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Rlaarlo 1/8th 4WD Buggy Dragon Scale Knight DSK RTR/Roller/Kit

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How about this combo for the DSK roller that I plan on running on 4S? I don't a need full-featured, race-ready system; just something reliable for backyard use. I was originally looking at Hobbywing stuff but, the more I read, the more I'm shying away from it despite being happy with the two Hobbywing 2-in-1 QuicRun systems I'm running now.
Castle Monster X combo
 
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How about this combo for the DSK roller that I plan on running on 4S? I don't a need full-featured, race-ready system; just something reliable for backyard use. I was originally looking at Hobbywing stuff but, the more I read, the more I'm shying away from it despite being happy with the two Hobbywing 2-in-1 QuicRun systems I'm running now.
Castle Monster X combo

Can't go wrong with that combo, probably more powerful than the Hobbywing.

If you want reliable cheap fun, you could go with this combo.. https://www.hobbywing.com/en/products/quicrun42684274slg2
 
Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
1779033998577.webp
 
Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
View attachment 274294
Honestly, I don't think it's 'overkill'. If the ID is accurate, they should hold a bearing a lot better than just plastic, as there is no "give" (ie. plastic bends, no matter how minimal...plus, plastic can (and, eventually does) warp). With bearing movement (hopefully) eliminated, this design should also eliminate early bearing failure.

As for "possible issues", honestly, I do see the potential for one. If the insert isn't perfectly placed inside the mold, before the plastic is injected, then it would cause the insert to be off kilter, leading the bearing to also being off kilter. Thankfully, if such happened, is would be super easy to detect during the build process...first testing without center driveshafts, then with center driveshafts.

Once the center diff is installed onto the chassis (NO center driveshafts), rotate spur gear in place, by hand. Hopefully, there is no resistance. If there is, then the problem is with either the central diff, or the motor mounts assembly. Assuming there is no resistance, you can then install the Center drive shafts, connecting to Center diff to the front & rear bulkheads. Once again, rotate the spur gear (at least 2 complete rotations), and check for resistance. If the spur can be rotated multiple times without any binding or 'resistance', it's safe to assume the inserts are perfectly straight. However, if, while rotating the spur, any resistance is encountered (when there was none during the first test), then, in all probability, the inserts are not perfectly straight, and the user will need to contact or larlo for replacement bulkheads. Taking that testing one step further, so as to determine whether the problem is with both bulkheads, or with only one the same testing can be done with only the front center drive shafts, followed by only the rear Center drive shaft.
 
Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
View attachment 274294

Xray did the opposite with these steering blocks. Composite sleeves in aluminum blocks. 🤔

https://www.rcjaz.com/xray-302202-a...th-graphite-extension-plates-set-p-18735.html






 
Xray did the opposite with these steering blocks. Composite sleeves in aluminum blocks. 🤔

https://www.rcjaz.com/xray-302202-a...th-graphite-extension-plates-set-p-18735.html






1779047584134.webp

".....steering blocks enhance the stability of your vehicle, allowing for smoother turns. The composite bushings securely hold the ball bearings on both sides, ensuring a perfect fit and free movement, which extends the lifespan compared to direct aluminum installations."

That's interesting, because I was just thinking about what happens with some machined aluminum parts and bearings. You know that blown bearing thing that happens, and you're left with bearing race stuck inside machined part, then posting "Help! How the heck do I get this out?" thread. 😁 🤣🤣
 
".....steering blocks enhance the stability of your vehicle, allowing for smoother turns. The composite bushings securely hold the ball bearings on both sides, ensuring a perfect fit and free movement, which extends the lifespan compared to direct aluminum installations."

That's interesting, because I was just thinking about what happens with some machined aluminum parts and bearings. You know that blown bearing thing that happens, and you're left with bearing race stuck inside machined part, then posting "Help! How the heck do I get this out?" thread. 😁 🤣🤣
It will be interesting to see how the metal inserts work out.

Half a blown bearing is better than a whole blown bearing, right? 🤔🤣
 
Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
View attachment 274294
Arrma 6S cars have the same deal going on with their diff cases as well. Seems to work well for me thus far


As for the buggy itself, I'm quite impressed by it and am excited to see how well it races. Rlaarlo is pretty great in my experience, so I'm excited to see them moving up-market, they also have shown a couple shots of a Kraton killer based on this platform.
 
I received my DSK Kit today. Based purely on a visual inspection of the parts bags, and going over the build manual, for this being Rlaarlo's first kit, I impressed. The parts are exactly what I've come to expect from Rlaarlo: high-quality carbon-reinforced plastic for plastic parts needing rigidity, durable plastic for plastic parts not requiring rigidity, quality machining on machined aluminum & steel parts, and precision cuts carbon fiber parts. As this is their first kit, I was not sure how good/bad the manual might be...but, although it is completely B&W, it is a very well put together manual. I can't yet claim to know whether the scale drawings are accurate to scale, but they do appear to be.

