De-Anodizing and Re-Anodizing

[$Revo_Racer$]

I am looking into de-anodizing my chassis and then I wanted to re-anodize it in the same color(titaniumish?) as the 2008 Revo Platinium. How do you anodize to get that color. Any links to de-anodizing and anodizing would be appreciated .

 

[frickenjoey]

You can De-anno with Grease Lightning in a tub with some steel wool and elbow grease but re-anno takes a lot of chemicals that you are not going to pick up at the hardware store. That is probaly not going to happen for ya. Once you strip it....it is pretty much stripped unless you paint it or powder coat.

 

[Phins Fan]

PM Sent!!

 

[big specht]

I would like to reanodize some bike rims too

 

[frickenjoey]

It CAN be done in the garage but takes a lot of battery acid and and a few other caustic chemicals. You also need a HEFTY 12 power supply. Unless you are used to working with acid it is not a real good beginners sort of project. I have done it in small scale and it worked ok but still....can be dangerous, caustic spills, fumes, burns ect....Only done with warning. Again...there is risk involved.

 

[Greywolf74]

Is there a site that you can use that will un-ano and re-ano your stuff different colors? and is it expensive?

 

[$Revo_Racer$]

I have researched it quite a bit... and I think I could do it...after some practice, but I have no idea how to anodize and get that titanium look the revo platinium has.

 

[Phins Fan]

Greywolf - There isnt really a site that you can do this. You can Youtube it but by the time you get everything together to actually reanodize something you will find that not only is it a disposal nightmare but unless you really know what you are doing you will probably fubar any part you try to anodize.

Revo Racer - The "Titanium" look is actually a thinner Hardcoat anodize in which you have to keep the sulfuric acid between 28-32 degrees to get that type of coating "color". Its whats typically known as a Type 3 anodize as opposed to a Type 2 anodize that is typically processed at 68 - 72 degrees and dyed whatever color you are trying to achieve and followed by a subsequent seal to hold in the colored anodize

 

[MethaneJunkie]

The eastwood company make a great anodizing kit and it only runs ya about $175 and it comes with pretty much everything you need to start annodizing

 

[Phins Fan]

Disposing of the sulfuric acid afterwards is going to cost you 2x the amount of the kit. And then you have the Chromic based dyes that will run close to double that price because they have hexvalent chrome in them (the type that causes cancer!!). Not to mention you have to "seal" in those applied colors with a Nickel acetate seal of 200-220. I suppose you could pour it all down the drain if you dont mind a few more 3 eyed fish!!! I'm not a huge tree hugger but if you or anybody is going to do it yourself you need to think the whole process thru!

 

[alien13]

Do a google search for anodizing in your area. Find a place and email them. I emailed one near me, $10 to de-ano, $55.00 to anodize, depending on quantity. You're better off having a professional do it, or at lease somebody else who can take the fall for dealing with the chemicals.

 

[Phins Fan]

$65 is a real good lot charge. Do you remember who they were? We typically charge about $105 for a strip and reanodize process.

 

[Snook Man]

You will never get the same professional results at home with an anodizing kit or making your own system but you can get some decent results.

Disposing of the sulfuric acid afterwards is going to cost you 2x the amount of the kit

I have done some anodizing in my garage and my local tire/battery shop disposed of the acid for free.

And then you have the Chromic based dyes that will run close to double that price because they have hexvalent chrome in them (the type that causes cancer!!)

I used simple RIT dye which worked ok.

Not to mention you have to "seal" in those applied colors with a Nickel acetate seal of 200-220

Sealing with a home based kit was just a simple matter of cold water at the correct time of the process.

if you or anybody is going to do it yourself you need to think the whole process thru!

I totally agree... But, with a little preparation and common safety sense, it’s really no more dangerous than a firecracker could be on the 4th of July and I’m sure most of us are guilty of that.

 

[alien13]

$65 is a real good lot charge. Do you remember who they were? We typically charge about $105 for a strip and reanodize process.

http://www.gbanodizinginc.com/

 

[Rolex]

with a little preparation and common safety sense, it’s really no more dangerous than a firecracker could be on the 4th of July and I’m sure most of us are guilty of that.

Just remember, EVERY year firecrackers maim, blind and kill.

 

[Snook Man]

Trust me, I know. My best friend in high school lost an eye to a firecracker while I was sitting next to him.

 

[alien13]

I looked at the Eastwood anodizing kit. I would really advise calling a local anodizer to do it. Ask if you get a better price for bulk, maybe get some friends together to split the cost. It'll be safer.

 

[Phins Fan]

You will never get the same professional results at home with an anodizing kit or making your own system but you can get some decent results.




I have done some anodizing in my garage and my local tire/battery shop disposed of the acid for free.

The anodize bath itself yes, but they typically dont touch most of the precleaners or activators


I used simple RIT dye which worked ok.


RIT will "work" but it will fade extremely fast and sooner rather than later typically look worse than before you started.

Sealing with a home based kit was just a simple matter of cold water at the correct time of the process.


Cold water will not properly seal the applied colors into the anodize. It will actually cause them to "bleach" some color out as simple tap water has chlorine which will act like a bleaching agent. You could use deinoized boiling water but typically a nickel acetate is used to properly close the pores of the applied anodize and truly seal the applied colors into the product.

I totally agree... But, with a little preparation and common safety sense, it’s really no more dangerous than a firecracker could be on the 4th of July and I’m sure most of us are guilty of that.

Seen plenty of people with spaghetti fingers after a firecracker went off in thier hand. That said common sense isnt as common as some of us would think. Proper chemistries, concentrations, ph, temperatures, DC power supply processing at 10-12 ASF, proper dyes (Both chemically and temp wise), and proper sealing techniques are all part of the needs for proper application of an anodic coating.

All that said it can be done at home but not recommended. I've been in the business for 18+ years and have seen plenty of injured employees who had no common sense an some actually suffered permenant injuries from this type of process.

 

[jk6672]

you can't go wrong with Phins Fan, he did a great job on my Revo parts!

 

[Phins Fan]

Thanks for the plug JK. If anyone is interested you can see his build thread at: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95239
Page #3 is where the orange anodize comes in!!
I can't say I'm interested in doing 10-20 rigs but if someone has a true build as opposed to just a couple of pcs they want anodized we can probably work something out. I work for beer! No really . . . beer! Either local brews from around you or $ for our local brews around here.