Dumbest RC related thing you have ever done?

[STONER RC]

Hmm quite a bit actually lol. From installing a diff backwards to forgetting screws to diff cases that then took a good 20 mins to tear the rig back apart and install the screws. Also have sent rigs at my face numerous times and thankfully was able to high five them out of the way or side step and just get missed here's one, I almost took my Bigrock to the face but high fived it to stop it. Couldn't move as my daughter was standing directly behind me a couple feet so if I moved it would have taken her outif you look at the end of the video you'll see her shadow standing right behind me.

Nice save dad!!

pre brushless lithium explosion circa 2008

my first go with a conversion of a Nitro to Brushless using a 4074 2000kv inrunner motor intended for large air , a 4s 4000mah 30c soft pack also intended for sky, and the original HobbyWing xerun 150 esc, original flysky 2ch 2.4 radio.

The metal beast Nitro Quake full running weight of 14 pounds...

I'm holding the truck in my arms while buttoning up the final touches for initial run, and derp der here switches on the truck first...

Luckily one of the center output cups grub screw sheered quickly, otherwise id have needed skin grafts on my entire left arm and chest...

Lol

I once accidentally did a burnout with my Typhon on my leg, I was testing to see if it hit LVC or not and the gyroscopic force of it brought it to my knee...

Oh yes the good Ole rc tire tatoo.. I've had that one before. Pretty sure most of the guys here have had that tattoo..

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Hi guys, I thought it'd be interesting to make a thread where we can share our dumb moments, and face palm worthy desicions! This isn't to poke fun at anyone, we can all learn from each other's mistakes! I'll start:

A week ago, I was trying to seperate the deans connectors on my new SG 1601, and it was not fun. Brand new deans connectors like a lot of things are a bit stiff, once you break 'em in they are much easier to seperate (pro tip, I've found that leaving the connectors connected with the ESC turned off for a handful of hours will soften up the little metal tabs a bit, don't overdo it though). I couldn't get enough grip with my fingers to pull it fully apart, so I had this "bright" idea, I took my screw driver with a thin flathead tip in it, and stuck it into the small crack between the connectors, and pryed them apart. However, the flat head bit is metal, and it touched both contact tabs on the connector, shorting the battery! So there was a couple of sparks, and tiny bit of smoke. Luckily, I pulled the flathead out real fast, so the Li-ion pack didn't go up in flames (good thing Li-Ions are harder to catch fire then LiPos). Now, some part of my brain didn't fully register what I just did, so I pulled the connectors a little bit more with my fingers, then promptly stuck the screwdriver back in! And there was little more smoke...

So in the end, nothing caught fire (phew!), and I've learned an important lesson, DO NOT use screwdrivers to pry battery connectors apart!! Now there is a small black singe mark on the ESC plug to remind me of that!

 

[tntpoof]

you can also pre fit the connector together with no leds and let them sit you can also use a small drill drill the negative side so you can use a set of C clip pliers to help you

 

[watertrucker]

A few years back I smashed my brand new Nitro Rustler head on into a curb. Doh!!!

 

[The_RC_Dude]

you can also pre fit the connector together with no leds and let them sit you can also use a small drill drill the negative side so you can use a set of C clip pliers to help you

Yeah, but the deans came stock with the car, I didn't solder them on, and plus I don't have a soldering iron and don't know how to solder (though I will get one and learn one day). So you mean drill a small hole in the male negative metal tab, and then use one of the small hooks on the tips of the pliers to help me undo the connector? But I would still have to pry them apart far enough to get to the hole, and plus you'd need a set of pliers around. I'm also a bit wary (to say the least) about drilling a hole in anything connected to a battery. Just let them sit for a little bit connected and you're good to go! You could also get some needle nose pliers, and pinch each of the tabs on the male end of the connector a few times to get them more flexible, I tried that too.

 

[biggman100]

Hi guys, I thought it'd be interesting to make a thread where we can share our dumb moments, and face palm worthy desicions! This isn't to poke fun at anyone, we can all learn from each other's mistakes! I'll start:

A week ago, I was trying to seperate the deans connectors on my new SG 1601, and it was not fun. Brand new deans connectors like a lot of things are a bit stiff, once you break 'em in they are much easier to seperate (pro tip, I've found that leaving the connectors connected with the ESC turned off for a handful of hours will soften up the little metal tabs a bit, don't overdo it though). I couldn't get enough grip with my fingers to pull it fully apart, so I had this "bright" idea, I took my screw driver with a thin flathead tip in it, and stuck it into the small crack between the connectors, and pryed them apart. However, the flat head bit is metal, and it touched both contact tabs on the connector, shorting the battery! So there was a couple of sparks, and tiny bit of smoke. Luckily, I pulled the flathead out real fast, so the Li-ion pack didn't go up in flames (good thing Li-Ions are harder to catch fire then LiPos). Now, some part of my brain didn't fully register what I just did, so I pulled the connectors a little bit more with my fingers, then promptly stuck the screwdriver back in! And there was little more smoke...

So in the end, nothing caught fire (phew!), and I've learned an important lesson, DO NOT use screwdrivers to pry battery connectors apart!! Now there is a small black singe mark on the ESC plug to remind me of that!

