pug
RCTalk Addict
- Messages
- 1,190
- Reaction score
- 734
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Thread starter
- #21
Here’s the penny on the diff cover, if I can find a full copper penny (pre 1982), it will work much better since it’s denser than zinc.
Welcome to RCTalk
Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 90
- Reaction score
- 151
- Location
- Bozeman, MT
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Flying
- Boating
Seamuing MG90S. $20 for 6 of themThey're a tight fit, but you can make them fit with a little razor knife love. Might need to use longer screws, but once you start messing around with moving shocks, battery trays, etc, you'll notice that you have some extra screws
View attachment 139601
These little pink servos work great, too. I stole this one from @ABabyEater , so I don't remember what it is...
View attachment 139602
View attachment 139603
And I widened my front end to get it to drop over the servo better- helped lower my cg and improved uptravel
Focus on more uptravel. It'll keep you on your wheels in steeper terrain. I think the biggest challenge for these is how tippy they get.
All the free mods I've tried:
Lower your cg- you're already doing that
Add uptravel along with more articulation by mounting the shocks to the frame rails. But, don't go for too much, there's a practical limit. Anything more than about a full wheel height is counterproductive. That's why I don't run kinetics.
Get your front/rear bias around 60/40 front heavy- the battery relocate helps alot,
No springs in the front- they push you over on climbs. Keep the front end planted on full droop
Keep springs in the back- they help keep traction on steeps and give you a nudge getting over ledges. It's subtle, but worth it. Same rule applies to foams.
No foams in the front- make the front tires as grippy as possible. Until you get beadlocks, just poke a few evenly spaced holes in the front factory tires. Put the holes in the tread blocks. You're trying to soften the fronts so they conform to terrain better.
Dont be afraid of snipping off, or slicing the blocks across with a razor knife. I do that to my factory trx4 1/10 tires and it helps alot!
I still plan to slice the outer lugs like the center lugs in the above pic.
Bend your links with some heat for extra clearance
And don't over tighten your wheel nuts. The nylock doesn't last. I lost a few axle pins before learned that.
Once you've gotten the coda extended hexes (get them when you get front brass knuckles and front diff cover), you can tighten them with a dab of blue loctite. They stay on real good after that
Focus on more uptravel. It'll keep you on your wheels in steeper terrain. I think the biggest challenge for these is how tippy they get.
All the free mods I've tried:
Lower your cg- you're already doing that
Add uptravel along with more articulation by mounting the shocks to the frame rails. But, don't go for too much, there's a practical limit. Anything more than about a full wheel height is counterproductive. That's why I don't run kinetics.
Get your front/rear bias around 60/40 front heavy- the battery relocate helps alot,
No springs in the front- they push you over on climbs. Keep the front end planted on full droop
Keep springs in the back- they help keep traction on steeps and give you a nudge getting over ledges. It's subtle, but worth it. Same rule applies to foams.
No foams in the front- make the front tires as grippy as possible. Until you get beadlocks, just poke a few evenly spaced holes in the front factory tires. Put the holes in the tread blocks. You're trying to soften the fronts so they conform to terrain better.
Dont be afraid of snipping off, or slicing the blocks across with a razor knife. I do that to my factory trx4 1/10 tires and it helps alot!
I still plan to slice the outer lugs like the center lugs in the above pic.
Bend your links with some heat for extra clearance
And don't over tighten your wheel nuts. The nylock doesn't last. I lost a few axle pins before learned that.
Once you've gotten the coda extended hexes (get them when you get front brass knuckles and front diff cover), you can tighten them with a dab of blue loctite. They stay on real good after that
I didn't take it like that at all, Bro!
What you posted was funny!
Didn't realized then, but I'm grateful on the way I grew up. I am so, so appreciative of what I have today!
- Messages
- 9,256
- Reaction score
- 16,558
- Location
- Central California
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
^^ kinda why I'm such a manchild...
WickedFog
Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 14,934
- Reaction score
- 21,140
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
First thing I would do is upgrade the servo and motor. I grabbed this servo, and it is a direct fit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerhobby...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
For the motor, you can go brushless with the Furitek Komodo and grab their Lizard, or Lizard Pro esc. Or you can go with a PN Racing brushed motor, but you will want to grab their motor mount and gearset also as a combo for like $58. PN Racing stuff is sold at Kenon Hobby, and Furitek has a USA site.
The Deadbolt is nice because it has lots of room to play with bigger tires, but with 5mm spacers and Mudslingers I had to cut 1/8" out of the top of the front fenders and about 3/8" out of the rear of the front fenders. The rear fenders cleared fine. I printed some fender flares to glue on but they require a bit of file work to get the back of the flares to match the body profile.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerhobby...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
For the motor, you can go brushless with the Furitek Komodo and grab their Lizard, or Lizard Pro esc. Or you can go with a PN Racing brushed motor, but you will want to grab their motor mount and gearset also as a combo for like $58. PN Racing stuff is sold at Kenon Hobby, and Furitek has a USA site.
The Deadbolt is nice because it has lots of room to play with bigger tires, but with 5mm spacers and Mudslingers I had to cut 1/8" out of the top of the front fenders and about 3/8" out of the rear of the front fenders. The rear fenders cleared fine. I printed some fender flares to glue on but they require a bit of file work to get the back of the flares to match the body profile.
Furitek is a gateway drug. There's no coming back from that...
Do the brass mods first. Your factory motor/esc will burn up soon enough. Then you'll go furitek and your rig will turn into a beast.
