4WD 1/10 (1/8) SCT under $300.

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we don't take them to skate board parks. They are not allowed there. We prefer the dirt. Have you ever raced? At the races, you will walls, corners on pipes, other cars, and even get taco'ed by someone going full speed. It's not pretty out there. For bashing, we just went out, last weekend, and was launching them off dirt mounds that were about 3 feet tall. However, due to the nature of how well racers jump, they don't crash as often as a typical basher would, from what I have experienced. Racers also turn better, so it's easier to avoid obstacles. Again, this might not be what everyone has seen, but this is what I have experienced while driving both.
I raced for years, starting with Tamiya buggies in the mid eighties, and then got out of it about 6 years ago, when everything went to carpet around here. As for not crashing as much, come watch some of the veteran racers around here. They crash worse than a kid with his first car at times. As for how we run, there is a saying in this area, go hard or go home. Even the 1:1 street stock drivers around here make their races look more like a demo derby than an actual race, and most of the RC racers here are either retired street stock guys, their family, or their kids.

Where is here? I live in upstate NY., and here, they are pretty lax about where we run, as long as we aren't running into people or pets.
 
I raced for years, starting with Tamiya buggies in the mid eighties, and then got out of it about 6 years ago, when everything went to carpet around here. As for not crashing as much, come watch some of the veteran racers around here. They crash worse than a kid with his first car at times. As for how we run, there is a saying in this area, go hard or go home. Even the 1:1 street stock drivers around here make their races look more like a demo derby than an actual race, and most of the RC racers here are either retired street stock guys, their family, or their kids.

Where is here? I live in upstate NY., and here, they are pretty lax about where we run, as long as we aren't running into people or pets.
I knew some people from upstate NY, not sure I would ever want to move there after the stories I had been told.
 
I saw that already. The driveshafts look almost the same as the Senton. They are definitely the same style at least, and look to be made of plastic, but, if that is the only part that may eventually need to be upgraded, i might be able to live with that. I also have an opportunity to buy back my old SC10 belt drive 4X4 (i was on Associated's site looking through parts availability for the SC10 when i saw the new one), but I'm not sure i want to give that to a 9 year old, since that truck was set up for racing, and is in no way a basher. At least then my personal collection of discontinued vehicles would be complete. I already have an Arrma Fury and a Racers Edge Pro2/Team C TS2. The SC10 was my first 4X4 SCT race truck, when i was still racing. I have to remember though, I'm doing this for a 9 year old, not me LOL.


A lot of these issues are why i ended up with my first DHK Hunter. I originally bought a V1 Granite, liked it at first, so then i bought a V1 Senton, but after a couple months of hard use, i had issues with driveshafts snapping, even after loosening the slipper, then had to replace the motor, then the servo, then the ESC twice, so then i put a mild BL set up in the Senton (3300KV motor, HW 60A ESC), and it seemed to just make the issues worse. Granted, both of them were Mega versions, but, it just seemed to be excessive, and then i kept getting told that to make it durable, it would be better to upgrade at least half of it to the BLX version, and even buying a complete BLX roller on eBay would have been another $200 plus per truck. At the price point the Mega is at, I'm not looking for bulletproof, but, when you start getting told that you need to upgrade some parts with Traxxas parts (originally, that was the only way to upgrade the plastic axles), since they are more durable, thats when i step back and rethink things. Even now i dont think Arrma makes a metal upgraded driveshaft, but, i also havent looked into it since i sold my Senton, and then gave my Granite to a 10 year old. I do have to replace parts in the rear diff, yet again, in the Granite, since one of the outputs is seized to the housing again, and its back to brushed and keeps doing that.

Every one always rags on Traxxas for having crap that always breaks, then will sit there and piss and moan about what they broke on their Arrma, literally the only difference between the models is the price you pay upfront for them and Traxxas has a much larger aftermarket. I've had better luck with my Traxxas Stampede than I ever did with either of my Arrmas, but I did pick it up of Facebook for $100.
 
