New HPI Savage X 4.6

[Nitro Nerd]

One other way to look at this: all the guys I know who have engine sponsorship work very closely with the manufacturers. The manufacturers have a strong interest in ensuring the engines lifespan. and teach how to properly maintain the engine (they would know more than 99.9% people). There is not much of a market for those who purchase $400 engines on a monthly basis so Unlike other companies, these go head to head, so people actually see it and not just read about it. And I have learned the only way to judge an engines power is to directly compare it against another one.

 

[bobaloohoo]

Okay, so with all due respect I have to say this is probably the most inaccurate thing I've ever read on the Internet with respect to this hobby.

You have basically said "racers don't know how to properly take care of their engines" and/or "they don't care about the longevity if their engines"... Or did I misread that? Not sure why there always has to be a delineation.I realize there is somewhat of an 'anti-racing faction' on this forum. I'm basing it on statements such as this. I've yet to see any racers on here bad-mouth bashers so would ask that we try not to categorize and instead just be nitro heads. ;-)

My son and I both bash and race. We love both equally (me probably the former) Why does one have to be one or the other? Seems to me there is a right way to take care of an engine and.....

What I can tell is you is that as we entered the race scene, I found it to be the exact opposite of what you are saying. I found those who race nitro engines to be the ones who best have their pulse on how to properly break in and tune engines. I'm not the only person whose had that experience. Not sure where you race, but I don't know ANY guys who change engines month to month---and we have factory drivers at our tracks here whom I know for a fact big name sponsorships and allowed x number of engines but they keep the same engine. Who do you know that changes engines month to month? If you cannot tell me anyone, then at least tell us who you know that has had a decreased life span of an engine because they heat-cycled it...or did it in a way that you disagree with. Guys, we need to be very careful about blanket statements like this because people new to the hobby get very confused

In fact, I cannot think of a single 'racer' who ruined or decreased the life-span of his engine because they 'run their engine to the moon'. However, I know a lot of so called 'gurus' who only bash and have popped multiple engines because they have it all figured out and don't want to learn from anyone. In fact, the times I've heard things such as this it's because someone has not taken the time to properly learn how to tune, and when they see other engines outputting REAL power they immediately think think something is wrong.

The goal of tuning is to get the engine optimized, correct? By that you want the engine to be as powerful as it can be...or am I missing the point of tuning an engine?

If you lean it too much it will not be powerful so I don't understand what you are stating. Unless you are saying one should not make your engines as powerful as they can be they can last forever? I know I'd rather have an engine scream it's ass off for 7 years vs one that ran like sh*t for 10 years.

Take this how you will...I really mean no disrespect to you personally, and.want to ensure that people understand both 'sides' to a statement like you made here.

I might not be a guru like a lot of you on here, but I too have learned from trial and error. I have 15+ engines and have tried a multitude of break in procedures, etc. Every engine I've owned is still going strong as are the 10+ I have broken in for others. Additionally I only THOUGHT I knew how to tune until I started seeing how 'racers' tune their engines...and as stated they are taking damn care of their 'fancy' engines...know that. I see absolutely nothing wrong with learning how to properly squeeze power out of your engines. As noted, isn't that what tuning is?

i did not say they dont take care of their engine, nor did i say they dont care about the engines. i said they dont use their motor month to month or year to year and they get all the power they can out of their engine. in order to do that you will not run the engine race after race after race after race. their engines will not last as long because they do not use them as much, motors slowly lose power, so theyre being thrown out more often than a bashers engine

 

[bobaloohoo]

and I'm getting my info and have gathered most of my info from a guy i work with here who has been racing far longer than i have even had an rc car, maybe hes wrong, maybe hes right, or maybe i just confused some people on my wording... but one thing i do know is, he replaces his motors at minimum every 3 or so months because he doesn't wanna lose 1/10 of his HP. he told me the rights and the wrongs, some stuff he was wrong about, but for the most part he is a knowledgable guy..

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Okay, fair enough. Thanks for the clarification. You guys correct me if I am wrong here, but in my experience engines gain power after their first few gallons of use. I've only had two engines that I would say lost power over time (5+ gallons) but I re-shimmed both and they ran like new). Perhaps I've been lucky, perhaps it has taken me a few gallons to learn how to really tune the engine, or perhaps they do "open up".

I know on a guy who gets four engines a year from a well-known nitro race company. He uses the same one to race with and the others for practice.

Also--speaking just for me--we put MUCH more on our engines when we practice/race. In fact the amount of fuel consumption is one think I dislike about racing

Regarding break in---youd be surprised but I actually use the "old school" method most of the time. However I've tried new school as well and believe it is as good but a bit dangerous. However I just do not know of a single person whose engine only lasted 6 gallons vs 10 (just an example) and can explicitly state it was because of his break in method. This is why I caution against blanket statements like "if you don't break it in this way your engine won't last".

I saw a guy once who broke in his engine during a race! He heat cycled it during the heats and by the main he was off an going. I don't have the balls to do that---but I've seen it.

