When an engine dies, what do you do

[echelon6]

Is it as simple as buying a new piston/sleeve pack and installing it? Or is there something I'm missing?

Another question is regarding all this mention about getting 6-8 gallons per engine lifetime is considered good, is this referring to the time it takes before you need to replace the sleeve/piston? or the whole engine?

Lastly what is a mill? Thanks

 

[GrudgE]

Mill is another term for the engine. 6-8 gallons is in reference to the piston and sleeve. The crank case should last a long time as long as you don't damage it do to blown bearings or connecting rod.

 

[NCNitro]

First off I would ask which engine. Some engines are cheaper to just buy a new engine than to replace the piston and sleeve. For example, Picco pistons and sleeves are very expensive. If you get 6-8 gallons, on it, when rebuilding it you should replace not only the piston and sleeve, but the bearings as well. And if there is any wear on the crank that may need to be replaced too. So by the time you add all these parts together in many cases you are withing a few dollars of a new mill anyway.

 

[echelon6]

Well I run a stock HPI RS4 evo 3+ and the stock engine is the HPI Nitro Star 3.0 which is a .18

Wondering whether its worth it to get a new mill? maybe a more popular and proven engine like an OS? or just replace my piston / sleeve when the inevitable dying occurs?

 

[NCNitro]

With that particular engine, once it dies I would just throw an OS .18 in it.

 

[echelon6]

I've generally been reading heaps of positive threads on OS engines, what's the deal with them?

I'm specifically looking for economy, i.e. engines which have cheap sleeve/piston parts and generally last long with reasonable care (not into power yet, given my subpar driving skills)

 

[rcnut143]

I've got an O.S. .18 in my RS4 3 and i don't have to kind of space to run it WOT. Tons of power, easy to tune and keep tuned. Treat them well and they will last forever. Cheap to buy new. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=7
"Fits Kyosho® Inferno TR-15 Stadium Force3, DuraTrax® Evaders, Tamiya Terra Crusher and HPI Nitro RS4 3 Series." Literally dropped right into mine. Piston and Sleeve $60 https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OSMG4828

 

[echelon6]

Is $60 for a piston/sleeve considered expensive?

I saw some duratrax piston/sleeve at Tower for $25 and it fits OS 0.15 engines

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=duratrax+os+piston&search=Go

 

[HeartBreak]

Stay away from that Duratrax sleeve set. I've seen it lose complete compression in less than a tank of fuel.

 

[echelon6]

Wow ok

So what's the best engine - economy wise then?

 

[HeartBreak]

Hands down, the OS CV-R series. I had an older CV.12, which had an ABN (Alum/brass/nickel) sleeve, and that thing lasted forever. It actually wore the piston wristpin retainers (teflon thumbtack lookin things) out before it lost compression.

I've never had an OS engine outright grenade on me. They just run and run if you tune them right.

The reason I said to stay away from the Duratrax sleeve kit is they plated it with a real thin coating of chrome, and on top of that, skimped on the hardening process (or used a real soft piston; probably both).

You can probably find a .12 CV-R (which will have more power than you can imagine) for around $90 or so. I know you can get the CV-R .18 for about $130 if you shop around.

 

[Scrogg]

You can always send off the piston and sleeve to be repinched for around 20 bucks.
Check the bearings for slop while everything is apart.
A pinched sleeve will usually go for another 2-3 gallons.

 

[olds97_lss]

You can always send off the piston and sleeve to be repinched for around 20 bucks.
Check the bearings for slop while everything is apart.
A pinched sleeve will usually go for another 2-3 gallons.

For many engines, this is a good option. It's what I do. Unless there is significant damage to the piston/sleeve/con-rod, a pinch is my only option. If there is damage, well, then I generally lean towards a new engine anyway. Damage such as sleeve scarring, piston skirt crumbling, con-rod slop... Like suggested earlier, by the time you replace the piston/sleeve/con-rod, your at $100 or relatively close. Then your stuck with an old OWB and carb, which also fail over time due to wear.

I had an OS15CV-R(X) make it beyond 12 gallons and an OS21RG make it to 10 or so before I had it pinched. I've run another 4 on the pinched OS and it still has good compression.

OS's entry level engines (CV-R) are typically not super high powered or high RPM engines, but they are built really well to take the abuse a person newer to the hobby will give it. They also hold a tune all day long and are easy to tune with a wide margin for error.

If the HPI engine you have still has good bearings and no slop in the conrod when it wears out on you, I'd pinch it or get the OS18.

 

[echelon6]

Never heard of this pinch process, who does it for you and what does it involve physically?

 

[MrClean]

Never heard of this pinch process, who does it for you and what does it involve physically?

I've seen a lot of people recommend this company for redoing the sleeves http://www.rayaracing.com/. I'm not sure how it is actually done mechanically, but they use your piston and 'resize' the sleeve so it has similar pinch as it did when new. Obviously this isn't a new piston or sleeve so it won't get the same longevity, but it's very reasonable and worth it if it means a few more gallons out of the motor. Check out the site, I think they might show how the process works.

 

[olds97_lss]

Yep. Ray does a nice job. Check out my most recent pinch service thread here:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56420&highlight=rayaracing

 

[echelon6]

Wow very nice indeed! this would make running costs of nitro much lower and sustainable as well!