4WD 1/10 (1/8) SCT under $300.

[biggman100]

I am looking for recommendations on 4WD SCT's, but, i am looking for 1/8TH scale based trucks, which leaves out the Redcat Blackout SC, and similar sized vehicles. So far, the only ones i have found are the Arrma Senton (which, after the issues i have had with the two V1 Senton's i had and the V1 Granite i have, I am leaning away from), the Traxxas Slash, which, due to personal reason's, i wont own, or the DHK Hobby Hunter (of which i already have 2, so i'm looking for something else). I am looking at the under $300 range, and definitely brushed, unless i find a really good BL deal.

 

[Edough13]

Arrma Senton all the way! The v1 rigs you had and the new v3 rigs don't even compare. Like comparing a station wagon to a Ferrari. In the price range you won't find a better truck than the Senton ?

 

[WoodiE]

I might be a bit biased, but I too would suggest an Arrma Senton!

 

[biggman100]

I might be a bit biased, but I too would suggest an Arrma Senton!

Are there any major differences between the Mega and BLX V3 Senton? The reason I'm asking is because i will probably start with the Mega, since it is for a 9 year old, and then upgrade as he gets more familiar with it. I want something he can run against my brushed Hunter with, but, i dont really want to have to build another brushed Hunter. My other possible idea was to buy a used roller and the parts, and then he can help me build it, but, me and building doesn't go well much anymore (i can buy used ARR's for around $200, and throw a radio/receiver in it, and run it, or buy a new RTR for $100 more, so I've gotten lazy about building the last couple years, so building from a roller takes me weeks to get motivated enough to work on it).

 

[Slick2500]

As much as I love Arrma I would avoid the 1/10 4x4 platform, the models are all extremely overhyped for what they are. I have a V1 Typhon 3s and a V2 Senton 3s and to be honest I would never buy another one after how bad both models were.

If I was in the market for another SCT I would get the Tekno SCT410.3 and never look back.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-...ic-4wd-short-course-truck-kit-tkr5507/p438712

 

[Slick2500]

Are there any major differences between the Mega and BLX V3 Senton? The reason I'm asking is because i will probably start with the Mega, since it is for a 9 year old, and then upgrade as he gets more familiar with it. I want something he can run against my brushed Hunter with, but, i dont really want to have to build another brushed Hunter. My other possible idea was to buy a used roller and the parts, and then he can help me build it, but, me and building doesn't go well much anymore (i can buy used ARR's for around $200, and throw a radio/receiver in it, and run it, or buy a new RTR for $100 more, so I've gotten lazy about building the last couple years, so building from a roller takes me weeks to get motivated enough to work on it).

The motor mount on the Mega is fixed, the BLX is adjustable, the steering and camber links are solid plastic on the Mega the BLX are adjustable, the slipper is different setup on the Mega, 48p gears on the Mega vs 32p on the BLX and of course the electronics are different.

 

[Edough13]

As much as I love Arrma I would avoid the 1/10 4x4 platform, the models are all extremely overhyped for what they are. I have a V1 Typhon 3s and a V2 Senton 3s and to be honest I would never buy another one after how bad both models were.

If I was in the market for another SCT I would get the Tekno SCT410.3 and never look back.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-...ic-4wd-short-course-truck-kit-tkr5507/p438712

I'd put my Granite v2 up against any other 1/10 4x4 3s rig in the same price range any day! Nothing in the same price range would stand a chance, not even close! Not to mention the Arrma 2 year warranty.....

 

[biggman100]

The motor mount on the Mega is fixed, the BLX is adjustable, the steering and camber links are solid plastic on the Mega the BLX are adjustable, the slipper is different setup on the Mega, 48p gears on the Mega vs 32p on the BLX and of course the electronics are different.

Sounds like i would still be in the same boat i was in with the V1 Senton's, in that, i would want the fixed links and motor mount, but would want the brushless electronics, and 32P spur, except that with both my V1 Granite and the V1 Senton that i made brushless, i had a pile of issues with them, from diffs locking up, to axles breaking, to eventually snapping a driveshaft. However, i am very hard on my bashers, which is why the DHK Hunter works better for me. The kid I'm looking into this for though, wants something different than my DHK. I wonder if i could get away with another Hunter, and putting a Senton body on it (not with this kid, he would know almost instantly).

 

[Edough13]

Nice thing with the new mega's also is they are brushless ready. So the drivetrain(diffs,input gears etc) are the same as the 3s versions, so making the brushless change is a whole lot easier now. Believe it's just the motor, ESC and slipper assembly that needs changed. Just another thought if you plan to eventually upgrade as you said ?

 

[TurboChargedHonda]

Associated just came out with the Pro4 SC10. It's $320 for brushless without the battery, so you might want to put that into consideration:
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/cars_and_trucks/Pro4SC10/RTR/specs/

 

[Slick2500]

I'd put my Granite v2 up against any other 1/10 4x4 3s rig in the same price range any day! Nothing in the same price range would stand a chance, not even close! Not to mention the Arrma 2 year warranty.....

Arrma made the 1/10 4x4 vehicles to make that price point and it really shows once you actually start look at these things. Plastic balls in the rod ends? None replaceable rod ends on the shocks. Turnbuckles that bend or break like twigs. Crappy steering servos. The fixed motor mount is oftentimes made wrong causing the motor to bind, both of mine were made wrong btw. Tires that blow apart. A arms that are made from glass. Plastic driveshafts that twist themselves apart. Front c hubs and caster blocks that are made of glass. And let us not forget the stupid motor module design, that's supposed to be easy to remove but instead takes prying with 3 screwdrivers to remove and traps dirt inside of itself that just destroys the bearings in the slipper and motor. And now your $300 rc has just become a $400-500 rc because you have to fix/replace all of the crap they couldn't get right and you still have to deal with the stupid motor module.

As much as I like Arrma they really need to go back to the drawing board on the 1/10 platform.

 

[biggman100]

Associated just came out with the Pro4 SC10. It's $320 for brushless without the battery, so you might want to put that into consideration:
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/cars_and_trucks/Pro4SC10/RTR/specs/

I saw that already. The driveshafts look almost the same as the Senton. They are definitely the same style at least, and look to be made of plastic, but, if that is the only part that may eventually need to be upgraded, i might be able to live with that. I also have an opportunity to buy back my old SC10 belt drive 4X4 (i was on Associated's site looking through parts availability for the SC10 when i saw the new one), but I'm not sure i want to give that to a 9 year old, since that truck was set up for racing, and is in no way a basher. At least then my personal collection of discontinued vehicles would be complete. I already have an Arrma Fury and a Racers Edge Pro2/Team C TS2. The SC10 was my first 4X4 SCT race truck, when i was still racing. I have to remember though, I'm doing this for a 9 year old, not me LOL.

Arrma made the 1/10 4x4 vehicles to make that price point and it really shows once you actually start look at these things. Plastic balls in the rod ends? None replaceable rod ends on the shocks. Turnbuckles that bend or break like twigs. Crappy steering servos. The fixed motor mount is oftentimes made wrong causing the motor to bind, both of mine were made wrong btw. Tires that blow apart. A arms that are made from glass. Plastic driveshafts that twist themselves apart. Front c hubs and caster blocks that are made of glass. And let us not forget the stupid motor module design, that's supposed to be easy to remove but instead takes prying with 3 screwdrivers to remove and traps dirt inside of itself that just destroys the bearings in the slipper and motor. And now your $300 rc has just become a $400-500 rc because you have to fix/replace all of the crap they couldn't get right and you still have to deal with the stupid motor module.

As much as I like Arrma they really need to go back to the drawing board on the 1/10 platform.

A lot of these issues are why i ended up with my first DHK Hunter. I originally bought a V1 Granite, liked it at first, so then i bought a V1 Senton, but after a couple months of hard use, i had issues with driveshafts snapping, even after loosening the slipper, then had to replace the motor, then the servo, then the ESC twice, so then i put a mild BL set up in the Senton (3300KV motor, HW 60A ESC), and it seemed to just make the issues worse. Granted, both of them were Mega versions, but, it just seemed to be excessive, and then i kept getting told that to make it durable, it would be better to upgrade at least half of it to the BLX version, and even buying a complete BLX roller on eBay would have been another $200 plus per truck. At the price point the Mega is at, I'm not looking for bulletproof, but, when you start getting told that you need to upgrade some parts with Traxxas parts (originally, that was the only way to upgrade the plastic axles), since they are more durable, thats when i step back and rethink things. Even now i dont think Arrma makes a metal upgraded driveshaft, but, i also havent looked into it since i sold my Senton, and then gave my Granite to a 10 year old. I do have to replace parts in the rear diff, yet again, in the Granite, since one of the outputs is seized to the housing again, and its back to brushed and keeps doing that.

 

[AClegg]

Do you ever plan on racing it or just bashing?

 

[TurboChargedHonda]

I saw that already. The driveshafts look almost the same as the Senton. They are definitely the same style at least, and look to be made of plastic, but, if that is the only part that may eventually need to be upgraded, i might be able to live with that. I also have an opportunity to buy back my old SC10 belt drive 4X4 (i was on Associated's site looking through parts availability for the SC10 when i saw the new one), but I'm not sure i want to give that to a 9 year old, since that truck was set up for racing, and is in no way a basher. At least then my personal collection of discontinued vehicles would be complete. I already have an Arrma Fury and a Racers Edge Pro2/Team C TS2. The SC10 was my first 4X4 SCT race truck, when i was still racing. I have to remember though, I'm doing this for a 9 year old, not me LOL.

I don't see anything wrong with having a racing vehicle. As far as I know, racing vehicles can be just as durable as bashers, but that's just me, so go with whichever one is your top choice.

 

[AClegg]

You get a bit better control and a lot more adjustments with a race version. More money goes into their design and build materials.

 

[biggman100]

Do you ever plan on racing it or just bashing?

Just bashing. All the tracks around here have priced it to where only serious racers even want to bother anymore.

You get a bit better control and a lot more adjustments with a race version. More money goes into their design and build materials.

That's the thing though, I prefer less adjustments, simply because it makes life a bit easier, as well as cheaper, when all you have to do is slap in a new link, and don't have to assemble or adjust anything. My ultimate vehicle would be something like the 3S Senton, with fixed links and the Mega's motor mount. Now if only Losi would come out with a 4WD 22S, that would be absolutely perfect.

 

[biggman100]

I don't see anything wrong with having a racing vehicle. As far as I know, racing vehicles can be just as durable as bashers, but that's just me, so go with whichever one is your top choice.

The issue I have with race vehicles is that I am extremely hard on my stuff, and I tend to bend the thin adjustable links quite often. It's why, anymore, my Arrma Fury sees very limited use since I picked up a Losi 22S. The only vehicle I have found that I haven't bent a link on yet is my DHK Hunter's.

 

[AClegg]

Are you talking about the turnbuckle rods? That depends on which ones you get. it's been awhile sense I have bent one of those, but I know it happens. However, the other components on racers are more durable than the bashers. We use our racers for bashing more than we use our bashers. They handle and jump a lot better.

 

[biggman100]

Are you talking about the turnbuckle rods? That depends on which ones you get. it's been awhile sense I have bent one of those, but I know it happens. However, the other components on racers are more durable than the bashers. We use our racers for bashing more than we use our bashers. They handle and jump a lot better.

I wonder if it depends on how you run it. I have huge jumps where I run at, and mine take some very hard landings. I also run them at a concrete skate park from time to time.

 

[AClegg]

we don't take them to skate board parks. They are not allowed there. We prefer the dirt. Have you ever raced? At the races, you will walls, corners on pipes, other cars, and even get taco'ed by someone going full speed. It's not pretty out there. For bashing, we just went out, last weekend, and was launching them off dirt mounds that were about 3 feet tall. However, due to the nature of how well racers jump, they don't crash as often as a typical basher would, from what I have experienced. Racers also turn better, so it's easier to avoid obstacles. Again, this might not be what everyone has seen, but this is what I have experienced while driving both.