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Build Thread Tekno RC MSCT410 2.0

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RustyUs

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Location
Pennsylvania, USA
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
Diffs

Pins, gaskets, o-rings, shims, gears, gears, and more gears... nothing special to see here. Made threads in the diff cases before filling.
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Front Gearbox

Diff coupler set screws get my utmost attention during any build. Why? If they loosen just a tad bit during a run and then they go unchecked... all heck can be unleashed, and a person can be left with $$$ order for replacement parts. These little set screws always get threadlocker. Manual calls for blue/medium strength stuff... I'll use red, or orange threadlocker 💪 ;)💪
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13x16x.1mm shim needed to push ring gear away from the diff pinion.
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Meh, I'll go with the supplied black grease this time around.
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A loose coupling setscrew on my NB was causing issues a few weeks ago and then noticed Wednesday night that the same screw was also loose on my EB! Both got a fresh dose of Blue but will use orange moving forward - appreciate the tip!
 
Ha! Despite your attempt to mask the brand, pretty sure that I recognize that. ;)
You sir have a good eye. ;) 😁

A loose coupling setscrew on my NB was causing issues a few weeks ago and then noticed Wednesday night that the same screw was also loose on my EB! Both got a fresh dose of Blue but will use orange moving forward - appreciate the tip!
I just heat up the set screw with soldering tip for a few seconds when it comes time for removal. I pretty sure I've expressed my thoughts on the subject before. I used to think I was the only one who used red threadlocker on those set screws. Then one day I came to find out Jared Tebo was doing the same thing. :thumbs-up:
 
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Front Shock Tower

Even though the manual does not say to use threadlocker on the shock standoff nuts, I sleep better at night knowing my nuts are secure:rolex:😆
The blue stuff this time.
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Rear Gearbox

Again, I'm gonna whip out some orange threadlocker for the set screw used to secure the rear center uni driveshaft to the diff pinion gear.
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We've all done it at least one time with our 4wd rides. We turn the power on and pull the trigger... front tires turning forward while the rear tires are turning in reverse 🤦‍♂️ Just double check the orientation of the diffs when placing them in the gearbox.
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More of that blue threadlocker gel stuff for the standoffs. Those nylon inserts inside of locking nuts only do so much locking.
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Front Shock Tower

Even though the manual does not say to use threadlocker on the shock standoff nuts, I sleep better at night knowing my nuts are secure:rolex:😆
The blue stuff this time.
View attachment 272579View attachment 272580

Rear Gearbox

Again, I'm gonna whip out some orange threadlocker for the set screw used to secure the rear center uni driveshaft to the diff pinion gear.
View attachment 272581View attachment 272582

We've all done it at least one time with our 4wd rides. We turn the power on and pull the trigger... front tires turning forward while the rear tires are turning in reverse 🤦‍♂️ Just double check the orientation of the diffs when placing them in the gearbox.
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View attachment 272584

More of that blue threadlocker gel stuff for the standoffs. Those nylon inserts inside of locking nuts only do so much locking.
View attachment 272586View attachment 272585
If you follow the diagram everything will turn in the correct direction... When my buddie's son built his EB, it wouldn't roll - guess why?...

Last build "oops" I did was forgot to put the bearing on the diff case after it had fluid in it. Made a big mess!!!
 
Sway Bars

This is one of the places where "cutting back" on quality is done to make a kit price more enticing. Composite collars & bushings 🤮 There is a very fine line with tightening the set screws into plastic. Get it right.... who am I kiddin'. It'll never happen 😁 Plastic is too soft. The collars end up just going for a ride on the "bars"... useless 🙄
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Mayako and ball bearings to the rescue.
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Camber Links

I orient all my turnbuckles so that when I go to adjust them, looking from behind, pulling back on a wrench shortens the distance between rod ends. I've done it this way since turnbuckles became a thing in the hobby.
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Knew TeknoRC (electric) from the diffs/housings/44T plastic spur gear but was still in doubt (EB/ET/SCT/MT)? Figured it wasn't MT48 because of the steel diff shafts. That one should be killer!

I need to start building my MT48 2.0 kit.
 
If you follow the diagram everything will turn in the correct direction... When my buddie's son built his EB, it wouldn't roll - guess why?...

Last build "oops" I did was forgot to put the bearing on the diff case after it had fluid in it. Made a big mess!!!
I often thought if 1/10th scale RCs can have bearings that slip over the outdrives, why wouldn't it work for 1/8th scale rides?
 
Steering & Linkage

Going to go with the aluminum steering rack bushings this time around. I had no trouble with stock plastic bushings other than the top hex area is thicker which led to slight rubbing on top plate. A 17mm hex wrench makes threading the servo saver nut a breeze.
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Flat head screws and cone washers to spread the forces over a larger area.
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Drilled and carved a hole in the front chassis brace to allow ESC's wire/plug to pass through later.
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Electronics

I run little to no 3S LiPo batteries in any of my RCs anymore. I only have one 3S LiPo pack and it hasn't seen any action in a long time. This SCT will have larger/heavier tires so I though it'll be a good candidate for a lower Kv motor and up the voltage in hopes to balance things out.
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Ignore the model's name and specs in program pics below. I just changed the Internal Gear Ratio & Spur Gear to match what a SCT410 2.0 has.
My SCT410 2.0's gearing running 2S pack...
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I got to order a couple of pinion gears before I mount the motor, but the MSCT410 2.0's projected gearing starting point running a 3S pack...
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I'm not sure about the receiver. One of the two receivers that came with the FlySky Noble is just HUGE from what I'm used to. I thought for sure the receiver box would have plenty of room, but...
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Not ideal, but it is what it is. Will shove some foam in there later once servo and ESC are plugged in.
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ESC Positioning

I don't think there is a right or wrong way to installing an ESC. It's all about what you got to work with. Space and location of other components are factors that need to be taken into consideration though. Same Hobbywing EZRun speed control that I used in my other SCT410 2.0 so the orientation is the same. This time I chose to use only a couple layers of double sided tape to secure the ESC to the plastic mounting plate. A dab of E6000 (shown with arrow below) to hold on/off switch wires to the ESC.
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No shortening of the "ABC" motor wires yet. At some point, when I get annoyed enough, I may go ahead and whip out the soldering iron. Main goal is to secure the wires... keep movement to a minimum. Drilled hole on the side guard for zip tie/motor wires securing point.
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Servo Linkage

Shimmed (2x2mm spacers) the bell crank end of the servo drag link up to lessen the angle created by the height difference.
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Because the teeth on a servo's output spline puts a servo horn off by a tiny bit, sub trim makes squaring things up super easy. This right here is the reason why you want a radio with sub trims on it. I don't know why, but Tekno omitted (in the MT/SCT410 2.0 manuals) the part where they show the alignment of the servo horn like they do in their other manuals.
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People always said they wish they had a cover for their SCT410.3. Tekno listened. The gear cover is one of the main reasons I like the SCT410 2.0 platform. :cool: :thumbs-up:
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Revisited the ESC after putting the drive shaft in. Zip ties wrapped around the ESC to secure wires. I don't trust what comes alone for the ride during off-road adventures.
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