Building RC car with Sons

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bri4jenn

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Hi. I am new to the forum. I build an RC car over 30 years ago. I am getting back into the hobby this time with my sons. I dusted off my old Team Associated 1/10 World Car and we built a RC dirt track in our backyard. Now they are hooked and want cars of their own. I need some help to sort through all the options.

Requirements/Preferences
!) we will only run on dirt tracks with few long straight sections
2) we don't plan to race officially so no stock motors/components limitation
3) would like an ESC that can operate the car in reverse
4) prefer the look of truggy or truck
5) prefer 1/10 scale
6) prefer electric
7) prefer a tight turning radius car

Questions
1) What does 3S, 4S, 5S etc mean?
2) What are some good brands of ESC's and motors
3) Are there limitations on ESC' motor pairing
4) what are the advantages of brushless
5) Does the ESC determine the maximum battery mAh
6) What determines the turning radius of the car
7) What brand of transmitters make the preferred short list
8) What brand of cars have the best suspensions and design
9) Any brands of cars, ESC, transmitters to avoid
 

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As for the rig itself its easier to just recommend some brands and you go look through what they offer, see what you like and then come back and get peoples opinions on it. Why to many rigs/kits out there. Id look at Losi, Associated, Tekno, Serpent, Xray, Mugen, Yokomo, Traxxas, OFNA, HoBoa, Hong Nor to start.

1) 3S refers to the number of cells a Lithium Polymer (LiPo) battery has. Each cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7V per cell so a 3S LiPo has 3 cells and has a combined nominal voltage of 11.1V. A 4S LiPo would have 4 cells and have a nominal voltage of 14.8V. The common sizes are 2S through 8S but you can get 1S and up to at least 12S packs but for ground kits you're typically gonna see 2S-8S.

2) Tekin, Castle, Reedy, and Maclan are some of the top dogs out there. Hobbywing is a budget brand thats fairly popular but these days a lot of their stuff aint much cheaper than Castle so Id personal recommend Castle over HW.

3) Yes but most of the times you can find combos so you know the combo packs will work together. Otherwise just make sure you look over the specs on the manufacturers website.

4) Way more power than brushed and last waaaay longer becasue theres no brushes to wear out.

5) The ESC and Motor will both have a rating of the maximum amount of lipo cells and/or maximum voltage they can handle. The specs might say "can handle up to 6S" or it might say "max 25V". The mAh rating on the batteries is only the capacity or "run time" of the battery. a 8000mAh lipo will have a longer run time than say a 5000mAh.

6)Theres a lot of things that can affect that. scale of the car, maximum angle the wheels can turn, and diff set up spring to mind.

7) For high quality radios look at Sanwa or Futaba. If you want a budget radio that works pretty well then look at the Flysky Gt3b.

8) Losi, Associated, Tekno, Serpent, Xray, Mugen, and Yokomo all make high end race quality kits. OFNA, HoBoa, and Hong Nor have some pretty decent quality kits for what you pay. Traxxas makes great bashers but not so much in terms of competitive race kits.

9) Redcat, Exceed, HSP, WLToys and anything sold on banggood, Aliexpress, or Amazon. Theres probably others I'm forgetting but avoid those like the plague.
 

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Hi. I am new to the forum. I build an RC car over 30 years ago. I am getting back into the hobby this time with my sons. I dusted off my old Team Associated 1/10 World Car and we built a RC dirt track in our backyard. Now they are hooked and want cars of their own. I need some help to sort through all the options.

Requirements/Preferences
!) we will only run on dirt tracks with few long straight sections
2) we don't plan to race officially so no stock motors/components limitation
3) would like an ESC that can operate the car in reverse
4) prefer the look of truggy or truck
5) prefer 1/10 scale
6) prefer electric
7) prefer a tight turning radius car