Do the brass mods first. Your factory motor/esc will burn up soon enough. Then you'll go furitek and your rig will turn into a beast.
pug
RCTalk Addict
- Messages
- 1,190
- Reaction score
- 734
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
- Crawling
- Thread starter
- #30
I made sure that the wheels aren’t binding up, I tested it by seeing if I could move the wheel by blowing on it. I also watch the temps very carefully, I don’t like to risk ruining electronics. I might get a Furitek ESC and a Barrage motor or better alternative without going brushless.
Once you add some brass and beadlocks, you'll start doing harder lines, which will toast the little brushed motors. Barrages last about twice as long as stock motors, but they're nothing compared to an outrunner. Considering how cheap barrages are though, it might be worth grabbing one as a backup to your stock motor. For now.
Just remember, you'll have to drill new holes in your mount, and switch the motor wires (super easy to detach and re-solder at the motor).
If you go furitek, get a brushless outrunner with it. The surpass in Taco Truk hasn't shown a hint of weakness after about a year of hard use. And by "hard use", I mean abuse.
My first scx24 has gone through 2 stock motors and one barrage since I got it. I got it not long after they came out. It got used hard before Taco. Not so much after
I grabbed a willy's gasser model for the body, and just modded up magnet mounts. Trust me, I made every mistake on this truck. There weren't many "experts" on these trucks when they first came out, so I had to wing alot of it. It's been sweet to see how much aftermarket support grew around them ❤
I de-cased the esc and had it stuck to the rear spacer. It recently had a big tumble and kinda crunched itself. Then the magic smoke came out of both motor and esc. There's a furitek Tegu, and another surpass waiting to go in. I'm running the little gensacearespammers batts in it with my own take on the battery mod. It was dubbed "white magic" by a couple crawler buddies. It was pretty impressive before I built the TT.
And the gspeed carbon rails are incredible on this truck for $20 (and Taco). They didn't work on the yellow jeep at all though. That rig works better with the factory rails. I even tried the goblin rails on it, but it still likes the stock rails better.
Sorry for the ramble. I'm still sick, but finally coherent again, so you're stuck with me for now.
Just remember, you'll have to drill new holes in your mount, and switch the motor wires (super easy to detach and re-solder at the motor).
If you go furitek, get a brushless outrunner with it. The surpass in Taco Truk hasn't shown a hint of weakness after about a year of hard use. And by "hard use", I mean abuse.
My first scx24 has gone through 2 stock motors and one barrage since I got it. I got it not long after they came out. It got used hard before Taco. Not so much after
I grabbed a willy's gasser model for the body, and just modded up magnet mounts. Trust me, I made every mistake on this truck. There weren't many "experts" on these trucks when they first came out, so I had to wing alot of it. It's been sweet to see how much aftermarket support grew around them ❤
I de-cased the esc and had it stuck to the rear spacer. It recently had a big tumble and kinda crunched itself. Then the magic smoke came out of both motor and esc. There's a furitek Tegu, and another surpass waiting to go in. I'm running the little gensacearespammers batts in it with my own take on the battery mod. It was dubbed "white magic" by a couple crawler buddies. It was pretty impressive before I built the TT.
And the gspeed carbon rails are incredible on this truck for $20 (and Taco). They didn't work on the yellow jeep at all though. That rig works better with the factory rails. I even tried the goblin rails on it, but it still likes the stock rails better.
Sorry for the ramble. I'm still sick, but finally coherent again, so you're stuck with me for now.
- Messages
- 9,256
- Reaction score
- 16,558
- Location
- Central California
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
- Flying
You just keep on dribbling wisdom at us, one day will will be able to publish the ultimate scx24 guide also known as the mad ramblings of @Pat_ranch! 
^^You got THAT right...^^
@Pat_ranch @WickedFog
When you use the Furitek esc, the stock esc/receiver just essentially becomes a receiver, correct?
I was thinking going either Furitek Lizard or Tegu, and using a Flysky receiver instead so I can use my GT3 tx.
When you use the Furitek esc, the stock esc/receiver just essentially becomes a receiver, correct?
I was thinking going either Furitek Lizard or Tegu, and using a Flysky receiver instead so I can use my GT3 tx.
WickedFog
Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 14,934
- Reaction score
- 21,140
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
Correct. You can strip the case off the stock receiver/esc and get rid of a few things on it to decrease its footprint. There are some vids that have shown this. In Harley Design's budget build off series on the SCX24, he does a lot of mods to the stock receiver/esc.
I would buy the Powerhobby servos that Wicked posted as replacements for the stock servo. Those MG servos are garbage imo. I've not used the micro ones but I've used a couple different models from MG in the regular size servos and theyre literally some of the worst servos I've ever used.
WickedFog
Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 14,934
- Reaction score
- 21,140
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
The micro MG versions may be a bit better. I see them used a lot in the WPL builds.
I actually just want to get rid of the stock esc box all together.
WickedFog
Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 14,934
- Reaction score
- 21,140
- Location
- Terre Haute, IN
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Crawling
- Scale Builder
Yeah, you won't need it at all if you use your GT3. I just shared that cause you asked
Of my 4 SCX24s, I'm only planning to go brushless with the 2 Deadbolts. These will be my highly modified "comp crawlers". The Jeep and C10 will stay mostly stock and scaled.Yeah, you won't need it at all if you use your GT3. I just shared that cause you asked
My thoughts to improve on the performance of the 2 stock rigs is 2 relocate the battery more forward and down, and get rid of the plastic ESC casing, which should shed some top side weight. Then seal the stock esc circuit board with liquid rubber tape, and relocate it to the back to the battery tray.
Last edited:
