Hobao Hyper TT 2.0 1/10 Scale Mini Truggy

[White_Crow_G]

I need your thoughts on the flight characteristics of the mini truggy.
Are you running a full size LiPo battery, or a shorty? If running a shorty, are you running it in the front of the battery tray?
View attachment 230931

Hi m8.
I'm running fullsize. didnt touch a battery tray at all. using 2 existing belts.
as i metioned - its my first chasis, so i'm trying not to fly )))
also, I'm using 2s lipos, which not giving enoung power to control in the air at high speed.
so for this purpose, for now, using my WL 144010

 

[White_Crow_G]

It feels like I'm doing WRONG rides
Hi guys. I need some comments. Since i start RC's, i used to brake something almost every singe event. in my "garage" WL 144010 and TT2.0
I'm not doing bashes, avoid skateparks....just sort of grass drives...
Ok, I'm not a perfect driver and sometime can have a few rolls, but......should it always end up with the breakups?
i'm running hobbywing MAX10 4100 Kv and 14t pinion gear on 2s (!!!) so it's relatively slow (even compare to WL)
first victim was Rear Hub Carrier, ok...next roll - Turnbuckle Rear Upper Arm RIP.... - ok....
after a soft hit the kerb seems like bent Lower Arm Holder...
and now this guy just switching off once i putting the body on... (no there is nothing touches on/off button)

I find this really annoying as i need to spend hour for repairs after every 1-2 battery's.
some of you knows when i received my roller, and now i can say that i could take it apart without even looking on the car.
I fill like its me doing something wrong, but i don't have someone next to me to ask what exactly.

All tthe comments, suggestions, advices a really appretiated.
Thank you

 

[RustyUs]

Shorty Battery

Battery tray can be moved 1.3cm forward/aft on the chassis.

I'm going with battery tray placed forward on the chassis with the shorty in forward location in the battery tray for now. Battery tray is... roomy. Dense foam piece E6000ed to the front of tray for shock absorption. Side to side movement shouldn't be a problem once straps are tightened.

 

[RustyUs]

It feels like I'm doing WRONG rides
Hi guys. I need some comments. Since i start RC's, i used to brake something almost every singe event. in my "garage" WL 144010 and TT2.0
I'm not doing bashes, avoid skateparks....just sort of grass drives...
Ok, I'm not a perfect driver and sometime can have a few rolls, but......should it always end up with the breakups?
i'm running hobbywing MAX10 4100 Kv and 14t pinion gear on 2s (!!!) so it's relatively slow (even compare to WL)
first victim was Rear Hub Carrier, ok...next roll - Turnbuckle Rear Upper Arm RIP.... - ok....
after a soft hit the kerb seems like bent Lower Arm Holder...
and now this guy just switching off once i putting the body on... (no there is nothing touches on/off button)

I find this really annoying as i need to spend hour for repairs after every 1-2 battery's.
some of you knows when i received my roller, and now i can say that i could take it apart without even looking on the car.
I fill like its me doing something wrong, but i don't have someone next to me to ask what exactly.

All tthe comments, suggestions, advices a really appretiated.
Thank you

I can't comment on the durability of the Hobao parts yet, but hitting things at just the right angles, or catching an arm on something can do weird things. I sure hope this mini truggy doesn't turn out to be a flop. I was watching a bunch of reviews yesterday. Dudes putting huge tires on; launching the thing 15' in the air; cartwheels... only lost a body pin in all the drama that happened.

Your "relatively slow" thoughts with a 4100kv motor, and what my thoughts are (with my RCs with 4000kv motors in them) ... we are probably far apart. I'm always limiting my motors 10,15% at times just because of the rough terrain I run on and the lightness of some platforms. I bet my RCs only reach 30 MPH maybe for a second at one point on backyard track. The rest of the time I have to finger the throttle to prevent upsetting the RC I'm driving through whoops and ruts.