Questions
2) What are some good brands of ESC's and motors
8) What brand of cars have the best suspensions and design
9) Any brands of cars, ESC, transmitters to avoid
Since some of these have been answered fairly decently, i am only going to address the ones i kept, as well as add a couple. First question, how old are they? Second, does it have to be a kit? There are several companies that make very good RTR (ready to run) stuff( everyone from Arrma, to Associated, to Losi, to Tekno), and, the advantage to RTR is that it usually comes with a battery and charger, although a lot of the RTR chargers are very slow to charge, so that i would look at getting a better charger. Unlike back in the day, most RTR's are pretty decent out of the box, and may only need a quick going over just to check that screws are tight, and gear mesh is right. As for ESC's to avoid, i personally, since i only bash and dont race, and dont need high end stuff, i stick with Hobbywing WP-10BL60-RTR from Redcat Racing, and, for motors, i usually get mine on ebay from either GoolRC, or surpass Hobby. I have yet to burn up a HW ESC, and they run right around $45 on eBay, and maybe a bit more on Amazon, and motors are usually under $35. Castle typically is $30 or more higher than that. As for radios, i have been using the DumboRC 6CH, which comes with the receiver (you can get one with or without built in gyro) for $45 or less on eBay or Amazon, or, for a bit more, the FlySky GT series, which can be a bit complicated for beginners, since most of them are mutli vehicle radios (meaning you can program them for up to 10 separate vehicles, as long as each vehicle has a matching receiver. You can only run one vehicle at a time though) with a digital menu that takes a bit to get used to. Now, as for vehicles, i personally wouldnt rule out Redcat Racing. Some of there vehicles are a bit more complicated to work on, and quality can be hit or miss on some models, but, after owning several of their cheaper models, as well as literally beating on a few of their models, i actually like some of their stuff. I have videos on my youtube channel of me bashing a Redcat Blackout XTE at a BMX track, breaking a rear shock mount, and still beating on it more. The HSP based vehicles (Volcano, Tornado, Lightning) are easier to work on, but are also extremely hit or miss on quality, although there are a ton of parts, including aluminum upgrades, for the HSP based vehicles. One thing to know about them going in is that, unless they come with a HW ESC already, plan on that as well as the servo to fail. Another company to consider, although they are a bit limited in one way, is DHK Hobby. They are beyond durable (i have 9 DHK vehicles, and have only broke one running it at a concrete skate park, and another when a bearing failed), but, unless you want to spend a fortune, the best way to get them is used on eBay. Most of their vehicles are either 1/10TH scale or 1/8TH scale. The 1/8TH scale (Hunter, Maximus, Zombie) all share basically the same parts, and the 1/10TH scale Wolf-2/Razr-2 share basically the same parts, but, the Crosse is a hybrid of parts from both lines. The Hunter is listed as 1/10TH scale, like most short course trucks, but, true 1/10TH scale short course trucks are actually based on a 1/8TH scale chassis, so any vehicle you get, check the specs carefully, especially in the case of Redcat, since there vehicles tend to run a bit smaller than 1/10TH or 1/8TH stuff. As for the DHK stuff, the only downside if you will is parts. The only two places to get parts are either eBay or RCHobbyExplosion.com. RCE is pretty reasonable on parts and shipping, and pretty quick to ship, so, for me it isnt an issue.
 

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Hi. I am new to the forum. I build an RC car over 30 years ago. I am getting back into the hobby this time with my sons. I dusted off my old Team Associated 1/10 World Car and we built a RC dirt track in our backyard. Now they are hooked and want cars of their own. I need some help to sort through all the options.

Requirements/Preferences
!) we will only run on dirt tracks with few long straight sections
2) we don't plan to race officially so no stock motors/components limitation
3) would like an ESC that can operate the car in reverse
4) prefer the look of truggy or truck
5) prefer 1/10 scale
6) prefer electric
7) prefer a tight turning radius car

Questions
1) What does 3S, 4S, 5S etc mean?
2) What are some good brands of ESC's and motors
3) Are there limitations on ESC' motor pairing
4) what are the advantages of brushless
5) Does the ESC determine the maximum battery mAh
6) What determines the turning radius of the car
7) What brand of transmitters make the preferred short list
8) What brand of cars have the best suspensions and design
9) Any brands of cars, ESC, transmitters to avoid
Welcome. So now that's all out yhe way. I have some ?? How old are the kids. There's not to many build kits today.ike it was 30yrs ago. Alot are RTR ready to run. That come with everything needed. Pretty much all esc's are foward/reverse. Racers are the only ones that can run reverse.. since your getting back into the hobby. What's your budget? They make kit to build but your looking at high end professional racing kits 500+ just for car/truck then need everything as far with esc motors electronics batteries chargers. Can be looking at 1200-1500 a pc.. I would say look at the RTR kits. They are good kits for the most part. And they come with everything needed. As with RC, transmitter, batteries,charger. I would look at Traxxas slash, rustler, or a buggy the Bandit, Losi the RC10 6.2 line, Arrma Senton. Those are all truggies and short course truck. All running 3s. Good starters for younger kids.. then there's others you can look at if you want more power and speed.. all can be upgraded to your liking.. also there's Tamiya kits still around. If you go over the 3s mark. Then your going into the 1/8 to 1/6 scale which are alot bigger then your little backyard track would allow. Note the traxxas chargers and lipos are just a plug and charge. Or you will need a lipo charger that you will need to put in the info of your battery. That you want to charge. The lipos are a whole other game then the older battery's you used to use.like the Ni-cd, nimh

I would definitely stay away from anything off EBAY, AMAZON, BANDGOOD. ,OR ANY OTHER NONE NAME BRAND RC COMPANY. AND DEFINITELY NOT USED. Ther can be hidden problems that won't be told until you get it and say WTF..then your out hundreds to fix or get another RC.. also I would not suggest redcat, exceed ,WLtoy, HSP, or any off brand RC. As they are not that reliable I have two redcats bolt nitro that sit and collect dust. Because they suck...

I would stay to looking at the named brands Losi, associated, mugen, Tekin, kyosho, Arrma, traxxas. And sure there's more but not off top of head. 1/10 scale short course trucks , truggys, as they all have a good aftermarket parts supply..
Just keep in mind you get what you pay for. And if it's cheap there's probably a reason why it's cheap.. there tons of RCs out there today compared to 30yrs ago. When we were build Tamiya kits.