I knew some people from upstate NY, not sure I would ever want to move there after the stories I had been told.
Most people who live here don't want to be here. I'm not originally from N.Y. though, and i constantly question why i haven't left yet. Maybe someday.
Every one always rags on Traxxas for having crap that always breaks, then will sit there and piss and moan about what they broke on their Arrma, literally the only difference between the models is the price you pay upfront for them and Traxxas has a much larger aftermarket. I've had better luck with my Traxxas Stampede than I ever did with either of my Arrmas, but I did pick it up of Facebook for $100.
I dont like Traxxas because of how petty they are, and how they do business, but i dont rag on them because i have never owned one, so any experiences i have had are all second hand from other people, either by hearing what they say about them, or by seeing what they go through. As for stuff breaking, it happens, so i dont really gripe when it does. I am more the, live and learn type. I try something, and if it doesn't work for me, i try something else. If someone asks, i will tell them my experiences, but that is about it. My only "gripe" if you will, is how everyone is going to plastic axles in their stuff. It isnt just Arrma, but ECX, and now even Associated are using that same style plastic axle idea, and who knows how many more. That is one area i would gladly pay a bit more to have metal axles, and i wouldnt mind upgrading to metal, if they didnt cost half near half the price for them for some vehicles. A perfect example are the ones for the Senton and Typhon, that are $65+ a pair.
 
I agree about the plastic driveshafts but also I've only ever broken them when my slipper was too tight, or when I had way too long of shocks on the rear. Also I know quite a few guys that run 4s and as long as your not trying to standing backflip or full throttle from stopped they hold up great. Also have talked to half a dozen people that paid the rediculas amount for the metal cvds and they didn't even hold up as long as the stock plastic. You have to remember these are not Tekno kits such as the MT410 and cost a hell of a lot less so there's going to be some cheaper parts. For example the MT410 is $450 but also still requires ESC, motor, body, tires, servo and Rx/tx so add another say $250+ so that's $700 for a really quality 1/10 MT. Considering Arrma rigs are half that, still great quality and a 2 year warranty it's hard to find a comparable rig in the price point that Arrma offers.
 
Associated just released the Pro4 SC10. Looks like a pretty good truck for $310.
 
I agree about the plastic driveshafts but also I've only ever broken them when my slipper was too tight, or when I had way too long of shocks on the rear. Also I know quite a few guys that run 4s and as long as your not trying to standing backflip or full throttle from stopped they hold up great. Also have talked to half a dozen people that paid the rediculas amount for the metal cvds and they didn't even hold up as long as the stock plastic. You have to remember these are not Tekno kits such as the MT410 and cost a hell of a lot less so there's going to be some cheaper parts. For example the MT410 is $450 but also still requires ESC, motor, body, tires, servo and Rx/tx so add another say $250+ so that's $700 for a really quality 1/10 MT. Considering Arrma rigs are half that, still great quality and a 2 year warranty it's hard to find a comparable rig in the price point that Arrma offers.
I loosened the slipper on my Granite at least 3 separate times when i upgraded it to a BL combo with a 3300KV motor and HW 10-BL-60, and still managed to break multiple shafts, as well as had diff issues multiple times. Mine was a V1 though, and a mega, not a BLX, but even after doing every recommendation i saw to make it not break the shafts, it did it yet again the other day. I drive it like i stole it though, which means full throttle starts, high jumps, hard landings, massive roll overs. I'm the type that i dont really like doing repairs as it is, so, when it does it multiple times on a vehicle i rarely run, i start to get annoyed with it. That truck might get run a couple days a month, whereas my DHK Hunter and my frankensteined Hunter get ran almost every other day, even in snow and severe cold, and I'm never having to fix them. Even my 22S doesn't seem to break no matter how hard i run it. I have ran my trucks in everything from 10 degree weather (my 22S is a blast to watch drift in snow, so is my Arrma Fury), with a foot of snow on the ground, to 90 degree days right after a pouring rain, and my Granite and Senton are the only two i have multiple issues with. Its why i got rid of the Senton i had, and bought a used Hunter. I have a Redcat Blackout XTE (i have video of that truck on YouTube, and i was literally hammering on it, and only broke a body mount and diff case) that we ran in a snowstorm for almost an hour, and didnt break anything, even jumping it off 6 foot snowbanks, with a 9 year old who can barely control it driving. I wish Losi wouldnt have discontinued the Tenacity SCT, or, that i would have at least picked one up before they werent available.
Associated just released the Pro4 SC10. Looks like a pretty good truck for $310.
I saw that. It looks like it might be a decent truck, but there are a couple things I'm not so keen on. I know a lot of guys like the adjustable links, but, i have never been a fan of them, going way back to the mid-80's. I actually prefer the fixed links, and since i dont race anymore, i dont see a need for them. Another issue i have is the plastic driveshafts, but that is because of issues i had with them with Arrma shafts.

I am considering a used V3 Senton mega, and just put in the typical BL combo i use on anything i build, either that or get a used V3 BLX, and then get the fixed links from the mega, but i am still leery of the plastic axles. I am also not a fan of adjustable motor mounts. Anymore, i prefer simple and easy. A few guys have also recommended race ready trucks, but, TBH since i have no interest in racing, i can't see a need for spending the price they ask for them. I say all the time, the only way i will get a truck that is perfect for me is to build it myself. I just need to figure out a starting point. This went way off subject in a way though, since i initially started this looking for vehicles for a 9 year, because he likes the look of my trucks, but i wont let him run anything except the Blackout, because of how fast they are, and he wants an SCT. I think for him i am just going to get a V3 Senton mega, since i can't find anything else comparable. I already have a brushed combo i can put in it when the stock ones dies, so that saves a bit. I know Arrma has the 2 year warranty, but i have never used a warranty on any of my vehicles for electronics, since i typically just put in my own known system that works.
 
Most people who live here don't want to be here. I'm not originally from N.Y. though, and i constantly question why i haven't left yet. Maybe someday.

I dont like Traxxas because of how petty they are, and how they do business, but i dont rag on them because i have never owned one, so any experiences i have had are all second hand from other people, either by hearing what they say about them, or by seeing what they go through. As for stuff breaking, it happens, so i dont really gripe when it does. I am more the, live and learn type. I try something, and if it doesn't work for me, i try something else. If someone asks, i will tell them my experiences, but that is about it. My only "gripe" if you will, is how everyone is going to plastic axles in their stuff. It isnt just Arrma, but ECX, and now even Associated are using that same style plastic axle idea, and who knows how many more. That is one area i would gladly pay a bit more to have metal axles, and i wouldnt mind upgrading to metal, if they didnt cost half near half the price for them for some vehicles. A perfect example are the ones for the Senton and Typhon, that are $65+ a pair.
Honestly, Traxxas isn't as bad as some people think. Yes, they have their problems (lawsuits on other companies, weak RTR servos, ESCs with weak internal BECs), but they also have their assets. Besides, no one is perfect. Traxxas has strong aftermarket support, and their customer service is also not bad. I've had a receiver die right out of the box, and when I gave Traxxas a phone call, the representative was respectful and straightforward. He agreed to send me a replacement. Another time, my servo went out and the representative again was friendly and straightforward. Shipping in my experience takes around 3-7 days, which is really isn't bad.

As for the plastic driveshafts, it's probably worth it to get metal driveshafts if you are going brushless (if they are available). Tekno and MIP make strong driveshafts for Traxxas's 4x4 vehicles. The Tekno driveshafts go for around $90 front and rear (includes plastic steering blocks, rear hub carriers, and larger bearings as well). The MIP driveshafts go for $140 front and rear (yes, much more expensive), but they are the most forgiving for lack of maintenance, and are almost indestructable.

If the only reason that you are avoiding Traxxas is how they do business (and not because of their cars), then I strongly suggest you put the Slash 4x4 into consideration. You can start off with a new Slash 4x4 roller from eBay (you can choose the electronics, tires, body, etc). Of course, you don't have to listen to me, as this is merely just a suggestion.

Hope this helps! :)
 
If the only reason that you are avoiding Traxxas is how they do business (and not because of their cars), then I strongly suggest you put the Slash 4x4 into consideration. You can start off with a new Slash 4x4 roller from eBay (you can choose the electronics, tires, body, etc). Of course, you don't have to listen to me, as this is merely just a suggestion.

Hope this helps! :)
That isnt the only reason i avoid them. There are quite a few people around here with them, who arent near as hard as i am on my stuff, that are almost constantly fixing and upgrading them, and, when guys brag about how many components they replaced with aftermarket parts within the first few months of ownership, and spend almost as much on those parts as they did for the vehicle, then i quickly lose interest. I have never had a vehicle where i used aftermarket anything, except my Arrma Fury, due to necessity ( i used an MIP ball diff from the HPI Blitz, only because the Fury diff isnt available anymore), but, with Traxxas, it almost seems required that to make them durable, RPM, MIP, and even Tekno parts are a must, and i am not one to spend money just for bragging rights. The only things i ever change that arent stock parts on any of my vehicles are tires, the receiver, so i can use my FS GT3B and 3C, and the motor and ESC when the stock ones die. Every other part, when i do have to replace it, is always with stock parts. Around where i live, the two biggest brands you see are Traxxas and JLB. I'm the only oddball that has Arrma, Losi, DHK and Redcat. Even the two local FB groups are all mainly Traxxas, JLB, or Redcat, but only for crawlers, and 90% of the race vehicles here are Traxxas spec Slash. The only Team Associated i have ever seen on a track within 100 miles of me when i was still racing was my old SC10 belt drive, the rest were almost all Traxxas. I also dont like how Traxxas has made their vehicles proprietary, so that you are pretty much forced to only buy Traxxas electronics and batteries, or replace all the electronics right off the bat.

EDIT: another thing that put me off them was when guys were saying how they would take them completely apart and soak them in WD40 just to make the parts more flexible and durable. I'm not spending that much time on any RC i own.
 
That isnt the only reason i avoid them. There are quite a few people around here with them, who arent near as hard as i am on my stuff, that are almost constantly fixing and upgrading them, and, when guys brag about how many components they replaced with aftermarket parts within the first few months of ownership, and spend almost as much on those parts as they did for the vehicle, then i quickly lose interest. I have never had a vehicle where i used aftermarket anything, except my Arrma Fury, due to necessity ( i used an MIP ball diff from the HPI Blitz, only because the Fury diff isnt available anymore), but, with Traxxas, it almost seems required that to make them durable, RPM, MIP, and even Tekno parts are a must, and i am not one to spend money just for bragging rights. The only things i ever change that arent stock parts on any of my vehicles are tires, the receiver, so i can use my FS GT3B and 3C, and the motor and ESC when the stock ones die. Every other part, when i do have to replace it, is always with stock parts. Around where i live, the two biggest brands you see are Traxxas and JLB. I'm the only oddball that has Arrma, Losi, DHK and Redcat. Even the two local FB groups are all mainly Traxxas, JLB, or Redcat, but only for crawlers, and 90% of the race vehicles here are Traxxas spec Slash. The only Team Associated i have ever seen on a track within 100 miles of me when i was still racing was my old SC10 belt drive, the rest were almost all Traxxas. I also dont like how Traxxas has made their vehicles proprietary, so that you are pretty much forced to only buy Traxxas electronics and batteries, or replace all the electronics right off the bat.

EDIT: another thing that put me off them was when guys were saying how they would take them completely apart and soak them in WD40 just to make the parts more flexible and durable. I'm not spending that much time on any RC i own.

Then don't get an Arrma if you don't like to do upgrades, remember they require tons of upgrades too.
 
Then don't get an Arrma if you don't like to do upgrades, remember they require tons of upgrades too.
I didnt know there were that many upgrades for the lower priced stuff. I know the 4S and up stuff need upgrades, but, i dont own anything that expensive. The fastest vehicles i own are a stock 3S capable Losi 22S, and my 3S capable Hunter. When i say upgrades, I'm not talking about swapping the motor and ESC, I'm talking about things like having to buy aftermarket parts needlessly, for when, not if, something breaks. I own two Arrma's, a V1 Granite 4X4, and a discontinued Fury, and, except for the necessary diff swap in the Fury, everything else on that truck is stock, original parts. The Granite is all stock, and, i broke a lower control arm hitting a tree, the rear diff has an issue with binding up, and it keeps breaking rear axles, and every time i have to replace something on it, i get stock parts from HH. I wont own any 4S and up vehicle, because they are extremely expensive, and always seem to need expensive aftermarket parts to make them somewhat durable. I may like messing with my RC's, but I'm not into them that much where i am willing to throw that kind of money into them. If i ever somehow got a 4S vehicle, i would probably never, or very rarely, break it, since i wouldn't run anything bigger than the 3S batteries i have in it. 60+ MPH RC's honestly dont interest me at all.
 
