expensive since they won't ship them by air anymore and I'm really glad I didn't get the hobby store Lectron Pro's after seeing what I'm reading here and what my roommate is dealing with. Also, for what it's worth. The Lectron Pro's have 6-8 cycles on them and my traxxas packs have 3-4 cycles.

I was under the impression that his LVC was set high initially, but we soon realized that the option to change that Is locked out of the Firma ESC. Packs would be at 3.7v/cell after it would go into LVC. But after playing around with them yesterday and him being a little more gently on the throttle, the LVC cut out at 3.4v/cell(much more reasonable), which leads me to believe the voltage sag on those batteries is so bad that at 3.7v under load its triggering the LVC. Makes my mind wander if the cells are dropping lower than the safe threshold at that point when there's a spike in load...

I remember years ago when I was a little more invested into the hobby reading about venom batteries having similar issues and even puffing/catching fire? I wonder if these cells are made by the same supplier maybe? Going to be keeping a little bit of a closer eye on his packs, he keeps them in a LiPo bag, so hopefully it doesn't take out my house 😂
 
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I would tell him to return the Lectron Pro's. Look at the reviews on Amazon. Lots of complaints about them, on top of Grey's findings.
 
Glad I came across this thread, great information and explains the problem my roommate is having with his fireteam and the short run times. He gets maybe 3-5 minutes out of two 50c 5200mah Lectron Pro 3s packs if he's hard on the throttle. 10-12 minutes if he's super gentle on the throttle. Packs are also noticeably warm after use and its below 0 degrees outside.
My e-revo with two 25c 5000mah Traxxas 3s packs gets easily more than double the run time and I was being just as hard on the throttle. Packs are stone cold when I unplugged them... I have no way of measuring the IR on my traxxas packs at the moment, however I was able to get the IR's on his pack and they are right around 14mΩ. I know traxxas packs aren't the best and they wouldn't be my first choice, but getting LiPo's up here are incredibly difficult and expensive since they won't ship them by air anymore and I'm really glad I didn't get the hobby store Lectron Pro's after seeing what I'm reading here and what my roommate is dealing with. Also, for what it's worth. The Lectron Pro's have 6-8 cycles on them and my traxxas packs have 3-4 cycles.

I was under the impression that his LVC was set high initially, but we soon realized that the option to change that Is locked out of the Firma ESC. Packs would be at 3.7v/cell after it would go into LVC. But after playing around with them yesterday and him being a little more gently on the throttle, the LVC cut out at 3.4v/cell(much more reasonable), which leads me to believe the voltage sag on those batteries is so bad that at 3.7v under load its triggering the LVC. Makes my mind wander if the cells are dropping lower than the safe threshold at that point when there's a spike in load...

I remember years ago when I was a little more invested into the hobby reading about venom batteries having similar issues and even puffing/catching fire? I wonder if these cells are made by the same supplier maybe? Going to be keeping a little bit of a closer eye on his packs, he keeps them in a LiPo bag, so hopefully it doesn't take out my house 😂
I have identical experience. Using lectron pro in my erevo 2.0 lvc would hit after only couple minutes and I can charge only 2400 mAh out of 5200.

Traxxas batteries wark flawless even in UDR that is even more power hungry. Also at least newer Traxxas batteries seem to be more resistant to puffing. I have a bad habit of leaving lipo in my car even during summer, and I have a lot of batteries slightly puff from heat, but not Traxxas.

Craziest thing is, lectron pro batteries are even more expensive than Traxxas, and everyone will agree that Traxxas batteries are overpriced. And even crazier thing is that many hobby shops actually recommend this battery as the first and best choice
 
@bill_delong

I've finally completed what I'm calling the 30-35 tests. I picked 15 packs from the initial testing, half of them from some of the better performing packs and half from some of everything else. I did make sure to test the Zeee Premiums too since I know you use those just so you could use it for comparison if you so choose. All packs where testing with the following procedure:

1) Fast charged @30A from storage to full
2) Discharged down to 3.2V/C @35A
3) Fast charged @30A from empty to full
4) Discharged down to 3.2V/C @35A while being data logged
5) Fast charged @30A from empty to full
6) Discharged down to 3.2V/C @35A while being data logged
7) The second set of numbers are what I used to plug in to the spreadsheet since the second set of test results were better than the first set across the board.

All charges and discharges were done with less than 30 second gaps in between to keep pack temperatures as high as possible. In most cases charges and discharges were performed immediately with as little gap as possible.

