What are the best possible upgrades for the scx24?

[Civillain]

What are the best possible upgrades for the scx24? I have an scx24 c10 and I want to make it unstoppable, do the hardest lines ungodly easily. Unlimited budget. Awhile ago I saw someone post setups in terms of price and capabilities 1-3, He said that a 4th stage would be coming. Let's hear it. Update: Pretty sure it was @Pat_ranch

 

[Tunedfrog]

Welcome in @Civillain , the very first thing I would buy is a Furitek Stinger brushless system. Expensive but well worth it. I would also purchase brass parts like wheel weights and things like that. Any extra weight down below is a huge plus. I also use long suspension links and long travel shocks.
As far as tires, I like the RC4WD Mudslingers but everybody has their favorites.
Several guys here build and run 1/24s and they will have lots of suggestions for you.

 

[Doom!]

@Civillain Welcome aboard.

@Tunedpipe pretty much covered the basics. Getting your center of gravity down low and some good grippy tires are the most important. A ton more you can do to these. Take a gender through the forum, lots of good info.

 

[Pat_ranch]

I think I ended up with around $350 into the Taco Truk...
I had to put stuff on hold for a minute (got in a fight), but I'll be getting back to the builds soon

 

[Civillain]

I think I ended up with around $350 into the Taco Truk...
I had to put stuff on hold for a minute (got in a fight), but I'll be getting back to the builds soon

Thanks! I can't seem to find the thread where you listed all of the parts though.

@Civillain Welcome aboard.

@Tunedpipe pretty much covered the basics. Getting your center of gravity down low and some good grippy tires are the most important. A ton more you can do to these. Take a gender through the forum, lots of good info.

Thanks!

Welcome in @Civillain , the very first thing I would buy is a Furitek Stinger brushless system. Expensive but well worth it. I would also purchase brass parts like wheel weights and things like that. Any extra weight down below is a huge plus. I also use long suspension links and long travel shocks.
As far as tires, I like the RC4WD Mudslingers but everybody has their favorites.
Several guys here build and run 1/24s and they will have lots of suggestions for you.

Thanks!

 

[Doom!]

Browse through these two threads.

Info and More Info

 

[WickedFog]

The biggest downfalls on my first two 24's has been a weak motor and weak servo. Once I put the Mudslingers on the Deadbolt, the motor quickly began to lose power. And the steering servo on the C10 was really weak from the factory.

I have yet to put a motor in Deadbox, but after trying a couple different servos, I found the Ecopower 827 to be the best performer of the cheaper ones. You need the Hot Racing mount for it, which they sell two versions of. You need this one - HRASXTF24M01.

My plan is to put the Furitek Stinger in anything with bigger tires. My C10 has smaller tires for now, and we have the PNRacing motor, motor mount, and gearset going in it.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Other than the pricey Furitek system, everything else is reasonably priced. Fun to work on and can be driven anywhere. The wife and I always have them packed in the camper when we head out.
My Deadbolt still has the stock motor and I run the Mudslingers but haven't ran it enough to burn it up yet. I will replace it with a Furitek system regardless. The C10 will also remain stock. The wife drives that one and she doesn't care what's in it.

 

[WickedFog]

Other than the pricey Furitek system, everything else is reasonably priced. Fun to work on and can be driven anywhere. The wife and I always have them packed in the camper when we head out.
My Deadbolt still has the stock motor and I run the Mudslingers but haven't ran it enough to burn it up yet. I will replace it with a Furitek system regardless. The C10 will also remain stock. The wife drives that one and she doesn't care what's in it.

I think our Deadbolt motor got overheated when Breydon's little buddy took it out to climb the hill we had outside.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I wouldn't exactly call the stock motors top of the line anyways. Like I mentioned before, the wife's C10 I will leave stock until the motor burns up.
My train table has been turned into a crawler table with lots of obstacles so I'm sure it won't be long before it burns up.
I'll post a bunch of pics as soon as I get some trees and vegetation planted.

 

[WickedFog]

Our C10 motor is still going strong. It hasn't been ran very much though, especially since I started modding it.

 

[Doom!]

I haven't killed a motor yet, just a servo. I have spares of both, just in case.

 

[Pat_ranch]

I got almost a year from the stock motor in the yeller jeep, but it's ded now. I'm trying one of mofo's brushless motors as a replacement. The stock motor in my first 24 lasted a few months. The barrage replacement lasted another 6-8 months. The surpass outrunner has been going stronk af for almost a year and a half now.
I think I run these little dudes harder than most...

 

[WickedFog]

I think I ended up with around $350 into the Taco Truk...
I had to put stuff on hold for a minute (got in a fight), but I'll be getting back to the builds soon

I hope you won the fight

Let us know how that mofo motor goes.

 

[Pat_ranch]

I hope you won the fight

Let us know how that mofo motor goes.

I did
F*ck cancer

 

[Tunedfrog]

Glad to hear you beat the C word.

 

[DeepLCG]

First thing, add brass to the front wheels and replace the steering servo and servo mount. Next, cut away any part of the body that get's hung up and flip the front and rear bumpers on the C10, for much better clearance. You are only $30 in and have a truck that is 30% more capable. $10/10% ;-) If you have the C10, the tires are pretty good already, so might just soak in WD40 to break down the rubber a bit and make them more sticky. The Jeep needs new tires. For some reason, the compound is much less sticky on them. Seriously, can't beat Hyrax Predator compound 1.0's. Same exact tires used on 1/10 comp rigs, in mini size. Tip... cut away some of the foam in the front tires for more squish / better performance. Far as the stock motor, if you are happy with the performance you can just remove the sticker. This will allow it to radiate heat build up, which will keep it from burning out. You can also add a mini heat sync, if you are serious about the health of the stock parts. Most of the rigs I lend out to friends and family, have only had these mods done, with the brushed motor upgrade. Of course, you can go crazy too. I have a highly modified gspeed brushless LCG belly dragger SCX24 with all the bells and whistles that has over 1k in it. It is awesome and can out crawl anything its size, but not for everybody. Best thing about the SCX24s is the versatility. You can take it as little, or as far as you want to go.