It's all personal preference. And how much $$ you want to spend. If you have any questions. Please don't hesitate to ask. Can pm me or others. And can go over thing more in detail. If you would like. I would start with looking at the RTR kits.. and then go from there bud. Happy RCing 👍👍👍👍
 

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I would definitely stay away from anything off EBAY, AMAZON, BANDGOOD. ,OR ANY OTHER NONE NAME BRAND RC COMPANY. AND DEFINITELY NOT USED. Ther can be hidden problems that won't be told until you get it and say WTF..then your out hundreds to fix or get another RC.. also I would not suggest redcat, exceed ,WLtoy, HSP, or any off brand RC. As they are not that reliable I have two redcats bolt nitro that sit and collect dust. Because they suck...
Its all personal opinion, but i do have to say this. Of the 14 vehicles i currently own, only 2 were bought new, the rest are all used from eBay or from FB marketplace, and not one of those vehicles have i ever put $100's into to make it useable. The trick is to look at the pics closely. The cleaner the vehicle, typically the better it has been taken care of. Also read the description very closely. I typically buy rollers/sliders and use my own electronics. Redcat nitro does suck, but their electric vehicles are fairly decent, and, after owning a total of 11 of their vehicles, as well as using HSP/Redcat chassis on several builds (i am currently using an HSP on-road chassis on a BMW touring car build), i stand by what i said about them. As for WLToys, i have never owned one, so i can't say anything about them, but, i have owned Exceed stuff (mainly drift cars) and the only issue i have found with them is parts availability. To the OP, if you do go used, before you buy, check for parts availability, and see if the manual is online and go through it first. Another way to buy used, but is getting less and less cheaper to do so, is to buy a new roller/slider, and then get the rest of the parts (wheels/tires, ESC, motor, servo, body) and set it up how you want, but that isnt as cheap as it used to be. For example, an ECX Torment/Ruckus roller/slider is currently $99 on eBay, and, in store, that same truck RTR is $149.99 (although RTR it only comes brushed) and buying a slider/roller, you can build it right off the bat brushless. I personally wouldnt use an ECX for a brushless build, whether used or RTR, because it gets pricey quick (it has a plastic diff, and the metal upgrade diff is between $30 and $35, then add a rubber shielded bearing kit, which i recommend on any vehicle, unless it is a higher end kit that already has them, and you can easily top the $200 mark no matter which route you go using one of them.. Been there, done that. You could easily spend almost as much to build a brushless ECX as a new RTR. Thats why i dont typically recommend them, since, even used, by the time you make it brushless capable, you could almost get a brushed RTR Arrma Senton/Granite. I know that isnt an apples to apples comparison, since the ECX is 2WD, and the Granite/Senton is 4WD, and hands down the Granite/Senton (although, with Arrma, its better to at least start with a BLX/3S than to buy a Mega and have to upgrade it later on with BLX parts anyway) is a way better vehicle. Whether it is an RTR or a kit, entirely depends on your budget, since kits from the better brands can easily hit the $500 or more mark by the time you buy the kit and add all the needed components. Even RTR's from companies like Arrma, Losi, Team Associated are over the $300 mark for the better vehicles.
 

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I was going to respond late last night but was pretty tired, Lord only knows what would have come out of my fingertips. :eek:
I will however add "my apologies if you guys have mentioned it already" but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you reading up on Lipo.
Lipo is also recommended.
 

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Its all personal opinion, but i do have to say this. Of the 14 vehicles i currently own, only 2 were bought new, the rest are all used from eBay or from FB marketplace, and not one of those vehicles have i ever put $100's into to make it useable. The trick is to look at the pics closely. The cleaner the vehicle, typically the better it has been taken care of. Also read the description very closely. I typically buy rollers/sliders and use my own electronics. Redcat nitro does suck, but their electric vehicles are fairly decent, and, after owning a total of 11 of their vehicles, as well as using HSP/Redcat chassis on several builds (i am currently using an HSP on-road chassis on a BMW touring car build), i stand by what i said about them. As for WLToys, i have never owned one, so i can't say anything about them, but, i have owned Exceed stuff (mainly drift cars) and the only issue i have found with them is parts availability. To the OP, if you do go used, before you buy, check for parts availability, and see if the manual is online and go through it first. Another way to buy used, but is getting less and less cheaper to do so, is to buy a new roller/slider, and then get the rest of the parts (wheels/tires, ESC, motor, servo, body) and set it up how you want, but that isnt as cheap as it used to be. For example, an ECX Torment/Ruckus roller/slider is currently $99 on eBay, and, in store, that same truck RTR is $149.99 (although RTR it only comes brushed) and buying a slider/roller, you can build it right off the bat brushless. I personally wouldnt use an ECX for a brushless build, whether used or RTR, because it gets pricey quick (it has a plastic diff, and the metal upgrade diff is between $30 and $35, then add a rubber shielded bearing kit, which i recommend on any vehicle, unless it is a higher end kit that already has them, and you can easily top the $200 mark no matter which route you go using one of them.. Been there, done that. You could easily spend almost as much to build a brushless ECX as a new RTR. Thats why i dont typically recommend them, since, even used, by the time you make it brushless capable, you could almost get a brushed RTR Arrma Senton/Granite. I know that isnt an apples to apples comparison, since the ECX is 2WD, and the Granite/Senton is 4WD, and hands down the Granite/Senton (although, with Arrma, its better to at least start with a BLX/3S than to buy a Mega and have to upgrade it later on with BLX parts anyway) is a way better vehicle. Whether it is an RTR or a kit, entirely depends on your budget, since kits from the better brands can easily hit the $500 or more mark by the time you buy the kit and add all the needed components. Even RTR's from companies like Arrma, Losi, Team Associated are over the $300 mark for the better vehicles.
Some of its personal opinion and some of it is not. Buying used while a lot of times works out just fine can be a nightmare for a new hobbyist or one comeback to the hobby after 30 years if they do get one that has hidden problems. That was my experience with the very first RC I ever bought. I bought a used Losi LST2 off of eBay that looked great and wasn't exactly cheap. The problem was right out of the gate I was burning up spur gears like every time I turned around. At first it was like once every time I went out and over the following weeks got to the point were it would literally burn one up every 5 minutes. For a new hobbyist that was a terrible experience for me. I got so frustrated that I literally threw the thing in to the quarry pit where I was bashing and drove off. Half way home I had a change of heart and went back and got it and decide to do a complete tear down on it to try and get to the bottom of the issue once and for all. Again as a new hobbyist doing a complete tear down was a daunting task, especially the transmission which is where the problem ended up being. Out of the 14 or so bearings in the tranny 4 of them were seized up and 2 of them did not spin freely. Once I replaced the bearings and lubed her back up she ran like a dream and I still own that kit to this day. However I almost gave up the hobby entirely because of that experience.