20260519_120356.webp
 
I received my DSK Kit today. Based purely on a visual inspection of the parts bags, and going over the build manual, for this being Rlaarlo's first kit, I impressed. The parts are exactly what I've come to expect from Rlaarlo: high-quality carbon-reinforced plastic for plastic parts needing rigidity, durable plastic for plastic parts not requiring rigidity, quality machining on machined aluminum & steel parts, and precision cuts carbon fiber parts. As this is their first kit, I was not sure how good/bad the manual might be...but, although it is completely B&W, it is a very well put together manual. I can't yet claim to know whether the scale drawings are accurate to scale, but they do appear to be.

View attachment 274421
You're one step ahead of me, my mates hasn't arrived yet.. :rolleyes:
@Panther6834 .. what are you going to use for electronics.??
 
I was slipping into analysis paralysis trying to decide on a power system for my DSK roller. I finally threw caution to the wind and purchased a Hobby Wing combo. A big one. The EZRun Max8 G2S Brushless ESC and 4278SD G2R Brushless Motor Combo.

Rlaarlo offers a sensorless 4278 motor for the DSK but with a slightly lower kv rating: 2050kv vs. the Hobby Wing's 2250kv. I'll be running a 4S battery so it doesn't seem that ridiculously over-powered.

I have an older sister who sometimes advises exercising "moderation in all things." I like to respond with, "Too much is not enough!" Ideally, I'd love to follow up that statement by shotgunning a 16oz. PBR and then crushing the can against my forehead, for effect.
:hehe:

My DSK should be here soon. It was shipped on the 12th. I have the ESC/motor combo, a 55kg servo and a DumboRC receiver ready to install.
 
I was slipping into analysis paralysis trying to decide on a power system for my DSK roller. I finally threw caution to the wind and purchased a Hobby Wing combo. A big one. The EZRun Max8 G2S Brushless ESC and 4278SD G2R Brushless Motor Combo.

Rlaarlo offers a sensorless 4278 motor for the DSK but with a slightly lower kv rating: 2050kv vs. the Hobby Wing's 2250kv. I'll be running a 4S battery so it doesn't seem that ridiculously over-powered.

I have an older sister who sometimes advises exercising "moderation in all things." I like to respond with, "Too much is not enough!" Ideally, I'd love to follow up that statement by shotgunning a 16oz. PBR and then crushing the can against my forehead, for effect.
:hehe:

My DSK should be here soon. It was shipped on the 12th. I have the ESC/motor combo, a 55kg servo and a DumboRC receiver ready to install.
Nothing wrong with putting a truggy size motor in a buggy. If it fits, it ships... err... send it :banana: Who does that? 😁
 
I was slipping into analysis paralysis trying to decide on a power system for my DSK roller. I finally threw caution to the wind and purchased a Hobby Wing combo. A big one. The EZRun Max8 G2S Brushless ESC and 4278SD G2R Brushless Motor Combo.

Rlaarlo offers a sensorless 4278 motor for the DSK but with a slightly lower kv rating: 2050kv vs. the Hobby Wing's 2250kv. I'll be running a 4S battery so it doesn't seem that ridiculously over-powered.
If you're not racing it, there's nothing wrong with a 2250kv motor. Some have gone even higher. Besides, you can always gear down. Just understand that, by going with the 4278, you'll have to go with the rear-motor/single-battery configuration. The better-balanced front-motor/saddlepack configuration requires a motor no longer than 74mm.
 
If you're not racing it, there's nothing wrong with a 2250kv motor. Some have gone even higher. Besides, you can always gear down. Just understand that, by going with the 4278, you'll have to go with the rear-motor/single-battery configuration. The better-balanced front-motor/saddlepack configuration requires a motor no longer than 74mm.
That was considered before making my purchase. I think the imbalance issue is more imagined than proven. Check out the numbers. This may be an over-simplification but I think is working looking at.

The 4278 motor weighs 465g. My 4S 5200 batteries weigh 640g. Without considering the other components, that would be a side-to-side imbalance of 175g, or about 6 oz. Almost a half pound... sounds like a lot.

A similar capacity 2S battery weighs 315g. So in the saddle pack configuration, the motor plus a battery on one side would weigh 780g and the battery on the other side just 315g. That's a side-to-side imbalance of 465g or about 16.5 oz. More than two and a half times that of the rear motor/single tray set up.

There is some diagonal and front-to-rear imbalance to look at too but I haven't tried to crunch the numbers. I would guess it would also be much less than the imbalance of the saddle-pack configuration.
 
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That was considered before making my purchase. I think the imbalance issue is more imagined than proven. Check out the numbers. This may be an over-simplification but I think is working looking at.

The 4278 motor weighs 465g. My 4S 5200 batteries weigh 640g. Without considering the other components, that would be a side-to-side imbalance of 175g, or about 6 oz. Almost a half pound... sounds like a lot.

A similar capacity 2S battery weighs 315g. So in the saddle pack configuration, the motor plus a battery on one side would weigh 780g and the battery on the other side just 315g. That's a side-to-side imbalance of 465g or about 16.5 oz. More than two and a half times that of the rear motor/single tray set up.

There is some diagonal and front-to-rear imbalance to look at too but I haven't tried to crunch the numbers. I would guess it would also be much less than the imbalance of the saddle-pack configuration.
You're forgetting the weights of the ESC & servo. Another factor is the lower COG. With a larger single Lipo, the COG is higher.
 
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