SCX24 Damage Control

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BeardRub

Eastbound and Down
Messages
21
Reaction score
29
Location
West Cost, USA
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Crawling
  4. Scale Builder
  5. Flying
Hello friends. The forum is inviting me to make a build thread, so I think I might as well ask for some advice here on the terrible "upgrades" I've committed against my Deadbolt. I've installed:

Treal Aluminum Steering link
Coda Aluminum Suspension links
EcoPower Steering Servo (I think this is a shade too large and hits the chassis bars, thinking I need to dremel the ears down)
Treal Beadlock wheels
RC4WD Aftermarket tires
Hot Racing Multi-option shock mounts front and rear
Hot Racing Servo tray
Hot Racing skid plate / motor mount

The end result was a truck so stiff in the leg that it fell over backwards at the slightest bump. I have since moved to the weaker Treal springs, but those almost appear to be too weak. It seems I always come to regret changing shocks.

I'll include pictures, although I don't know if there is much to see aside from a Deadbolt's shocks stretch to the limit. Any advice on getting some smooth operation back would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I'd really like to upgrade the body. I believe I saw a Power Wagon somewhere that looked really impressive. I'm certainly no artist, and my lexan cutting leaves a lot to be desired, so I'm hoping to find a cut body, I suppose. Any suggestions or examples anyone would like to share would be appreciated. I'm half tempted to order one of the new SCX24 broncos and swap what parts I can over, sort of start again, but I'm calling that a last resort (aka clearly just an excuse to get another one).

Thanks y'all.
IMG_20220314_102712.jpg
 
Love the reasoning and justification for buying another 🤣

Clearly, the shock upgrade didn't go well. When I see an SCX24 sitting jacked up on aftermarket shocks such as yours is, it tells me one thing... the sprung weight doesn't match the spring weight. Your chassis just isn't heavy enough for those springs.

And I am not sure how familiar you are with the terminology, but "droop" refers to how far compressed the shocks are with the vehicle sitting flat and level in free state. Rock crawlers tend to favor a lot of droop, to even full droop, meaning at rest, the shocks are bottomed out. The spring is just there to help push the wheel down when it rolls over a depression in the terrain.

So your problem is the vehicle weight vs the spring weight. Try this... remove all the springs and drive it and report back 😉

Oh, and a little SCX24 eye candy/inspiration (AMT 1/25 Coca Cola van body on Deadbolt chassis)...
20220404_051314.jpg

20220404_051339.jpg
20220404_051328.jpg


Oh, and yes, the Ecopower servo ears need to be shortened a smidge. At least at the top.
 
Last edited:
4 out of my 5 SCX24s are running shocks sans springs. I don't miss 'em. Keep that center of gravity low and climbing performance will significantly improve.
Those HR shocks with the stiff springs may work better with the heavier hard body Bronco.
0110221311.jpg
0110221304.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics and the replies! I'll definitely try no springs (after I fix that servo to free up the movement). That van body is a really cool idea, reminds me of monster truck shows I went to as a kid. I really appreciate y'all taking the time.
 
I use HR long travel shocks on both my deadbolt and a custom-built rock racer. They came with 3 sets of springs with each. I use the lightest possible with no issues.
@BeardRub , I assume you are talking about the servo fitting in the mount and not the servo arm hitting when its it motion?
 
Last edited:
I use HR long travel shocks on both my deadbolt and a custom-built rock racer. They came with 3 sets of springs with each. I use the lightest possible with no issues.
@BeardRub , I assume you are talking about the servo fitting in the mount and not the servo arm hitting when its it motion?
That's right, the servo seems to just barely hit the chassis rails as it's raised up with the front wheels. At first I thought it was all the excess wire that the servo has, but when I tested I realized it could only pass through if one wheel was raised first, and then it could catch on the way down.

Edit: Thanks for the note on the HR long travel, I'll give them a look.
 
They make the rigs sit a bit higher but I like that. I have HR long travel shocks on both of these rigs.

View attachment 144907
Those look really good, especially with the tires you've got on them. I really don't mind a high stance as long as it flexes how it's supposed to. The stance you have there looks to me like an extreme mod on a full size rig, I like that look too.
 
Thanks bud. I use RC4WD Mud Slingers. I think they look great on the deadbolt. They are bigger than the stock tires.
 
I have the same Injora chassis as @Tunedpipe , but mine is set up very differently: full droop. You would think for rock crawling, you would want that high ground clearance, but here's what a droop set up is capable of.
The video doesn't really capture how steep the terrain actually is.
 
I have the same Injora chassis as @Tunedpipe , but mine is set up very differently: full droop. You would think for rock crawling, you would want that high ground clearance, but here's what a droop set up is capable of.
The video doesn't really capture how steep the terrain actually is.
That's extremely awesome, thanks. Really cool looking build. Very nice video, too, I know how hard these simple looking videos are to make. I'm looking up "full droop" so I really understand what I'm looking at, but it seems like it's a very easy thing to achieve without more parts, so I'll certainly test it out.
 
That's extremely awesome, thanks. Really cool looking build. Very nice video, too, I know how hard these simple looking videos are to make. I'm looking up "full droop" so I really understand what I'm looking at, but it seems like it's a very easy thing to achieve without more parts, so I'll certainly test it out.
The full droop set up essentially maximizes the lcg while not really sacrificing full articulation.
0127222101.jpg
0127222102c.jpg
0127222103.jpg
 
I've been running no springs in the front and stock in the rear. Lots of options to experiment with and see what works for you. That's part of the fun!
 

Similar threads

Back
Top