Am I Wrong Thinking A Higher Amp ESC Will Solve My Issue?

[Grizz03]

FWIW: That is not true of Genuine Deans connectors.

What are they rated for? And got a link?
I didn't think that they were that great so I stayed away from using them.

 

[WickedFog]

What are they rated for? And got a link?
I didn't think that they were that great so I stayed away from using them.

61A

Grey's gonna hate me for that, but I am a Dean's hater so But yeah, the original Deans are a lot better than the Chinese ones. I went to look on Deans' website, but the website is not there anymore, unless there is a different one @Greywolf74
https://www.wsdeans.com/

 

[Greywolf74]

What are they rated for? And got a link?
I didn't think that they were that great so I stayed away from using them.

I have posted about this several times on this forum. The short short version is that Robin (The owner of WSDeans) wont disclose the exact specs on his plugs for liability reasons but has stated that the limit is much higher than 60A, especially for the new version 2 Deans Plugs. I've personally tested them in my Kraton 8S where the v2's performed fine and the cheap chinese clones did not. I've also tested them on my work bench and pulled about 88.5A continuous through one for the entire charge of a 5000mAh battery down to 3.2V. A lot of people these days in the hobby dont prefer them and thats fine. To each his own. I just get tired of hearing that same piece of misinformation spread around the internet, thats all.

61A

Grey's gonna hate me for that, but I am a Dean's hater so But yeah, the original Deans are a lot better than the Chinese ones. I went to look on Deans' website, but the website is not there anymore, unless there is a different one @Greywolf74
https://www.wsdeans.com/

As my wife likes to say "I'm GONNA BONK YOU!" LOL. Thats weird about the website. I hope something didnt happen to his company. Ill text him later today and ask him about it.

 

[Grizz03]

I have posted about this several times on this forum. The short short version is that Robin (The owner of WSDeans) wont disclose the exact specs on his plugs for liability reasons but has stated that the limit is much higher than 60A, especially for the new version 2 Deans Plugs. I've personally tested them in my Kraton 8S where the v2's performed fine and the cheap chinese clones did not. I've also tested them on my work bench and pulled about 88.5A continuous through one for the entire charge of a 5000mAh battery down to 3.2V. A lot of people these days in the hobby dont prefer them and thats fine. To each his own. I just get tired of hearing that same piece of misinformation spread around the internet, thats all.

I don't know anything about them especially those new ones. But it's kinda hard to stop what you call misinformation if the only specs you can find list them as 60amps. Without the manufacturer listing specs or stating something different anything else could be considered "hearsay." I have nothing against them. I just never used them because I didn't like how small and open tab design they are.

I only made my original comment because the OP melted battery wires. That would be an indication of a big amp draw/resistance to create that much heat.
We also don't know where the OP's Dean's connectors came from either.

 

[WickedFog]

I don't know anything about them especially those new ones. But it's kinda hard to stop what you call misinformation if the only specs you can find list them as 60amps. Without the manufacturer listing specs or stating something different anything else could be considered "hearsay." I have nothing against them. I just never used them because I didn't like how small and open tab design they are.

I only made my original comment because the OP melted battery wires. That would be an indication of a big amp draw/resistance to create that much heat.
We also don't know where the OP's Dean's connectors came from either.

What the OP is experiencing is very likely not a connector issue. There could have been a soldering issue generating a bunch of heat at the connector, but I have seen even the cheap Chinese Deans hold up to a fairly heavy load. The amp draw is only going to ramp up briefly on heavy loads to the system, like when initially triggering the throttle. Once the RC is moving, that load drops. So it's not going to be a constant load, even with steep gearing. And even a connector supposedly rated for 60A is going to easily handle brief spikes in amperage much higher than what it's rated for. The 60A rating is how much current the connector can withstand constantly. Not peak.

 

[Grizz03]

I'm not arguing that Deans or any other connector can't handle spikes in current. I understand how the amp draw is different at initial acceleration(peak) and cruising(constant). I've also seen Dean's connectors melt in a rustler. Everybody has a different experience. I'm not knocking them, if someone wants to use them then that is their preference. I personally don't use them because I don't like them.

Anytime there is heat in wires and melting something is definitely not right. Any connection point is where I would look at first, then go from there.

I can't correct what I don't know. What I don't understand is being told I'm spreading misinformation. I asked for the correct information and a Link or info from the manufacturer so I can help pass along the correct info. There is alot of misinformation on alot of different things that are out there. I try to correct it when I see it too. But, without proof disputing Google search (different websites stating 60amps) why am I accused of spreading false info?

