A newb with his first airbrush and some dumb questions.

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I recently got my first airbrush (badger anthem) and an assortment of wicked colors paint, mostly metallic. I have a large automotive type compressor and an external pressure regulator/water separator feeding the badger.

I spent most of yesterday afternoon practicing on empty plastic bottles and after some time of playing with pressure adjustments and the needle adjustment on the brush, I finally got brave enough to throw paint at a set of Capra body panels.

They dont look horrible but dont look great either. I applied several light coats but I guess not light enough as 2 of the 4 panels have runs. This brings me to my dumb questions.

How do I know how much reducer to use? I was at about 70/30 ish and it seems like its still too thick. I think.... After the fact, I read on reddit that a 50/50 mixture is a good starting point. Is this correct?

Also, can I lightly sand the runs and recoat the panels or should I just leave them?

I'm happy with the color but I read that I still need to apply a backer. What should I use so that the backing doesn't drastically change the shade of the color? Seems like using black would make the color darker and white lighter. Grey? I'm confused.

 

[Littlemotor]

Best thing you can do imo, is start watching YT videos.. Take what you learn from that (the fundamentals), and apply it to start practicing. ALL “Wicked Colors” paints are 100000% designed specifically to spray out of the bottle. Requirements can vary, but that was Createx’s intentions fwiw.. I don’t know shiit about your brush specifically, but for typical saturation, and even coats with both my .5, as well as my .35 brushes-I am anywhere between 28-44psi at all times.

This can absolutely vary from person to person, and brush to brush, but if you had the very same Iwata’s as me, and were outside of this range-I’d say you have some issues.

Second thing is that when shooting lexan, in the beginning EVERYONE sprays too heavy. Some people it takes 20 freakin times to unlearn that awful habit. If you have a run, then you are likely guilty. Or you could very well be over-reduced. Or not enough pressure. Or moving too slowly. Or too close to the work… This is where the fundamentals will help, so get to watching video’s, and learn them. THEN you can F-around, and practice without doing so blindly, and needing to spend time UNlearning more bad habits..

Also-on that same note; be careful listening to the YT “influencers”… Just like in RC, most of them are complete tools, will get you into trouble, and only care about views/don’t know shiit.. I had very solid results from watching every video Createx Colors Co. ever posted, MANY from a channel called “The Art Workshop”, and a part time RC painter named “Marc McGurren” (also his channel name).. Once you learn the fundamentals, you can begin applying them. At this point the most important thing you can (and should) do-is practice, or just plain start shooting. You will see pretty quickly what changes you need to make, and what you need to work on.. Nothing will box you in faster than just talllllllllllking about it, or ONLY watching videos… Seen that about a million times. I know of several guys (myself included) who don’t seem to struggle, and on minimal experience simply because we immediately got to work shooting, and not getting hung up on “this dude’s channel”, or “what that guy uses for reducer”, blah blah blah.. Tips and tricks are great, but if you never actually get behind the brush, how are you ever gonna get proficient.. Learn enough to shoot PROPERLY, then immediately start shooting.

Start there, stop reducing your paint. -if it’s too thick to spray at 40ish PSI, then you have a bottle that’s gonna need some help. Definitely do not try to achieve full saturation within 1-2 coats, although it is achievable without over shooting between 2-3 most times. I ALWAYS barely dust my stuff the first two coats. Then even coats until fully saturated. Then back it. You can back with any color you desire, but they will all have vastly different effects. Again-practice is your friend.

Hope this helps man.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I recently got my first airbrush (badger anthem) and an assortment of wicked colors paint, mostly metallic. I have a large automotive type compressor and an external pressure regulator/water separator feeding the badger.

I spent most of yesterday afternoon practicing on empty plastic bottles and after some time of playing with pressure adjustments and the needle adjustment on the brush, I finally got brave enough to throw paint at a set of Capra body panels.

They dont look horrible but dont look great either. I applied several light coats but I guess not light enough as 2 of the 4 panels have runs. This brings me to my dumb questions.

