Bling-A-Thon (Project "Super"maxx)

[Rolex]

and then go get it dirty!!!!

PLEASE don't listen to him. He's obviously out of his tiny little mind.
Lessen, it's a beautiful piece of work. I can get you a connection for some really nice tinted tempered glass shelving units.

 

[stouty109]

anything is washable. How Much Did u drop on those titanium controll arms they r like $100 for 1 set. u must b rollin in the big bucks, and by the way awsome lookin truck lets c it dirty

 

[Lessen]

The suspension arms run $260 for the complete set, that includes Lunsford titanium hinge pins. No, I'm not rolling in the big bucks though, It took a couple months of saving to purchase those. Gonna be quite some time before it get's dirty though, I don't even have an engine for it yet. I'm still up in the air about what I want to put in it. I wanted to do an RB ST28 but that would require me to have a custom engine mount made. I also have intentions on a custom made rollcage but I need to save up for a MIG welder first. It's a work in process...

Got my aluminum RD Logic parts today as well. Oooooh, silver....

 

[stouty109]

looks better than any savy iv seen tmaxx for life. sick truck man

i got rpm arms in the front and the rpm trutrac system for the rear some day id love to get thoes

 

[Lessen]

My last wreck with this truck totally destroyed a set of RPM arms. For the money you can't beat 'em but if you want something that's simply not going to break these are the way to go from what I've seen/heard.

 

[stouty109]

I'm all for. It if i break a rpm it will sit untill i get me a set of thoes titanium arms

 

[Lessen]

project update...

Got a few custom items here. Thanks to Racer for these absolutely beautiful parts. Check out these blingin' polished outdrives and and absolutely gorgeous and one piece brake hex/outdrive. I've always had issues with the Crazy Nut Racing brake setup. It's a really strong brake system but the dual disks have always given me a bit of a headache with clearances. With a wider hex I can revert back to a standard (non-modified) brake piston and any binding issues should go away thanks again Randy!

 

[Suicide]

thanks for the ideas for my projact maxx already it has a titanium purple .21 chassis so I'm gonna go with a purple maxx why not and hopes to put a .50 in it and it aint gonna be a rolex

 

[Rolex]

Some REALLY serious bling on that thing.
I concede to you. I've been out blunged.

 

[Maxx]

very nice!!

I hope I never get that much money wrapped up in my maxx!!

 

[king quadder]

nothing like your guys, but I like it!

 

[stouty109]

thoes are some beefy lookin A-rms

 

[Lessen]

Yeah, those are beefiest looking arms I've ever seen I think. Wow!

I'm still up in the air about a powerplant though. I've decided not to go with anything that will require a custom engine mount so the RB ST28 is out. I know the ever popular OFNA/Picco P3 .28 will fit and I just noticed that Werks has an engine that will fit. I REALLY like the look of the Werks engine (natural colored block, black cooling head). It would look very much at home on this truck. Problem is, it's a truggy engine (the only truggy engine I've seen that fits my engine mount) so it's neither pullstart nor rotostart. I emailed Sullivan Products earlier today about the possibility of any of their Tigerdrive units fitting it. The Werks engine is not on their cross reference list. Hopefully somebody will get back to me with some good news because I really like the look of that Werks engine. It's 7 port so I imagine it'll wind out pretty well and it's not too much more expensive than the Picco.

 

[Racer 1966]

one piece brake hex/outdrive.

Wow, that looks great installed! If there's anything else I can do to help you out, let me know. :thumbup:

 

[stouty109]

What are thoes Washers Riveted to your arms front and back, Sway Bar? I coudl not see one in any of your pic tho

 

[Lessen]

Update!

Well, I've finally taken the plunge and purchased a drivetrain. I just ordered the RB ST28 mill. It comes with a black header and pipe but I'm not planning on using it simply because it won't really fit the look. There is so much bare aluminum it just seems silly to put a black exhaust on there, so I ordered a THS exhaust. (I think the same exhaust I used back when I had a twin engine Maxx). It was a great sounding pipe on a .26 and I'm sure it'll be awesome with this RB.

