Build Thread TEKNO SCT410 2.0 Build

[WickedFog]

Looking good man!!

Everyone does things differently, but a lot of times yielding the same result. If it’s lights, it’s a star pattern, or criss-cross. Anything else, and I start in the center, and work my way in a spiral to the outermost fasteners. Either way, it’s three passes until desired torque, bolt stretch, or whatever it calls for.

Yeah, same here. That is a 2 piece cover. So the front half with the diff was the priority.

Also it’s tough to make out-but LOOKED like your switch has “ON” facing the rear of the vehicle. If that’s the case, I’d strongly recommend that ya yank the screws, and rotate it 180deg. If running a mechanical switch (I always delete mine prior to install to eliminate a possible failure point), you always want “ON” facing forward. This way in the event of a crash, or hard hit, lawn dart, etc., the vehicle doesn’t turn off. Seen it happen about a gazillion times. If I misread what looked to be “ON” just outside the metal bezel, and it’s facing toward tue front, obviously disregard.

i always mount those with ON facing the rear if possible (if I even use that switch in anything). I've never had a crash turn one off. I have however had grass and twigs turn a car off on multiple occasions when I had ON facing the front.

But regardless, I already have replacement switches for those, because I freakin' hate those switches because of the whole accidental shut down due to debris. And I already have a mount designed to mount the switches I have. I just need to modify it for this vehicle. I just mounted it to keep my wire from untwisting

You’re moving right along man!! Looking absolutely tremendous!! Get you some dammiit ice cream fella!!

It's in my cart

 

[WickedFog]

I just mounted it to keep my wire from untwisting

I should add that I don't even think the silly twisted wire trick will remain when I'm done. I was looking at it, and there is space to add some better wire management there in the ESC plate, so the on off switch will likely incorporate a mounting location for the switch, as well as a hole that ties to the ESC plate with a channel for the wire.

 

[Littlemotor]

You’re a baaaaaad maaaan…

 

[WickedFog]

I didn't get a pic of the battery tray install, because I got tunnel vision for a bit. I was seeing the light at the end, and just began wrenching to get this build done. I remembered when I was atarting on the wiring and Rx box.

There are two tabs that hold the wires in going to the Rx box. One by the ESC, and one on the rear corner that goes on the boss where the wires make a 90° turn.

I keep the antenna short because the range is never an issue with this Rx. If Breydon ever gets into racing this, we'll swap out to an ELRS setup with a Tx module and an ELRS antennaless Rx. After cutting with the flush cut pliers, I run the body reamer backwards in the ends to make sure the tubing didn't get pinched while cutting. Then I give a light zip around normal to cut any burs out.

Time to setup the radio. This one got a Flysky G3RE Rx and bound to the MT12. Easy peasy.

Once the wiring is all soldered up I'll set the endpoints and calibrate everything.

All buttoned up.

 

[WickedFog]

Time to install the rear assembly! Finally... it's going to become a truck instead of a 2 wheeled cart

Chassis brace assembled.

Oh, I'm as giddy as a school girl. I'll soon be able to push it around on the floor going "VROOM VROOM!"

These are the screws that make this an RC truck!

Just look at it! I was hurting so bad by this point, and my legs were completely numb, but I didn't stop. I'm on the last page of the manual. Press on dammit!

Rear bumper mount going on.

Time to remove the temporary stainless screw to install the rear skid.

Boom!

Rear bumper assembly. There were more parts bolted in here, but sorry guys, I got in a hurry. Anyone know why this little plate is bolted in, instead of simply molded in? Is there something optional that mounts here? Maybe it says that in the manual. At this point I was simply looking at pictures and slingin' screws at it.

WOOT! Dammit guys! This has been an absolutely AWESOME BUILD!

 

[WickedFog]

Time to filthy up the workbench again with plastic shavings and dust.

Round 2 with the JConcepts Ford Raptor SVT SCT-R body.

After marking the body line, I removed the number plates from the wheel openings.

Not to be redundant (See my Losi XXX-SCT rebuild thread for trimming and finishing details on this same body), I'm just going to share the body fitment stuff here.

This is just sitting on the body posts, suspension at full compression. I may have some slight tire rubbage on full compression, but I'll address that when the time comes. I have no problem cutting a body to clear, even if the wheel opening looks a little wonky, I can blend that chit in to hide the fact that I cut 1/4" past the body line.

The rear appears to be pretty decent fully compressed, and I still need to dial in the camber, though the body mounting holes will need put in before I know for sure.