HERE is the link to the spread sheet but for convenience I have attached a pic of the spreadsheet. From what I see, the 30-35 tests do produce better numbers in terms of higher Voltage Under Load, lower IRs, and a little higher True C Ratings while the Average mAh Under Load stays right around the same numbers. The big take away here is that while some of the batteries did swap places on the chart the Turnigy, Liperior, and Liperior Pro packs all stay in the top 4 spots in both charts. Expanding out the observation ever further all of the "good" batteries stayed in the top half of the chart while all of the "crappier" batteries (for a lack of a better term) stayed in the bottom half of the chart. My conclusion is that while the 30-35 method does produce better overall results for racing, the overall effect on my initial comparative results tests its fairly minimal. Id say for the average basher it doesn't really impact the results at all and if your a racer the results may vary in the top 5-10 slots but for the most part it will still be mostly the same packs in those slots just in a slightly different order.

30-35 Testing Comparison.JPG


***SIDE NOTE***
I update the rechargable AA word dock to show "% of advertised mAh" and I also rearranged the list to be in order from best to worst. Same goes for the first quarter self-discharge tests. Second quarter discharge tests will take place at the end of February. I will post the results from that soon after.
 
@Greywolf74

Thank you very much for taking the time to perform the additional tests!

It also shows the importance of cycling batteries at 30A where the majority of batteries cycled at 30A performed better than the top performing battery at 5A

I don't use Zeee packs for stock racing where IR is critical, but I would be willing to bet that my preferred brand Trinity White Carbon (TWC) will be toward the top of the list in your results, and more importantly is that the TWC packs tend to last longer before they degrade making them more cost effective over the long haul.

Other factors to consider are manufactured date where some of the off brands you bought may have sat on the shelf for an extended period of time which can skew the results as age will degrade a battery.

I found it comical that the Max Amps was toward the bottom of the list where many people from URC would call them Max Cramps, more info here on the back story:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361
 
@Greywolf74

Thank you very much for taking the time to perform the additional tests!

It also shows the importance of cycling batteries at 30A where the majority of batteries cycled at 30A performed better than the top performing battery at 5A

I don't use Zeee packs for stock racing where IR is critical, but I would be willing to bet that my preferred brand Trinity White Carbon (TWC) will be toward the top of the list in your results, and more importantly is that the TWC packs tend to last longer before they degrade making them more cost effective over the long haul.

Other factors to consider are manufactured date where some of the off brands you bought may have sat on the shelf for an extended period of time which can skew the results as age will degrade a battery.

I found it comical that the Max Amps was toward the bottom of the list where many people from URC would call them Max Cramps, more info here on the back story:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361
I really wanted to get in to testing some of the higher end batteries but since I have no need for the batteries myself and my Patreon gained zero momentum, I guess I'll just have to be content with what I've got :)
 
I really wanted to get in to testing some of the higher end batteries but since I have no need for the batteries myself and my Patreon gained zero momentum, I guess I'll just have to be content with what I've got :)
It would be interesting to test some racing shorty packs. There is not too many different brands, maybe 5 6 major brands.

I am a fan of reedy batteries but I have seen a lot of reviewers that new sg5 are not as good as older. I used protek, they like to puff, people at my track call them propuff. Btw, yokomo cars also have a nick name brokomo :). Used Orion carbon as well, junk battery, puffed from sitting. At my track most popular brand is probably Performa, its not really a big popular.brand overall put everyone is happy with performance. A lot of people run smc packs but they are old and at the end of the life.
@Greywolf74

Thank you very much for taking the time to perform the additional tests!

It also shows the importance of cycling batteries at 30A where the majority of batteries cycled at 30A performed better than the top performing battery at 5A

I don't use Zeee packs for stock racing where IR is critical, but I would be willing to bet that my preferred brand Trinity White Carbon (TWC) will be toward the top of the list in your results, and more importantly is that the TWC packs tend to last longer before they degrade making them more cost effective over the long haul.

Other factors to consider are manufactured date where some of the off brands you bought may have sat on the shelf for an extended period of time which can skew the results as age will degrade a battery.

I found it comical that the Max Amps was toward the bottom of the list where many people from URC would call them Max Cramps, more info here on the back story:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3342095-MaxAmps&perpage=100#post42146361
I am one of the slower guys at my track so low ir would not make me any faster, for example fastest guys had hot lap time 14 seconds compare to my 16. But there is definitely a difference. Today I tried one old smc pack that someone has thrown away, I don't have a charger that can measure ir, but the car was really struggling to clear the jumps, no punch at all.
 
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