How do I know how much reducer to use? I was at about 70/30 ish and it seems like its still too thick. I think.... After the fact, I read on reddit that a 50/50 mixture is a good starting point. Is this correct?

Also, can I lightly sand the runs and recoat the panels or should I just leave them?

I'm happy with the color but I read that I still need to apply a backer. What should I use so that the backing doesn't drastically change the shade of the color? Seems like using black would make the color darker and white lighter. Grey? I'm confused.

I love the stupid noob questions you're asking! Ask as many as possible so I won't have to ask them all again when I get an airbrush too!

 

[WickedFog]

From what I have learned in the limited number of paintjobs I have done, the Createx/Wicked colors will spray right out of the bottle. But I don't like spraying at the pressure it requires to do so to get good atomization, as it fogs my room up. The more reducer you use, the lower your air pressure can be, the less fog you will have. It doesn't matter what reducer percentage you use, everybody adjusts this depending on what they are spraying. You just have to set your air pressure accordingly.

Like fine detail stuff, I have found more reducer than paint, so 70/30 reducer/paint, and anywhere from 10-18 psi will get me some pencil like lines. If I am spraying a base coat, I will run just a little reducer and be around 80/20 paint/reducer. I adjust my air pressure until it's spraying how I want, usually 35 psi or less. My reducer has about 2% retarder in it as well, so it keeps my paint from drying too fast, and helps me keep from having the tip drying on me as often.

As far as cleaning up and starting over - as long as the paint hasn't cured, which takes about 48 hours for acrylic, just some Windex will cut through it and allow you to wipe it off pretty easily. It takes letting it work it's way into the paint. If that isn't doing the trick isopropyl alcohol will take it off even faster. As the paint cures, the adhesion becomes stronger and the paint becomes more durable, and it will be harder to remove.

 

[Doom!]

I run my pressure between 30 and 35 psi for general coats, a little less for details. I know this probably isn't going to help but I keep my paint consistency about the same as whole milk.

As @WickedFog said, you can always remove acrylic paint with Windex if you don't wait to long. I also spray a cup of windex through my brush during cleanup.

 

[WickedFog]

I know this probably isn't going to help but I keep my paint consistency about the same as whole milk

I got a 4oz bottle of Createx opaque white recently from Spraygunner that was thicker than normal. It was like the consistency of honey. When pouring into the mixing cup it actually created a small hill. The previous order I got awhile back had one of the paints that was thick too. So I do the same thing. If it is like milk consistency, that's where it works for me.

 

[GeorgeB]

I recently got my first airbrush (badger anthem) and an assortment of wicked colors paint, mostly metallic. I have a large automotive type compressor and an external pressure regulator/water separator feeding the badger.

I spent most of yesterday afternoon practicing on empty plastic bottles and after some time of playing with pressure adjustments and the needle adjustment on the brush, I finally got brave enough to throw paint at a set of Capra body panels.

They dont look horrible but dont look great either. I applied several light coats but I guess not light enough as 2 of the 4 panels have runs. This brings me to my dumb questions.

How do I know how much reducer to use? I was at about 70/30 ish and it seems like its still too thick. I think.... After the fact, I read on reddit that a 50/50 mixture is a good starting point. Is this correct?

Also, can I lightly sand the runs and recoat the panels or should I just leave them?

I'm happy with the color but I read that I still need to apply a backer. What should I use so that the backing doesn't drastically change the shade of the color? Seems like using black would make the color darker and white lighter. Grey? I'm confused.

You add reducer to get a milk like consistency ! That's all that I've done for 45 years.

 

[RustyUs]

From what I have learned in the limited number of paintjobs I have done, the Createx/Wicked colors will spray right out of the bottle. But I don't like spraying at the pressure it requires to do so to get good atomization, as it fogs my room up. The more reducer you use, the lower your air pressure can be, the less fog you will have. It doesn't matter what reducer percentage you use, everybody adjusts this depending on what they are spraying. You just have to set your air pressure accordingly.

