Build Thread TEKNO SCT410 2.0 Build

[WickedFog]

Thanks to a bunch of guys here, I have my first Tekno to build. So without beating around the bush, let's get into it.

The stuff.

A bunch of upgrades.

Full Tekin electronics.

Some Titaniuminum linkages.

And some Tekno wheels with JConcepts Choppers.

 

[WickedFog]

My favorite part of any RC build - The diffs. Center diff done, but I guess I can show ya the frint and rear diff builds.

Upgrades used in this step.

A little prep work. O-rings are taking a dip in the green goo.

After putting a little Mobil 1 synthetic on the outdrives, it's time to insert the shims, then the pins. Make sure you know where the hole is, because it's hard to see it once in the diff. These are lined up with the slots in the outdrives. Use the slot in the diff cup to guide it in.

Finicky bit done.

I fill the diff in stages. A little under the sun gear, then a little on top before the bevel gears go in.

Bevel gears ready to go.

Drop the first set in, making sure the flat on the shaft is facing up, and cover them with diff fluid. The second set goes in with the slot facing down. Typical diff fashion.

Then top the diff with fluid, making sure to leave a little room for the top sun gear.

I like to place the gasket in the ring gear and put a bolt through as I am placing it on the diff cup, so the gasket doesn't move.

Easy peasy. Notice a little fluid came through. She's full.

Make sure to label your diffs. I use my Molotow chrome paint pens to make it easy to see which is which. Old eyes ya know

 

[WickedFog]

Shocks are up next in my order of things. I like to get these done right after the diffs. These were some of the funnest shocks I've built. No silly e-clips

Upgrade parts used on this step.

First up, clean the shafts.

Then install the pistons. Make sure the counterbore faces the screw. Use blue Loctite here.

After the shafts are done, it's time to install the seals in the shock bodies. O-ring, spacer, o-ring, then the final clamp and collar.

1st o-ring.

Spacer.

2nd o-ring.

Top hat looking thingy that clamps the o-rings in.

Screw the lower cap on but dont squish the o-rings yet.

Slide the shaft through, then clamp it down. Make sure you put some more green slime on the tip of the shock shaft for a smooth entry.

Install your boot and pre-load adjuster and shock end. Then I guess according to @Littlemotor you're supposed to stick your finger in it. I gots me some fat fingers or small shocks it seems. But nothing happened here

Continued in next post.

 

[WickedFog]

Install the boots and shock ends per the length called out in the manual.

Rrady for lubrification.

Fill them close to the top and work the shock shaft up and down slowly to push the air out from under the piston. You'll see some bubbles float to the top. Keep pumping till you see no more bubbles. Tip - you can use the tip of your (clean) hex driver to pop these bubbles. Gives ya something to do while you're waiting

Once you have no more bubbles, fill them to the top. I fill them until it is a convex surface.

Install the o-rings in the caps while you wait for any more bubbles to pop. Use some green slime here. Wipe out any excess when you get the o-ring seated.

Screw the cap on. Reverse the cap to find your lead in thread, then screw it on tight. Put a little green goo on your bleeder screw and o-ring.

Hold the shock so the bleeder hole in the cap is facing up and slowly push the shock shaft up and hold it fully compressed. You will see fluid come out. Install the bleeder screw tight, but be gentle. Then pump the shocks 20-30 times quickly. With the shock fully extended pull the bleeder. Make sure bleeder is facing up again. Then push the shaft back up slowly to push out excess fluid again and reinsert the bleeder screw. Fluid fillage is not complete.

From there you can install your springs and bounce on over to the next step.

 

[Littlemotor]

Yessir!!!!!! I didn’t get the tag notification AGAINZO…

I’ve been slacking at checking the forum threads in the midst of being more anal than usual with the current build. I’m mostly out of the woods on the crazy modificatin’, and I’m not gonna “unwatchable This one so I don’t miss a daamned thing!! looking KILLER broham!!!

 

[ferrebee88]

Nicely done! That is a very detailed shock build! I don't stick my finger in it, but sometimes I whisper sweet nothings to it as I try to get the rebound right! Lol

 

[WickedFog]

Nicely done! That is a very detailed shock build! I don't stick my finger in it, but sometimes I whisper sweet nothings to it as I try to get the rebound right! Lol

I saw Littlemotor do it and I thought I must have been doing something wrong all these years.

Build is on hold again. I got to putting the front camber links together and this rolled out of the bag.

I could file it in and make it work, but I'm not gonna. I sent Tekno an email. Hopefully a replacement shows up soon.

What's interesting, is this appears to have fallen somewhere in the machine it should have been, and it got wedged in and was worn or grounds like this before hard anodize. I wonder if they even noticed something wrong in the machine.

 

[ferrebee88]

Oh wow. I have built 8 or 9 Tekno kits and have never had a mismatched or defective part! Maybe the machine got hungry.

 

[WickedFog]

Oh wow. I have built 8 or 9 Tekno kits and have never had a mismatched or defective part! Maybe the machine got hungry.

It sure did. It doesn't look smashed. It looks smeared off. Like it got caught in a grinder.

