Kyosho Drx One11 Nitro

[Certified Mike]

For sure. If you think the carb is WAY out of adjustment, your instructions should be very clear about how to get everything back to the factory settings. 1/4 turn at a time is the MOST you should be adjusting at a time. If you use 1/4 adjustments, it will be easier to undo them if you have gone too far. Patients it the key to making these adjustments as well as the ENTIRE break in period. I think it happens to everyone, that you just got your new car and can't wait to see it FLY... DON'T DO IT!!!
Just to check, because you haven't mentioned it... What brand and % is your fuel? Using a GOOD fuel is imperative thru the course of your ownership! Maybe more expensive but trust me, as well as anyone else on here. Good fuel is key!

 

[Certified Mike]

Just watching the video... There should be WAY more smoke and shouldn't be running anywhere near as hot or as high rpms as when he first got it going. His rmps were way better After he said 5 1/2 turns. He was also adjusting the needles way too much without trying it in between. Just a heads up. Please let us know how you're doing.

 

[Rolex]

I decided to watch the video. It wasn't easy. DO NOT try to run yours based on this guy's vid. He's absolutely clueless about nitro engines. Obviously this is the first one he's ever owned.

 

[Toke]

I thought that when I saw the video myself, I'm gonna leave the needles how they are at the moment and run another few tanks at idle hopefully the engine becomes more responsive and starts to make movement.

I'm being impatient that's my problem

 

[Certified Mike]

You're on the right track now! Just be sure to check your temps as your breaking in. While the car isn't moving, There is obiously no airflow across your motor to cool it. You can always use a fan to create some airflow if needed but don't let it overheat. If you have a good idle with a good amount of smoke, you're likely at a good needle setting for break in. Congrats!

 

[Toke]

I'm just concerned as to why the wheels wernt as responsive as I've seen on other videos I see people start them up an the wheels keep spinning due to the idle being incorrect, yet mine seems to bog with being too rich whenever throttle is applied. I can't see till I get home but I think I just need a few more tanks to idle through then eventually the engine will start performing properly and il actually get some action.

My nitro fuel is 20% and hpi I think

 

[Certified Mike]

I believe you are on the right track. While the motor is running rich, I think I would almost expect it to bog. You're Def getting ahead of yourself worrying about that tho. Focus on the break in and not what it's going to do when the needles are 'set for performance' so to speak. You WILL get this car to SCREAM after your break in! Believe me when I say that there isn't a person here who hasn't gone thru the worry and the want to see their new car burning up the road. There may even be a few who pushed their new motor too hard by doing that and smoked their brand new mill! We are all here trying to guide you thru the break in process thru our experience. Please, be patient and we will do our best to get you from where you are now to smoking the tires right off your car!
As you break the motor in, each trim of the needle will get you one step closer to running leaner and WAY MEANER! We won't leave you hanging!
While I have not used that fuel personally, I do have a friend who uses it in his Savage and has had good luck. If anyone else could chime in with any experience directly with you fuel...???

There are a lot of different theories and opinions as far as break in procedures. I am thinking that if your car is billowing smoke and not getting up to temp, you MAY want to lean up the carb a little before your next run. If you don't have a digital temp gauge, today you should pick one up. They aren't terribly expensive and a LOT cheaper than a new motor. The temp tells a lot about how the engine is running. Please post your temps and we can share with you our thoughts on what to do next and when. You're not that far away from getting it in the ground and doing some throttle cycling imo. That should put a BIG smile on your face!

 

[ninnon]

Give this a read too:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/

 

[Certified Mike]

That's an awesome post! Even tho I consider myself at least somewhat seasoned ) I still enjoy reading posts like that, reading about ppls different theories on break-in etc... Every once in a while I even learn something! Somethin about old dogs and tricks???

 

[Toke]

The only time I manage to get the wheels to turn is when it's just about to run out of fuel it revs higher and the wheels start to spin but I have to cut it out before it runs empty this is after two tanks of idling and letting the engine warm up.


So should I throw another tank in to idle and then start adjusting the Hsn?