Like fine detail stuff, I have found more reducer than paint, so 70/30 reducer/paint, and anywhere from 10-18 psi will get me some pencil like lines. If I am spraying a base coat, I will run just a little reducer and be around 80/20 paint/reducer. I adjust my air pressure until it's spraying how I want, usually 35 psi or less. My reducer has about 2% retarder in it as well, so it keeps my paint from drying too fast, and helps me keep from having the tip drying on me as often.

As far as cleaning up and starting over - as long as the paint hasn't cured, which takes about 48 hours for acrylic, just some Windex will cut through it and allow you to wipe it off pretty easily. It takes letting it work it's way into the paint. If that isn't doing the trick isopropyl alcohol will take it off even faster. As the paint cures, the adhesion becomes stronger and the paint becomes more durable, and it will be harder to remove.

By "retarder" you mean glycerin? You were having paint collect at the nozzle tip/cap?

 

[WickedFog]

By "retarder" you mean glycerin? You were having paint collect at the nozzle tip/cap?

This is what I use - https://a.co/d/1CeUiNY
I just add a little bit to my reducer when I make it.

Yeah, the paint dries on the needle and tip shroud. Depending on how badly I am spraying

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I appreciate all the input. I've watched tons of videos but it seems like I get conflicting info from a lot of them. Like someone else mentioned, I think a lot of the videos are made to get views and not necessarily to educate. I guess like most situations, I'll just do it and learn the hard way, from my mistakes.

I've went through 5 or 6 bottles of paint, practicing on empty 2 liter bottles and milk jugs. After 4 or 5 hours yesterday of FA and FO I got comfortable enough to try another actual body and so far it looks pretty good. Got a few more layers to go today. Ill post pics when I finish up. I'm sure you guys could use the laugh.

 

[Doom!]

@Mrgoodwrench35 Practice is your best friend when learning any new skill.

 

[WickedFog]

This is what I use - https://a.co/d/1CeUiNY
I just add a little bit to my reducer when I make it.

Yeah, the paint dries on the needle and tip shroud. Depending on how badly I am spraying

One thing to watch out for that might be causing you trouble is letting off your air before you stop the paint flow. It's best to get used to keeping the air flowing. If you let off the air and you still have the trigger pulled back, you'll have a drop of paint on your tip that will spatter out as soon as you turn the air back on. It will also cause tip dry, which will eventually clog your nozzle.

Speaking of nozzle, which airbrush do you have?

You can remove the nozzle to clean it, but depending on your brush, you need to be VERY careful. The nozzles are very fragile. And if it's one of the tiny tips, like my Master and the Iwata Revolution has, you don't want to tighten them tight at all. Just screw them in very gently til you feel it stop. The threaded portion could be broken off by a hamster

These are what I use to clean the nozzle.
https://a.co/d/fD4ipCy

This stuff is also pretty good at disolving paint in your brush.
https://a.co/d/3xPiD0G

But if you clean it properly after each use, you'll never need this stuff

Another thing is check your nozzle cap for any air leaking by using some windex or dishsoap in water. If you have air leaking there, it will bubble, and it will affect your paint flow if you have a leak there.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I'm using a badger anthem syphon feed. After yesterday, the biggest problem I'm having is the paint in the tip drying between coats. I'm giving 15 to 20 min dry time between applications but it seems I have to clean out the tip after each time. Is that normal?

 

[WickedFog]

I'm using a badger anthem syphon feed. After yesterday, the biggest problem I'm having is the paint in the tip drying between coats. I'm giving 15 to 20 min dry time between applications but it seems I have to clean out the tip after each time. Is that normal?

It's normal for me that the tip dries in the middle of practicing non-stop for 20 minutes or so. I leave my tip protector off so I can wipe the paint off. But you can easily damage the tip that way. On a body, not so much during one coat. I suspect you're letting off the air, like painting with a rattle can. When you start a coat, never let off the air. Learn to pull back the trigger for each pass while keeping the air held down. Practicing dagger strokes will help with learning that. Getting away from painting like you're using a rattle can takes a little practice.
Watch this and notice how he never lets off the air.

