Restoration Project #8 - Huge Bundle of HPI, Kyosho and HSP.

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Did you end up getting the brushless variant yourself? or still working one your cousins one if I remember correctly?

I finished that build and gifted it for Christmas just a few days ago! Went with a Truggy build, 2700kv 3650 motor, 60A ESC, 13/48 gearing, and a 7.2V nimh pack to make their battery management foolproof & fireproof... and now that I have enough spare parts, I'm tempted to make an onroad to go with it.
 
The motors and esc in your builds? Are they stock, or did you bulk buy something in particular to use with HSP?
Would love to see you do a on-road build.
Both are V1 old style suspension models, I am guessing.

I have old RS4 fuel tank, which has a crack in it, going to try and repair this, always used to throw them away when they had a crack in them.
Will try and melt it first with a soldering iron.
Have you ever tried this?
 
I'm trying a few different things out - the stock HSP brushless setup worked nicely out of the box, and was very reasonable at $45. Even has a detailed PDF manual and tuning options for LVC, "punch", etc.

I'm trying an even cheaper setup for the onroad, it was only $28 for the motor and ESC... we'll see how it does.

Both are V1 old style suspension models, I am guessing.

Yup, that's why I'm kind of putting them together to give away; I'd like to make my whole RC garage pivot-ball based, I bought these as nitros before the difference was clear to me. I'm also probably not going to be running them on anything beefier than 7.2V nimh stick packs to limit breakage.

I envy the nitros with built-in primers on the fuel tank. I wonder why it's not more common on new models. Good luck with the weld, plastic can be weird about cooperating or forming a brittle bond that never seals right.
 
I'm trying a few different things out - the stock HSP brushless setup worked nicely out of the box, and was very reasonable at $45. Even has a detailed PDF manual and tuning options for LVC, "punch", etc.

I'm trying an even cheaper setup for the onroad, it was only $28 for the motor and ESC... we'll see how it does.



Yup, that's why I'm kind of putting them together to give away; I'd like to make my whole RC garage pivot-ball based, I bought these as nitros before the difference was clear to me. I'm also probably not going to be running them on anything beefier than 7.2V nimh stick packs to limit breakage.

I envy the nitros with built-in primers on the fuel tank. I wonder why it's not more common on new models. Good luck with the weld, plastic can be weird about cooperating or forming a brittle bond that never seals right.

See, this is where I go the opposite way, for me a primer on a tank is just another future "air leak" point, and it only takes a few secs to put your finger over the exhaust stinger and primer that way. They just look too flimsy and a matter of time before they break.

Just tried that car again, shifted twice then back to square zero again, pissing me off, I really am trying to avoid taking the tranny out.
Grub screw hole thread looks fine, I dont think its coming out because its damaged.
This time I cleaned the thread and grub with contact cleaner, as it may have been oily, so thread lock was not grabbing on.
Also, this time I used green thread lock, which is even stronger.
Now I have to wait another day for it to dry damn it.... haha
But, I have a feeling I will be pulling that tranny out, and fixing it properly.

I got offered a Nitro 4 Tec 3.3 to buy, a neighbour had one, which he crashed on day one long ago and just left it sitting in a garage.
Keep an eye for my next resto project :)
 
See, this is where I go the opposite way, for me a primer on a tank is just another future "air leak" point, and it only takes a few secs to put your finger over the exhaust stinger and primer that way. They just look too flimsy and a matter of time before they break.

I figured it was something like that which kept them from catching on.

I had a 4-tec roller on the shelf a while back and was collecting parts for a rebuild, I ultimately sold it when I realized I didn't have anywhere pebble-free enough to run a belt-drive vehicle, good luck with it if you pick one up.
 
I figured it was something like that which kept them from catching on.

I had a 4-tec roller on the shelf a while back and was collecting parts for a rebuild, I ultimately sold it when I realized I didn't have anywhere pebble-free enough to run a belt-drive vehicle, good luck with it if you pick one up.

And the Fish is running ok now, green loctite seems to have done the thing.
Shifts every time, still I will buy a spare tranny box.

I got the 4 tec for $50, need to go and pick it up. All I know is that it went agains the curb, I will keep you posted.
Pretty sure these are discontinued, so spare parts will probably not be easy to find.
 
@tudordewolf

Hey dude, heres an idea, something I have done a few times already and it worked a treat!

So, instead of O ring, I acquired some, how should I call it, its like memory foam, which does not dissolve in nitro fuel.
I cut this to size, and punch the necessary holes, and install in the tank lid as per pics.
This works absolutely amazing and in my opinion is even better than O ring, as the fuel tank lid with an O ring can often "pop" out, even from vibration.
With this method the tank stays sealed even with a slight pressure from the spring, because the tank lip molds itself into the foam.
Hope that makes sense.
Not sure if you were aware, but some tanks actually came with this foam from the factory, not sure if its Kyosho or HPI, but a few tanks I had came with it, which gave an idea in the first place.

No more air leak from this tank lid.

sealedtanklid1.jpg


sealedtanklid2.jpg


sealedtanklid4.jpg
 
@tudordewolf

Hey dude, heres an idea, something I have done a few times already and it worked a treat!

So, instead of O ring, I acquired some, how should I call it, its like memory foam, which does not dissolve in nitro fuel.
I cut this to size, and punch the necessary holes, and install in the tank lid as per pics.
This works absolutely amazing and in my opinion is even better than O ring, as the fuel tank lid with an O ring can often "pop" out, even from vibration.
With this method the tank stays sealed even with a slight pressure from the spring, because the tank lip molds itself into the foam.
Hope that makes sense.
Not sure if you were aware, but some tanks actually came with this foam from the factory, not sure if its Kyosho or HPI, but a few tanks I had came with it, which gave an idea in the first place.

