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This is extremely dumb to most of you

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SpitFireV12RR said:
Okay, we went to the LHS and it took him about a half hour to start. We know it was flooded because 5-7 oz. of fuel came out of the engine & exaust stinger. He started it up, gave it some impolsis of throttle and then killed it and gave it to me. He said most of the problem was the POS glow ignitor I had(It took 1 D battery). He gave me a few extra glow plugs and got me a rechargable glow ignitor and we were off. I can't start break-in( :bored: ) till tomarrow because the ignitor takes 14-16 hours to charge first time. He said that it should start fine know. I asked him about break-in and he said get a big area and just blip the throttle from 0 throttle to 1/4 for 2-3 tanks. Then he said blip from 1/4 to 1/2 for 2-3 tanks and so-on. I am so glad and it should start up easily now he said. :hammer:

Thanks for all your help yesterday and help in the future!
Todd
WHOA!!! 5-7oz? Are you sure?Dude that is close to a full tank! Regardless tell us what happens when you do get her fired up.
 
I got her fired up just now, about a minute ago(With the POS ignitor and just put a new battery in) for about 5 seconds and then I took the ignitor off and it died. So I'm just going to wait till tomarrow when I have the good rechargable on on hand.
 
It might be a little rich, or the engine needs to warm up.
Try leaving the ignitor on the plug. With the engine running, pick the truck up off the ground and blip the throttle on the radio slowly to get it to a slight rev. "KEY WORD< SLIGHT"!
Then take the ignitor off, drop the truck, and have some fun.
 
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Instead of picking it up, I've been starting it up on a 12 pack of coke :) I think it needs to warm up so I'm going to let it idol fast(slight movement of wheels) for about 5 - 10 min.( Since its the first prolonged run) to make sure it won't die out on me when I'm breaking it in. :hammer:

jon2 said:
WHOA!!! 5-7oz? Are you sure?Dude that is close to a full tank! Regardless tell us what happens when you do get her fired up.

A full tank of 75 cc? This buggy has a 145 cc tank... :cheers:
 
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I thought that 7oz was like 200cc+

My math may be wrong... Anyways, Let us know what happens!!!
 
spitfire, sounds like you a learning and maturing quickly here. I also commend you for not slipping immediately into profanity the moment anyone here criticizes you. Good job.

What you did at the LHS and the break in procedure you outlined should do the trick. It may not be perfect or the absolute best break in, but this is your first nitro R/C so at least you can get up and running and learn more.

Good luck tomorrow!

:buggy1:
 
Revo Rancher said:
spitfire, sounds like you a learning and maturing quickly here. I also commend you for not slipping immediately into profanity the moment anyone here criticizes you. Good job.

What you did at the LHS and the break in procedure you outlined should do the trick. It may not be perfect or the absolute best break in, but this is your first nitro R/C so at least you can get up and running and learn more.


:buggy1:

Thanks...when I do slip into profanity after someone critizes me, it always ends up me appoligizing and wishing I hadn't done so. I'm not too worryed about break-in, I'm sure I'm going to get rid of that PITA engine fairly quick. (Probally get an OS .21 or something).

Revo Rancher said:
Good luck tomarrow

Thanks a bunch! :smoke:
 
spitfire, most of the .21 buggy engines including the higher priced high performance ones are a bit tough to get broken in, so I suggest sticking with the mill you have. It really is not a bad mill at all and will serve you well until you get great at handling the buggy and working on the buggy for tune ups and other maintenence. But, heck, at least you are dreaming, and that is half of what this hobby is about... bigger and better!
 
Okay...I'm through about a 1/2 tank and I'm a little because 1.) Smoke was coming from the cooling head(probally cause of some leftover ARO) and 2.) It started to throttle up sometimes when I was playing when I didn't have my hand on the throttle. Its cooling right now in BDC from idoling so it could warm up and I'm going to take it out back now and break-it in. one question though...I'd feel safer if I was in the back in grass so can I break it in in grass?

Thanks,
Todd
 
it makes it harder to tune ...the load created by th egrass on a buggy can make you run really fat when you get on hard packed dirt......it's easier on the hard surfaces...unless you are going to run it on grass all the time, then go for it.....gets messy quick though

if your throttle was going up and down make sure your batts are charged.....if it's a slight revving then you may have an airleak.....
 
It was going up and down at times...it would go pujt put put rrrr put put put put put put put put reeerre phut put puit rrr something like that...not consistent. I'm goin to run it in the back where it's hard packed dirt and some grass tried to grow in...so its not really grass a much as it is dirt.

EDIT: GOD!! I've had nothing but problems with this damn thing!! I think I'm going to try to return it! Okay now guess what its doing...It starts up on the 2nd pull and it'll run and when you let go of the starter cord(on a pull start) it rewinds and then clicks and the engine turns off. I'm just gonna return it! :nono:
 
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Todd, that could be a number of things, but first, back to you ridle issue. It should idle smoothly and just high enough to NOT engage the wheels when you pick it up off the ground. If it is idling too low that may the cause of both the hunting idle and the shut down right after you start. There may be other issues, but this comes to mind first. Are you leaving the GP ignitor on the whole time?

