Who was wrenching today??? What did you do??

[Lostinthewoods86]

I'd try and get into that programming.
I think thats the cheap place before swap-testing gear.
Maybe someone else knows your electronics better than I too???

I’m fixing up this diff issue after dinner and will probably try to run in again tomorrow and see what happens. Can’t get my laptop til Monday.

Just weird this just started this first run after it ran the balance cord through the spur last weekend

 

[332_RC]

Off-set, off phase drive shafts... cool!!

On this rig- yep. I'm planning another that would require the phased rear driveshaft

 

[CertifiedMike]

On this rig- yep. I'm planning another that would require the phased rear driveshaft

It looks as though some amount of R&D went into the design. I really like how it looks too. Just raw, industrial clean! I hope it drives as as well!!!

 

[islandlife]

designed and printed some mounts/spacers to run universal mounts on my LMT. Working on mounting the jconcepts mortician body without the cage. The body is a touch smaller than the lmt gravedigger body, so some lexan “modifications” are needed to get the body sitting as low as i want it.

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

I'm 1 important, discontinued, not for sale even though they rereleased like 69 versions of the car, part away from a complete chassis https://www2.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/6624/

 

[Littlemotor]

I'm 1 important, discontinued, not for sale even though they rereleased like 69 versions of the car, part away from a complete chassis https://www2.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/6624/

View attachment 209414

Ask, and ye shall receiver sir.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225972611838

 

[WickedFog]

@Lostinthewoods86
I would first reset the ESC and rebind everything and go through the calibration again. Always the first step, and often fixes things. See if that fixes it. If not, I would tear into the truck and find out if there is something binding, creating extra drag on the motor. If you have a bind, it will pull more amperage from the battery, causing more voltage drop than normal, and triggering LVC sooner.

Hopefully you didn't fry that ESC.

One way you can test this is take the pinion off. Run the motor sans pinion and see if it still does it. If not, start tearing things down.

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

@Lostinthewoods86
I would first reset the ESC and rebind everything and go through the calibration again. Always the first step, and often fixes things. See if that fixes it. If not, I would tear into the truck and find out if there is something binding, creating extra drag on the motor. If you have a bind, it will pull more amperage from the battery, causing more voltage drop than normal, and triggering LVC sooner.

Hopefully you didn't fry that ESC.

One way you can test this is take the pinion off. Run the motor sans pinion and see if it still does it. If not, start tearing things down.

Thanks wicked! I didn’t even think to try to recalibrate it. I’ll do that after I get it back together. The only thing I found was that rear diff cup loose and it was hitting the receiver box.

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

Ask, and ye shall receiver sir.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225972611838

View attachment 209431

like $20 id pay but not be happy about it. currently $33.99, that's a hard pass.

 

[Littlemotor]

like $20 id pay but not be happy about it. currently $33.99, that's a hard pass.

So make an offer… Sounded like you needed it… No problem bud.

 

[WickedFog]

Thanks wicked! I didn’t even think to try to recalibrate it. I’ll do that after I get it back together. The only thing I found was that rear diff cup loose and it was hitting the receiver box.

My thoughts are, what caused the cup to loosen? I am sure you loctited it. First sign there might be an issue when things fail like that. Maybe it got hot. Maybe some crud got between the cup and Rx box and heated things up long enough to loosen the loctite.

It doesn't have that much run time on it, so I would be surprised if it had a binding issue in the drivetrain somewhere. But you can use your temp gun on areas of the drivetrain to find problem spots too. Check the diff housings where the cups are. Check the axle carriers at the wheel side of the dogbones. See if any of those areas are hotter than the others. Of course, it has to run long enough to get things hot first

 

[Littlemotor]

My thoughts are, what caused the cup to loosen? I am sure you loctited it. First sign there might be an issue when things fail like that. Maybe it got hot. Maybe some crud got between the cup and Rx box and heated things up long enough to loosen the loctite.

It doesn't have that much run time on it, so I would be surprised if it had a binding issue in the drivetrain somewhere. But you can use your temp gun on areas of the drivetrain to find problem spots too. Check the diff housings where the cups are. Check the axle carriers at the wheel side of the dogbones. See if any of those areas are hotter than the others. Of course, it has to run long enough to get things hot first

Being the outdrive is hardened steel, and not anodized aluminum; they get a fair “machine oil treatment” much the same as hardware does.. When it’s not cut/removed with Brakekleen, Acetone, etc., the set screw doesn’t make it long before backing out as that particular part see’s more repeated instantaneous torque than a lot of other parts throughout the vehicle. Not all threadlockers are created equal.

 

[WickedFog]

Being the outdrive is hardened steel, and not anodized aluminum; they get a fair “machine oil treatment” much the same as hardware does.. When it’s not cut/removed with Brakekleen, Acetone, etc., the set screw doesn’t make it long before backing out as that particular part see’s more repeated instantaneous torque than a lot of other parts throughout the vehicle. Not all threadlockers are created equal.

I am just hoping the battery balance lead shorting out didn't damage that beautiful ESC.

 

[Littlemotor]

I am just hoping the battery balance lead shorting out didn't damage that beautiful ESC.

No doubt. All things being equal-it’s definitely a possibility.. -I believe it’s a small one (considering it works at all), but a possibility none the less..

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Well I thought I had it…got the cups tightened back up, recalibrated it, everything seems smooth, the motor is barely warm (didn’t bring temp gun but was barely warm to the touch). Made a couple full speed runs and it was good, went to take it to the pasture where the jump is and it stopped on the way. Put battery on charger and all cells at 4.0 volts

 

[WickedFog]

No doubt. All things being equal-it’s definitely a possibility.. -I believe it’s a small one (considering it works at all), but a possibility none the less..

Castle ESC's have data logging. I wonder what it might show in there @Lostinthewoods86

 

[WickedFog]

Try running it on the bench, with a lipo alarm plugged in. Watch it and see what the voltages of each cell are doing when you give it some throttle. If each cell is staying above your LVC, you might have burned up, or severly weakened a circuit in the ESC.

 

[rc_costum_nord]

Too many projects at the moment...

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Castle ESC's have data logging. I wonder what it might show in there @Lostinthewoods86

That’s my next step, I gotta wait til tomorrow though to bring my laptop home.

I’m pretty sure the lvc is set pretty high on it,
because before after a full run the battery would basically be at storage voltage, sometimes it wouldn’t even do storage charge at all. But it was never a problem before either, it always ran as long as our other trucks.

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Try running it on the bench, with a lipo alarm plugged in. Watch it and see what the voltages of each cell are doing when you give it some throttle. If each cell is staying above your LVC, you might have burned up, or severly weakened a circuit in the ESC.

I’d have to get one