 

[Chubaka]

I'm using a badger anthem syphon feed. After yesterday, the biggest problem I'm having is the paint in the tip drying between coats. I'm giving 15 to 20 min dry time between applications but it seems I have to clean out the tip after each time. Is that normal?

I usually shoot rubbing alcohol to prevent that.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I have successfully completed 3 bodies, and no runs or bad spots to speak of in the last 2. They are small bodies though, capra, losi nascar and a nascar truck body. I'm nervous about the next one. A mustang body for the infraction. I think I'm getting the hang of it though. Even did some detailing on the Capra. Now I'm finding all kinds of stuff to paint. I think I'm addicted. Thank you all for the tips and advice.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

Pretty simple paint schemes for now. I intend to challenge myself a bit on the next one with fading/blending the color change lines.

 

[Rocketzx1]

Best thing you can do imo, is start watching YT videos.. Take what you learn from that (the fundamentals), and apply it to start practicing. ALL “Wicked Colors” paints are 100000% designed specifically to spray out of the bottle. Requirements can vary, but that was Createx’s intentions fwiw.. I don’t know shiit about your brush specifically, but for typical saturation, and even coats with both my .5, as well as my .35 brushes-I am anywhere between 28-44psi at all times.

This can absolutely vary from person to person, and brush to brush, but if you had the very same Iwata’s as me, and were outside of this range-I’d say you have some issues.

Second thing is that when shooting lexan, in the beginning EVERYONE sprays too heavy. Some people it takes 20 freakin times to unlearn that awful habit. If you have a run, then you are likely guilty. Or you could very well be over-reduced. Or not enough pressure. Or moving too slowly. Or too close to the work… This is where the fundamentals will help, so get to watching video’s, and learn them. THEN you can F-around, and practice without doing so blindly, and needing to spend time UNlearning more bad habits..

Also-on that same note; be careful listening to the YT “influencers”… Just like in RC, most of them are complete tools, will get you into trouble, and only care about views/don’t know shiit.. I had very solid results from watching every video Createx Colors Co. ever posted, MANY from a channel called “The Art Workshop”, and a part time RC painter named “Marc McGurren” (also his channel name).. Once you learn the fundamentals, you can begin applying them. At this point the most important thing you can (and should) do-is practice, or just plain start shooting. You will see pretty quickly what changes you need to make, and what you need to work on.. Nothing will box you in faster than just talllllllllllking about it, or ONLY watching videos… Seen that about a million times. I know of several guys (myself included) who don’t seem to struggle, and on minimal experience simply because we immediately got to work shooting, and not getting hung up on “this dude’s channel”, or “what that guy uses for reducer”, blah blah blah.. Tips and tricks are great, but if you never actually get behind the brush, how are you ever gonna get proficient.. Learn enough to shoot PROPERLY, then immediately start shooting.

Start there, stop reducing your paint. -if it’s too thick to spray at 40ish PSI, then you have a bottle that’s gonna need some help. Definitely do not try to achieve full saturation within 1-2 coats, although it is achievable without over shooting between 2-3 most times. I ALWAYS barely dust my stuff the first two coats. Then even coats until fully saturated. Then back it. You can back with any color you desire, but they will all have vastly different effects. Again-practice is your friend.

Hope this helps man.

All of this is great info. I spray paint professionally for my job, and non of my experience/skills translated to airbrushing. I am myself just now getting the hang of airbrushing.

Such a different animal to tame lol

 

[BashingBrian]

I wanted to try airbrushing but have always shy'ed away from it due to the costs, I could go buy all the kit today and then be terrible at it I waste enough money on RC's in general without getting in to airbrushing (although I'd love to start)

 

[Doom!]

I wanted to try airbrushing but have always shy'ed away from it due to the costs, I could go buy all the kit today and then be terrible at it I waste enough money on RC's in general without getting in to airbrushing (although I'd love to start)

I'm sorry, but have you read what it says on your avatar?