Downsides to using velcro instead of body clips to secure the shell?

[The_RC_Dude]

Hi everyone, yesterday I ordered a roll of hook-and-loop (Velcro is a brand that makes it), mainly to replace the 2 body clips on my buggy. You've probably seen this conversion before, where people do away with the body clips and instead stick some hook-and-loop on the side guards of the chassis (or whatever they're called, can't think of the right term right now) and the inside of the body (where the body contacts the side guards). This eleminates the need for body clips (I haven't lost any yet, still using the 2 that came with my buggy, thanks to my little Gorilla tape body-clip-retainer thing, similar to what Arrma vehicles use). The reason I'm doing this is mainly to make putting on/taking off the body easier, as it's a bit fidly, because the clips on my 1:14 scale buggy are smaller than, say, 1/10 clips, and the cold fingers (in the winter) and wires pushing against the low-profile body don't make it any easier. I plan on keeping the body posts, this way the body will sit in the same place every time I put it on. Are there any hidden disadvantages to using hook-and-loop to secure the body that I'm not seeing? Thanks!

 

[WickedFog]

The only that I can think of is the repetitious pulling on the body there may pull the paint away eventually. The side guards are called "nerf bars" on buggies and such, and rock rails on rock crawlers. I am sure there are other names.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The only that I can think of is the repetitious pulling on the body there may pull the paint away eventually. The side guards are called "nerf bars" on buggies and such, and rock rails on rock crawlers. I am sure there are other names.

Ok, thanks! I'll try to pull it by the hook-and-loop on the inside of the body instead of pulling on the side of the body. I'm running the stock body, and you can get replacement bodies + stock wings for ~$8, so they aren't super pricey or rare, plus it's not like mine is in mint condition (still looks good, just a few small spots where the paint got rubbed/worn away!). Aren't there also Nerf bars on real vehicles, with the Nerf foam? (funny side note, one of my other hobbies is modding Nerf blasters! Unlike what a lot of people think, the foam that's used for our darts are not the same kind of foam used on cars)

 

[WickedFog]

Aren't there also Nerf bars on real vehicles, with the Nerf foam?

Not sure?

 

[Stigtheone]

I would have thought at speed it might lose the body using velcro! Suppose you learn something new every day lol

 

[tntpoof]

velcro is a bad idea. i have used a much stronger item 3 m dual lock. i found any of these to fail whether by speed or impact or just pulling apart. reinforce the body to maintain clips or maybe a urethane washer .

 

[Xraycer]

The only rig I have that has a Velcro system is my 1/10 Redcat crawler. I really like it over body clips. After repeated dismounting, the edges of the Velcro strips started to lift. I applied a thin bead of E6000 adhesive (similar to ShooGoo) along the entire edges of all the Velcro, and this has been working great for months now.
That being said, I just wouldn't trust a Velcro body mounting system to my high speed rigs. Body clips have been the standard in the industry for a reason, they work!

 

[RustyUs]

For the last twenty years, or so, I thought the norm was to use hook and loop material to secure your lid on your race rig (buggies anyway). I used to use Velcro on my 90's Team Car body, but got away from using the stuff for unknown reasons. Some of the manuals in the last decade have "Racers Tips" in the back that suggest using hook and loop tape. Heck, some of the newer RC buggies don't even have body posts to even consider using pins . If you got a good snug fitting body... go for it.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I would have thought at speed it might lose the body using velcro! Suppose you learn something new every day lol

I don't think that would be likely, my Wltoys 144001 is the buggy on my profile pic, if you take a closer look, you can see that it's a pretty low profile body, and air can only get in through the 2 front air intake cutouts (I've trimmed them a bit to allow more air for better cooling). If it was, say, a MT or SCT body, that might be an issue. Plus, I'm not going 60mph, my rig peaks out at ~37mph in ideal conditions. Thanks for the concern though! I'll keep an eye on the body/velcro when I do the conversion (hook-and-loop is supposed to arrive today (by Amazon).

Quick side note to anyone reading, I'm almost finished with converting my 144001 to brushless, the rest of the parts I ordered (motor+ESC, motor mount, and motor/mount screws) came yesterday. Just need to finish tiding up the wires, and I'll update my brushless conversion thread.

Not sure?

So the extended side guards on SCTs are called nerf bars too? LC Racing calls them "dirt guards" on all of their cars, which is another option, albeit less popular (so I've seen at least).

velcro is a bad idea. i have used a much stronger item 3 m dual lock. i found any of these to fail whether by speed or impact or just pulling apart. reinforce the body to maintain clips or maybe a urethane washer .

I don't think that would be likely, my Wltoys 144001 is the buggy on my profile pic, if you take a closer look, you can see that it's a pretty low profile body, and air can only get in through the 2 front air intake cutouts (I've trimmed them a bit to allow more air for better cooling). If it was, say, a MT or SCT body, that might be an issue. Plus, I'm not going 60mph, my rig peaks out at ~37mph in ideal conditions.

Thanks for the concern though! I'll keep an eye on the body/velcro when I do the conversion (hook-and-loop is supposed to arrive today (by Amazon). My shell/body is in good condition, due to the fact that it's a buggy, so it's stable and will only flip if you're really trying (and I'm a more "conservative" driver, so I almost never flip my buggy). I backed the body with Gorilla tape months ago, but it's overkill, as the shell never takes an impact! I'm converting because it'll be easier to get the body on/off with gloves and/or cold fingers (in the winter). The 2 body post holes in the body have been reinforced with Gorilla tape too, and the holes are not in any danger of ripping/cracking. I think I'm going to try the velcro, but I'll convert back to clips if the velcro isn't good (BTW it just arrived!).