I could write a book about all the dumb stuff i have done. Some of the highlights include plugging in the servo and ESC in the wrong spot on the receiver and having a truck take off when i turned the wheel on the radio, accidently hitting the steering reverse switch on the radio and taking a hard left into a wall with a brand new at the time Arrma fury, or, one of my favorites was, i had a receiver that had 2 CH1 connections for trucks with dual steering, and i plugged the ESC and steering both into channel one, and watched a Racers Edge go in circles every time i would turn the wheel. If i turned right, it went forward, and, if i turned left, it went backwards. I have also plugged a LIPO into a brushed ESC, that was fully charged, and the truck wouldnt move because i didnt switch the jumper to LIPO. It took me 20 minutes to figure that one out.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I could write a book about all the dumb stuff i have done. Some of the highlights include plugging in the servo and ESC in the wrong spot on the receiver and having a truck take off when i turned the wheel on the radio, accidently hitting the steering reverse switch on the radio and taking a hard left into a wall with a brand new at the time Arrma fury, or, one of my favorites was, i had a receiver that had 2 CH1 connections for trucks with dual steering, and i plugged the ESC and steering both into channel one, and watched a Racers Edge go in circles every time i would turn the wheel. If i turned right, it went forward, and, if i turned left, it went backwards. I have also plugged a LIPO into a brushed ESC, that was fully charged, and the truck wouldnt move because i didnt switch the jumper to LIPO. It took me 20 minutes to figure that one out.

Lol! Just remember 1 to turn, 2 to burn (rubber), for your receiver ports! I would think that the ESC should still take a LiPo in NiMh mode, unless the voltage was too high.

 

[biggman100]

Lol! Just remember 1 to turn, 2 to burn (rubber), for your receiver ports! I would think that the ESC should still take a LiPo in NiMh mode, unless the voltage was too high.

It was an older Redcat ESC, before they went to rebranded HW stuff. I also had one from HobbyKing that acted the same way.

 

[WideOpen]

Over tightening a spring on a recoil that is no longer available

 

[The_RC_Dude]

It was an older Redcat ESC, before they went to rebranded HW stuff. I also had one from HobbyKing that acted the same way.

Interesting, my HW Quicrun 1060 brushed ESC has two jumpers too, one of them is LiPo/NiMh, and I think I could run a LiPo in the NiMh mode, granted I'd lose the LVC which you want, but yeah. I can't test out this theory though, as my Quicrun 1060 is back in the box after a year of use, as I'm running a brushless system now.

Over tightening a spring on a recoil that is no longer available

So you damaged that spring by over pre-loading/compressing it? That'd be frustrating, though I'm sure you can source a new spring from somewhere else, like a hardware store. Did you ever manage to fix it?

 

[Tunedfrog]

Using non polycarbonate paint on polycarbonate body.

 

[biggman100]

Interesting, my HW Quicrun 1060 brushed ESC has two jumpers too, one of them is LiPo/NiMh, and I think I could run a LiPo in the NiMh mode, granted I'd lose the LVC which you want, but yeah. I can't test out this theory though, as my Quicrun 1060 is back in the box after a year of use, as I'm running a brushless system now.

So you damaged that spring by over pre-loading/compressing it? That'd be frustrating, though I'm sure you can source a new spring from somewhere else, like a hardware store. Did you ever manage to fix it?

HW stuff you can run lipo batteries with the ESC in NIMH mode, but, alot of the cheap Chinese ones wont do that, especially if they are the under $20 ones. This is the one my original Volcano came with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3331649755...G-hVc2D3-L_TofTVYYnZAidMUpPBvpukaAqpYEALw_wcB Newer Redcat stuff comes with rebranded HW stuff.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

HW stuff you can run lipo batteries with the ESC in NIMH mode, but, alot of the cheap Chinese ones wont do that, especially if they are the under $20 ones. This is the one my original Volcano came with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333164975590?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1pCChQfEtT8iA1xN8ZZGojA57&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=333164975590&targetid=1262906534562&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9005776&poi=&campaignid=15275224983&mkgroupid=131097072938&rlsatarget=pla-1262906534562&abcId=9300697&merchantid=101497757&gclid=Cj0KCQiAip-PBhDVARIsAPP2xc3sxSPlzHadgH0SJOjXR-6G-hVc2D3-L_TofTVYYnZAidMUpPBvpukaAqpYEALw_wcB Newer Redcat stuff comes with rebranded HW stuff.

I see, I bought the Quicrun off Amazon for like $24 IIRC? If you still have those rigs and need a new brushed ESC look into the Quicrun 1060, it's for 1/10 scale cars (I used it in my 1/14 scale buggy lol), and does 60a continuous, which ain't too "shabby"! Plus it's not pricey

 

[The_RC_Dude]

A few years back I smashed my brand new Nitro Rustler head on into a curb. Doh!!!

Oof! I guess you weren't yet familiar with the car? I take it nice and easy when driving, helps avoid many crashes and broken parts, as well as a cleaner rig. We all know from experience that it hurts when your new toy gets some battle scars...lol!