Really hard to see the body edge here, but the lower portion of the nerf bar should be fairly even with the body once the post holes are open.

Hard to see the body post here, but this is a concern that will likely need addressed. Thos roll bar sticking up here will make body pin insertion really difficult, or maybe even impossible. If needbe, I'll design and print some body posts for this, or grab the offset ones from Tekno. That's why I haven't cut these post holes out yet. Still researching.

Top view for clarification.

Here she is boys. This body looks even meaner in this chassis!

How does this look?

More to come, but this thread will be on hold for a bit while I get myself psyched up to paint this. Liquid mask is on the way though. So...

 

[Doom!]

Lookin' hella good! I'm itchin' to see the paint jobs on all of your projects, they never disappoint.

 

[Littlemotor]

Didn’t I ask you to slow TF down over there?!? You need a hearing aid?!?

Lookin rowdy mang!! Nicely done from start to (almost) finish!!

 

[9x19]

Nicely done... so far.

 

[WickedFog]

After setting the body on here, I noticed the screws in the front bomper are going to completely mangle the front of the body, once it's setting down where it needs to be.

So to the PC I went.

Printed it up and held it in place with zip ties. This should be a lot better on the body, especially after I put some shoe goo and tape behind the body in front of this bumper.

 

[Littlemotor]

Nice work sir!!

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Time to filthy up the workbench again with plastic shavings and dust.
View attachment 225188


Round 2 with the JConcepts Ford Raptor SVT SCT-R body.
View attachment 225189

After marking the body line, I removed the number plates from the wheel openings.
View attachment 225190View attachment 225191

Not to be redundant (See my Losi XXX-SCT rebuild thread for trimming and finishing details on this same body), I'm just going to share the body fitment stuff here.

This is just sitting on the body posts, suspension at full compression. I may have some slight tire rubbage on full compression, but I'll address that when the time comes. I have no problem cutting a body to clear, even if the wheel opening looks a little wonky, I can blend that chit in to hide the fact that I cut 1/4" past the body line.
View attachment 225193

The rear appears to be pretty decent fully compressed, and I still need to dial in the camber, though the body mounting holes will need put in before I know for sure.
View attachment 225194

Really hard to see the body edge here, but the lower portion of the nerf bar should be fairly even with the body once the post holes are open.
View attachment 225195

Hard to see the body post here, but this is a concern that will likely need addressed. Thos roll bar sticking up here will make body pin insertion really difficult, or maybe even impossible. If needbe, I'll design and print some body posts for this, or grab the offset ones from Tekno. That's why I haven't cut these post holes out yet. Still researching.
View attachment 225196

Top view for clarification.
View attachment 225197

Here she is boys. This body looks even meaner in this chassis!
View attachment 225198

How does this look?
View attachment 225199View attachment 225200


More to come, but this thread will be on hold for a bit while I get myself psyched up to paint this. Liquid mask is on the way though. So...
View attachment 225220

As a "newbie" to painting Lexan again. What do you typically use the liquid mask on when painting the body? I may have purchased a couple more bodies to paint

 

[WickedFog]

You paint the entire inside of the body with it (minimum 5 coats), trim out your design with an Xacto, and it protects the areas you don't want to paint better than masking tape.

This shoould be enough to do two bathtubs and a few 1/10 bodies

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

You paint the entire inside of the body with it (minimum 5 coats), trim out your design with an Xacto, and it protects the areas you don't want to paint better than masking tape.

This shoould be enough to do two bathtubs and a few 1/10 bodies
View attachment 226175

Ohh. That is interesting! I've seen it, but wasn't sure how/when it was applied in the paint process. I'll look up tutorials on that! I only have a small iwata airbrush, so not sure if that'll work with it or not. I want to airbrush my next body to eliminate excess over spray that happens with the rattle cans.

 

[Doom!]

After setting the body on here, I noticed the screws in the front bomper are going to completely mangle the front of the body, once it's setting down where it needs to be.
View attachment 226161

So to the PC I went.
View attachment 226163
View attachment 226162

Printed it up and held it in place with zip ties. This should be a lot better on the body, especially after I put some shoe goo and tape behind the bumper.
View attachment 226164

Nice fix! I think it looks better than the exposed bolts too.

 

[WickedFog]

Ohh. That is interesting! I've seen it, but wasn't sure how/when it was applied in the paint process. I'll look up tutorials on that! I only have a small iwata airbrush, so not sure if that'll work with it or not. I want to airbrush my next body to eliminate excess over spray that happens with the rattle cans.