Now a days I buy used kits quite often because I generally know what to look for and I have the experience to tear a kit completely apart and rebuild it if I need to but I personally would never want someone to experience what i did with my first RC.

As for the Chinesium brands like Redcat, Exceed, HSP, WLToys, etc etc they are widely considered to be a crap shoot at best and complete junk at worst. Plus none of them have have any decent amount of (if any) after market support and that isnt an opinion.
 

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Its all personal opinion, but i do have to say this. Of the 14 vehicles i currently own, only 2 were bought new, the rest are all used from eBay or from FB marketplace, and not one of those vehicles have i ever put $100's into to make it useable. The trick is to look at the pics closely. The cleaner the vehicle, typically the better it has been taken care of. Also read the description very closely. I typically buy rollers/sliders and use my own electronics. Redcat nitro does suck, but their electric vehicles are fairly decent, and, after owning a total of 11 of their vehicles, as well as using HSP/Redcat chassis on several builds (i am currently using an HSP on-road chassis on a BMW touring car build), i stand by what i said about them. As for WLToys, i have never owned one, so i can't say anything about them, but, i have owned Exceed stuff (mainly drift cars) and the only issue i have found with them is parts availability. To the OP, if you do go used, before you buy, check for parts availability, and see if the manual is online and go through it first. Another way to buy used, but is getting less and less cheaper to do so, is to buy a new roller/slider, and then get the rest of the parts (wheels/tires, ESC, motor, servo, body) and set it up how you want, but that isnt as cheap as it used to be. For example, an ECX Torment/Ruckus roller/slider is currently $99 on eBay, and, in store, that same truck RTR is $149.99 (although RTR it only comes brushed) and buying a slider/roller, you can build it right off the bat brushless. I personally wouldnt use an ECX for a brushless build, whether used or RTR, because it gets pricey quick (it has a plastic diff, and the metal upgrade diff is between $30 and $35, then add a rubber shielded bearing kit, which i recommend on any vehicle, unless it is a higher end kit that already has them, and you can easily top the $200 mark no matter which route you go using one of them.. Been there, done that. You could easily spend almost as much to build a brushless ECX as a new RTR. Thats why i dont typically recommend them, since, even used, by the time you make it brushless capable, you could almost get a brushed RTR Arrma Senton/Granite. I know that isnt an apples to apples comparison, since the ECX is 2WD, and the Granite/Senton is 4WD, and hands down the Granite/Senton (although, with Arrma, its better to at least start with a BLX/3S than to buy a Mega and have to upgrade it later on with BLX parts anyway) is a way better vehicle. Whether it is an RTR or a kit, entirely depends on your budget, since kits from the better brands can easily hit the $500 or more mark by the time you buy the kit and add all the needed components. Even RTR's from companies like Arrma, Losi, Team Associated are over the $300 mark for the better vehicles.
Did you even read what the OP said. Its been 30yrs since last in hobby. I can clean a rc up till it looked new. Doesn't mean the tranns has gears in it bud. Or that the diffs aren't stripped out. Alot can be said about buying used. Relax.. l'm not trying to say if you know what your looking at and looking for not to use ebay. Or market place yeah you can get good deals time to time. But think about who's doing the looking. Not a seasoned vet in the hobby like your self or me. A roller would be a good way to good. But depending on what your looking for. You can spend alot more then a RTR. I've been building and running RCs since the 80s. So don't need examples I know what's out there and how it's done. I personally like building them from chassis up. The why I like, Like you said. Instead of haven to upgrade parts. That I know will break. Just get it out they way. I get that. But the OP hasn't been in hobby for 30yrs. And you and I both know the hobby has changed a lot. From back then. Especially with the lipos and brushed motors and the power that they produce. Shoot the OP really should read up on lipos. Because that's a whole new game. To what he is used too.. not trying to argue with you. But for a new guy basically you got to take that into consideration.. and especially not to buy a Chineseium brand then hes F-ed. That's all for a new guy basically there certain things that should be taken into consideration that's all. Not to just throw out a style. Plus he's looking 1/10 truggy or trucks. Nothing 4s or 6s.. looking for RCs for the Backyard track... not MT or 1/8 1/6 1/5. Just some to play around with his kids... so it's a better option to go with new RTR. Or he will end up spending alot of $$ per RC....
 

