Build Thread TEKNO SCT410 2.0 Build

[Warby]

Why did I stop getting notifications for this thread. I thought you must have put the build on hold.

Looks A grade so far. Those arms look solid AF.

 

[Littlemotor]

Finally got the replacement pivot ball. Time to get back to work on this.
View attachment 224198

Again, make sure you look for the ring that looks pressed into the face of the rod end, and install the ball from this side.
View attachment 224200

Ready for installation. Make sure the grooves cut into the links are on the left side of the front end assembly. They are actually laying backwards in this pic, based on the orientation of the front end. That's because I flip the front end around backwards when I install the links so I can see to put the nuts on
View attachment 224201

Front end assembly complete for this step.
View attachment 224202

Group photo.
View attachment 224203

Killer!!! Attention to detail is second to none! Really coming along now that the snafu has been resolved!

 

[WickedFog]

Why did I stop getting notifications for this thread. I thought you must have put the build on hold.

Looks A grade so far. Those arms look solid AF.

Thanks Warby. I've heard others say that as well. It happens to me too. Just to give ya an idea where I'm at... the ESC, motor, servo, and battery tray are installed. I'm just lacking in getting the pics and stuff posted here. I am guessing it is rrady for either the rear clip, ir the center diff installed. I have 1 or 2 bags left.

And yeah, you'd have to drive this thing into a brick wall to hurt it, just from the looks of things so far. I took a file to the servo mount to try to make some clearance for the cable, and after putting enough force and time on the file to grind completely through a Traxxas or Arrma control arm, I pulled back the file to reveal I hadn't done any more than cut about a .5mm chamfer at best. It felt like trying to file on a piece of hardened steel. So it not only looks strong, but this plastic is the most durable plastic I've ever dealt with.

Killer!!! Attention to detail is second to none! Really coming along now that the snafu has been resolved!

Thanks dude. I'm assembling this thing wishing I had grabbed some washers for flatheads. Tekno needs to look at your builds and add those. Some if these screws just look gaudy having a cap head hanging out there. Next one I build (if ever) I am definitely going to spend more time looking through the manual and creating a parts list.

 

[RustyUs]

Great build . Sometime, when you get around to it, please let me know if the rod ends tighten when you pull on the turnbuckle adjust tool when looking from behind. I'm just curious of the threads/marking on Klinik's turnbuckles. Stock Tekno turnbuckles (every 1/10 & 1/8 scale platform) are backwards compared to every turnbuckle I've ever built when placing the marking to the left.

Also, you must have been hanging out with Jared Wiggins and his progressive slop induced sway bar clinic.

 

[WickedFog]

Great build . Sometime, when you get around to it, please let me know if the rod ends tighten when you pull on the turnbuckle adjust tool when looking from behind. I'm just curious of the threads/marking on Klinik's turnbuckles. Stock Tekno turnbuckles (every 1/10 & 1/8 scale platform) are backwards compared to every turnbuckle I've ever built when placing the marking to the left.

Also, you must have been hanging out with Jared Wiggins and his progressive slop induced sway bar clinic.

I have adusted a couple of them on the chassis, but I don't remember if the chassis was facing me or not I will go check in a bit.

 

[WickedFog]

Also, you must have been hanging out with Jared Wiggins and his progressive slop induced sway bar clinic.

Oh, and after building it per the manual, I sent @Littlemotor a pic of the arms suspended in the air because the sway bar bushings were snug in those plastic collars, asking him if it was supposed to be that way. He told me to assemble it like it is now, with those metal collars flipped.

But it's driving me nuts with so much slop, and I want to swap out those bushings for some 3d printed ones with a slightly smaller ID. It's as if the sway bar is doing nothing like it is. But I'm sure Littlemotor will tell me it's fine, and I need to turn off my OCD

But turning off that OCD chit just doesn't work for me.

 

[9x19]

Looks great...

Aren't the sway bar bushings supposed to go into the plastic ears of the diff housing?

Yours seem reversed from what I remember... but I don't have the manual handy either.

 

[Littlemotor]

Looks great...

Aren't the sway bar bushings supposed to go into the plastic ears of the diff housing?

Yours seem reversed from what I remember... but I don't have the manual handy either.

NO.

 

[9x19]

I guess mine came with a different manual...

 

[9x19]

NO.

NO.

Is that your final answer?

 

[CertifiedMike]

Is the difference between kits set up due to the 'optional' parts?

 

[Littlemotor]

I guess mine came with a different manual...

View attachment 224278

The manual hasn’t been updated for the running change to accommodate the “deadband” style bushing setup, as opposed to the BEARINGS that those collars have the end to sit inside of the race. You don’t want that inside a standard bushing.

 

[Littlemotor]

Is that your final answer?

Sure is.

 

[Littlemotor]

Is the difference between kits set up due to the 'optional' parts?

Kind of.. It’s a running change in the swaybar arrangement that’s been adopted from ALL of their 1/8 vehicles.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I know things like this are small but a slip of paper in the box with updates could make a build go smoother.
I prob would have been in the same boat with my OCD waking me up at 2am to 'just try it like this'

 

[Littlemotor]

Is that your final answer?

#1 in the world Tekno driver, Ryan Maifield…

Final question?

 

[Littlemotor]

FWIW, I’ve been running all of mine this way for the past few years PRIOR to seeing the pro’s doing it.. Bearings are a solid idea ON PAPER imo, but in the real world of off-road RC-there were absolutely issues. I installed Mugen aluminum spacers in place of my bearings, chopped the ends off the collars, and it was a completely different truck. Sooooo much more plush, but also more stable, as well as responsive. Like driving on a cloud, that goes where you point it. Felt like it was fighting me before… It’s a massive difference.. And Apparently the boys at Tekno thought so too-enough to make the change, and ditch the bearings, & flip the collars. Real world driving > keyboard racing, and “on paper” theories. Get out and TEST.

 

[9x19]

Thanks for the added info.

 

[TeknoJ]

Looking like a great build so far. I have a set of choppers on my 410.3 and they are very good tires, specifically the terrain I'm in.

 

[WickedFog]

Time for the bellcrank.

See picture of spring behind this. Something didntlook right bere, but @Littlemotor, who has become my tech support for this build, asdured me it was. And I think this spring was originally used on the Ford Pinto, but Ford realized the Pinto wasn't heavy enough for such a spring.

So after realizing that my socket set doesn't have a 17mm socket in it, I faced the realization that I was either going to have to wait til I could get a 17mm wrench, or do this the hard way. I have always taken pride in the fact I could hold up a concrete block with just two fingers and my thumb. But that was in my youth. Trying to compress this ridiculously strong spring, and thread on a super fine thread nut was a bit tougher than that, but after about 6 attempts reversing the nut to find the lead in thread, only to lose my strength, I decided to mark the lead thread location without the spring and try again. After the most intense stuggle I have ever faced in RC (arthritis in both hands and fingers) I got the nut started.

After letting the feeling come back into my fingers, I bear gripped this byatch and threaded it all the way tight, then backed it off two turns per the manual.

You know what's funny? I could have designed and printed a suitable 17mm wrench for this

Upgraded bushings thanks to Littlemoter's experience here seeing a potential weak point and ordering me a set.

♫ ♬ ♭ Lets get together and feel all right ♫ ♬ ♭

Bearings to install is all that was left, then it's time to remove the chassis from the plastic!