 

[Greywolf74]

I don't know anything about them especially those new ones. But it's kinda hard to stop what you call misinformation if the only specs you can find list them as 60amps. Without the manufacturer listing specs or stating something different anything else could be considered "hearsay." I have nothing against them. I just never used them because I didn't like how small and open tab design they are.

I only made my original comment because the OP melted battery wires. That would be an indication of a big amp draw/resistance to create that much heat.
We also don't know where the OP's Dean's connectors came from either.

That statement wasn't aimed at you directly. I apologize if it came off that way. I'm aware that the Chinese clones have really tarnish the rep of the originals. Just trying to educate people.

@WickedFog
I texted Robin and he said the website is only down temporarily. They switched to a different web host and they are having a new website made.

 

[bigbristv]

That statement wasn't aimed at you directly. I'm aware that the Chinese clones have really tarnish the rep of the originals. Just trying to educate people.

@WickedFog
I texted Robin and he said the website is only down temporarily. They switched to a different web host and they are having a new website made.

M glad this was mentioned, had me looking into connectors and their resistance levels. Coupled with someone stating xt60 connectors are useless had me thinking.

How do you rate the most common connector types and why?

 

[Greywolf74]

M glad this was mentioned, had me looking into connectors and their resistance levels. Coupled with someone stating xt60 connectors are useless had me thinking.

How do you rate the most common connector types and why?

If you're going to use a connector like an xt60 then I would suggest using either them or EC connectors. I would use whichever one has the biggest bullet connectors because it will theoretically handle more current. For example if you compare xt90s and EC5s the EC5s have .5mm bigger bullets. I would also suggest if you buy either one of those type of connectors I'd suggest getting AMASS brand. The type of connector you use doesn't really matter as long as it's appropriately sized for the application you're using it for.

 

[ahr43]

Generally, try to shy away from anything referring to "T-connectors" which are for the most part cheap clones and/or copies of a genuine 'Dean's' connector. Will not even consider anything but a NIP Deans's for the applications I do runs Dean's on. There are a couple of T-connectors on my charging apparatus that by feel are definitely inferior to a genuine Dean's. Yeah, they fit up to a Dean's - sort of. Current carrying capability is of minimal consideration so for now leave them in place.

Regarding XT60s. Have a few in my basher stash and have used them with no problems before. In fact, handling wise, prefer them to a Dean's. Am now even looking at using XT60s for my brush motor two-wire connections over 4mm individual plugs. As far as an XT60 being useless, yeah, suppose so if the user was trying to put 4s-8s power through one. Gotta consider the application and stay within design limits for the application at hand.

'AC'

 

[bigbristv]

Generally, try to shy away from anything referring to "T-connectors" which are for the most part cheap clones and/or copies of a genuine 'Dean's' connector. Will not even consider anything but a NIP Deans's for the applications I do runs Dean's on. There are a couple of T-connectors on my charging apparatus that by feel are definitely inferior to a genuine Dean's. Yeah, they fit up to a Dean's - sort of. Current carrying capability is of minimal consideration so for now leave them in place.

Regarding XT60s. Have a few in my basher stash and have used them with no problems before. In fact, handling wise, prefer them to a Dean's. Am now even looking at using XT60s for my brush motor two-wire connections over 4mm individual plugs. As far as an XT60 being useless, yeah, suppose so if the user was trying to put 4s-8s power through one. Gotta consider the application and stay within design limits for the application at hand.

'AC'

This is helpful, thanks. I asked because the new setup I'm waiting on ships with xc60 and my current batteries have t plugs which I will now stop calling "Deans".

It was a toss up between buying an adapter or buying and soldering xc60s on my 3s batteries which for now are dedicated to the Senton.

If you're going to use a connector like an xt60 then I would suggest using either them or EC connectors. I would use whichever one has the biggest bullet connectors because it will theoretically handle more current. For example if you compare xt90s and EC5s the EC5s have .5mm bigger bullets. I would also suggest if you buy either one of those type of connectors I'd suggest getting AMASS brand. The type of connector you use doesn't really matter as long as it's appropriately sized for the application you're using it for.

Thanks for the quick response. This is very helpful.

 

[Greywolf74]

Generally, try to shy away from anything referring to "T-connectors" which are for the most part cheap clones and/or copies of a genuine 'Dean's' connector. Will not even consider anything but a NIP Deans's for the applications I do runs Dean's on. There are a couple of T-connectors on my charging apparatus that by feel are definitely inferior to a genuine Dean's. Yeah, they fit up to a Dean's - sort of. Current carrying capability is of minimal consideration so for now leave them in place.