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Did you even read what the OP said. Its been 30yrs since last in hobby. I can clean a rc up till it looked new. Doesn't mean the tranns has gears in it bud. Or that the diffs aren't stripped out. Alot can be said about buying used. Relax.. l'm not trying to say if you know what your looking at and looking for not to use ebay. Or market place yeah you can get good deals time to time. But think about who's doing the looking. Not a seasoned vet in the hobby like your self or me. A roller would be a good way to good. But depending on what your looking for. You can spend alot more then a RTR. I've been building and running RCs since the 80s. So don't need examples I know what's out there and how it's done. I personally like building them from chassis up. The why I like, Like you said. Instead of haven to upgrade parts. That I know will break. Just get it out they way. I get that. But the OP hasn't been in hobby for 30yrs. And you and I both know the hobby has changed a lot. From back then. Especially with the lipos and brushed motors and the power that they produce. Shoot the OP really should read up on lipos. Because that's a whole new game. To what he is used too.. not trying to argue with you. But for a new guy basically you got to take that into consideration.. and especially not to buy a Chineseium brand then hes F-ed. That's all for a new guy basically there certain things that should be taken into consideration that's all. Not to just throw out a style. Plus he's looking 1/10 truggy or trucks. Nothing 4s or 6s.. looking for RCs for the Backyard track... not MT or 1/8 1/6 1/5. Just some to play around with his kids... so it's a better option to go with new RTR. Or he will end up spending alot of $$ per RC....
I read what the OP said, but, I'm also looking at it from several angles, one being, not everyone has, or is willing (like me. I wont personally spend $400-$500 on a new 1/10TH or 1/8TH anything. I can't justify spending, for example $370 on a new 3S Granite/Senton for me, let alone spending that much for a beginner that is of a young age, hence the Redcat recommendation, since that is what i get for every beginner in my family that is just starting out), to spend the money on a new, high end kit, so i was just trying to give options based on my experiences from the last 5 years. With what he originally posted, along with the comment about turning radius, about the only thing i would actually recommend is a buggy (Arrma Typhon, Kyosho Ultima, TLR 22), honestly, since SCT's (short course trucks) have a wide turning radius and MT's (monster trucks) tend to be top heavy and easily roll over in turns, but he asked specifically about trucks and truggies. As for how much the hobby has changed, its why i always recommend getting the manual and reading over it ahead of time, since most are easily available online, before even looking at purchasing, that way you are already familiar with it. Personal disclaimer: I will never recommend Traxxas to anyone, strictly for my own reasons.

As for the Lipo comments, i wholeheartedly agree. Until 3 or 4 years ago, i was strictly still using NIMH/NICD, and learning how to properly charge, store, and maintain Lipo's was a huge learning curve. I still only ever balance charge them, since I'm not comfortable fast charging them in my house, and i dont have anywhere else to charge them.

Edit: One of the common comments i see mentioned is upgrading. Not trying to start any arguments, but not everyone cares about having aftermarket, expensive upgrade parts. Every vehicle i have i use all stock, factory parts, so upgradeability isnt an issue for me. About the only "upgrade" i do are rubber shielded bearings, and brushless ESC and motor. The only time i do a diff upgrade is if it is necessary (such as with ECX). On my Vehicles, everything from the diff's, to all the plastic components, i only ever stick with stock.
 
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I read what the OP said, but, I'm also looking at it from several angles, one being, not everyone has, or is willing (like me. I wont personally spend $400-$500 on a new 1/10TH or 1/8TH anything. I can't justify spending, for example $370 on a new 3S Granite/Senton for me, let alone spending that much for a beginner that is of a young age, hence the Redcat recommendation, since that is what i get for every beginner in my family that is just starting out), to spend the money on a new, high end kit, so i was just trying to give options based on my experiences from the last 5 years. With what he originally posted, along with the comment about turning radius, about the only thing i would actually recommend is a buggy (Arrma Typhon, Kyosho Ultima, TLR 22), honestly, since SCT's (short course trucks) have a wide turning radius and MT's (monster trucks) tend to be top heavy and easily roll over in turns, but he asked specifically about trucks and truggies. As for how much the hobby has changed, its why i always recommend getting the manual and reading over it ahead of time, since most are easily available online, before even looking at purchasing, that way you are already familiar with it. Personal disclaimer: I will never recommend Traxxas to anyone, strictly for my own reasons.

