Electronics and radio for xmaxx

[armykyle1]

Man, I would be impulsive, but my money doesn't agree! Life ain't cheap...all of my upgrades are well thought out and are "smart" upgrades! Yeah, drag racing must be expensive, what kind of car did you have for that (come'n brain, he did not have a proper dragster, ok? lol).

Yeah, both of those are nice rigs, but also cost a lot!
Hey, I saw a video on that radio the other day, isn't that Flyshy's top of the line, breaking edge technology radio that costs $300+? It is very nice I must say, but way overkill for most. Does have 18 channels, so you can control everything you could possibly want...I can't even think of 9 things that I would want to control, let alone 18 (who has that much crap to control anyway lol)!

2018 mustang. But yes, it gets very expensive, plus dangerous and illegal if you street race . The fuel I used was about $7 a gallon. Expensive tires, expensive upgraded parts etc. Hell the driveshaft I used was more then a new xmaxx. I'll eventually get back into racing but probably in more of a road course setup. Just gotta find the right car.

Like wolf said, it's a 4ch that I'm getting. Which should work with my trx4 to control the locker servos.

Theres two different Nobles. Theres the $400 18CH Noble Pro but they also have the Noble NB4 which is basically the same multi-handed design but its only 4CH and right now I just saw it on sale at HobbyKing for $175

That's a little cheaper than what I ordered but the one I ordered comes with the better receivers.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

2018 mustang. But yes, it gets very expensive, plus dangerous and illegal if you street race . The fuel I used was about $7 a gallon. Expensive tires, expensive upgraded parts etc. Hell the driveshaft I used was more then a new xmaxx. I'll eventually get back into racing but probably in more of a road course setup. Just gotta find the right car.

Like wolf said, it's a 4ch that I'm getting. Which should work with my trx4 to control the locker servos.





That's a little cheaper than what I ordered but the one I ordered comes with the better receivers.

Oh, nice, I don't know anything about Drag Racing though, lol. And the tires don't last nearly as long as normal ones!

Ok, I see, I wasn't aware of the 4ch version, but I haven't looked into this kinda stuff before.

Theres two different Nobles. Theres the $400 18CH Noble Pro but they also have the Noble NB4 which is basically the same multi-handed design but its only 4CH and right now I just saw it on sale at HobbyKing for $175

That's a good deal, almost half of the price of the 18ch! But you can't control all the crap in the world...

 

[armykyle1]

Most of the stuff is here minus the radio...

The castle 1100kv is too girthy to set the mesh right with the 54/25 mod1 gears. Gonna try a 30t pinion I guess and probably get the wfo gears... I hate how obnoxious these trucks sound with those gears..

 

[Greywolf74]

Did you try that Motor Mount that Tunedpipe used? I dont believe he had that issue afaik.

 

[armykyle1]

Did you try that Motor Mount that Tunedpipe used? I dont believe he had that issue afaik.

The castle 1100kv is a bit longer than the hw 1100. The back of the motor is resting on the chassis. From what I've gathered, the castle 800, 1100 and hw 800 are all about the same size.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I am using the WFO motor mount but I do have issues. Using the HW 1100kv I have the same issue as @armykyle1 I am limited to using 23/54 gearing because of the size of the can. I don't have a huge selection of gears right now other than the 48t, 50t and 54t spurs and a few pinions. I also bought a stock Xmaxx motor but not sure if I'm going to use it in the X because I actually like the gearing. I've only ran it on 6s so far so that may change after running 8s.
I started getting busy with other projects but I will get back on the X eventually.

 

[armykyle1]

I am using the WFO motor mount but I do have issues. Using the HW 1100kv I have the same issue as @armykyle1 I am limited to using 23/54 gearing because of the size of the can. I don't have a huge selection of gears right now other than the 48t, 50t and 54t spurs and a few pinions. I also bought a stock Xmaxx motor but not sure if I'm going to use it in the X because I actually like the gearing. I've only ran it on 6s so far so that may change after running 8s.
I started getting busy with other projects but I will get back on the X eventually.

Does the HW 1100kv fit in the mount area? The castle hangs over a good bit. Hopefully 30/54 will work for me. Took some pictures before I left for work.

The grub screw isn't in on this video but it didn't make much of a difference. This is the motor completely bottomed out.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Most of the stuff is here minus the radio...

The castle 1100kv is too girthy to set the mesh right with the 54/25 mod1 gears. Gonna try a 30t pinion I guess and probably get the wfo gears... I hate how obnoxious these trucks sound with those gears..