The "A/B/C/D blocks" (hinge pin retainers/lower arm holder) were a concern of mine on the TT 2.0, but the high praise given (in most areas) to it's predecessor ultimately pushed me into getting this mini truggy. Previous TT had stamped pieces of aluminum vs. the 2.0's machined pieces. Visually for "beefiness" aesthetics... another millimeter would have been welcomed.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Hi everyone.
Again need some advices regarding TT2.0
First (i would say the main for now) is front suspension adjustments.
The rig (my one) has really noticeable negative camber. and....due to not having upper arm adjustable - got no clue how to fix it...
The only thing i can adjust (on the front) is toe.
Why do i want to adjust a camber. it's due to strongly pronounced caster with this type of camber - i'm really struggling to keep the car straight. especially on asphalt mid+ speed (unless wheels gyroscopic effect will apear)
and the steering itself feels (don't know how to explain) none linear (exponential, but in a wrong direction i'd like it to be)

The Second one is regarding servo.
I have some 35kg amazon servo
Last weekend i found the fact - i didnt program BEC on my ESC and it was by default (i believe 6v) - so i change it to 7.4 (seems like my max10 is not allow to do 8.4 and my servo start behaving kind of odd.. once driving straight - it doesn't return the wheels perfectly in a default position (straight) and overall fells relatively bizarre. i know, the right way is to program it back to 6v, but i want to sort out how it works and what am i doing wrong.
Also i was thinking to swap to JX Ecoboost CLS6336HV 36KG. does it make any sense?
Also, looking at (for the future, not now) Spektrum S665


All the advices and suggestions are much appreciated!

 

[RustyUs]

Front Camber Adjustment

Hi everyone.
Again need some advices regarding TT2.0
First (i would say the main for now) is front suspension adjustments.
The rig (my one) has really noticeable negative camber. and....due to not having upper arm adjustable - got no clue how to fix it...
The only thing i can adjust (on the front) is toe.
Why do i want to adjust a camber. it's due to strongly pronounced caster with this type of camber - i'm really struggling to keep the car straight. especially on asphalt mid+ speed (unless wheels gyroscopic effect will apear)
and the steering itself feels (don't know how to explain) none linear (exponential, but in a wrong direction i'd like it to be)

The Second one is regarding servo.
I have some 35kg amazon servo
Last weekend i found the fact - i didnt program BEC on my ESC and it was by default (i believe 6v) - so i change it to 7.4 (seems like my max10 is not allow to do 8.4 and my servo start behaving kind of odd.. once driving straight - it doesn't return the wheels perfectly in a default position (straight) and overall fells relatively bizarre. i know, the right way is to program it back to 6v, but i want to sort out how it works and what am i doing wrong.
Also i was thinking to swap to JX Ecoboost CLS6336HV 36KG. does it make any sense?
Also, looking at (for the future, not now) Spektrum S665


All the advices and suggestions are much appreciated!

Insert hex driver into the pillow balls ends to adjust the camber...

I moved the top pillow ball out about 1mm on each side.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Is there a radio recalibration procedure listed in your manuals?
The servo issue you are having may be fixed by radio recalibration. I would try that. Its free!

 

[White_Crow_G]

radio recalibration

i'm not sure. probably have to google it for my FS-Gt3C
But it looks absolutely nice and smooth when i'm testing it

 

[CertifiedMike]

i'm not sure. probably have to google it for my FS-Gt3C
But it looks absolutely nice and smooth when i'm testing it

The recal may not work but I've seen recal fix a bunch of weird issues.
Its free and easy to do. I think its the first thing to do if a radio system is acting funny.

 

[White_Crow_G]

The recal may not work but I've seen recal fix a bunch of weird issues.
Its free and easy to do. I think its the first thing to do if a radio system is acting funny.

Have no clue what "recal" is, but i do my best to google and at least re-set it to factory defaults.
BTW i just realise i'm running it on BS3 receiver (which has gyro) and gyro behaves really...strange...like it tries to work, but doing it in wrong directions (wrong surface). i tried to switch it of but seems like knob (on a receiver) desnt react, so will check this as well

 

[CertifiedMike]

Recal= recalibration. Sorry

 

[CertifiedMike]

Yes, gyro makes sense as well. My cars don't use gryos so I don't have much advice to offer on them.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Recal= recalibration. Sorry

i really feel sorry for such a dumb questions, but...
when you talking about re-calibration - do you mean ESC calibration (ESC manual suggest to do this with any new transmitter and/or recevier)OR there is a hidden option in my transmitter which can re-calibrate it?

 

[RustyUs]

Front Camber Adjustment

There is no need to take the wheels off. The spoked wheels will allow you to get a 2.5mm hex driver into the pillow balls if you have the arms/bones level...

 

[RustyUs]

...The Second one is regarding servo.
I have some 35kg amazon servo
Last weekend i found the fact - i didnt program BEC on my ESC and it was by default (i believe 6v) - so i change it to 7.4 (seems like my max10 is not allow to do 8.4 and my servo start behaving kind of odd.. once driving straight - it doesn't return the wheels perfectly in a default position (straight) and overall fells relatively bizarre. i know, the right way is to program it back to 6v, but i want to sort out how it works and what am i doing wrong.
Also i was thinking to swap to JX Ecoboost CLS6336HV 36KG. does it make any sense?
Also, looking at (for the future, not now) Spektrum S665


All the advices and suggestions are much appreciated!