As for the Lipo comments, i wholeheartedly agree. Until 3 or 4 years ago, i was strictly still using NIMH/NICD, and learning how to properly charge, store, and maintain Lipo's was a huge learning curve. I still only ever balance charge them, since I'm not comfortable fast charging them in my house, and i dont have anywhere else to charge them.
Yes agreed about finding what you want to get. And due some research on it. Should be the first thing. As you only know what your looking for..the lipos they are very sensitive compared to the nicd nimh of old. That's for sure. And it's always better to balance charge lipos no matter what. Then there's LVC. Temps there's alot to take into consideration. Along with charging them and storing the. Has far as Redcat goes. They are a brand new spin off. There design is from HSP.
With not really good parts support or aftermarket.. Traxxas is at the top for beginners. Especially with they ID charging and lipo systems. And parts galore along with aftermarket..Spectrum smart system has something similar. But the smart system is more for the Data logging chip in the battery.. and for the turning radius and haven the tightest or widest. That would have to go to buggies and 2wd. And the way you set up your turning radius. A MT won't have that much turning radius.. thats for sure. But each their own. If you want some redcat nitros. I got 2 running volcano stadium truck. And a tornado buggy both 4wd nitros. Plus two more same buggies as part cars..we can talk PM me..👍👍. And you just can't leave out a company because your personal reasons. That be like me saying don't look at arrma. Because I personally don't like them either.. But it's not up to us it's up to the original post gentlemen. And what he's looking for his backyard. Shoot we don't even know how big the track or back yard is either. Or age of kids. There's alot to involve in buying a RC. We can suggest let him look into them. And choose what he likes and wants...but either way he definitely has atlot of good choices to go with so. It's up to him now. But I would definitely read up on lipo batteries if asking what a 3s, 4s, 5s est. Mr. BRI4JENN Here's a article for you to read and get a better understanding of the lipo BATTERIES. And welcome to the RCT.

https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide
 

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Thanks everyone for your replies! The boys are 9 and 12. The 12 year old is more interested in it.

I am not opposed to ready to run kits. I will check those out with the name brands mentioned.

A quick battery charger would be great since they are impatient. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good one that shuts off when the batteries are full.

Does have the battery door on the bottom of the car save time when changing batteries. Some brands have that. Does that cause other issues with dirty getting in the body.

What is a HW ESC?

I understand about the 3S, 4S thing. I guess battery technology has come a long way. I am running a 6 cell nickel metal hydride 1800mAh battery pack and it only lasts about 10 minutes.

For budget, I think for my 12 year old I was thinking $850 or less and for my 9 year old about $700. These will be a combo birthday and Christmas present.

Can someone describe motor specs such as torque and rpm. For a short dirt track is higher torque better? or a compromise of the two.

What about 2 wheel drive vs 4 wheel drive? Is 4 wheel drive the way to go to avoid getting stuck on some branch or rock?
 
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Hw is a name brand short for Hobbywing.. the traxxas ID system is perfect for you. As all you have to due is plug them in. Theres no quick charging with lipos. Well to a extent..motor wise you can gear up or down anything a higher KV will be more RPM. The lower KV the more tourqe.. you can gear either one it's more what you want and how you course is. Look at the Traxxas trucks slash, rustler and others.
Your at a good price range so it's really up to you. Personally I would say look at Traxxas line. The ID charging systems. Doesn't need any thing just plug in battery and press start. Which would be good for both kids. The lipos need to be kept in a fire proof container. The lipos are nothing like the older batteries. And the batteries no longer go in the bottom of RCs. Either side compartments or on the chassis..there's alot to learn and understand about the lipos. They could be dangerous if not threat the rite way. Or cared for the rite way.
 
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biggman100

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And the batteries no longer go in the bottom of RCs.
Actually, some vehicles do have the bottom loading battery. Look at the Losi 22S for example. Most of them are older trucks that i would avoid though. The only current truck that is bottom loading is the 22S, at least, that i know of.
Thanks everyone for your replies! The boys are 9 and 12. The 12 year old is more interested in it.

I am not opposed to ready to run kits. I will check those out with the name brands mentioned.

A quick battery charger would be great since they are impatient. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good one that shuts off when the batteries are full.

Does have the battery door on the bottom of the car save time when changing batteries. Some brands have that. Does that cause other issues with dirty getting in the body.

What is a HW ESC?

I understand about the 3S, 4S thing. I guess battery technology has come a long way. I am running a 6 cell nickel metal hydride 1800mAh battery pack and it only lasts about 10 minutes.

For budget, I think for my 12 year old I was thinking $850 or less and for my 9 year old about $700. These will be a combo birthday and Christmas present.

Can someone describe motor specs such as torque and rpm. For a short dirt track is higher torque better? or a compromise of the two.