If you suspect the idle is too low, break out yoru manual and find the idle screw, turn it up slowly, about 1.8th turn. The idle shoud go up just slightly. If you can't find/figure out the idle screw, then just move the throttle trim knob a bit clockwise until you hear the idle go up.

I say the above, so you don't have to be confused, because first you had the hunting idle issue, and then the sudden shut off. BTW, usually on a pullstart engine the engine will make that snap sound when it shuts off. It may be coincidence that letting the pull start string go is the same time the motor quits. If my tip above does not get you through another tank, then we'll go from there. It might be something that the LHS will have to adjust or repair (one way bearing).
 
Definitally rev it up and get all the gunk out of there.... (SLIGHT rev...). My OS .21 RG was having the same problems, and i did that and everything was great after that. The engine probably built up fuel from being so rich that it wouldnt run well. Also you might be able to lean the high end out a little bit at this point.
 
OKay...well, I have 1 tank through it. And I'm devistated. I was going at about 1/2 throttle when I notice smoke coming from the head. I brake and it was the fuel line sizziling on the header...no problem. I move it. So then I was running through the back yyard, a slight rev bearly enough to move. And I accidentaly drive into some leaves...and then it cuts out. I find nothing wrong, and I don't think it was the leaves, and it has a fuel filter + the one I bought the other day. So I take it inside and decide to check out the glow plug. I take it out and smoke starts coming from the inside. Either it was leftover from when it cut out, or I'm doing something terribly wrong.

I always seem to buy the duds of the pack(But this time I think it was something I did, or didn't do! :rolleyes: )

I just hope $300.00 didn't go down the drain!!
 
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Yeah, like BR says, it might be more gunk. I thought it was you that said the LHS guy turned it over and a bunch of gunk came out. If ti was not you, then you need to tip it so the exhaust pipe exit faces down and shake the "nitro snot" out of it. Also, the idea BR had to blow it with a hlf throttle blip is good. Once you lean this for performance tuning, AFTER you break it in, you should have less gunk build up and a lot less tuning issues.

Edit:

Read your last post. Sounds like you had a small mistake with the fuel line, but the smoke coming out of the head after you took the plug out might be normal. Remember, it got hot in there while you ran it during breaking it in, so some residual heat and fuel get left in there and will smoke out of the GP hole when you remove the GP.

Keep at it. Run it another tank. By then if it is not running somewhat mroe reliable then I am too far away to help you. BTW, are you following the manufacturer's recommended break in"
 
Revo Rancher said:
BTW, are you following the manufacturer's recommended break in"

There was none...all it said to do was stay at low RPMs which I'm doing. I'll I'm doing is going about 1/4 throttle around my back yard in an L shape. I know theres nothing wrong with the fuel line because there is no fuel coming out there. I really can't do anything till tomarrow because my mom is leaving for work and I have to watch my sick baby sister. I hate to keep putting it off, but thats how it is in life, eh? :bored: Anyways, its a good feeling to know that smoke is normal. I just tried to start it up and its pulling that pull starter poop again so I'm going to let it sit. Its probally because its flooded, because since you guys said to put up the idol, it works. So its going to cool off and I'll try again at about 4:30 eastern. Its really hard to start it by yourself when it's cold because it has so much compression and when you pull the pull starter and someone isn't holding it, it tends to pull the whole car :rolleyes:

Thanks for all the help so-far,
Todd
 
Hey, Todd, good news then. Looks like we got part of it beat.

When you run it again, run it in 1/4-1/3 throttle blips, holding it for about 2-3 seconds, then brake to a stop. Repeat over and over. Do this for a whole tank and then we will lean it a bit. Run the car, doing this 1/3 throttle blips and braking, back and forth, in either a real loose figure eight or long oval.

Also, get a short piece of wood, like a 2x4, about a foot long. Put that under the car and hold the car with your hand and then pull the starter. It's alot easier if the car chassis is sitting on something solid versus compressing the car down on the ground.
 
Okay. I'm very happy now that it starts when I want it to and stops when I want it to! I actually stopped it instead of itself stopping it...LOL! I'm so happy now. Anyways, I just went through about 2 tanks of doing what revo said and doing 1/4-1/3 blips then going one-onethousand two-onethousand, three-onthousand and then applying the brake. It stopped in the middle of my session because the tank was empty although it was only half-full and I only refilled it half full because I knew I'd have to take it in soon to check on my little sister. Anyways, it runs great now and the only thing thats wrong is that I keep touching the cooling head and keep burning my fingers! Man, I didn't think those engines would run so hot! Anyways, thanks EVERYBODY for all the help and Its cooling now so I can doing after-run maintence. It actually handles the grass better than pavement! Anyways, Thanks again, and I'm ready for step 2! Lol!!

Now to go fix those blisters from that damn pull start!! :hammer:
 
good job, now keep that patience so we can help ya out!!
 
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