Are you saying you replaced the stock servo, and now you have "bizarre" steering?
I am not sure I follow about the voltage. I highly doubt any change in BEC voltage would have anything to with straightness. Having the servo horn centered should be a 'must do' when messing with, or replacing the servo.

Perhaps the servo saver has come loose and is the reason the steering won't center correctly?

 

[White_Crow_G]

There is no need to take the wheels off. The spoked wheels will allow you to get a 2.5mm hex driver into the pillow balls if you have the arms/bones level...
View attachment 232701
View attachment 232702

just got back home after a few tests - i dont really like to undo the only screw which holds an upper arm, but i will follow your advice as 100% you know better )))
Result - it helps. a loose it for about 2mm and car hendles great. i can now go full flat on 1.2m wide path (asphalt) which is motre then great for me as such a newbie
still need to adjust front suspetion, toe, maybe to change hingpins, but i see now that its most likely related to wrong suspetion setup.
Also i will doublecheck servo-saver (need to google what it doing first)
I didnt have any stock servo as it was a roller, but i did change BEC from default (6v) to 7.4v

 

[RustyUs]

Servo Saver

just got back home after a few tests - i dont really like to undo the only screw which holds an upper arm, but i will follow your advice as 100% you know better )))
Result - it helps. a loose it for about 2mm and car hendles great. i can now go full flat on 1.2m wide path (asphalt) which is motre then great for me as such a newbie
still need to adjust front suspetion, toe, maybe to change hingpins, but i see now that its most likely related to wrong suspetion setup.
Also i will doublecheck servo-saver (need to google what it doing first)
I didnt have any stock servo as it was a roller, but i did change BEC from default (6v) to 7.4v

Sorry, I can't keep things straight, who has what, between the TT owners that I've been talking to in the past week.

The servo saver adjustment collar (highlighted by the arrow below). There are no preset tightness guidelines to go by in the manual. We just have to accept how tight the assembly line workers set the adjustment collar and go from there.

There is an o-ring that sits in the groove inside of the collar.

This o-ring is supposed to keep the collar from loosening. I'm not saying your servo saver has loosened, but maybe it was not tight enough right from the get-go. While the truck is on the ground, if you see the servo saver pieces disengaging as you work the steering, I'd say the servo saver needs tightened. I know a lot of people (in the 1/8 scale realm of things) will use threadlocker on the adjustment collar for reassurance. I would not recommend using threadlocker until after you find out for sure what your steering issue is.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Servo Saver


Sorry, I can't keep things straight, who has what, between the TT owners that I've been talking to in the past week.

The servo saver adjustment collar (highlighted by the arrow below). There are no preset tightness guidelines to go by in the manual. We just have to accept how tight the assembly line workers set the adjustment collar and go from there.
View attachment 232717

There is an o-ring that sits in the groove inside of the collar.
View attachment 232720
This o-ring is supposed to keep the collar from loosening. I'm not saying your servo saver has loosened, but maybe it was not tight enough right from the get-go. While the truck is on the ground, if you see the servo saver pieces disengaging as you work the steering, I'd say the servo saver needs tightened. I know a lot of people (in the 1/8 scale realm of things) will use threadlocker on the adjustment collar for reassurance. I would not recommend using threadlocker until after you find out for sure what your steering issue is.

Thank you.
Seems like the issue comes from here. as i noticed that, as for instance, i trim everything nicely, car goes straight and then, after U-turne - i goes elsewhere but straight. I saw same behaviour when my stock servo horn (plastic one) get loose
So i will take this apart this evening and check everything.
Thank you for help!

 

[RustyUs]

Rear Turnbuckles

Perhaps the threads on the stock turnbuckles are a weak point? My gameplan for if/when stock threaded "things" give out...

Straight out of the package, the #3745 59mm turnbuckles are almost at the perfect length. Just bring in the rod ends a tad bit, they'll be good to go.

 

[WickedFog]

Rear Turnbuckles

Perhaps the threads on the stock turnbuckles are a weak point? My gameplan for if/when stock threaded "things" give out...
View attachment 235157View attachment 235158
Straight out of the package, the #3745 59mm turnbuckles are almost at the perfect length. Just bring in the rod ends a tad bit, they'll be good to go.

Yeah, they break right where the threads stop almost every single time.