Regarding XT60s. Have a few in my basher stash and have used them with no problems before. In fact, handling wise, prefer them to a Dean's. Am now even looking at using XT60s for my brush motor two-wire connections over 4mm individual plugs. As far as an XT60 being useless, yeah, suppose so if the user was trying to put 4s-8s power through one. Gotta consider the application and stay within design limits for the application at hand.

'AC'

Just to tack on yo what your saying about the Dean's connectors, the originals are made with a special mix of metal to make the most conductive surface possible. Also the housings of the version 2s are now made of higher temp materials than the old red version 1s. That's why the genuine Dean's cost so much more than the Chinesium ones.

Holy crap, I sound like a commercial

 

[Grizz03]

I agree that the imitation connectors have ruined the actual connectors of any brand, not just Dean's.

If using an adapter make sure the contacts are tight and it's a quality one. Using cheap adapters in my opinion are useless, only going to have issues sooner or later.
Having solid connections will help solve strange electrical issues one might have.

 

[bigbristv]

I agree that the imitation connectors have ruined the actual connectors of any brand, not just Dean's.

If using an adapter make sure the contacts are tight and it's a quality one. Using cheap adapters in my opinion are useless, only going to have issues sooner or later.
Having solid connections will help solve strange electrical issues one might have.

Yup, I just switched my order to ones that at least look better and was double the price thinking about this.

When I first got the Senton and needed adapters the ones I got were crappy.

 

[bigbristv]

So, the Hobbywing system came in and was installed including the stock BLX motor mount and motor fan and heatsink set I got from jennys. Was on the fence as to whether or not to go with the stock size 20t pinion since I had trouble with it using other systems and have a set ranging from 17t to 21t.

Wow! This setup is amazing so far. Wheelies on demand, seems faster especially off the line with the punch set to 9.

Cogging is all but gone and I think can be solved if using a larger pinion by adjusting timing.

I only got to run 1 pack thru it latest night in the freezing cold but plan on going out today armed with my heat gun to see where temps would be.

Loving this setup so far! Here's what I'm running:
Quicrun 10BL120 WP 120a esc/3660 3700kv sensorless combo, programmed with separate card.

Stock Arrma BLX components added (to the MEGA platform): metal 14mm Hexes, adjustable tie rods/turnbuckle set, center shaft bearing, aluminum motor mount, .8 mod slipper set & 20t pinion.

Stuff I added: led lights, front bumper mount support, wheels and tires for the street, roof rails & inner brace.

This thing is a beast and I'm not really even lusting after the Mojave anymore at this point. Might look into adding sway bars and some kind of rear body support to the Senton, tho.

 

[ahr43]

Encouraging to read you are pleased with your power unit install. 2s or 3s battery power?

Pretty much the upgrade power package I have waiting in the wings for install in my Senton 2WD. It will run 2s DragSpec or 3s SpeedSpec in final forms. Install will test with the present 85A ESC. Anticipating having to migrate to the 120A ESC as you did.

Post up pix when get the chance, or maybe one of your classic bigbristv vids. 'AC'

 

[Nitroman7888##]

I have a Senton Mega converted to a BLX and first went with a 3650 3900kv motor with a 60a esc combo which I still have but later put in a road car.

So I went up to a 3660 4200kv motor with an 80a esc.

I was having very little to no issues with the first combo but I couldn't wheelie or hit 50mph.

The second combo stripped the mega pinion and rear diff so I switched up to the BLX setup for those items which changed gearing.

So now I was having more frequent thermal limp mode sessions so I decided to get a 120a esc. Burned it up, like desoldered batt connectors, purple smoke and all.

Replaced it with the same esc and I'm thinking it's going thermal (blinking light) but it hasn't measured over 100 degrees after a run and while blinking.

This led me to look at the mfg stated parameters for their escs and found between the 60a, 80a, 120a, 150a, each one recommends less than 4000kv, 3000kv, 2000kv etc. respectively.

I have a 3500kv motor coming tomorrow and was going to order a different brand 120a esc but should I just stick with the 60a? The recommended kv is around 3500-4000 for that one.

Sorry for the long read but I just want to run on 3s (5200mah 80c) and be able to wheelie on demand and run hard without having to keep waiting for the thermal shutdown to subside.

What do I do?