 

[Certified Mike]

Have you got any running temps at all? That would really help out in determining how the engine is operating and to figure out where to go from here. If it's getting up to temp, I would start leaning it out VERY SLOWLY with 1/4 turns. When I say that, I am saying like a tank a turn. This is when temp starts to be more important. As you lean, you will start to run higher temps. The car may also be able to start running short blasts to say no more than 1/2 throttle blips (do not use the shell during your break in period) and again, temp is important! I also recommend you wait to hear from a couple other folks here to see what they are thinking. Both of the links that were posted have valuable info about how to start dialing in while still breaking in. That means no full throttle yet! Patients!
The other thing is that as much as you can feel confident that we are experienced in nitro, the car came with instructions on how the manufacturer recommends break in. You need to compare what we are saying and what the book says. Post what it says if it differs much from what you are hearing for us. Different manufacturers use different materials in their parts. (Different grades of metal etc...) Those differences will effect the recommendations between manufacturers. Also, what is the weather like where you are? The ambient temperature and even altitude will have effect s on tuning.
Lastly, I want to make sure that you understand that the fuel acts as a coolant as well as the lubricant for the engine. I just want to make sure that you know this and don't have any questions about that. I bring this up o,my because it hasn't been mentioned here

Wow. Wrong button! I mention this only because it hasn't been mentioned in this thread before and is certainly relevant to break in as well as proper performance for the life of the engine.

 

[Toke]

LINK REMOVED BY MODERATOR

This was when we finally managed to get the cog spinning and the wheels moving its nearly there just have to be patient like you've said and il be re reading the tuning guides but I've got a pretty good understanding of how it's supposed to sound but I could do with all the help I can get to ensure the engine life is at iTs optimum



I will be preheating as it took a while for the engine to warm up and I feel it's much easier to start with a warm engine but won't this mean I have to alter the Hsn as and when to aid in starting in the different temperatures and conditions dependant on time and location

 

[Certified Mike]

You want to do your needle adjustments (when you're closer to broken in) when it's warm anyways. I am not so sure you want to do a pre-warm until after break in tho. I have not done it myself so my thoughts are based on what I have read. Because the cold metal is tighter when cool and the parts will expand at different rates, it seems important to let the parts wear together thru break in in a cool-hot cycle. I hope someone else will throw in their 2 cents here. As I said, this is based on my knowledge of 1:1 cars, what I have read etc, no personal experience with a preheated motor.

Btw, the video looks like you're pretty close to dialed. The smoke looks good and the motor sounds like it wants to go, just needs that final bit of lean. For sure tho, patients!

 

[Certified Mike]

I just read a post about a kyosho nitro and the guy said his hardware is vibrating out. It might not be a bad idea to go thru and loc-tite your car up before any issues arise. (blue loc-tite is the way to go imo. Red is WAY too much if you need to unscrew anything later on)

 

[Rolex]

@Toke
I don't know yet what's included in your link, but this is the first time EVER that I have gotten an instant warning from my cable company regarding a clip.
The pop-up on the lower right is from my virus protection program, but now I have to contact Comcast to see what this is about.
Do not post any more links till I get to the bottom of this.

Rolex
RCNT Staff

 

[Certified Mike]

I opened it. It went to a pop up first but then was just a vid of him holding up his car giving it mid revs. I didn't have any issues with it for whatever it's worth.

Opened on my phone.

 

[Rolex]

The popup on the bottom right of my screen shot is my Virus program. I called the number on that blue screen and knew it was a scam since I did not get the Comcast menu options. When I got a "Technician" I played dumb and asked what company it was and was told it was the Windows International Support number. That's the same BS you get when they cold call you phone and tell you they have found a problem in your computer. (Windows Support does not deal with your internet carrier or know anything about their problems.)
This is what's known as 'Scareware' and unfortunately, too many people are sucked in to pay for a repair they don't need.

@Toke you'll need to do a full virus scan and a malware scan on your computer before you can post another link here. I've already contacted Comcast and provided them with a copy of the screen shot so they can attempt to provide filters for it. I've also been given the info to contact the FTC to report it.
It's not a problem for you, @Toke, but it's what we have to do to try to stop another scammer. My virus program blocked it, but your computer is obviously sending it with your video links. I'm guessing it's a Trojan and you might have picked it up from the site where you hosted your vid.

Whatever you do, DO NOT call the bogus 888 # listed on the warning screen.

 

[Certified Mike]

Not pointed at anyone in here when I say that sometimes ppl really suck! True scum.

 

[hamz9561]

Not pointed at anyone in here when I say that sometimes ppl really suck! True scum.

I know how you feel. I am on the National Do Not Call list and keep getting scam phone calls. It's so bad that I ended up having to get an app that blockes the known scammers and allows you to post any that aren't listed.

 

[Rolex]

Not pointed at anyone in here when I say that sometimes ppl really suck! True scum.

The so called "Technicians" that will solve your problem after infecting computers with Trojans are usually located in the Philippines where there's nothing the U.S. can do about it.