Team Associated B74.1D 4WD Buggy build

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Hmm. Yeah, that would make more sense. Got a link to that online manual?
 
Looking at pro drivers set up sheets for electronics. I found this from Spencer Rivkin earlier this year. He is using a Futaba 10px which I won't get. I will start out with my radiolink then do a mid range futaba. He is using a Savox servo which I might look into. He is using the XR10 Pro G2 with a 4.5 for mod racing. I plan to start out with stock 13.5 then upgrade to mod. And I am trying to get reliable electronics that are not that expensive so I had been looking at the XR10 Justock 13.5 which should be a good starter system.
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Looking at pro drivers set up sheets for electronics. I found this from Spencer Rivkin earlier this year. He is using a Futaba 10px which I won't get. I will start out with my radiolink then do a mid range futaba. He is using a Savox servo which I might look into. He is using the XR10 Pro G2 with a 4.5 for mod racing. I plan to start out with stock 13.5 then upgrade to mod. And I am trying to get reliable electronics that are not that expensive so I had been looking at the XR10 Justock 13.5 which should be a good starter system.
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thats one hell of a good setup
 
thats one hell of a good setup
I really want to get into RC racing. I already have a race truck and it's my team-associated sc10 4x4 belt driven and the thing is a monster on the track. I can't actually race it because I don't have a lap transponder or all the necessary stuff. I converted it to a carpet racing SCT and it's fricken fast. it goes around 50 mph on a 3s battery in the street and around 45 mph in tall grass. I had to convert it to a carpet racer because PDX underground (my local track) doesn't allow 4x4 short-course trucks that are stock because it will tear up the carpet. I was going to go like a week ago but they were having an on-road racing event and the only way we would have been able to go was if I had an on-road car which I don't have. I am running a bronco body on it and I had to cut the wheel arches because the tires balloon a lot and it was shredding the tires and the body. I also have a team associated rc10 t3 vintage that I would like to start racing as well because they were made for the kind of racing that they do at my track. I also have an ECX ruckus 1/18 that I am restoring and making brushless. I'm going to turn it into a little Buggy/Truggy that I will race at the track. For the brushless system, I'm going to either use the Spektrum 2 In 1 motor and ESC, or I'm going to use the 2-in-1 motor and ESC combo that comes in the Losi mini-t 2.0. I am also going to get a bearing kit for it because when it is stock it has bushings that really limit the speed of the axles. I am then going to upgrade the tires to carpet ones and I'm also going to find a tiny buggy or truggy body that will fit on it. I will put on metal CVDs that will be able to withstand the power of the brushless motor. I might run an 11-tooth pinion and I might gear up or gear down when I tune it for the track. I am also most likely going to cut off the bottom-loading battery tray because it looks ugly and it won't fit underneath the body that I will use.
 
Late night wrenching well not wrenching but glueing. Glued up the tires by using the protek ca glue and tire bands.

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Going down to the local clay track or planning to next Friday. These are for the B74 but it's not going to be running by then so I am going to see if I can use these on the slash or rustler. If not I can get tires there.
I really want to get into RC racing. I already have a race truck and it's my team-associated sc10 4x4 belt driven and the thing is a monster on the track. I can't actually race it because I don't have a lap transponder or all the necessary stuff. I converted it to a carpet racing SCT and it's fricken fast. it goes around 50 mph on a 3s battery in the street and around 45 mph in tall grass. I had to convert it to a carpet racer because PDX underground (my local track) doesn't allow 4x4 short-course trucks that are stock because it will tear up the carpet. I was going to go like a week ago but they were having an on-road racing event and the only way we would have been able to go was if I had an on-road car which I don't have. I am running a bronco body on it and I had to cut the wheel arches because the tires balloon a lot and it was shredding the tires and the body. I also have a team associated rc10 t3 vintage that I would like to start racing as well because they were made for the kind of racing that they do at my track. I also have an ECX ruckus 1/18 that I am restoring and making brushless. I'm going to turn it into a little Buggy/Truggy that I will race at the track. For the brushless system, I'm going to either use the Spektrum 2 In 1 motor and ESC, or I'm going to use the 2-in-1 motor and ESC combo that comes in the Losi mini-t 2.0. I am also going to get a bearing kit for it because when it is stock it has bushings that really limit the speed of the axles. I am then going to upgrade the tires to carpet ones and I'm also going to find a tiny buggy or truggy body that will fit on it. I will put on metal CVDs that will be able to withstand the power of the brushless motor. I might run an 11-tooth pinion and I might gear up or gear down when I tune it for the track. I am also most likely going to cut off the bottom-loading battery tray because it looks ugly and it won't fit underneath the body that I will use.
Wow. Sounds like a plan. A lot of places aren't racing sct anymore like it's fading away. Not alot of people raced sct at my old LHS track. The 2 in one system for your 1/18 car, that system is ok. I would rather look at the hobbywing quicrun 1/18 systems. I have the 2 in 1 in my losi Mini b. Runs fine buts it's just how you program it. With the 2 in 1 for programming you need to hit the set button and listen for beeps while with the hobbywing you can program it with the LCD card and is so much easier. Also with hobbywing you can choose different kv motors. The 2 in 1 is only available in 6000kv.
 
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Late night wrenching well not wrenching but glueing. Glued up the tires by using the protek ca glue and tire bands.

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Going down to the local clay track or planning to next Friday. These are for the B74 but it's not going to be running by then so I am going to see if I can use these on the slash or rustler. If not I can get tires there.

Wow. Sounds like a plan. A lot of places aren't racing sct anymore like it's fading away. Not alot of people raced sct at my old LHS track. The 2 in one system for your 1/18 car, that system is ok. I would rather look at the hobbywing quicrun 1/18 systems. I have the 2 in 1 in my losi Mini b. Runs fine buts it's just how you program it. With the 2 in 1 for programming you need to hit the set button and listen for beeps while with the hobbywing you can program it with the LCD card and is so much easier. Also with hobbywing you can choose different kv motors. The 2 in 1 is only available in 6000kv.
okay, thank you! 'LD'
 
plan to start out with stock 13.5 then upgrade to mod. And I am trying to get reliable electronics that are not that expensive so I had been looking at the XR10 Justock 13.5 which should be a good starter system.
Hi David,
Yes, you can start in the spec class (13,5T) Buggy 4x4 and use de the basic Reedy (13,5T) class motor + HW 80 amp ESC. This is my set up for racing and I love it. I can maybe scan my spec race sheet for racing if you want.

I have 2 B74; one for racing (spec) and the other one for training (mod)

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PL
 
Wow. Sounds like a plan. A lot of places aren't racing sct anymore like it's fading away. Not alot of people raced sct at my old LHS track.
Good point,
I am racing with my son's stock Slash 2WD in the Stadium trcuk class. All the other SCT are disallowed (too heavy)

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Funny with the Slash, but very hard to make the A-B Main final... Stadium trucks are too fast... :)
 
Good point,
I am racing with my son's stock Slash 2WD in the Stadium trcuk class. All the other SCT are disallowed (too heavy)

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Funny with the Slash, but very hard to make the A-B Main final... Stadium trucks are too fast... :)
I think most stadium trucks are 13.5 I believe. If the slash is brushed then yes it would be hard to make the final mains.
If it is brushless and depending on the kv motor than it might make it to the finals. Also the slash with the HCG chassis is really not good handling.
 
I am out racing at the PDX rc underground track and it’s awesome. Pictures below used to be a 4x4 sc10 from team associated and now it’s a 2wd buggy View attachment 156933
Nice. Did you just convert that to a buggy? What electronics and batteries are you using?
 
Nice. Did you just convert that to a buggy? What electronics and batteries are you using?
Yeah I just converted it to a buggy and I am using spektrum stuff at the moment 😂😂
Yeah I just converted it to a buggy and I am using spektrum stuff at the moment 😂😂
I’m not using a shorty yet I am using a lectron pro 3s 5200mAh and also a Amazon hoovo 2s 5200mAh.
 
Yeah I just converted it to a buggy and I am using spektrum stuff at the moment 😂😂

I’m not using a shorty yet I am using a lectron pro 3s 5200mAh and also a Amazon hoovo 2s 5200mAh.
I have that same hoovo for my slash and rustler. It's a ok battery. According to @Greywolf74 hoovo tests, they aren't good batteries. Once all of my Amazon lipos to bad I will upgrade to something better like CHNL, SMC, Promatch racing, Lipherior lipos. I have 2 hoovo 5200 2s and 1 youme power 6200 2s. I also have 2 SMC 7200 stick packs with 5mm inboard. The 2 SMC ones I am about to retire since they are 6 years old and my uncle used them in his 4x4 sct.
I heard that spektrum stuff is ok. I seen people use it in a lot of different cars. I just wanna try to stick with hobbywing because my uncle has the programmer and I know it will be reliable. Never had any issues with my hobbywing systems so far.
So tonight on the B74 I got the caster hat bushings in the front steering hubs. I also figured out the rear axle pin issue. The hex wasn't fully seated on the pin and it is all better now. I put in a extra servo I had laying around. It was my spare OMG 20 kg full metal gear servo. Also put in my Radiolink link Rx. I also got the front sway bars done. There is a mount that I have to screw into the diff case but I didn't see it in any of the bags so I'll order a new gear box to get that mount thing. Also the kit includes plastic servo horns but I got a aluminum one from amain. It also looks like I have to dial in the camber and toe more since it is all over the place right now.
Planning to continue the build tonight and try to get the shocks and rear sway bars done. Possibly might get it as a roller tonight.
Also noticed that both steering ball cups on the hubs are rubbing on the wheel. Not worried about it now but will fix it later.
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Late night wrenching is anywhere from 11:30 to 2:30 in the morning. It is actually fun just working at night because it is all quiet and peaceful. Here is my rules. Yes I throw tools (only my cheap tools not expensive ones) and I do yell at the car. Lol.
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Some more late night wrenching. Got the rear sway bars in and I found those mounts for the sway bars so that's good. Also installed the battery strap which is kinda weird. Inorder to get the battery in and out I guess you have to take out a screw and nut. I might leave my battery in the car to charge? I would rather put it in my charging bag tho. Also installed the Protek high speed and high voltage fan and that thing is fast and loud for sure. Didn't get a video of it but I will in the morning. I also trimmed out the body and wing a few days ago. The body is light weight and I did a good job trimming. For the wing, I didn't. I am getting a new wing and curved scissors. The cheap Amazon curved lexan scissors I had were very hard to cut with and takes a lot of hand strength to move the scissors. I threw that away and getting a protek or Jconcepts one on amain. Tomorrow I plan to get this as a roller by doing the shocks. Now I just need some wire routing help.

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hey DavidB. Build looking good. Late night wrenching rules, two thumbs up. :thumbs-up: :thumbs-up:

May I recommend the Kyosho Lexan scissor? My pair going on twenty years use now. They hold an edge and cut clean. Good Japanese steel. Link at bottom of this post.

I'd discourage charging a LiPo in the chassis if at all possible. Many racetracks and orgs disallow that for safety reasons. Removal and bag charging is the better method. But feel your frustrations on the manu's decision to go bolt-in battery. For them, it's all about saving weight for the competition models.

Kyosho scissor

Good Luck. Cheers. 'AC'
 
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Is it just me or was the first video with the wheels on looking funny because when he turned with the wheels on the a-arms got raised up? 🤣
Is it just me or was the first video with the wheels on looking funny because when he turned with the wheels on the a-arms got raised up? 🤣
hey David, do you want to play Forza Horizon 5 together at some point? My Xbox username is SkywalkerLJD. I would love to play it with you because I don't really have any friends who like to play it or they can't get it for free from Xbox game pass.
 
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