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Most people prefer to build the H10 Optic trail buggy as a crawler, but...

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desmobob

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
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...would it be reasonable as a solid axle rock racer? I think the Fusion Pro 2300kv with an additional tooth on the pinion (16T vs. the kit's stock 15T) would give it enough speed. Does its design provide enough durability?

I'm just curious. I have no intentions of doing this with mine and I'm happy so far (I haven't really even run it other than in the driveway; I'm waiting for Spring and the snow to melt) with the speed with a 15T pinion... it can slow crawl and seems plenty fast for trail running. I was just curious about the Optic's capabilities if taken in the direction opposite of what most do.
 
Yes. But you want to gear up to reduce torque and up wheel speed. The most durable axles i find are:
Traxxas TRX4 (14 bolt equivalent)
Axial basecamp axles (Dana 60)
Capra. (Widened Dana 60)
Traxxas axles I have used 8S and the others I have run 6S. The Traxxas axles do not fail. The axial ones need rings and pinions and snap axle shafts and stub axles. So. I would say you can rock race it. But expect about 25 bucks of breakage.
 
Cool. And interesting. Thanks for the info!
 
Are aluminum axles good for increased durability or does the added unsprung weight degrade the handling enough to offset the durability gain?
 
Are aluminum axles good for increased durability or does the added unsprung weight degrade the handling enough to offset the durability gain?
There's no degradation in handling with the aluminum axle housings. If anything, the buggy becomes more stable with them.
 
Cool. I used to mess around in motorcycle road racing (WERA Sprint Series in the '80s) and unsprung weight was an enemy of good suspension response. I've read that it was not that big a deal in the RC vehicles but was curious about peoples' experience.
 
They’re better rock racers than dedicated crawlers.
Sounds a lot like the Wraith. I realized pretty quickly that it wasn't that great of a crawler, so I hot-rodded it instead.
 
Cool. I used to mess around in motorcycle road racing (WERA Sprint Series in the '80s) and unsprung weight was an enemy of good suspension response. I've read that it was not that big a deal in the RC vehicles but was curious about peoples' experience.

Um, huh? I think that would depend on your audience and what kind of RC you're talking about. In this situation, both have benefits and it would matter greatly on track conditions and performance expectations. Basic physics would tell you that any weight in components ( and not placed tuning weight ) will only hurt handling. Redirection of mass becomes harder as mass increases.

Going fast in the H10, I worry about the C-hubs in that I think the plastic there may be a problem. But, if I only need to survive a few races on a relatively smooth dirt track, I'd much rather run plastic and be faster and more agile. If I'm rock racing through Hell's Canyon, well it's gonna be aluminum so I can at least finish the race.
 
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I think the "it doesn't matter much" responses came mostly from the crawling crowd. I picked the Optic more as a trail runner/rock racer, although it will see the mild side of that kind of usage. I was concerned about the C-hubs/knuckles durability if run fast. That's why I installed the aluminum axle and knuckles. That, and because it's been too darn cold to do much outside so working on the Optic seemed like a good idea. :)
 
Unsprung weight in a crawler tends to be a benefit ( when properly placed ) in keeping the truck sticking to the rock and not peeling away, but as you pass 60 degrees on inclination, any weight starts to become a handicap. This is where corner weight measurements along with CG, roll-center, and anti-squat all come into play. People overlook the importance of CG frequently, and I think one reason is that it takes a bit more effort to properly measure it.

To compound things further, weight and tire foams are directly related, so as one changes you need to change the other, and getting too light makes foam choices a bit more challenging. This is all in the weeds for this conversation, but as we know, everything is a compromise.
 
As a go fast and abuse crawlers afficianado. The metal housings allow for less bearing movement at extreme power levels. And dissipate heat. Can be packed with shock absorbing red grease. If you're going to go nuts on it. Metal is a moderate improvement. But unnecessary for the majority of builds. But metal is: cool. Plastic is for my bloodstream.
 
It's decent as a crawler. But if that was my main goal I would get something specifically for it.

However, as a basher it seems at home.

In this video it's running brushed, on 3s, with bashing towards the end of the run.

I now have a sensored brushless system in if to up the fun :)

 
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H 10 Racer. Custom door inserts to hold electronics, custom rear battery tray for SMC Racing 4s HV/HP lipo battery. Custom front steering mount for ram. From there, it's stock other than fancy bearing in the transmission. Transmitter is up top so we can install the lap timer for the race.

Race rules: 4 hours non-stop. Winner has most laps on the track. Broken parts must be replaced with factory parts, so we have two more complete H10 kits ready with some sub-assembly complete ( rod ends, ect ).

Track is mostly red dirt and sand, with some moderate rock; it's what I would call a mild U4 track.


H10 10.webp


H10 11.webp


H10 12.webp
 
It's gonna be a good time for sure. Trick is to last all 4 hours and try to minimize the amount of time turning wrenches. We each have multiple sets of wheels and tires pre-built, and we are allowing the axles to be pre-built.

There is also a large cooling station with fans and air compressors, as well as a battery charger. 50/50 they make it to the end of 4 hours.
 
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