Team Associated B74.1D 4WD Buggy build

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DavidB1126

Team Bomb Pop
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Location
Baltimore
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Crawling
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This is my B74.1D in the making! Got the car for my birthday. Got the D version because of my local clay track and Beach Rc when I go in vacation. There is a few carpet tracks so if needed I can change over tires, slipper clutch and some other things. Electronics I plan to put in is a Hobbywing xerun xr10 Pro with a mod motor and a savox or protek servo. Pro match racing LiPo shorty battery. For radio I will start out with my Radiolink RC4GS V3 and upgrade to a mid range futaba or sanwa. Stayed up late tonight building the diffs so I bagged up all the parts and I'll start back up in the morning. On this thread you'll see the build, and some track/running footage and some racing.

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I did receive some missing parts. Some missing parts were a diff shim and a certain screw. Not worried about the screw but will order some extra shims and other parts.
 
Good beginning, David. Looking good.

Like the P-L pad. Much easier seeing parts against a blue background instead of black. Need to check one of those out. Good layout on the workstation too. Everything falling readily to hand.

'AC'
 
Good beginning, David. Looking good.

Like the P-L pad. Much easier seeing parts against a blue background instead of black. Need to check one of those out. Good layout on the workstation too. Everything falling readily to hand.

'AC'
Planning on getting another pit mat. The one I have right now ain't looking too good. Got a couple burn out marks from the mini b on it and not that fresh anymore. And also since I'll be at the track more and more with another pit mat I don't have to tear down my home workbench and set it all back up at the track.
Might even get one of those little magnetic screw/part trays.
 
Planning on getting another pit mat. The one I have right now ain't looking too good. Got a couple burn out marks from the mini b on it and not that fresh anymore. And also since I'll be at the track more and more with another pit mat I don't have to tear down my home workbench and set it all back up at the track.
Might even get one of those little magnetic screw/part trays.

Coming along nicely, I highly recommend the magnetic tray, so much easier to keep track of wayward screws.
 
Well was assembling the front steering and drivetrain and snapped 2 heads of the screw for the wheel hex. So I'll be ordering a pack of those and one of the axle has way to much play in it so going to order a pack of shims for those. Also will be ordering the wheels and tires so I can have it on wheels and roll until I get electronics.

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Got the center diff done. Skipped over the turn buckles since I'm going to get my uncle to help with that. Turnbuckles are hard so assemble. Also since of those snapped hexes I didn't put in the rear driveshafts.

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"Turnbuckles are hard so assemble." Quote taken out of context.

Yeah, I've found a third hand useful in assembling turnbuckles. Do you have a bench vice? Something you can secure either the turnbuckle end or the rod? Eliminating one of the two variables in the assembly helps a lot. Makes it much easier. For what it's worth-that's what has worked for me.

Also, at least for a right-hand thread, have secured the rod end in a vise and pre-threaded it with an allen hex screw prior to inserting the turnbuckle rod. Helps at least with one of the two efforts.

Looking good. 'AC'
 
Turnbuckles are a pain. But these tools make them a breeze. I designed and printed these for the Ryft build. But you might be able to come up with something similar using a small socket and a grinder.
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I feel like I haven't put enough fluid in the diffs. For the diffs I just used what it came with. The manual said to use 100k fluid in all diffs. Maybe I did put enough. We'll see when I get it driving. Maybe because the drive line is just so free and smooth? Ok so the front and rear diffs are 100k. The manual says to use 200k in the center but I think I used 100k because I was not paying attention. Oh well Ill rebuild it someday so it's alright.
Going to continue the build Tuesday or Wednesday cause I got a lot of schoolwork to catch up on.
Also found this ball cup wrench that might be useful too Protek ball cup wrench
 
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Lucky. Here in the Baltimore area we rarely get snow/a big blizzard or storm. The last time we had a blizzard was 2016 I think.
Dang. I can't go out and drive my truck though because my 3s negative wire came unsoldered from the connector.
 
Alrighty so here is my amain order that ill be doing tonight.
I will be ordering:
Team Associated 2.2 Front and Rear wheels (white) 12mm hex (These are for the B64 but most of B64 parts are the same with the B74/B74.1/B74.2
Team Associated 5.0mm factory team aluminum wheel hexes
Protek Tire glue and bands
Jconcepts Blue aluminum 12mm shock caps (Kit came with plastic so I am pretty sure I would need these in the future)
Team associated 48p pinion gear 3.17mm bore (getting the 20t to start out. I'll down or upgrade down the road when tuning)
Team associated 20mm long servo horn 25t spline. (They offer a 18.5mm long one but I think the 20mm would be better with steering)


Thats all for now. Might order some more spare parts for this build. Maybe might get a slipper conversion kit just in case (but it is expensive so might wait)
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Also might get some other parts for the slash or rustler.
 
Here is the battery that I might be getting. I am trying to stick with normal LiPo but if I want to I can do LiHV. Here is the lipo i found: Promatch racing 2s 5000ma shorty

Also put in my cart tires and that ball cup wrench

For tires I went with the Jconcepts Ellipse Silver compound. Also getting proline closed foams

Also added a motor fan. It is a protek high speed fan.
 
I was watching a video last night about the same kit I have. I knew I did something wrong. And I did something wrong. I had the motor mount on the wrong way and that's why the center diff did not stay in place and the bearings kept falling out. Good thing I caught it!
 
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