 

[ferrebee88]

1st tekno kit right? How do you like the shocks? I prefer their older style that held the piston on with a nylon filled lock nut.

 

[WickedFog]

1st tekno kit right? How do you like the shocks? I prefer their older style that held the piston on with a nylon filled lock nut.

Yeah, this is my first race grade anything except old RC10's and a couple Losi's years ago. I've never had anything close to this.

The shocks seem nice. I am a little concerned that the shock shaft felt a little loose in the o-rings, but as long as they don't leak, it's all good. The machining on the shock body is great. And yeah, I could see a locknut holding the piston on being a bit better. But having the delrin pistons in it, I think it will be pretty durable.

 

[CertifiedMike]

1st tekno kit right? How do you like the shocks? I prefer their older style that held the piston on with a nylon filled lock nut.

I prefer any shock that has no e-clips!!!

 

[WickedFog]

I prefer any shock that has no e-clips!!!

I don't mind them so much on the shocks. The first one is really easy. The bottom one is too. I just lay it there and use my pliers spanning the shaft to the clip. They usually pop right on or go flying across the room.

I have shot about 6 of them through the air. I have a large magnetic wand with a 3" magnet. I bet I have found about 10 of them them with it

 

[CertifiedMike]

I don't mind them so much on the shocks. The first one is really easy. The bottom one is to. I just lay it there and use my plets spanning the shaft to the clip. They usually pop right on or go flying across the room.

I have shot about 6 of them through the air. I have a large magnetic wand with a 3" magnet. I bet I have found about 10 of them them with it

I am usually pretty good with keeping them from launch. I try to use my giant hands as catcher mitts and use a bit of super lube so they are 'sticky'.
Just generally I find them a bit annoying because they are so tiny.
I use a few of the mechanics long reach magnets, not only for finding and picking up lost/dropped items but like in your diffs, the pin thru the diff cup inside the diff... I' d have stuck the pin on the end of the magnet and used that to get it lined up and thru.
They are a lifesaver for my 'differently abled" hands when they act up!
Unfortunately, my vacuum finds a fair amount of my dropped hardware. Its ok tho because that poor thing NEEDS a few screws and clips etc!

 

[9x19]

Great progress... I wonder if the pivot balls are cast, and that one got damaged right out of the mold... no matter, I'm sure they'll take care of it.

 

[WickedFog]

Great progress... I wonder if the pivot balls are cast, and that one got damaged right out of the mold... no matter, I'm sure they'll take care of it.

Hard to say. They look ground and hard anodized to me. Production grinding machines are quick. I would say they are made in a swiss. But I don't see any tooling marks.

Oh, they already have a new one on the way.

And I have a lot more done than I've posted. I am just waiting til I can complete the front and rear clip to post it all. The rear is done. The front just needs the camber links.

 

[9x19]

And here I was picturing you working on this while sitting on a three-legged stool...

 

[RustyUs]

Yeah, this is my first race grade anything except ild RC10's and a couple Losi's tears ago. I've never had anything close to this.

The shocks seem nice. I am a little concerned that the shock shaft felt a little loose in the x-rings, but as long as they don't leak, it's all good. The machining on the shock body is great. And yeah, I could see a locknut holding the piston on being a bit better. But having the delrin pistons in it, I think it will be pretty durable.

You are not the only one who felt that way about the x-rings. It was like a bad plague happening when the ET410 came out. Everyone bought up Axial o-rings everywhere. I was in disbelief for a while, but a leak started to form on my shocks as well. Also, the first gen EB410 didn't have the thin spacer in between the x-rings like you see in the SCT410 2.0 manual... Tekno quickly did a running change on EB410 kits.

Alternative o-rings: https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/alternative-shock-o-rings.1338/

 

[WickedFog]

You are not the only one who felt that way about the x-rings. It was like a bad plague happening when the ET410 came out. Everyone bought up Axial o-rings everywhere. I was in disbelief for a while, but a leak started to form on my shocks as well. Also, the first gen EB410 didn't have the thin spacer in between the x-rings like you see in the SCT410 2.0 manual... Tekno quickly did a running change on EB410 kits.

Alternative o-rings: https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/alternative-shock-o-rings.1338/

Thanks dude! I got those HPI ones and a couple different ones in my Amain cart. You can never have too many o-rings.

Good news! The pivot ball replacement that initially looked like it was going to be lost in Indy for a few weeks is out for delivery. Tekno was on top of getting that out to me from California, and if it had not been for USPS keeping it hostage for a few days, it would have been here sooner.

But regardless, I have the XXX on the bench at the moment getting some finishing work done and body prepped. And the mud flaps are also showing up today, and I can't wait to get them fitted. So after I get them on I need to address a damaged nerf bar hole, then this Tekno will be back on the bench.

Happy day!

 

[WickedFog]

Finally got the replacement pivot ball. Time to get back to work on this.

Again, make sure you look for the ring that looks pressed into the face of the rod end, and install the ball from this side.

Ready for installation. Make sure the grooves cut into the links are on the left side of the front end assembly. They are actually laying backwards in this pic, based on the orientation of the front end. That's because I flip the front end around backwards when I install the links so I can see to put the nuts on

Front end assembly complete for this step.

Group photo.