h8z2luze
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Looks good man! Must be heavy! Look at those tires. Unless there is no foams in them...
Moon Buggy build for S's n G's
- Thread starter Timmahh
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- buggy
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Lessen
Super Awesome!
Supporter
Cool build. I got a technical question for ya..
You have bent links only on the rear. Is there a peformance advantage to having bent links ONLY at the rear rather than ONLY at the front or even at all four lower links?
You have bent links only on the rear. Is there a peformance advantage to having bent links ONLY at the rear rather than ONLY at the front or even at all four lower links?
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #43
yes and no. buy having the bent links all around, you do gain some clearance, BUT>> you also expose your drive shaft to drag a rock and can/will roll you sideways. the straight links wont clearance as much, but should slide over, and keep the drive shaft up above them so it dont push you sideways should it hit a rock.
I'm not overly sure if this is going to be the best way or not, but it seems its the most typical setup used. Bents rear, and straights in front. also the bents are longer, so if you use them on both ends it will increase your wb a bit.
mem foams in the tires with 5 1/4 oz weight in front and 3 3/4 in rears atm... right now its just about 5lbs run weight. but that will go up as ill be adding aluminum and weighted rims.
I'm not overly sure if this is going to be the best way or not, but it seems its the most typical setup used. Bents rear, and straights in front. also the bents are longer, so if you use them on both ends it will increase your wb a bit.
mem foams in the tires with 5 1/4 oz weight in front and 3 3/4 in rears atm... right now its just about 5lbs run weight. but that will go up as ill be adding aluminum and weighted rims.
Lessen
Super Awesome!
Supporter
cool. Thanks for the explanation bud :thumbup:
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #45
well i took it for a spin around the room (i have so much bs in this room right now, its a crawlers paradise. lol) didnt do too bad at all. i re did my axial alum body shocks too. I limited the travel by using a plastic swival ball in the shocks. i then installed Traxxas Big Bore shock caps on them and modded the caps to hold a plastic swival ball. works very well, though i have to grind a bit more on one cap.
ride height is now at 2 5/8 to 2 3/4s in. seems to be pretty stable and i can almost get it vertical before it wants to butthead over teakettle over. id say i can get to aroudn 80* incline before it wants to topple over. seems to do well side hilling a bit too. but wont know for sure how well it will do this unit i get on the rocks.
ride height is now at 2 5/8 to 2 3/4s in. seems to be pretty stable and i can almost get it vertical before it wants to butthead over teakettle over. id say i can get to aroudn 80* incline before it wants to topple over. seems to do well side hilling a bit too. but wont know for sure how well it will do this unit i get on the rocks.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #47
a bit of proof.
wanted to see how well it will balance. in these 2 pics the buggy is only on the 2 rear tires. took a while to get it to balance and hold it. but i think its not too bad at all.
wanted to see how well it will balance. in these 2 pics the buggy is only on the 2 rear tires. took a while to get it to balance and hold it. but i think its not too bad at all.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #49
Memorys. I'm not sure of the brand. got them with the tires that were new, but bought 2nd hand. I'm guessing ProLines, but the packages were opened, though foams were in tires.
the are a snowish white color.
the are a snowish white color.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #50
added a couple side panels this evening. they are two purpose one they are side panels, and 2, they hold my 2s saddle pack in place. still need to do a roof plate incase i ever decide to comp with it.
still need to velcro the esc and rx down, but will do that in the am, need to stop and grab some velcro.
batts on the charger getting ready for some am fun.
still need to velcro the esc and rx down, but will do that in the am, need to stop and grab some velcro.
batts on the charger getting ready for some am fun.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #51
swapped the front to an unsprung full droop using the rear shocks from a Jammin X1-CR FTE (the newer big bores). they are stock other than no springs. will see how this plays out in a while at my home brew pile.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #52
Sunday when i was crawling, my buddy Clayton78 gave me one of the blower molds that come with the HPI. its just about the perfect fit in teh rear of the tube. So it will go in as a cover over the esc and wireing in the rear of the buggy.
i have the whole blower unit, but I'm only going to use the lower part of it. i have another use for the top blower intake parts. heres a few mock up pics
i ll have to mount a cross member piece at the rear of the cab area across the middle of the chassis. that will give me the place i need to mount the front of the blower/cover. once i have everything layed out, and brazed into place, i ll decide how I'm going to fix it into place. Will likely use some velcro so i can take it out easy for repair/maintenance.
will start painting it up later today or tomorrow.
i also took a few minutes and cleaned up the wireing which will hide Very nicely under the blower/cover.
i have the whole blower unit, but I'm only going to use the lower part of it. i have another use for the top blower intake parts. heres a few mock up pics
i ll have to mount a cross member piece at the rear of the cab area across the middle of the chassis. that will give me the place i need to mount the front of the blower/cover. once i have everything layed out, and brazed into place, i ll decide how I'm going to fix it into place. Will likely use some velcro so i can take it out easy for repair/maintenance.
will start painting it up later today or tomorrow.
i also took a few minutes and cleaned up the wireing which will hide Very nicely under the blower/cover.
Timmahh
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #54
a bit more to update tonight
working from chnl 4 on my React
got alot of mocking up before paint or pc. I'm going to attempt a dash with partial driver/seat if i can squeeze them in around the motor area. going to attemt to do a firewall with flywheel shroud, and a cover over the tranny and dig maybe.
working from chnl 4 on my React
got alot of mocking up before paint or pc. I'm going to attempt a dash with partial driver/seat if i can squeeze them in around the motor area. going to attemt to do a firewall with flywheel shroud, and a cover over the tranny and dig maybe.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #55
Well, its another lovely night of not being able to sleep. SOOOO......... i was more Mod Time. spent some time getting setup to braze in the middle rear cross member, but as i was just getting things hot, i ran out of oxy! Doh. so off to get more oxy tomorrow. need to find someone who gets oxygen for medical use, and get one of those 20lb tanks! then id be set for a while. heh.
while working on it over the last few days, i noticed there was a fair amount of spare room inside the cab area. enough that i decided to shift the tranny/dig system over. after a few measurements, and some new holes, the setup now sets 13.5mm to the side. This does 3 things which should overall, help the performance. first is a bit of weight shifting which i noticed was needed, allows me to put the lipo in one place that is well protected, and the one i like the most, shifted the driveshafts toward the center of the skid 13.5mm more. Now the driveshafts are almost in the center of the skid, which means smoother action due to decreased shaft angles!!!
i was also able to rerun the wires a bit, can clean it up even more.
heres a few of this evenings work.
now for some mood enhancement and maybe some shut eye.
so while i had the tranny/dig/skid out.
while working on it over the last few days, i noticed there was a fair amount of spare room inside the cab area. enough that i decided to shift the tranny/dig system over. after a few measurements, and some new holes, the setup now sets 13.5mm to the side. This does 3 things which should overall, help the performance. first is a bit of weight shifting which i noticed was needed, allows me to put the lipo in one place that is well protected, and the one i like the most, shifted the driveshafts toward the center of the skid 13.5mm more. Now the driveshafts are almost in the center of the skid, which means smoother action due to decreased shaft angles!!!
i was also able to rerun the wires a bit, can clean it up even more.
heres a few of this evenings work.
now for some mood enhancement and maybe some shut eye.
so while i had the tranny/dig/skid out.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #57
quick pics of the motor/cover going on the rear.
Timmahh
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- Thread starter
- #59
heh, ya is all in good fun. just trying to keep it real. lmao
couldnt help but to see how its looking.
not bad
couldnt help but to see how its looking.
not bad
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