What about 2 wheel drive vs 4 wheel drive? Is 4 wheel drive the way to go to avoid getting stuck on some branch or rock?
At those ages, i would honestly look at RTR's, unless you want to do the building. From personal experience ( i belong to a local club, and we all work together with the kids that are interested), most kids that age, unless they like to tinker, arent really into taking the time to build a kit. If you are considering Traxxas at all, keep in mind, their electronics are proprietary, and wont work with non-Traxxas electronics. With the budget you stated, there are a lot of options, from lower end Redcat stuff all the way up to Tekno kits (keep in mind, most kits dont come with electronics). At that budget, my personal recommendations would be, in order, Team Associated Pro2 and Pro4, Losi Tenacity TT pro and DB pro, Arrma Senton, Typhon, and Kraton.

As for 2wd vs. 4wd, for beginners, 2WD is harder to get used to. On a 2WD, if you just slam the throttle, the truck will have a tendency to break the tires loose, and, if the surface is loose enough, or on concrete or asphalt, will just do donuts. 4WD is much easier to control, and much more forgiving when full throttle is applied.

As for battery chargers, unlike with NIMH/NICD, you can't just walk away from LIPO's and wait until the charger stops, since they can be very dangerous, and the last thing you want is a LIPO to catch on fire, or explode, and noone around to catch it in time. With that said, my only experience with chargers is the Imax B6, which will charge LIPO's from 2S to 8S, as well as NIMH batteries. It is pretty inexpensive, but will only charge one battery at a time. Typically though, a 2S or 3S take roughly an hour to balance charge ( i recommend LIPO's always be balance charged), and, have a LIPO battery tester on hand so you not only know the true battery voltage, but also individual cell voltage, and always make sure LIPO's are charged in a fire proof / fire safe bag.
 

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Here a list of what i would get

Tekno RC ET410.2 x2

Tekin RS Gen3 Sensored Brushless ESC/Gen4 Spec R Motor Combo (13.5T) x2 and Tekin Hotwire 2.0 USB Interface x1
(You could also go with a 10.5T combo)
OR
Castle Creations Copperhead 10 1/10 Sensored Combo w/1412 (3200Kv) (SCT Edition) x2 and Castle Link V3 USB Programmer x1
(You could laso go with the 3800kv combo)

For Radios Is get them the budget Flysky GT3b or GT3c x2 to start with then later on you can upgrade them to Sawna or Futaba radios as they need/want them. The GT3c is lighter than the b but uses proprietary Li-Ion batteries instead of AAs (which is why its lighter) but its also more expensive and has known issues with the steering wheels acting up. I use a GT3b for a lot of my bashing kits cuz its a solid radio for the money, has 10 model memory, can be modded to use liPos, and the receivers are cheap. The c is ok too though.

Thunder Power RC QUAD 4 X 100W AC/DC CHARGER (TP4X610HV) This will charge 4 batteries at a time since there will be 3 of ya wanting to run or the boys can do 2 packs each at the same time.

HOOVO 2S 7.4V 100C 5000mAh RC Shorty Lipo x? Id start off using these budget Hoovo LiPos since youll want several batteries up front and then if you're happy with great and if not you can look at higher end more expensive replacements as these need to be replaced eventually. Id probably get at least two for each one of ya.

Savox SC1201MG - Hi Torque Coreless Standard Digital Servo .12/347 @ 6v x2

Youll need some various other minor things like tools, shock oil, diff oil etc too. Also a fire proof container of some kind to charge the batteries in just in case one of them gets damaged or something. Its not likely but theres always a small possibility. I charge mine in an ammo can out in the garage on the concrete typically.

1) Does have the battery door on the bottom of the car save time when changing batteries. Some brands have that. Does that cause other issues with dirty getting in the body.

2) Can someone describe motor specs such as torque and rpm. For a short dirt track is higher torque better? or a compromise of the two.

3) What about 2 wheel drive vs 4 wheel drive? Is 4 wheel drive the way to go to avoid getting stuck on some branch or rock?
To answer your questions:

1) the vast majority of rigs/kits out there require you to take the body off to change the battery. Its easy and doesn't cause issues.

2) The lower the "KV" rating or the higher the "Turn" rating the more torque a motor has. RPMs are equal to the voltage times the kv rating. For example a 2400kv motor will have more torque and lower RPMs per volt than say a 4500kv motor. Likewise a 17.5T motor will have more torque and less RPMs per volt than say a 8.5T motor. For a short dirt track you'll want lower KV or higher Turn motors.

3) This is probably more personal preference than anything but I prefer 4WD for the most part but 2WD is fine too. For rough terrain Id say 4WD is better.

I dont know if your budget was just for the cars or for everything. If it was for everything then this is probably a little over your budget but this is what i would buy if I were in your shoes. The kits, ESCs, and motors are top of the line. The servo is a solid name brand with good specs. You can find faster and more powerful servos but you'll pay more for them. These are solid performers at a decent price. You may never feel the need to upgrade them but the option is there. The Charger is a known brand and while not the best thing out there its a solid quad charger and is cheaper than other quad chargers out there like the Venom. If you want to spend another $40-$50 bucks look at the Venom Quad AC/DC charger. The lipos as I stated before are budget brand but are good enough to get you started and you can upgrade them later as you need to replace them. The radios are budget but they are good radios for the money. I've had my GT3b for over at least a decade and I've done about every mod you can to it. Again later on as they get older and more experienced you can upgrade them to better radios.

