Upgrades for axial scx24

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stemy

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Hello all, I just ordered my first crawler. Axial scx24. What are the must do upgrades for it. Shocks wheel weights?
 
Tires are the best upgrade as the stock ones are pretty cheap. My favorites are the 1.0 Mudslingers from RC4WD. Here is my current setup with all stock parts, a homemade 4 link front end conversion, RC4WD Stamped Steel rins, and RC4WD Mudslingers 1.0 tires.
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I've heard people say that because the motor is so small, wheel weights kill the motor.
 
Hello all, I just ordered my first crawler. Axial scx24. What are the must do upgrades for it. Shocks wheel weights?
Metal rims with bead lock and a super soft rubber tire in what ever size you need. Then take the foam out or trim it so you have some give there for more traction.
 
I've heard people say that because the motor is so small, wheel weights kill the motor.
I've had mine on all 4 wheels, on my Deadbolt, for awhile now with no issues. They work great, and I'm still using stock tires. So, I would definitely recommend brass wheel weights. Plus, a new motor will only cost about $10.
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I've had mine on all 4 wheels, on my Deadbolt, for awhile now with no issues. They work great, and I'm still using stock tires. So, I would definitely recommend brass wheel weights. Plus, a new motor will only cost about $10.
View attachment 128828
I have been doing some stuff where the wheels are pressed up against rocks so that's probably why I thought so.
 
I've got the wheel weights in both of my Deadbolts with no problems so far. It does help keep them better planted. :thumbs-up:
 
I have been doing some stuff where the wheels are pressed up against rocks so that's probably why I thought so.
I have a couple if rugs that I use weights. I just use thick solder and wrap it around amfee times then alittle glue from a glue gun. One of mine is a wpl and at first it was running a 170 I think and it worked just fine.
 
I've had mine on all 4 wheels, on my Deadbolt, for awhile now with no issues. They work great, and I'm still using stock tires. So, I would definitely recommend brass wheel weights. Plus, a new motor will only cost about $10.
View attachment 128828

I have a couple if rugs that I use weights. I just use thick solder and wrap it around amfee times then alittle glue from a glue gun. One of mine is a wpl and at first it was running a 170 I think and it worked just fine.
Sorry for the typos. My phone is not smart anymore and I'm shure it does not like me.
 
Sorry for the typos. My phone is not smart anymore and I'm shure it does not like me.
🤣 sometimes I feel like I spend more time fixing what auto correct "corrects" than I do typing the message. The good news is, I am becoming fluent in autocorrect, and understood your message perfectly. :)
 
Level 1-
Coda hexes, front brass diff cover, brass knuckles, and some treal (or rc4wd) wheels and rc4wd rock locks. Does pretty much every line with some difficulty. Motor & esc are full factory, no major mods. Factory rails, very minor body trimming, ebay skids, and still running factory shocks with rear springs (front shocks running full droop, no springs). Friends are impressed with your driving skills.
20210511_195144.jpg

Level 2-
Gspeed rails, Barrage motor, steel wheels, brass hexes & knuckles, brass diff covers, maybe a steel skid, some bent plastic links, full droop- no springs on factory shocks (because nothing out there has actually improved performance yet, despite the fanbois' claims), fenderless body, some kustomizing with magnets for mounts, factory rx/tx- keeping it brushed. Pulls lines that amaze you and your friends. Friends start using words like "magic"
20210704_234934.jpg

Level 3- Taco Truk
Gspeed rails, shapeways motor mount, 2204 outrunner, Furitek esc (literally nothing like it for low speed control. It's life changing), bent links, brass knuckles, hexes, diff covers, aluminum tranny mount/skid, steel wheels, full droop front/sprung rear factory shocks (keeps forward pressure on steep break overs), slingers, ebay printed sliders, lihv batteries from rdq, magnets and hinge for body mounts, emax servo (soon to be a reefs), and some hacking/fabrication to make it all fit and play well together. Friends start using words like "cheating" and "f*ck you". Motor has enough torque to fold chassis in half when you bind it up on the servo horn (hence the name- taco truk). Makes ridiculous lines look easy. Rear wing optional... (it was a joke. It's not there anymore). Truk starts developing a following of its own. People come to Montana from Arizona to see it, (That actually happened...) makes @Doom! And others from another forum smile when they see it.
20210520_223201.jpg

Next level still in development...
 
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🤣 sometimes I feel like I spend more time fixing what auto correct "corrects" than I do typing the message. The good news is, I am becoming fluent in autocorrect, and understood your message perfectly. :)
Awsome thanks. You seem to be one of the few good people out there since that kind of person is rarely heard of anymore.
 
Level 1-
Coda hexes, front brass diff cover, brass knuckles, and some treal (or rc4wd) wheels and rc4wd rock locks. Does pretty much every line with some difficulty. Motor & esc are full factory, no major mods. Factory rails, very minor body trimming, ebay skids, and still running factory shocks with rear springs (front shocks running full droop, no springs). Friends are impressed with your driving skills.
View attachment 129106
Level 2-
Gspeed rails, Barrage motor, steel wheels, brass hexes & knuckles, brass diff covers, maybe a steel skid, some bent plastic links, full droop- no springs on factory shocks (because nothing out there has actually improved performance yet, despite the fanbois' claims), fenderless body, some kustomizing with magnets for mounts, factory rx/tx- keeping it brushed. Pulls lines that amaze you and your friends. Friends start using words like "magic"
View attachment 129108
Level 3- Taco Truk
Gspeed rails, shapeways motor mount, 2204 outrunner, Furitek esc (literally nothing like it for low speed control. It's life changing), bent links, brass knuckles, hexes, diff covers, aluminum tranny mount/skid, steel wheels, full droop front/sprung rear factory shocks (keeps forward pressure on steep break overs), slingers, ebay printed sliders, lihv batteries from rdq, magnets and hinge for body mounts, emax servo (soon to be a reefs), and some hacking/fabrication to make it all fit and play well together. Friends start using words like "cheating" and "f*ck you". Motor has enough torque to fold chassis in half when you bind it up on the servo horn (hence the name- taco truk). Makes ridiculous lines look easy. Rear wing optional... (it was a joke. It's not there anymore). Truk starts developing a following of its own. People come to Montana from Arizona to see it, (That actually happened...) makes @Doom! And others from another forum smile when they see it.
View attachment 129107
Next level still in development...
Sounds sweet! What tires do you like?
 
Sounds sweet! What tires do you like?
I like all the rc4wd tires except for the wranglers. The rock lox have been awesome for smaller/lighter trucks, and the slingers rule if you can get your center of gravity low enough (they're pretty tall). I just got a set of the injora hyrax clones, but haven't run them enough to form an opinion
 
All stock suspension other then 43.5 mm shocks. Used the extra control arms it came with stick and stretched the front and 4 linked it. Cut boggers on headlocks. This is my 8 year old sons truck. Was stock till yesterday. Swapped stock frame out for carbon fiber frame. Added a winch. Moved the reciever to the back of the truck and battery to the front both in alum trays. Upgraded to a emax servo and injora motor.
 

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