Hobao Hyper TT 2.0 1/10 Scale Mini Truggy

[RustyUs]

Alone No More

I see @White_Crow_G has stepped in the mini truggy game. I look forward to thoughts on the TT 2.0 platform.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Well, yes, it's a beautifully machined piece and not cast or stamped. It's just "me" that is making things difficult. A normal(?) person would probably use a 3650/540 size motor with a 3.17mm shaft... easy, peasy. I had a couple backup plans if the Viper motor didn't pan out. The chosen motor I'm using was just sitting dormant for ten years, and was begging me to be put to use. It's basically a new motor with one or two minutes of run time on it. The darn thing trashed a new T4 tranny .

But normal is so... boring!!!
This is a cool looking truck!

 

[White_Crow_G]

Hi Guys!
Have a few thoughts for tt2.0 - need your advice.
(PLEASE keep in mind - its my very first chassis so i don't know much)

1 - after a first run i found it a bit understeering
in this case my thoughts are to change rear springs to stiffer option AND change rear diff oil from 3k to 6k. (by default its 3-6-6 r-m-f)
do you think is the right choice?

2 - is it safe enough to change a pinion from 13t to 18t. as i feel like this chassis is a bit slow for me.
Motor is Hobbywing Max10 4100 + 80A ESC

3 - is it safe to run on 3s? on HW website it says that motor and esc can run 2-3S, BUT with stock pinion it will produce over 40k rpm's

4 - did anyone experience doing the same "side-wing" as for SSTE to avoid rubbish and dead grass winding rear driveshafts? I did model and print them out, but not sure if it will destroy a body.

 

[RustyUs]

Hi Guys!
Have a few thoughts for tt2.0 - need your advice.
(PLEASE keep in mind - its my very first chassis so i don't know much)

1 - after a first run i found it a bit understeering
in this case my thoughts are to change rear springs to stiffer option AND change rear diff oil from 3k to 6k. (by default its 3-6-6 r-m-f)
do you think is the right choice?

I'm not sure what surface you're running on, but the stock tires sure do feel like a medium-ish compound. Softer tires would surely give you better steering. I have not even got the mini truggy out in it's elements yet. I know the first thing I'm doing before it even hits the dirt is... take off the anti-sway bars. In your case I'd start with the fronts.

I was thinking the stock 5/5/3k (front/center/rear) diff fluids were a bit on the lighter side of things compared to my other 1/10 scale 4wd rides. I'm currently putting the TT 2.0 back together and didn't change any thicknesses.

I don't know how many runs you have on the mini truggy, but I would let the gears get broken-in before adjusting/changing fluids.

 

[RustyUs]

2 - is it safe enough to change a pinion from 13t to 18t. as i feel like this chassis is a bit slow for me.
Motor is Hobbywing Max10 4100 + 80A ESC.

3 - is it safe to run on 3s? on HW website it says that motor and esc can run 2-3S, BUT with stock pinion it will produce over 40k rpm's

You should be in the 30-ish MPH range with that motor and stock gearing. Everyone has different needs/wants.

The 4100kv should handle a 3S LiPo with no problem... it's the other factors that come into play.

Even though the EZRun ESC/motor combo should "talk" to each other through the sensor cable and has an automatic thermal protection, do you have an infrared thermometer? Gear up and take temperature readings until you find the speed you're after, or the temps get too high. Your battery's capacity (run time) and driving style will play a role in motor/user happiness.

 

[RustyUs]

Steering Knuckles

Steering Knuckles

I'm gonna have to dig deeper into what comes stock (steering knuckles) on the TT 2.0's front end. The manual shows old part number 11214 (steering knuckles) but there is an updated part 11214N on the website and both parts are shown as standard parts. Both sets are included in package?

Why in the world would you release a 2.0 and not have the updated part on the platform? Hopefully, the manual was not fully proofread and the "beefier" part is included on the new TT. It's not really a big deal to some, but, for me not being a fan of pillow ball suspensions, it's even a bigger obstacle to overcome.

Yes, the new front knuckles are included on the 2.0

 

[White_Crow_G]

You should be in the 30-ish MPH range with that motor and stock gearing. Everyone has different needs/wants.

The 4100kv should handle a 3S LiPo with no problem... it's the other factors that come into play.

Even though the EZRun ESC/motor combo should "talk" to each other through the sensor cable and has an automatic thermal protection, do you have an infrared thermometer? Gear up and take temperature readings until you find the speed you're after, or the temps get too high. Your battery's capacity (run time) and driving style will play a role in motor/user happiness.