I pondered long and hard about how much power, realm of power, cost etc. and this just seemed like the way to go. I did a weight check today and much to my amazement this truck only weighs 9 lbs. as it sits right now so I figure a 7 or even 5 port engine wouldn't really be necessary. I also did a gear ratio calculation and found out it should hit 42 mph @ a mere 33,000 engine rpm so I could actually go with a smaller c/b than what I currently have (18t).

Needless to say I'm pretty excited to see this baby all put together.

What are thoes Washers Riveted to your arms front and back, Sway Bar? I coudl not see one in any of your pic tho

Yes, those are New Era sway bar mounts.

 

[Lessen]

Woo Hoo!

I got me some power today fellas! I've installed my Fioroni turboslide clutch, marked the flywheel for BDC and fitted the THS pipe. This thing looks great! I had purchased an AE header because I figured the THS header would put the pipe too far forward and interfere with the location of the radio box but it turns out the AE header can't clear the rear shock so I'll just have use the THS header and move the radio box. No big deal though. I'll put it in the stock T/B servo location since the T/B servo will be just ahead of the fuel tank. I just need to figure out a way to mount it.

One thing that surprised me though is that the engine did NOT come with the black header and pipe as I was told it would. I even emailed the retailer ahead of time to verify that the engine "came as pictured" and they told me yes. Well, it didn't. I mean I wasn't gonna use it anyways but had intended to sell it and make back a few bucks back.

anyways... I'll definately have to cut the engine mount and it looks like that'll work out fine. The roto start backplate is adjustable so I've got it lined up so I can get at it straight on right between the shock and the tower and I don't have to fiddle with any awkward angles.

Possible radio box placement

roto-start location

stock FLM engine mount

cut FLM engine mount

engine mounted

 

[Rolex]

It's becoming a thing of beauty. I can see I'll have to get with Racer1966 for that alloy transmission.

 

[Maxx]

wow thats one bad maxx! Wish I was making the dough like you.

 

[Lessen]

It's becoming a thing of beauty. I can see I'll have to get with Racer1966 for that alloy transmission.

I think he would be proud to make something for your truck. How much did you say your Savage weighs?.. Like 16 lbs? According to my oldschool bathroom scale this truck is 10 lbs. as it sits right now with the wheels on. I can't believe how light it is. These cast titanium arms are amazingly light (rpm weight).everything that is missing will probably be barely another 1.5 lbs total. Another servo, Rx, fuel tubing, fuel filter, center driveshafts and body. The kicker in additional weight will obviously be the steel tubed roll cage.

I'm planning on mounting it to the stock bumper mounts and I'm thinking of using a set of four shocks with super hard springs to act as additional cage mounts at the towers. My thought process is that the stock bumper mounts will act as absorbers for front/rear hits and also keep the cage aligned left/right. They will also absorb hits from the front/rear and upward direction (I'm planning to bring the cage down some so the pretty aluminum skid plates stay pretty and straight). However, hits from the the top don't really have an end point as the bumper mounts will allow too much movement in the downward direction so that's where the shocks come into play. The idea is that they will absorb energy and also limit the maximum movement of the cage toward the trucks components. I just havn't decided what type of shocks/springs yet. I'm thinking it'll be either something like a short 1/10 scale off-road shock like the .56 AE shocks or maybe even a TC3 shock/spring combo. The TC3 shocks are obviously smaller but I can get harder springs for them(as hard as 40 lbs that I've found in a quick search). The short RC10 shocks will allow more overall travel but the hardest spring I've found is 19.5 lbs, altough it is longer. My first guess though is that a much harder spring with less compression would be better for this job than a slightly longer spring that is significantly softer. I'm not 100% sure how exactly those on-road springs are rated though. My best guess is that it takes 40 lbs. to fully compress a 40 lb. spring ( not 40lb/in.) I would guess that those tc3 springs offer 1/2" of travel max. So four shocks.. that's 160 lbs. of force over a 1/2" distance. Not very much distance, but that is a lot of weight. I wonder how many G's that would hold up to on a 12 lb. truck? Any engineers in the house?