HOT motor hpi blitz

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turts

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  1. Racing
OK, i just got a venom 3s2p 6400mah lipo for my stock blitz.
i went out for a test drive for 10 mins, it went good until i fliped it. when i went to it i could smell some thing burning i touch the motor is was hot. so is there any thing i need for it i have stock blitz waterproof rtr. so any one know what to do and y it like that
 
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It's only intended for 2s lipo, you could gear it down a tooth or two on the pinion, depending on how hot it's getting.
 
ok i was looking at it but i saw this "Controller and motor max 2S. Controller alone with motor of lower KV max = 3S" would it mean i would need a motor with less kv to use 3s lipo beacuse I'm looking for a good speed control and good motor that i wouldent have to replace. I'm trying to have it races
 
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Of your going to race a t or on a roar track, your only going to be able to run 2s hard pack. If the motor is getting hot then you change the pinion to a lower tooth count. If the esc is getting hot you will need fan. If it is still getting hot you will need to increase the c rating. 40c bats are the ticket and usually the ticket.
 
The Castle Sidewinder and 1410 motor are both 3S lipo max. The 2S max is for anything over 3800kv. That being said Castle doesn't recommend 3S on that system on anything bigger or heavier than a 2WD 1/10 scale kit. I own the sidewinder/1410 kit and I've used it on 3S in my Rustler. The 1410 motor even says 3S lipo max right on the side of it as you can see in this picture. the 1410 (or 3800kv) is pictured here on the left.


3059_402958059751347_1361581107_n.jpg
 
The Castle Sidewinder and 1410 motor are both 3S lipo max. The 2S max is for anything over 3800kv. That being said Castle doesn't recommend 3S on that system on anything bigger or heavier than a 2WD 1/10 scale kit. I own the sidewinder/1410 kit and I've used it on 3S in my Rustler. The 1410 motor even says 3S lipo max right on the side of it as you can see in this picture. the 1410 (or 3800kv) is pictured here on the left.


3059_402958059751347_1361581107_n.jpg


that's the same setup I went out and bought for my sc10 just last week. I've been running 18t pinion and I can't even get it hot after a full 5000mah 2s with almost all full throttle. tho I do have the cooling plate as well. even been running some proline paddles on the back with no heat issues.

amain is listing it as 135? my LHS has it for 119+ tax. seems high to me.
 
that's the same setup I went out and bought for my sc10 just last week. I've been running 18t pinion and I can't even get it hot after a full 5000mah 2s with almost all full throttle. tho I do have the cooling plate as well. even been running some proline paddles on the back with no heat issues.

amain is listing it as 135? my LHS has it for 119+ tax. seems high to me.

so would this 5000mah 40c 2s lipo is good http://www.rcplanet.com/Venom_40C_2S_5000mAh_7_4V_Battery_DuraTrax_Onyx_p/vnr15084-dtxp4230.htm
:n00bie:
 
well mines only a 25c so the one your looking at is a bit better.

the charger shown in the link is the one I have as well. its nice, but could use a store/discharge ability. other then that its great, hooks up to car battery or house plug.
 
so what does MaH and c mean and witch one is better
 
The MAH rating is how much energy the battery releases and the bigger the number the longer runtime. The C rating is like a blood vessel. The higher this rating the bigger the vain for more energy to flow thru. For example, if you have a 2s lipo with a 1800mah 20c rating it will not last as long or put out as much energy as a 2s 3000mah 30c rating.

---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ----------

Also the more the mah rating the bigger the battery will be.
 
How Hot is your motor temps & do you have a temp gun... & make shure your gear mesh is proper....
 

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