First tekno parts in for the used MT410

[lcam88]

My first parts are in from Tekno. Despite the roller coaster ride of whether to designate it to a parts expense and buy a new kit, I've opted to do what I originally planned with it.

Please excuse the poor quality camera from my cheap smartphone. The radio was added as the original only came with a receiver. I have had a couple of runs in wettish conditions so there is a bit of dirt. Overall it look pretty good.

The battery adapter is a band-aid that my good friend Nick put on to run an extra pair of 2S packs he has until my batteries arrive.

At some point I'll need to do something about the spring combination, there is a Green in front and a Yellow in back. I haven't yet verified if the shocks are fit front to back; the tekno manual has the 137mm in the rear and I think on my rig they my be up front.

Goodies from Tekno. Mostly parts associated with the installation of the sway bars, which I want. I may delay installing them for now, we'll see. Does anyone have a comment about whether they are needed?

The front SCT bumper was highly recommended by Nick as I am an RC beginner. My intention is also to let my 6 year old girl drive the rig; bumpers are a good thing to have. I personally like the look of the A Block cover/bumper.

The rear diff gearbox is here because we identified a broken part.

Nick drilled a deeper hole and installed a longer screw as a temporary measure.

This is the state of my MT410 mostly as it was purchased. Of course Nick put a bit of time going over everything and bringing it back to Tekno recommended initial setup.

Right now the truck will move but I'm waiting for the new Jx Pdi-6221mg 20kg Large Torque Digital Coreless Servo. I stripped the gears on the Rage server depicted above when I splashed it though a puddle of water, and after the electronics went haywire. I fixed that by drying back all the water I could find on the electronics. Because Nick and I sometimes do some night-time driving there is a light up front so I can track where and which direction the truck is going.

If you want to see more progress with my MT410 RC repairs and other things do like this post so that I know the extra time posting is worth the efforts.

 

[D3MON]

always love watching peoples progress of builds, glad you are getting the truck figured out and getting to its former glory. i did more or less what you are doing for my AE Monster GT Builds for others down the road if they have questions that i figured out with mine, for others to check it out as i build and answer questions as i go, and for my personal use when/if i update something how and why i changed what i did. i still have had luck with the deans type connectors, though i havent tried with any lipos really at all besides a 2s 30c? pack awhile back.

 

[lcam88]

Cool, I don't know if I can answer any questions definitively, however I do appreciate the interest. I am very happy to be working on this rig. At the moment I have parts in for the sway bars, the rear diff gearbox, the hing pin inserts and the front bumper. As most everything rear end related are in besides the bearings. I could dig into those parts.

So keen eyed observers here would have noticed that I goofed! I purchased two identical sway bars. :/ For the front.

While putting fresh hinge pin inserts in the rear I found a bent screw holding down the right side of the C block. I took the opportunity to order new ones along with rear sway bars.

The inserts really made a difference tightening up the rear arms!

The D Block was using the inserts configured for a toe in.

ar

In the image, the new inserts as specified by the manual are above.

You can see how the specified inserts above have the hinge pin hole centered, while the ones that where installed have them a bit off center. That difference changes the angle of the arm and causes a toe in type configuration as installed.

The C block had centered holes.

Sorry about the grainy image :/

It is possible to notice how the holes are a bit oblong. Since installing new inserts, I must say the rear arms have much less play. Not zero play, there is still evidence of an oblong hole in the arm but that will become an issue for another day. I am very pleased with the outcome.

I suppose when servicing the diff care should be taken to avoid letting the hing pins deform the holes in the inserts.

Notice how the sway bar links are a bit tweaked. Front swaybars are shorter than their rear counterpart. This sway bar is a 2.8mm, the stock rear size that somehow was mis-ordered.

Here it is installed in the front; much better fitment.

 

[olds97_lss]

Some people like sway bars, others don't. For what I do, I don't usually run them. I took them off my outcast, more because I don't like dealing with them being in the way when working on the truck than anything, and with how I bash, I don't really care if there's a bit of sway. Then on the rear of my outcast, I repurposed the mounting holes on the diff case for the t-bone rear bumper/wheelie bar as I didn't care for how they had it mounted.

 

[lcam88]

Yes indeed. Body roll isn't really that big a deal ripping up and down the BMX track. And they do get in the way perhaps, one more thing to have to deal with when cleaning etc.

I've noticed that they reduce the amount of single wheel action the rig can sustain under it's own weight, by a little bit. For bash sessions over bigger rocks or more uneven surfaces it may be more fun to run rip without them.

I wonder if they help when on a high speed bash...

 

[D3MON]

that is so cool how they have adjustable inserts for the mounts for toe, have personally never seen that before.

for pavement/high grip turns etc i may try figuring out some sort of sway bar for my truck, but otherwise on looser dirt like parking lots, dirt roads i like how my truck handles and i dont really see how a sway bar would really benefit me, on pavement though mine likes lifting wheels and trying/succeeding to roll (is probably also me at fault for incorrect suspension setup for street, but thats all i have right now and soon will be mainly dirt anyway.

as far as screws etc, i have found this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-scr...X_grHcUNSKeXndmDAVNTbweouimLT1kRoC5hkQAvD_BwE
to be really nice to have on hand, not really necessary as most hardware you can get at Ace/LHS.