I am looking for recommendations on 4WD SCT's, but, i am looking for 1/8TH scale based trucks, which leaves out the Redcat Blackout SC, and similar sized vehicles. So far, the only ones i have found are the Arrma Senton (which, after the issues i have had with the two V1 Senton's i had and the V1 Granite i have, I am leaning away from), the Traxxas Slash, which, due to personal reason's, i wont own, or the DHK Hobby Hunter (of which i already have 2, so i'm looking for something else). I am looking at the under $300 range, and definitely brushed, unless i find a really good BL deal.
If you are looking at the Senton, Redcat and Slash they are 1/10 scale. I don't know if you will find a good 1/8 Scale for under $300.

I know you said no Traxxas Slash, but for what it's worth it's a good platform. Buying Traxxas is like getting a Toyota. I can go to my local hobby shop and get just about any part I need in 10 min for the same price at Amain and I'm up and running that day. Also if you go with the 2wd Brushed it's only $189.

The Arma Sentom is also popular but not nearly the parts base as the Traxxas. Arma seems to reuse and scale their designs alot, which means if one breaks they all break. i.e. they are motivated to make it right.

Another one is the Team Associated Pro4 SC10. TA does a lot of racing stuff, I'm not sure about toughness.

I would check out Amain for some options. They are well stocked.
 
If you are looking at the Senton, Redcat and Slash they are 1/10 scale. I don't know if you will find a good 1/8 Scale for under $300.

I know you said no Traxxas Slash, but for what it's worth it's a good platform. Buying Traxxas is like getting a Toyota. I can go to my local hobby shop and get just about any part I need in 10 min for the same price at Amain and I'm up and running that day. Also if you go with the 2wd Brushed it's only $189.

The Arma Sentom is also popular but not nearly the parts base as the Traxxas. Arma seems to reuse and scale their designs alot, which means if one breaks they all break. i.e. they are motivated to make it right.

Another one is the Team Associated Pro4 SC10. TA does a lot of racing stuff, I'm not sure about toughness.

I would check out Amain for some options. They are well stocked.
When it comes to 1/10TH SCT's, depending on the company, they are either 1/8TH based (like the Senton, Losi 22S, Associated SC10 and ProSC10), or, they are the smaller 1/10TH sized, like the Redcat Blackout SC. If you go up a few posts, you will see why i wont even consider anything Traxxas. One thing i will add to my previous comments though. Parts availability doesn't mean anything when you have to order everything online anyway, because the nearest LHS is 60+ miles away, and is very small. The nearest decent hobby shop to me is roughly 2.5 hours away, so everything RC related (parts and vehicles) i do is online. After spending a ton of time on this though, i have decided i am just going to get a used V3 mega Senton, and add my own electronics. It is the closest thing to what i am actually looking for, whether it be for him or me. The Associated Pro4 SC10 would be nice, but, i can't afford 2 vehicles, new or used this year. Team associated has always been my go to for SCT racing, going back more than 10 years, so i am very familiar with them.
 
Obviously Senton is good value for money but you are not keen , you don’t want Traxxas ,
Have you looked into a Losi Tenacity Method?
4x4 SCT Brushed version?‍♂️
 
You not keen on Arrma from having issues with them before, you don’t want a Traxxas either ,
Have you considered a Losi tenacity Method sct.
brushed,
4x4. ?‍♂️
 
You not keen on Arrma from having issues with them before, you don’t want a Traxxas either ,
Have you considered a Losi tenacity Method sct.
brushed,
4x4. ?‍♂️
Actually i have, but, i can't find anyplace to get them other than in store, and for me to get them in store isn't feasible. I haven't seen any used.
 
That Pro4 SC10 is just a re-badged Helion RC.

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As far as 1/8 scale based SCTs...pickings are slim. Tekno RC will be your best bet.
 
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