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Who was wrenching today??? What did you do??

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Painted the body for ma Sketer 4s on 6s

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Is this the thing that people usually do on trucks? On the two truck bodies I’ve painted (JCon Ford Rangers), I’ve masked off and then blacked out the beds, because I assumed that was The Thing To Do.
Not the norm, but it does look really cool on some rigs.
 
Thanks Doom, I’ll have to give it a shot the next time I paint a truck body… I’ll probably shine the Rustler up next spring.

Today, I did a bunch of boring maintenance on my AE B6.4… but I also had the chance to work on converting a 3-wire servo to drive the motor and listen to the position sensor on a Kyosho Mini-Z, for a build that I’m doing - anyone interested is welcome to read about it in my build thread!
 
Is this the thing that people usually do on trucks? On the two truck bodies I’ve painted (JCon Ford Rangers), I’ve masked off and then blacked out the beds, because I assumed that was The Thing To Do.
It’s kinda a @Thomas P thing.. 😉🤙
 
Wrenched on the rustler today. Did a longer screw and a nut for the shock tower where it goes into the bulk head since while racing the other week, the screws I had in which were pretty short, they would back out, and cause me to loose steering as when the screw backs out, it hits the bellcrank and won't let it do a full rotation. So I fixed that. Fixed up some.wiring, removed the receiver box top so I can actually plug in my transponder. I just gotta think where to mount it.

I also put the ST tires on the slash. Looks a lot more meaner and aggressive.
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I like the Rustler. If you run an aluminum bulkhead it will add weight to the front of the truck helping it corner. A Castle Mamba X will fit in the side of your chassis lowering your CG also helping in the corners. And if you cut off the body mount from the top of the rear shock tower and use velcro on the sides of the chassis instead, your body will last a 100 times longer. The 2wd Rustler was my truck of choice for a long time.
 
No photos from me for now but Christ alive, wrenching on my B6.4 is going to put me into an early grave. Running one car but also trying to do a Really Good Job of it is flat-out exhausting.

Since I last posted (and I should really talk about this in my build thread for the car), the following things have happened:
  • I redid the layout on the Exotek chassis to run the longitudinal battery layout. Switched to an 80a Hobbywing ESC that I had laying around to cut weight, and the car down to minimum weight, even with a 600mah G*ns Ace battery in, but I was struggling big time to get cooling right, because I...
  • Tried to rebuild my 21.5t Tekin Redline Gen 4 Spec-R - I didn't like that one of the eyes was 2 degrees off from the others, so I tried to put in a new sensor board (and threw in some hybrid ceramics while I was at it) - and somehow the timing is now worse on both the new board and the old board, it's like 5 degrees out???? (Now that I'm thinking about it - maybe the new bearings messed with the rotor position a little, and now my shims are wrong? I don't know, I have no idea.)
  • So I switched back to my Reds 21.5t motor, which read out better timing data but runs about 40 degrees hotter (what the hell). The longitudinal battery layout was forcing me to run 2 fans in order to get acceptable cooling, so I decided to think really hard about how to improve my cooling.
  • Wrenched on the car for hours at the club until the boys convinced me that I was going to be quicker on the stock AE B6.4 chassis, so I picked one up and we slapped it together - and right away, my consistency shot up like a rocket. Guess the Exotek is not the move.
  • My club started racing on Monday nights, and my schedule allows me to be there every single Monday - but 99% of the crowd that shows up is running 17.5t, so I said "f it" and grabbed a gently-used R1 Wurks 17.5t with titanium screws, a hand-picked rotor, and aligned sensors.
  • The car is now a howling menace. About 20 grams over minimum weight following a few other changes.
  • That stupid Broods magnesium motor plate is about as stiff as pool noodle, so I'm back to the stock motor plate.
  • I ate my fancy RCSS shaved idler gear after catching the front of the car wrong on the back edge of a tabletop that was about 1/2" taller than the "table" portion, so I get to rip the transmission case out today and put a stock idler gear back in. I picked up a carbon fiber transmission case, so that's going on, too.
  • Realized that my ride height was way too low, so bumped it back up to a sane number (13mm front/rear).
For all of this toil and expense? I ran a qualifier last Monday at 95% consistency and qualified into the A-main for the first time - I've either never made it, or been in a small class with no B-main. It's coming together, and it's coming together fast.
 
My daughter's Tekky MT
Rear ring and input gears, front/rear a-arms, and a rear gearbox. Also installed an Allracing rear gear cover (junk bin find).

If she's going to drive like Duperbash then she needs to learn to work on her own truck. She's the Princess so that's not going to happen.

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My daughter's Tekky MT
Rear ring and input gears, front/rear a-arms, and a rear gearbox. Also installed an Allracing rear gear cover (junk bin find).

If she's going to drive like Duperbash then she needs to learn to work on her own truck. She's the Princess so that's not going to happen.

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Its great she drives RC's. I'll be happy if my daughter had any interest in the hobby or in anything I do to be honest. I'm jealous your daughter has a Tekky too. 👌
 
The truck is a hand me down, I gutted my ET48 and SCT to build it. I had moved on to 6s so the trucks were just sitting there, plus she is THE PRINCESS.
I'd go buy my daughter an RC right now if it ment she'd play with me. Mind you, she does have a WLtoys 959b but she doesn't play with it.
 
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