 

[bobaloohoo]

wow i would not have the balls to do that, I'm too poor to be able to risk it, perhaps is why i prefer the old school method;P

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Yeah, it was crazy. As first I was like 'damn, look how rich he's running his engine' and then someone said 'oh, he's just breaking it in'. I know guys who will ONLY break in their engine on a track. I know some who will ONLY break it in on a bench. I've tried pretty much most methods (except this one):

I spoke with the guy who wrote the method below and came real close to trying it when I got my first Werks (he was quite convincing) but did not have enough confidence in my skills to pull is off. http://www.werksracing.com/techtips.html

 

[gablett]

So got it broken in good and tuned up and holy crap. I can't keep it off its roof even in loose gravel. Even with the bigger tires and 1 tooth lower on cb it's crazy low end. When this lrp .32 and ercm pipe come in I an definitely going back to stock 17 tooth vented bell. I don't think going down a tooth is necessary with these trenches unless you really like wheelies

Speaking of wheelies what's the consensus on the best wheelie bar? I think I'm gonna need one.

And do u guys tune for mid tank since it leans out or do u tune for full tank and stay a little rich? The mid tank lean is really pronounced. My temps were staying about 250-260.

 

[bobaloohoo]

i run mine up to 285. thats where it stays. dont be afraid of it

 

[gablett]

Oh and by the way, that sway bar kit is worth every penny.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Oh and by the way, that sway bar kit is worth every penny.

Cool...glad you are liking that. I love the chassis roll on the Savage, so have been setting it up to do its thing and let the sway bars to its thing. ;-) With that I'm looking for ways to lower its roll center for specific conditions. Right now can only work with the shocks but that also affects droop...which is something else I'd like to independently set. I think MTs should be brutal. and the only way to get there is to set it up so it just destroys its terrain. I'm not talking about just 'running hard.' I mean I want the truck to lift its hind leg and just own whatever environment I put it in. Not sure if you've ever seen an MT get after it, but it's a beautiful site, man. ;-) I've done a great job if limiting the traction roll, but have paid the price in other areas. I plan on having my cake and eating it too with my Savage.

Keep us posted on your progress. You appear to be on the right track.

 

[gablett]

So I ordered a couple more things.

1. 87245 Savage Suspension Conversion Set - HPI87245
2. HPI Wheelie Bar Set
3. T6909PURPLE Throttle Mix Arm Set Savage-X
4. Racers Edge 4.4Ah Metered Glow Ignitor w/110V Charger
5. Kyosho Clutch Tool
6. Serpent 1/8 Off Road Flywheel/Wheel Nut Wrench Tool

Trying to improve cornering performance while keeping the strength of the savage. After doing the ofna throttle mod I was really not impressed with the plastic throttle mix arm. It had a lot of flex. So I opted to get an aluminum one. Hard to find, but cheap. Mine is integy brand. And with the new LRP motor I'm gonna have to swap all the clutch parts over to it from my current motor so I got the tools to do that right. So once it all gets here Ill get in installed and get some pictures.

 

[bobaloohoo]

for future referance you wont need the tool, all you need is a screw driver, you can change the clutch in less than 5 minutes! but you got the tool now so you're set, never bad to have tools!

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I agree it's never bad to have the right tool for the job at hand, flywheel tools are one of the must haves for those guys that don't wish to have their flywheels all scared up.

 

[gablett]

for future referance you wont need the tool, all you need is a screw driver, you can change the clutch in less than 5 minutes! but you got the tool now so you're set, never bad to have tools!

I agree it's never bad to have the right tool for the job at hand, flywheel tools are one of the must haves for those guys that don't wish to have their flywheels all scared up.

Yea I'm always one who really likes to have the proper tool for the job.

 

[gablett]

So I'm looking at these Savage Flux HD diffs with the alloy case and the hard gears. Those will fit in a savage x even though are technically for the Flux right?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FC1SJ32/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZC10Z4SLMKX9

 

[griff7373]

try these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Savage-...ccessories&hash=item1c3d03e9d7#ht_1534wt_1125

 

[gablett]

try these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Savage-...ccessories&hash=item1c3d03e9d7#ht_1534wt_1125

Yea thats the stock diffs that are in my savage now. I'm wanting a backup and I thought I read somewhere that the savage flux diffs use better bevel gears. I was wondering if that was true and if those diffs I linked would work.

 

[gablett]

So I got the LRP .32. Waiting on the ERCM pipe to show up to install and break in. Shipped end of last week and Robin said it takes about a week and a half. Gotta love mail speed across international borders. Anyway, while I am waiting for the pipe I decided to seal up the motor. First time I have done that. I didnt do the needles as I don't have any green slime and have read its non essential. I also did a few photos of the unboxing so here ya go.

 

[bobaloohoo]

same engine i ordered! let me know how it fairs out

 

[Rolex]

I'll be waiting on the same info.