View attachment 137015

I see a color preference here....

That's a BIG motor! You may get grief on the Integy parts, they are "a bit" controversial! What sound are you talking about? I don't own big trucks, only my 144001 (1/14 scale buggy), so I'm curious what sound you're talking about.

 

[armykyle1]

I see a color preference here....

That's a BIG motor! You may get grief on the Integy parts, they are "a bit" controversial! What sound are you talking about? I don't own big trucks, only my 144001 (1/14 scale buggy), so I'm curious what sound you're talking about.

I got the truck as incomplete roller. Not my first choice of colors but I liked the way it looked. I've seen a lot of back and fourth about their parts. They do feel a little on the cheap side. But the shocks seems extremely nice. They're very very smooth and the shock shaft is a little bigger than stock.

Open gear rigs are more noisy. Like a lot of the bigger arrma have exposed spur/pinion gears. Which is noisier. It can sound kind of cool. But the videos I've seen of trucks with wfo gears, seem a bit obnoxious. You also lose the dampening of the cush drive.

 

[Greywolf74]

you're not far from having a good gear mesh with a 25T pinion. You should be able to get there with a 27-30T pinion. Is the motor mount the limiting factory here or is the motor hitting the chassis or something?

 

[armykyle1]

you're not far from having a good gear mesh with a 25T pinion. You should be able to get there with a 27-30T pinion. Is the motor mount the limiting factory here or is the motor hitting the chassis or something?

I was thinking 27t would work too but I don't want to have $200 in pinion gears if it didn't .

So the the motor mount area is a little lower the rest of the chassis. With the castle motor being so long, it over hangs that area by about an inch. With a HW 1100kv I think you'd get a few more mm of clearance before it bottomed out on the motor mount. I drew a line of where the motor starts hitting the chassis.

 

[tntpoof]

id redo that center tab w motor wire to me looks kind of cold wear tab meets wire.

 

[Greywolf74]

I was thinking 27t would work too but I don't want to have $200 in pinion gears if it didn't .

So the the motor mount area is a little lower the rest of the chassis. With the castle motor being so long, it over hangs that area by about an inch. With a HW 1100kv I think you'd get a few more mm of clearance before it bottomed out on the motor mount. I drew a line of where the motor starts hitting the chassis. View attachment 137047

I see what you mean. Could use flatten that raised lip under the can to gain an extra mm or 2 of room? It wouldnt take much to get your mesh right with that 25T pinion if thats a possibility.

 

[armykyle1]

id redo that center tab w motor wire to me looks kind of cold wear tab meets wire.

I'll probably leave it alone. I'm still pretty new to this and that's how they sent it.

I see what you mean. Could use flatten that raised lip under the can to gain an extra mm or 2 of room? It wouldnt take much to get your mesh right with that 25T pinion if thats a possibility.

The lip flattens out to the middle. I did shave them down more, the ridges on the motor are touching the center of the chassis.

that's stock

 

[Greywolf74]

Gotchya

 

[armykyle1]

I'm definitely far from a pro but that cheap soldering station you suggested @Greywolf74 works perfectly. I probably went way overboard on the solder but whatever. Tinned everything first, which was super easy with the fat blade tip. Got everything secured nicely then added some solder on top.

I used some leftover 8ga wire that I used for a speaker wire before. High strand count, silver tinned ofc wire. It's a tad thicker than the 8awg wire that came with the esc. I'll most likely shorten these eventually. These connectors make the wire look tiny...

 

[Greywolf74]

What soldering station was that? I dont remember. The soldering looks fine man. Youll get better the more you do but so far looks fine

 

[armykyle1]

What soldering station was that? I dont remember. The soldering looks fine man. Youll get better the more you do but so far looks fine

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093S2M12...abc_EP154J97CAJR1G1GSDNX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's actually the first time I've used an actual station. Holy crap it's so much better. I've always used portable guns. Typically soldering while in a car or something.

 

[Greywolf74]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093S2M12...abc_EP154J97CAJR1G1GSDNX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It's actually the first time I've used an actual station. Holy crap it's so much better. I've always used portable guns. Typically soldering while in a car or something.

Oh yeah, I remember that station now. glad its working out for you.

 

[armykyle1]

Getting closer. This thing is pretty nice and much lighter than you would think. Smaller too. The trigger could be a little heavier imo but it's super super smooth.