Clear enough for me. thank you.
I don't hazve IR sensor, so as a starting point i will go with 87% throttle D.R. (it should be roughly less then 40k rpm's, and check the motor to not overheat.
I found HobbyWing software, i really hope i can connect it to ESC to see the temps in realtime.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Guys, i need EMERGENCY HELP.
This weekend i was about to try 18t pinion (instead 13t stock one)
and...i couldn't unscrew it. When i was installing it i was using a bit of medium threadlocker....
trying to unscrew the tiny bolt (holds pinion on shaft) - i just end up with hex edges have been smoothed out. obviously there is no way for me to take this out.
Could anyone help me with advice - how to take this pinion off?
Should i disassemble the motor....?
as for me it looks like the end of a motor... a bit panic

P.S.
threadlocker is medium strong.
tried to heat it with a lighter, but i dont like the idea to het up to 250 so close to electric motor (it's not to good for the magnets)

 

[CertifiedMike]

Rest the tip of a soldering iron directly on the screw head. Its about the most direct, controlled heat you'll find and it works.

 

[White_Crow_G]

Rest the tip of a soldering iron directly on the screw head. Its about the most direct, controlled heat you'll find and it works.

Ok, and how do I unscrew it after? As there is no more edges in hex inside screw (((

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ok, and how do I unscrew it after? As there is no more edges in hex inside screw (((

You might need to try hammering a small torx or flathed screw driver in there to see if you can extract it. If not, a drill wiil make quick work of the grub screw.

 

[White_Crow_G]

a drill wiil make quick work

2.5 mm drill bit is comming.
i really dont think that to heat thing so close to motor (which works on magnetic fields) is a good idea.

 

[CertifiedMike]

To heat the pinion enough to melt the locktite is a common practice for exactly the reason you have just discovered.
Its pretty common to find rtr hardware gooped with locktite.
I understand your concern about the motor temps. I don't ever remember anyone saying they had any problems after a pinion removal either though.
Do be 1000000000% sure to tape up any vent holes, mounting holes etc before you start drilling.
Metal flakes in your motor WILL kill it!

 

[White_Crow_G]

Do be 1000000000% sure to tape up any vent holes

thats a great advice. I would notice this just AFTER drilling )
Thanks! you probably save my motor

 

[CertifiedMike]

A dab of grease on the end of the drill bit can help. Go SLOW!!! Stop to check and clean/clear your work and the bit, regrease, restart.

 

[RustyUs]

2.5 mm drill bit is comming.
i really dont think that to heat thing so close to motor (which works on magnetic fields) is a good idea.

Left-handed/reverse drill bit is what I'd use in situation like yours. Heat up the set screw to melt threadlocker first and should have the rounded out set screw extracted in no time.

 

[White_Crow_G]

THank you all for suggestions.
I dont have a soldering machine yet, but the drill bit will arrive tomorrow and worth just a couple of pounds, so i will probably start with cheapest and easiest option and then go for more complicated.
i dont mint to loose a pinion as, even after heating (this required at least 250 degrees) - i will become iseless, so... will see how it goes tomorrow. will update tread

 

[RustyUs]

Guys, i need EMERGENCY HELP.
This weekend i was about to try 18t pinion (instead 13t stock one)
and...i couldn't unscrew it. When i was installing it i was using a bit of medium threadlocker....
trying to unscrew the tiny bolt (holds pinion on shaft) - i just end up with hex edges have been smoothed out. obviously there is no way for me to take this out.
Could anyone help me with advice - how to take this pinion off?
Should i disassemble the motor....?
as for me it looks like the end of a motor... a bit panic

P.S.
threadlocker is medium strong.
tried to heat it with a lighter, but i dont like the idea to het up to 250 so close to electric motor (it's not to good for the magnets)

This is one of the fears of using threadlocker on some unknow brand of pinion gears that I have and use to test for sweet spot gearing. LiPo batteries; more powerful brushless motors; mixed with 4wd off-road RCs... it's hard to not use threadlocker on set screws these days. A person gets in a hurry; forgets to loosen/melt the threadlocker, and BAM... swear words start forming in head as RC gets tossed across room in frustration. I can relate.

I wouldn't worry too much about heating up (using a flame) the pinion gear set screw on the TT 2.0 as there is no plastics nearby*. I have a mini "jet flame torch lighter" on workbench/table at all times.

Gets used just about every day for cleaning up old threadlocker off threads; heat shrink tubing, and whiskers (on 3D prints).

 

[RustyUs]

Hi Guys!
Have a few thoughts for tt2.0 - need your advice.
(PLEASE keep in mind - its my very first chassis so i don't know much)

1 - after a first run i found it a bit understeering
in this case my thoughts are to change rear springs to stiffer option AND change rear diff oil from 3k to 6k. (by default its 3-6-6 r-m-f)
do you think is the right choice?...

After putting together my mini truggy and taking a closer look at things, I realized the extra holes in the steering rack for adjusting the Akermann.

I would probably start by moving the links forward on the rack as another possibility.

 

[RustyUs]

Hi Guys!
Have a few thoughts for tt2.0 - need your advice.
(PLEASE keep in mind - its my very first chassis so i don't know much)...

I need your thoughts on the flight characteristics of the mini truggy.
Are you running a full size LiPo battery, or a shorty? If running a shorty, are you running it in the front of the battery tray?