Hope this helps.
 
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Most of them are older trucks
Ok so you take one line and say something. And what did I say before they no longer go in bottom.. like the older rcs the batteries no longer go in bottom.. wow unbelievable dude. Then u say the same thing. About it. Wow.ok you win dude your 5 yrs in the hobby is superior..you know all...👍👍👍
LIPO's are charged in a fire proof / fire safe bag.
A fire proof bag really a bag. Ok good luck with your bag.. hope your haven fun standing there and watching paint dry. I mean watching your lipos charge.. get a fireproof container or metal ammo box your better off then a bag. Or make one out of sheet metal. Or anything that seals. And use fireproof linner. They are dangerous and can cause alot of damage if used and charged improperly. Other then that your fine if you take care of them and maintain them properly. They are definitely not a nicd or nimh like before....there alot to consider when getting in the hobby again from yrs ago.. like said above. All the tools involved with building them now. It's a completely different game /hobby then 30yrs ago. Especially with kids useing the kits and chargers. That's why I didn't suggest a charger. For a new guy putting in all the info about the battery would be over welling. Traxxas it's just push a button. Like back in the day. Lipo batteries are on a whole other level. Alot don't even want to use them because of all the crap and dangers associated with them. Either way his got lots of options and alot of homework and research to do and break down to what he's looking for..... we can go back and forth all day.. but I won't.. the OP has enough info and opinions for one day.. 👍👍👍👍
 

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Hi. I am new to the forum. I build an RC car over 30 years ago. I am getting back into the hobby this time with my sons. I dusted off my old Team Associated 1/10 World Car and we built a RC dirt track in our backyard. Now they are hooked and want cars of their own. I need some help to sort through all the options.

Requirements/Preferences
!) we will only run on dirt tracks with few long straight sections
2) we don't plan to race officially so no stock motors/components limitation
3) would like an ESC that can operate the car in reverse
4) prefer the look of truggy or truck
5) prefer 1/10 scale
6) prefer electric
7) prefer a tight turning radius car

Questions
1) What does 3S, 4S, 5S etc mean?
2) What are some good brands of ESC's and motors
3) Are there limitations on ESC' motor pairing
4) what are the advantages of brushless
5) Does the ESC determine the maximum battery mAh
6) What determines the turning radius of the car
7) What brand of transmitters make the preferred short list
8) What brand of cars have the best suspensions and design
9) Any brands of cars, ESC, transmitters to avoid
As Kevin Talbot would say “ the mores S’s mean more power!”

I would say a buggy for sure. 3s would be a good one. I would say the Arrma typhoon 3s

It includes reverse
It’s a 1/10 scale
It’s electric
Has decent steering I would recommend the one though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0


You will also need a 25t Arrma servo saver. That’s about the only downside

It has a good transmitter and receiver
It’s all waterproof
An awesome brand a one that a lot of rc companies work with is Spectrumit comes all ready to got just put you own lipo in (which you will need to supply so go with spectrum smart battery’s and chargers)

The rig comes already with the controller binded to the receiver so no need to bind anything

It’s overall a great car and easy to find parts for. Most of your local hobby shops will have Arrma parts.

Here is a link tot the car
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx/4x4

Here is link to the 6s version of your looking for high speeds
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx

Here is the racing one. Pricy and you will have to build it and buy your own electronics.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/roller/tlr
 
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As Kevin Talbot would say “ the mores S’s mean more power!”

I would say a buggy for sure. 3s would be a good one. I would say the Arrma typhoon 3s

It includes reverse
It’s a 1/10 scale
It’s electric
Has decent steering I would recommend the one though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0


You will also need a 25t Arrma servo saver. That’s about the only downside

It has a good transmitter and receiver
It’s all waterproof
An awesome brand a one that a lot of rc companies work with is Spectrumit comes all ready to got just put you own lipo in (which you will need to supply so go with spectrum smart battery’s and chargers)

The rig comes already with the controller binded to the receiver so no need to bind anything

It’s overall a great car and easy to find parts for. Most of your local hobby shops will have Arrma parts.

Here is a link tot the car
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx/4x4

Here is link to the 6s version of your looking for high speeds
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/blx

Here is the racing one. Pricy and you will have to build it and buy your own electronics.
https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/latest/typhon/roller/tlr
Definitely doesn’t need to go by what Talbot says 🤣🤣 he's on his own level of crazy 🤣🤣🤣👍👍
The RC is for 9 and 12 yr old. And backyard track bud. And the spectrum batteries are definitely not what they need. He's not looking for data logging. And that's what the spectrum batteries are for. Not backyard fun with the boys..the Typhon 3s is a good RC but that's about it.. and just because it comes from factory doesn't mean you don't have to bind the controller.. all rtr kits should be binded just to be sure. I don't trust some little guy in a factory 100% to do his job. That's why you always go over the Rc no matter who makes it or where it comes from... 👍👍
Never had a problem with any of them
 

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