Using non polycarbonate paint on polycarbonate body.

I'm guessing the paint didn't "stick" well or the finish was bad?

 

[Tunedfrog]

No, RC bodies are polycarbonate so it needs paint that is made for polycarbonate plastic.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

No, RC bodies are polycarbonate so it needs paint that is made for polycarbonate plastic.

Yeah, I know that RC body shell are polycarb. Did you make a mistake when buying the paint?

 

[Doom!]

Never bump the throttle with your elbow when you are working on your rc plane in the living room, fortunately I was hanging on to it at the time, unfortunately the prop whacked my shin a few good ones before I could shut it off. Mrs. Doom just asked "Do I want to know?" It did smart a bit, and some blood and tissue, fortunately not a lot of meat on your shin.

* Pro Tip - take the prop off when working on your plane indoors.

 

[WickedFog]

Never bump the throttle with your elbow when you are working on your rc plane in the living room, fortunately I was hanging on to it at the time, unfortunately the prop whacked my shin a few good ones before I could shut it off. Mrs. Doom just asked "Do I want to know?" It did smart a bit, and some blood and tissue, fortunately not a lot of meat on your shin.

* Pro Tip - take the prop off when working on your plane indoors.

I've seen some horrific pictures of prop damage to people's arms. I can view images like that and not be too bad. But some of the images I saw with internal parts of someone's arm hanging out of the gaping wounds just shouldn't be on the web. So when I was into drones, I never once worked on them with the props on. Heck, I was scared just plugging the batteries in. It's even worse than sticking your hand in a table saw.

I did however have deep scars on my arm for many years from the spikes on the tires of my first RC buggy

 

[Tunedfrog]

Yeah, I know that RC body shell are polycarb. Did you make a mistake when buying the paint?

No, just a stupid rookie mistake.

 

[Penguin Fart Racing]

Hi guys, I thought it'd be interesting to make a thread where we can share our dumb moments, and face palm worthy desicions! This isn't to poke fun at anyone, we can all learn from each other's mistakes! I'll start:

A week ago, I was trying to seperate the deans connectors on my new SG 1601, and it was not fun. Brand new deans connectors like a lot of things are a bit stiff, once you break 'em in they are much easier to seperate (pro tip, I've found that leaving the connectors connected with the ESC turned off for a handful of hours will soften up the little metal tabs a bit, don't overdo it though). I couldn't get enough grip with my fingers to pull it fully apart, so I had this "bright" idea, I took my screw driver with a thin flathead tip in it, and stuck it into the small crack between the connectors, and pryed them apart. However, the flat head bit is metal, and it touched both contact tabs on the connector, shorting the battery! So there was a couple of sparks, and tiny bit of smoke. Luckily, I pulled the flathead out real fast, so the Li-ion pack didn't go up in flames (good thing Li-Ions are harder to catch fire then LiPos). Now, some part of my brain didn't fully register what I just did, so I pulled the connectors a little bit more with my fingers, then promptly stuck the screwdriver back in! And there was little more smoke...

So in the end, nothing caught fire (phew!), and I've learned an important lesson, DO NOT use screwdrivers to pry battery connectors apart!! Now there is a small black singe mark on the ESC plug to remind me of that!

I use DEAN'S a lot. To give me a better grip, I use. a door of hot melt adhesive and the neon bright extra string string builders and gardeners use when they need a straight line. Begin by applying a drop of the hit melt then press the builders string into the adhesive. After cooking a bit, weave the string through and around the soldered connectors on the backside of the DEAN'S PLUG. Keep alternating string and electrically insulating hot melt adhesive. This builds up on the back of the plug to make for a better grip. Will attach a photo of this tip soon in another post.

Hi guys, I thought it'd be interesting to make a thread where we can share our dumb moments, and face palm worthy desicions! This isn't to poke fun at anyone, we can all learn from each other's mistakes! I'll start:

A week ago, I was trying to seperate the deans connectors on my new SG 1601, and it was not fun. Brand new deans connectors like a lot of things are a bit stiff, once you break 'em in they are much easier to seperate (pro tip, I've found that leaving the connectors connected with the ESC turned off for a handful of hours will soften up the little metal tabs a bit, don't overdo it though). I couldn't get enough grip with my fingers to pull it fully apart, so I had this "bright" idea, I took my screw driver with a thin flathead tip in it, and stuck it into the small crack between the connectors, and pryed them apart. However, the flat head bit is metal, and it touched both contact tabs on the connector, shorting the battery! So there was a couple of sparks, and tiny bit of smoke. Luckily, I pulled the flathead out real fast, so the Li-ion pack didn't go up in flames (good thing Li-Ions are harder to catch fire then LiPos). Now, some part of my brain didn't fully register what I just did, so I pulled the connectors a little bit more with my fingers, then promptly stuck the screwdriver back in! And there was little more smoke...

So in the end, nothing caught fire (phew!), and I've learned an important lesson, DO NOT use screwdrivers to pry battery connectors apart!! Now there is a small black singe mark on the ESC plug to remind me of that!

Sorry for dual posts, did not have a PIX of my hot melt and string DEAN'S mod; here it is