Iwata's are the creme de la creme of airbrushes. Even their cheaper ones are nice, provided you didn't buy one of their generic ones.

If you want to see how it's used, look here.

Thread '“Ladies First!” Mrs. Littlemotor’s Tekno ET48 2.0 build!!'

Jul 5, 2024

This is another build I’m wrapping up for my girl this go ‘round.. It’s a Tekno ET48 2.0 I picked up used for a smokin’ deal that was fairly clean. It came with a Tekin T8 2050KV, and a Tekin digital servo to handle steering duties. The chassis barely had a scratch on it, and the guy MAYBE put a half hour on the thing..

I ALWAYS tear them down to every last fastener, and go through everything. Found a few things the previous owner f’d up on the build, and a couple other things that needed attention as well. I sold her bulletproofed Talion, and bought this as it makes more sense for us...

• Littlemotor
• Replies: 67
• Forum: RC Builds and Projects

• 
• 
• 

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Iwata's are the creme de la creme of airbrushes. Even their cheaper ones are nice, provided you didn't buy one of their generic ones.

If you want to see how it's used, look here.

Thread '“Ladies First!” Mrs. Littlemotor’s Tekno ET48 2.0 build!!'

Jul 5, 2024

This is another build I’m wrapping up for my girl this go ‘round.. It’s a Tekno ET48 2.0 I picked up used for a smokin’ deal that was fairly clean. It came with a Tekin T8 2050KV, and a Tekin digital servo to handle steering duties. The chassis barely had a scratch on it, and the guy MAYBE put a half hour on the thing..

I ALWAYS tear them down to every last fastener, and go through everything. Found a few things the previous owner f’d up on the build, and a couple other things that needed attention as well. I sold her bulletproofed Talion, and bought this as it makes more sense for us...

• Littlemotor
• Replies: 67
• Forum: RC Builds and Projects

• 
• 
• 

Yea, I have the HP-CS model. Its been great. I'll check out Littlemotors thread. Thanks!
The tekno is looking fabulous!

 

[WickedFog]

Yea, I have the HP-CS model. Its been great. I'll check out Littlemotors thread. Thanks!
The tekno is looking fabulous!

Thank you. I had to take a break the last few days. Wrenching on 3 different kits over the last few weeks has me feeling broken. I'll get back to it tomorrow I hope. I am ready get the body mounting holes cut, and start laying liquid mask down on the two bathtubs for these SCT's. That is going to take a day or two, letting it dry between coats. You want to make sure it is dried and clear before you lay down your next coat, and that takes a bit.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

Time to filthy up the workbench again with plastic shavings and dust.
View attachment 225188


Round 2 with the JConcepts Ford Raptor SVT SCT-R body.
View attachment 225189

After marking the body line, I removed the number plates from the wheel openings.
View attachment 225190View attachment 225191

Not to be redundant (See my Losi XXX-SCT rebuild thread for trimming and finishing details on this same body), I'm just going to share the body fitment stuff here.

This is just sitting on the body posts, suspension at full compression. I may have some slight tire rubbage on full compression, but I'll address that when the time comes. I have no problem cutting a body to clear, even if the wheel opening looks a little wonky, I can blend that chit in to hide the fact that I cut 1/4" past the body line.
View attachment 225193

The rear appears to be pretty decent fully compressed, and I still need to dial in the camber, though the body mounting holes will need put in before I know for sure.
View attachment 225194

Really hard to see the body edge here, but the lower portion of the nerf bar should be fairly even with the body once the post holes are open.
View attachment 225195

Hard to see the body post here, but this is a concern that will likely need addressed. Thos roll bar sticking up here will make body pin insertion really difficult, or maybe even impossible. If needbe, I'll design and print some body posts for this, or grab the offset ones from Tekno. That's why I haven't cut these post holes out yet. Still researching.
View attachment 225196

Top view for clarification.
View attachment 225197

Here she is boys. This body looks even meaner in this chassis!
View attachment 225198

How does this look?
View attachment 225199View attachment 225200


More to come, but this thread will be on hold for a bit while I get myself psyched up to paint this. Liquid mask is on the way though. So...
View attachment 225220

Beautiful truck, I might want one someday although i like my Slash 4x4 Ultimate and i'm interested in getting a Senton 223s but who knows this might be a better option. Although building one of these would be way more then upgrading my Slash or a Senton 223s but this now has my interest lmk when you do more work on it.

 

[nino]

A Slash and a 410 are not in the same category... If you decide to get it you'll be amazed!