Redcat Ascent 18 $1.00 build!

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bozo

What, me worry?
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Location
St. Pete, FLA
RC Driving Style
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  2. Scale Builder
After doing a pair of AX24 builds, my wallet was screaming "No Mas! No Mas!" 💲 💲💲
Seeing all the good stuff on the new Ascent 18 I decided challenge myself to do a $1.00 limit build using only stock parts.
The $1 budget is for nuts, bolts, zip ties, double sticky tape, springs etc.- NO PURCHASED PARTS!
Ordered the Ascent on 3/8, got it on 3/12. Had a $5 discount so it was $104 delivered. Lots of reviews out there so I won't go into the details, just the stuff I did to make it better.
OOB it really runs good, just top heavy, average tires and poor weight distribution.
Here's what I did to address the weight distribution.
Removed the battery tray, cut the mounting tabs off the bottom and zip tied it to the front of the frame over the front axle.
Moved the front plate to the middle of the chassis and mounted the ESC to it. Took off the front bumper and trimmed the body fender flares.
Weight bias is now 57% front, 43% rear. The battery is pretty high, raising the CG but I figured the tradeoff was worth it.
The body needed to be raised about 3mm to clear the battery so I stuck a piece of velcro on the inside front that sticks to the battery strap. Also added a spacer on the back clip to make the body more or less level.
To lower the chassis I rebuilt the shocks with the pen spring mod. 1/2 of a spring in each shock, kept the factory springs on and filled with 30wt. Moved around the mounting positions. Dropped the truck about 3mm and reduced the flex, again I think worth the tradeoff.
Added a couple of 7g wheel weights to the chassis to get more tire grip, not sure about this so far...
Vented the tires with a soldering iron and roughed them up with some coarse sandpaper and doused them with simple green.
Because the tires are glued to the rims I couldn't add weight to the inside of the rims. If I can figure out how to get the tires off the rims without destroying either I'll probably do that.
In the meantime, one of my buddies who's an avid golfer is bringing over this weekend some golf lead tape 1/2" wide 2g per inch. Gonna try adding the tape to the inside and outside lips on the rims and maybe on the axles. We'll see...
So far I'm into it for less than $1, just a couple of dollar store pens, some velcro and zip ties.
Any suggestions on free/ less than $1 mods are welcome!
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While fooling around I found this neat trick... Wheelstands! I may put a couple of ball bearings on the rear bumper and see if I can really control it...

 
Looks like a fun truck. Nice a clean layout on the chassis and a classic older body. can't go wrong. Also love the bed cover. 🤣
 
Thanks for posting your findings, also found truck to be top heavy. I like the battery relocation….feel as though I want to trim the bottom of the body a little, but that’s just me 🤤
 
Put a cut in the large lugs along the outer tread section (in yellow) of the tires. Remove the section (in blue) of small tread to open the tire up. Honestly I would try just removing the section in blue first.
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Just the other day I successfully removed tires using a little denature alcohol along the glued bead and let it sit for a while, then went at it with a heat gun to dissolve the glue and remove the tire, damage free.
 
I don't have this rig, but looking at the pictures above: how about swapping the battery with the electronics?
 
I like the battery relocation
It works really well at getting to that magic 60/40 number. It does inclines way better but it doesn't side crawl as good as stock 'cuz the CG is now a lot higher 😿
I'm hoping that adding the golf club lead strips to the rims will offset the high battery. I'll try moving the battery to one of the side skids and the esc to the other and see how that compares. Just take 10 min. and a couple of tie wraps and easy to put back.
Also love the bed cover
I try to be discreet...:D

Put a cut in the large lugs along the outer tread section (in yellow) of the tires. Remove the section (in blue) of small tread to open the tire up. Honestly I would try just removing the section in blue first.
Definitely! Will try that after I test the weighted rims.

Just the other day I successfully removed tires
I think this will be an option.
 
It works really well at getting to that magic 60/40 number. It does inclines way better but it doesn't side crawl as good as stock 'cuz the CG is now a lot higher 😿
I'm hoping that adding the golf club lead strips to the rims will offset the high battery. I'll try moving the battery to one of the side skids and the esc to the other and see how that compares. Just take 10 min. and a couple of tie wraps and easy to put back.

I try to be discreet...:D


Definitely! Will try that after I test the weighted rims.


I think this will be an option.
I know you want cheap or free, but if you got some injora beadlocks, brass or aluminum and some tires to go with it…..best upgrade you could probably do.
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I just noticed it has a jst connection for the battery 👍🏻
 
I know you want cheap or free, but if you got some injora beadlocks, brass or aluminum and some tires to go with it…..best upgrade you could probably do.
Copy that, just want to see how good it can get with no $$$ invested. I've got a variety of other rim/tire combos on hand to try later.
Got the golf lead tape, was able to fit 9" into each rim, increasing the weight from 17g stock to 35g. Added some Molotow liquid chrome for some bling.
Here's my catpanion 'Lil Bit helping with the install... Calico cat doing Redcat!
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Put a cut in the large lugs along the outer tread section (in yellow) of the tires. Remove the section (in blue) of small tread to open the tire up. Honestly I would try just removing the section in blue first.
This will be the next step.

Added some bearings on the rear bumper and a piece of fuzzy velcro on the tailgate.
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Now wheelstands are epic! Got to figure out a way to steer it now.
 
Got a few more free mods done today this is really turning into a beast!
Per J'sCrawler's suggestion I cut the tire lugs. HUGE improvement in both grip and suppleness. Along with the heavier rims this did a lot to keep things planted.
While I had the wheels off I greased the diffs and portals with good 'ole Red 'n Tacky. All were dry from the factory.
Word on the tubes sez you can get an angled skid by using the extra holes in the chassis. While greasing up the gearbox I test fitted it that way, found out that the motor hits hard on the front upper links. That's a no-go, but I did move the skid to the lower set of holes. This dropped the motor/gearbox down about 2mm and also made the driveshaft angles less severe and flattened out the links.
After a lot of hard runs, the motor is still cool to the touch. To improve weight distribution I moved the esc to the top of the gearbox/motor assy. The double sticky should hold but I put a cable tie on just in case. BTW, hate the stupid power button.
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The next series of free mods will address the links and upper shock mounting points.
Lots of folk on the tubes are experiencing link breakage. One neat solution is to cut the links and then sleeve them with brass, SS or aluminium tubing. The link bodies are 3.65mm in diameter, so I'm in search of some tubing that will fit and not blow my $1 budget. The advantages of sleeving the links are more weight low and reinforcing a potential weak spot.
I'll cut some shock keys out of some scrap CF and use them to move the shocks more inward. That should lower the CG and give better spring rate action.
I gave the Redcat the ultimate test yesterday.
Took it to a two year old boy's birthday party and let the kids play with it 😲
Amazingly nothing broke and it performed admirably, even with lots of kicking and head on crashes. The body is getting a little rough but that's OK... shows genuine battle damage. The battery showed 37% after about an hour.
It did anger some parents, as their kids now all want one.. also some parents!
It is good to introduce RC to the newbies. Come to the dark side...🌑
 
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