- Messages
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- In a holler on a lake, Chelsea, MI
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
I stole a lot of business in my career from bigger players just based on customer service. 
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Exactly. Something that Horizon Hobby appears to have "lost sight of" over the past several years.I stole a lot of business in my career from bigger players just based on customer service.![]()
I’d say it’s more likely that the Rlaarlo stuff is XC based and not Hobbywing ?!?!I wouldn't doubt that Hobbywing has a hand in helping manufacture Rlaarlo's motors/ESCs, but...
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How about this combo for the DSK roller that I plan on running on 4S? I don't a need full-featured, race-ready system; just something reliable for backyard use. I was originally looking at Hobbywing stuff but, the more I read, the more I'm shying away from it despite being happy with the two Hobbywing 2-in-1 QuicRun systems I'm running now.
Castle Monster X combo
Honestly, I don't think it's 'overkill'. If the ID is accurate, they should hold a bearing a lot better than just plastic, as there is no "give" (ie. plastic bends, no matter how minimal...plus, plastic can (and, eventually does) warp). With bearing movement (hopefully) eliminated, this design should also eliminate early bearing failure.Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
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Differential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
View attachment 274294
".....steering blocks enhance the stability of your vehicle, allowing for smoother turns. The composite bushings securely hold the ball bearings on both sides, ensuring a perfect fit and free movement, which extends the lifespan compared to direct aluminum installations."Xray did the opposite with these steering blocks. Composite sleeves in aluminum blocks.
https://www.rcjaz.com/xray-302202-a...th-graphite-extension-plates-set-p-18735.html
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It will be interesting to see how the metal inserts work out.".....steering blocks enhance the stability of your vehicle, allowing for smoother turns. The composite bushings securely hold the ball bearings on both sides, ensuring a perfect fit and free movement, which extends the lifespan compared to direct aluminum installations."
That's interesting, because I was just thinking about what happens with some machined aluminum parts and bearings. You know that blown bearing thing that happens, and you're left with bearing race stuck inside machined part, then posting "Help! How the heck do I get this out?" thread.![]()
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Arrma 6S cars have the same deal going on with their diff cases as well. Seems to work well for me thus farDifferential pinion gears already run inside of bearings (that are hopefully precise) so I'm not quite sure what "small bevel gear runout" means. If the tolerances of the inserts are good, I am all for giving things a try. Anybody have thoughts on the gearbox inserts? Overkill? Possible issue?
View attachment 274294
You're one step ahead of me, my mates hasn't arrived yet..I received my DSK Kit today. Based purely on a visual inspection of the parts bags, and going over the build manual, for this being Rlaarlo's first kit, I impressed. The parts are exactly what I've come to expect from Rlaarlo: high-quality carbon-reinforced plastic for plastic parts needing rigidity, durable plastic for plastic parts not requiring rigidity, quality machining on machined aluminum & steel parts, and precision cuts carbon fiber parts. As this is their first kit, I was not sure how good/bad the manual might be...but, although it is completely B&W, it is a very well put together manual. I can't yet claim to know whether the scale drawings are accurate to scale, but they do appear to be.
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Initially, I will be using the Spektrum ESC & motor out of an Arrma Typhon 6S. After that, have not yet decided - for the ESC, possibly Hobbywing, possibly Castle Cobra 8, possibly XC E8.You're one step ahead of me, my mates hasn't arrived yet..
@Panther6834 .. what are you going to use for electronics.??

Nothing wrong with putting a truggy size motor in a buggy. If it fits, it ships... err... send itI was slipping into analysis paralysis trying to decide on a power system for my DSK roller. I finally threw caution to the wind and purchased a Hobby Wing combo. A big one. The EZRun Max8 G2S Brushless ESC and 4278SD G2R Brushless Motor Combo.
Rlaarlo offers a sensorless 4278 motor for the DSK but with a slightly lower kv rating: 2050kv vs. the Hobby Wing's 2250kv. I'll be running a 4S battery so it doesn't seem that ridiculously over-powered.
I have an older sister who sometimes advises exercising "moderation in all things." I like to respond with, "Too much is not enough!" Ideally, I'd love to follow up that statement by shotgunning a 16oz. PBR and then crushing the can against my forehead, for effect.
My DSK should be here soon. It was shipped on the 12th. I have the ESC/motor combo, a 55kg servo and a DumboRC receiver ready to install.
Who does that? If you're not racing it, there's nothing wrong with a 2250kv motor. Some have gone even higher. Besides, you can always gear down. Just understand that, by going with the 4278, you'll have to go with the rear-motor/single-battery configuration. The better-balanced front-motor/saddlepack configuration requires a motor no longer than 74mm.I was slipping into analysis paralysis trying to decide on a power system for my DSK roller. I finally threw caution to the wind and purchased a Hobby Wing combo. A big one. The EZRun Max8 G2S Brushless ESC and 4278SD G2R Brushless Motor Combo.
Rlaarlo offers a sensorless 4278 motor for the DSK but with a slightly lower kv rating: 2050kv vs. the Hobby Wing's 2250kv. I'll be running a 4S battery so it doesn't seem that ridiculously over-powered.
That was considered before making my purchase. I think the imbalance issue is more imagined than proven. Check out the numbers. This may be an over-simplification but I think is working looking at.If you're not racing it, there's nothing wrong with a 2250kv motor. Some have gone even higher. Besides, you can always gear down. Just understand that, by going with the 4278, you'll have to go with the rear-motor/single-battery configuration. The better-balanced front-motor/saddlepack configuration requires a motor no longer than 74mm.
You're forgetting the weights of the ESC & servo. Another factor is the lower COG. With a larger single Lipo, the COG is higher.That was considered before making my purchase. I think the imbalance issue is more imagined than proven. Check out the numbers. This may be an over-simplification but I think is working looking at.
The 4278 motor weighs 465g. My 4S 5200 batteries weigh 640g. Without considering the other components, that would be a side-to-side imbalance of 175g, or about 6 oz. Almost a half pound... sounds like a lot.
A similar capacity 2S battery weighs 315g. So in the saddle pack configuration, the motor plus a battery on one side would weigh 780g and the battery on the other side just 315g. That's a side-to-side imbalance of 465g or about 16.5 oz. More than two and a half times that of the rear motor/single tray set up.
There is some diagonal and front-to-rear imbalance to look at too but I haven't tried to crunch the numbers. I would guess it would also be much less than the imbalance of the saddle-pack configuration.