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The only rig I have that has a Velcro system is my 1/10 Redcat crawler. I really like it over body clips. After repeated dismounting, the edges of the Velcro strips started to lift. I applied a thin bead of E6000 adhesive (similar to ShooGoo) along the entire edges of all the Velcro, and this has been working great for months now.
That being said, I just wouldn't trust a Velcro body mounting system to my high speed rigs. Body clips have been the standard in the industry for a reason, they work!

Ok, cool! I'll probably run into that issue too, I'll probably use hot glue or a little drop of Gorilla glue to secure it. I'd like to avoid attaching something to the shell (semi?) permanently.

I'm not going too fast with my rig, and because of how I drive and how it's a buggy, the body never takes an impact in a crash. I'll convert back to clips if I'm having issues with the hook-and-loop though.

For the last twenty years, or so, I thought the norm was to use hook and loop material to secure your lid on your race rig (buggies anyway). I used to use Velcro on my 90's Team Car body, but got away from using the stuff for unknown reasons. Some of the manuals in the last decade have "Racers Tips" in the back that suggest using hook and loop tape. Heck, some of the newer RC buggies don't even have body posts to even consider using pins . If you got a good snug fitting body... go for it.

Yep, it's a pretty low profile body (my buggy is the one in my profile picture), and it's never taken an impact in a crash before. The hook-and-loop just arrived, so I'm gonna try it out soon.

 

[Greywolf74]

Your lid may pop off more often after crashes and what not than clips but other than that shouldnt be to much of an issue. I prefer to use prolines body fasteners. Easier than clips but tougher than velcro.

https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...t-for-pro-line-body-mount-kits/PRO607002.html

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Your lid may pop off more often after crashes and what not than clips but other than that shouldnt be to much of an issue. I prefer to use prolines body fasteners. Easier than clips but tougher than velcro.

https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...t-for-pro-line-body-mount-kits/PRO607002.html

Oh, cool! I've never seen a body retaining system exactly like that before, closest I've seen is the system where your body is held on with screws, but I have no interest in that system (my shell isn't a a scale one like with some crawlers, so I don't need it), because then I would need to bring a screwdriver with me too! Yours is pretty neat it looks like it's a thumbscrew! See my replies to other people below, I explained there why my body probably won't fly off (or at least, hopefully not) when running. Thanks for the input!

 

[Greywolf74]

Oh, cool! I've never seen a body retaining system exactly like that before, closest I've seen is the system where your body is held on with screws, but I have no interest in that system (my shell isn't a a scale one like with some crawlers, so I don't need it), because then I would need to bring a screwdriver with me too! Yours is pretty neat it looks like it's a thumbscrew! See my replies to other people below, I explained there why my body probably won't fly off (or at least, hopefully not) when running. Thanks for the input!

Yeah the proline system uses a type of thumbscrew. I've got them on my Kraton.

I read the other posts. I wouldnt think it would pop off just from running but in a wreck it will probably pop off easier. Its not really an issue though if it does

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Yeah the proline system uses a type of thumbscrew. I've got them on my Kraton.

I read the other posts. I wouldnt think it would pop off just from running but in a wreck it will probably pop off easier. Its not really an issue though if it does

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I meant my replies to the other members' comments. Specifically, this:
"I don't think that would be likely, my Wltoys 144001 is the buggy on my profile pic, if you take a closer look, you can see that it's a pretty low profile body, and air can only get in through the 2 front air intake cutouts (I've trimmed them a bit to allow more air for better cooling). If it was, say, a MT or SCT body, that might be an issue. Plus, I'm not going 60mph, my rig peaks out at ~37mph in ideal conditions."

And: "I'm not going too fast with my rig, and because of how I drive and how it's a buggy, the body never takes an impact in a crash. I'll convert back to clips if I'm having issues with the hook-and-loop though."

I use my own custom body-clip-pull-thing, it's simple, just a looped ziptie (threaded around the "eye' of the clip of course), it's not pulled tight (just a little bigger than my finger with gloves on). Main issue I have is putting the clips back in, especially with gloves and/or cold fingers.

I did the conversion last night, I'll try to post some pictures of that in this thread or a new one. I've still kept the body clips on their little "tether" I made for them (RN they're taped down on the shell so they won't flap around) which is connected to the shell with Gorilla tape, just in case something goes wrong with the hook-and-loop during running (once I've made sure they won't fail unexpectedly I'll probably take the clips off). Cheers!

 

[ahr43]

A word of caution on velcro types if I may. Stay with a quality commercial grade velcro. Stay away from the medical grade. The package is marked 'medical grade' or something to that effect if it is. Once a hook -and- loop medical grade goes together, its hell on wheels to get it apart again.

Steer clear of cheap off-brand velcro. It will hook -and- loop, yeah. But what happens-in my experience at least-is the adhesive separates from the velcro instead of releasing at the pile.

As an aside and a bit of a wander from your thread, Spektrum used to advise against velcro fastening of its receivers to a chassis. Don't know why or if they still do. FWIW. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'