Cross RC WT4 Rollback Wrecker

Here is a video of the truck.


I changed the wheels, because I did not like the original wheels. The original Cross sound module was unavailable, so I went with a Beier SFR-1 sound module and I'm so glad that I did. It is highly configurable. I used a FrSky X18RS with an X8R receiver. I used three winch controllers. One for the winch and one for each motion of the bed. I went with the type of winch controllers for the bed, because of their ability to kill power to the motor when they sense a current spike. I heard of folks stripping out the gears and/or burning out their bed motors, so these will keep that from happening. I hid most of the wiring and made my own wiring harness and ran almost all wiring through mesh loom. I used small locking plugs at each area of the truck that may need to be disassembled in the future, i.e., the bed and the hood. I put the receiver and the two bed ESC's under the seat and mounted the sound module/main ESC in the passenger's side tool box. I rewired the rear tail lights, so the turn signal is combined with the tail lights/brakes and used a dedicated switch for the turn signals. I do not like to tie my turn signals in with my steering servo, because I hate seeing it blink every time I am maneuvering the truck around a tight area. I slowed the steering servo down, so it looks more realistic when turning. I blackened out the back of the cab light mount, so it does not light up the cab with the backs of the LEDs. I replaced the very noisy front faux cooling fan for the engine with a small PC fan. It pulls MUCH less current now and is very quiet. I used a BitRC lightbar, because I thought the real rotators looks better for this era of truck (1999). I put diamond plate on the bed, so as it is dragging a wrecked car onto the bed, the paint doesn't get scratched up. Since the video, I put some screw through the tops of the bed rails, so they can be used a anchor points for a snatch block. I lined each side rail with screws in all of the openings (five on each side) and put two turnbuckles on the very end of the bed (one of each side). This really makes it look scale when pulling a car from an odd angle.

I wrestled with how I was going to install the rear window. The cab had lights that needed to be glued in after paint and I could not glue the window in before paint, so I scrape the paint away and used 3M industrial double-sided adhesive tape. Once it sticks, it's stuck. The plus side it that is has a little seal that looks like a real window seal. After I installed the window, I used a hobby knife to cut away the excess.

I tried to find wheels that were close to the ones in the pictures. The real truck wheels are from a FedEx truck that delivered something to our house and they seemed like I would be able to find some 1/10th scale that were similar and I did. They ended up being pretty close.