 

[lcam88]

Thanks for the tips!

Being my first RC, I had to have the sway bars. I think it would be more important at the track than while bashing.

Thanks for the nuts and bolts buy pack.

Those inserts adjust the angle of suspension arms, and consequently effect toe slightly in the rear. If used a bit differently I suppose you can make minute changes to the hinge angle relative the the plane of the chassis.

 

[olds97_lss]

as far as screws etc, i have found this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-scr...X_grHcUNSKeXndmDAVNTbweouimLT1kRoC5hkQAvD_BwE
to be really nice to have on hand, not really necessary as most hardware you can get at Ace/LHS.

Really? Stainless? They are too soft and easy to strip for my taste.

 

[lcam88]

Man those new bearings and replacement parts have the rig real tight. sweet. Just waiting on the last bit to drive it... waiting for the weather to clear up as I don't want to dirty my shiny new looking used rig.

A good cleanup and installation of the parts. I'm happy as a clam about it.

 

[lcam88]

I decided to buy a used ADM 15M servo for cheap on ebay until the JX 20kg arrives from CHINA. I can't believe amazon is arranging to have an item shipped in from the other side of the world like that.

I am starting to agree with the fellow member here who said he buys 4 at a time to always have one on hand.

 

[olds97_lss]

I decided to buy a used ADM 15M servo for cheap on ebay until the JX 20kg arrives from CHINA. I can't believe amazon is arranging to have an item shipped in from the other side of the world like that.

I am starting to agree with the fellow member here who said he buys 4 at a time to always have one on hand.

Should have just tried one of the ones from rcjuice.com. I paid $16 for the JX DC-5821LV that I threw in my ERBEv1.

 

[lcam88]

that DC-5821LV is on my short list. I like that one.

I rebuilt the rear shocks yesterday, emptied the old sludgy unknown shock oil, slim-greened the o-rings and refilled the shocks with some 55wt oil.

The Tekno manual specifies 700wt (presuming 700 cst) oil. Does anyone have information about which brand and how these weights convert between brand?

 

[olds97_lss]

Oils vary from brand to brand. So, you kind of just have to pick one and stick with that brand. I use mostly associated oils. They list them in cst and wt. I know their 80wt is listed as 1000cst.

 

[D3MON]

Really? Stainless? They are too soft and easy to strip for my taste.

Lol just happened to be the first screw kit I found, that said, haven't had issues with stainless for the most part except for the very cheaply constructed ones. Might have just been lucky though. Shock weights I usually use losi, but that's because its ally my lhs carries. It's amazing how smooth shocks work with new oil.

 

[lcam88]

Anyone use PT Racing shock oil or diff oil from Fierce rc?

 

[D3MON]

Anyone use PT Racing shock oil or diff oil from Fierce rc?

I have not, I don't know how much of a difference brand name really makes for shock oils and diff oils, just be aware that while could be similar, all the brands kind of make up their own WT rating, but CST is standard for all companies.

 

[lcam88]

On March 27 I'd installed new bearings from FastEddy. Sweet, yesterday I decided to check on them and see how the wheel axle hubs where doing.

5 of the 8 bearings where seized.

Yes, I ran it through water and bogged it in a water filled ditch. I washed the RC with Simple green and a hose. I WD-40'ed the articulations to get the water out of them. There was still evidence of rust (not dirt) in the bearings.

WD-40 washed the axles, axle hubs and the various pins, bearings and screws that form the axle hub assembly. I also packed the bearings with lithium grease after opening them and thoroughly cleaning them with WD-40 and compressed air. Fortunately they are still tight.

The surfaces of the axle hub that where mated to the seized bearings fortunately had grease on them so there is no scoring noticeable. I haven't driven the RC to much since the bearing change, maybe 4 batteries worth of run-time.

I would be happy leaving the inside seals off the bearings and putting drops of oil in them once a every two weeks or so. The inside of the bearings are in the plastic hub and largely protected from the elements.

To me, grease packed bearings are quite stiff, but since they are packed, material is escaping rather than entering. The bashing routine I do is certainly not friction sensitive enough to consider extra drag is critical. But I would prefer my bearing spinning properly rather than the axle hub sliding along the inner bearing surface. Does the drag introduced by the grease "risk" more axle hub wear?

Does anyone have comments about grease packed bearings on an RC?

 

[cbaker65]

I remember back in the day when I use to do a mod on the hubs!

I use to drill a small hole on the hub in between the bearings for an oil port to stick the WD-40 straw in ,then
a thread hole for a grub screw.
It worked great to blast out debris from non sealed bearings!...