No more air leak from this tank lid.

View attachment 157819

View attachment 157820

View attachment 157823

oh that's awesome, I may do that to all my vehicles. Would you happen to have a link/name for the material?

It also solves a secondary sealing issue between the two pieces of the tank cap, since the o-ring places the seal "below" that gap where it's just counting on the flatness of the aluminum to form an airtight seal...
 
oh that's awesome, I may do that to all my vehicles. Would you happen to have a link/name for the material?

It also solves a secondary sealing issue between the two pieces of the tank cap, since the o-ring places the seal "below" that gap where it's just counting on the flatness of the aluminum to form an airtight seal...
Sorry, I do not, they were throwing this stuff away at work, so I grabbed it, there is no label or any sort.

If the pic can help here it is, I might find out where they used to source it, if even they remember.

sealedtanklid5.jpg
 
That's enough a hint, just browsing mcmaster-carr "gaskets/foam" gives me a few guesses as to what it could be, maybe oil-resistant buna-n in 1/16"?

Now to find some for cheap, they only sell it in $80 sheets and don't have any right now...

Yep, does appear to be similar.
To be honest, I had no idea the one I use is oil and fuel resistant, until I tested it on a RS4 for a while, and it just wouldn't dissolve. Bingo!

I am still having issues getting that Ffish to go straight, just tends to turn on either side, but linkage is tight, and I tried like 4 different servos.
Annoying, maybe issues is in turnbuckles? not equally adjusted.
I purchased a Kyosho FW05 lamborghini yesterday, another resto thread comig up!
 
It sorta looks like neoprene. But I am not sure if neoprene is oil resistant. I do know they make wetsuits out of it.

But after a quick googly...

Neoprene is celebrated for its resistance to petroleum-based concoctions. This includes many greases, solvents, and oils. It can also withstand methyl and ethyl alcohols, certain salt mixtures, and some alkaline solutions.Aug 1, 2022
 
Wow, what a beast!
Thank you!



@tudordewolf
I am just about to receive the Force 18 engine, which I plan to install on the Flying Fish model.
I have heard good things about it, and it should be bit more gruntier than VX18 which I have already removed and sold.
I found VX to be sluggish after all, and slow on acceleration.
Was actually after SH18, then seller was out of stock, I believe these two are indentical?
 
Thank you!



@tudordewolf
I am just about to receive the Force 18 engine, which I plan to install on the Flying Fish model.
I have heard good things about it, and it should be bit more gruntier than VX18 which I have already removed and sold.
I found VX to be sluggish after all, and slow on acceleration.

Oh, nice! I picked one up but haven't installed it yet, the quality looks good. I'm 99% sure the current Kyosho engines are re-badged Force engines, so it should be pretty reliable.

The VX-18 has nice all-around traits, and it is exactly what it needs to be for an entry level engine - cheap. It leaves room for improvement and it's nice to discover how much more performance is out there. I noticed much better fuel consumption out of my Thunder Tiger powered one, for example.

I left a VX-18 in my c-link flying fish for low-effort, low-stress bashing. Fires up easily and doesn't quit.
 
Oh, nice! I picked one up but haven't installed it yet, the quality looks good. I'm 99% sure the current Kyosho engines are re-badged Force engines, so it should be pretty reliable.

The VX-18 has nice all-around traits, and it is exactly what it needs to be for an entry level engine - cheap. It leaves room for improvement and it's nice to discover how much more performance is out there. I noticed much better fuel consumption out of my Thunder Tiger powered one, for example.

I left a VX-18 in my c-link flying fish for low-effort, low-stress bashing. Fires up easily and doesn't quit.

I have to say, that VX was one of the best engines I owned, and would recommended it to anyone.
Super easy to tune and runs real good.

One thing I noticed about Kyosho engines (in my case GXR15) is that they are extremely fuel efficient, I don't know how Kyosho achieved this, but I had a constant feeling I was running lean, because a tank would last me twice as long as HPI, HSP or TRX.
Then I got my 2nd GXR15, 3rd.....5th and they all behaved the same, then I was sure their design is a bit different, maybe sleeve ports? No idea.
 
I found VX to be sluggish after all, and slow on acceleration.

Speaking of, I took my Thunder Tiger Evo .12-powered Flying Fish out again today, hit my new personal best! I think the new body gave it those last 2mph, it sits very low on the car, as you can see. Then the clutch spring broke. I think I'm going to switch it to torsion springs & shoes, Kyosho-style.

Screenshot_20230415_145138_RC Gears.jpg


It started at 39mph. New engine took it to 45, new clutch bell to 48, and a new body to 50. That was all on 20% nitro, 12% oil sidewinder "race blend" from Morgan Fuels.

20230415_145200.jpg


Pretty snazzy for $20 on Aliexpress, here.
 
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Speaking of, I took my Thunder Tiger Evo .12-powered Flying Fish out again today, hit my new personal best! I think the new body gave it those last 2mph, it sits very low on the car, as you can see. Then the clutch spring broke. I think I'm going to switch it to torsion springs & shoes, Kyosho-style.

View attachment 163686

It started at 39mph. New engine took it to 45, new clutch bell to 48, and a new body to 50. That was all on 20% nitro, 12% oil sidewinder "race blend" from Morgan Fuels.

View attachment 163689

Pretty snazzy for $20 on Aliexpress, here.
I am glad you pushed it to go even faster, that's what this hobby is all about.
So, which clutch bell did you use? Did you also have to change the spurs?

Thanks
 
I am glad you pushed it to go even faster, that's what this hobby is all about.
So, which clutch bell did you use? Did you also have to change the spurs?

Thanks

Same spurs @ 44/39, with an 18/23 clutch bell instead of the stock 16/21. Just about 10% faster.
 
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