OK let me stop yet. Your problem is you’re going down an amps on your speaker control that 3990 KV motor is the same one that comes on the vendetta as well and it can handle the 130 amp speed control. I’m pushing almost 100 still running 3S just so you know so what you need to do is free up the binding issues going on in your drivetrain find a good gear because if you go down in kilovolts, you need to go up in gearing and vice versa a 3900. KV is almost perfect for the vendetta the sentence I don’t know it’s probably heavier you might want to go up a little higher in Kyla, volts cause you get more torque, RPMs and power and then you can gear it to suit your needs , so you can run 100 amp 120 or 130 or 150 that’s strictly 6s…I have a 130a Spektrum for mine, stock 3900kv, ceramic bearings in motor, around entire car and freed up the binding diffs and yikes, this car struggled to hit 55 when I got it, now it’s closing on 100 on 3s

OK let me stop yet. Your problem is you’re going down an amps on your speaker control that 3990 KV motor is the same one that comes on the vendetta as well and it can handle the 130 amp speed control. I’m pushing almost 100 still running 3S just so you know so what you need to do is free up the binding issues going on in your drivetrain find a good gear because if you go down in kilovolts, you need to go up in gearing and vice versa a 3900. KV is almost perfect for the vendetta the sentence I don’t know it’s probably heavier you might want to go up a little higher in Kyla, volts cause you get more torque, RPMs and power and then you can gear it to suit your needs , so you can run 100 amp 120 or 130 or 150 that’s strictly 6s…I have a 130a Spektrum for mine, stock 3900kv, ceramic bearings in motor, around entire car and freed up the binding diffs and yikes, this car struggled to hit 55 when I got it, now it’s closing on 100 on 3s

Put your truck up on a stand and get all four wheels off the ground turn one wheel pick one. If the other three don’t spin with it you have insane binding and you need to open it up and get rid of it. There’s videos all over YouTube and if not, I can tell you how to do it and show you my car is no longer allowed it’s quiet it doesn’t overheat. It doesn’t lock out in thermal mode I get more than five passes on one battery and yeah actually goes over the advertise speed. It sounds like you’re getting a little bit of binding and being held back your gear mesh might be too tight. Also there’s a lot of shakes that could be making this happen , I don’t know what you set your punch on the speed runners set them on one, so you can control your takeoff. Make sure your clock rotation is in the correct direction and your timing is not been adjusted in advertently. And that the rest of the speed control is set for that particular model that $30 spectrum programmer box is worth every penny by the way.

 

[bigbristv]

Encouraging to read you are pleased with your power unit install. 2s or 3s battery power?

Pretty much the upgrade power package I have waiting in the wings for install in my Senton 2WD. It will run 2s DragSpec or 3s SpeedSpec in final forms. Install will test with the present 85A ESC. Anticipating having to migrate to the 120A ESC as you did.

Post up pix when get the chance, or maybe one of your classic bigbristv vids. 'AC'

Thanks man, was thinking of doing a vid but that's taking a backseat to me trying to have fun with this thing.

Funny, I thought of one of your posts when writing my update as I'm currently running 3s exclusively on the Senton but the esc can handle 4s, not sure if the Senton can

So far the only thing I've noticed with the HW 120a esc is I got the LVC but I think that was due to me turning up the value when I was programming it. Stays super cool and temps never got over 90F, motor even cooler.

OK let me stop yet. Your problem is you’re going down an amps on your speaker control that 3990 KV motor is the same one that comes on the vendetta as well and it can handle the 130 amp speed control. I’m pushing almost 100 still running 3S just so you know so what you need to do is free up the binding issues going on in your drivetrain find a good gear because if you go down in kilovolts, you need to go up in gearing and vice versa a 3900. KV is almost perfect for the vendetta the sentence I don’t know it’s probably heavier you might want to go up a little higher in Kyla, volts cause you get more torque, RPMs and power and then you can gear it to suit your needs , so you can run 100 amp 120 or 130 or 150 that’s strictly 6s…I have a 130a Spektrum for mine, stock 3900kv, ceramic bearings in motor, around entire car and freed up the binding diffs and yikes, this car struggled to hit 55 when I got it, now it’s closing on 100 on 3s

Put your truck up on a stand and get all four wheels off the ground turn one wheel pick one. If the other three don’t spin with it you have insane binding and you need to open it up and get rid of it. There’s videos all over YouTube and if not, I can tell you how to do it and show you my car is no longer allowed it’s quiet it doesn’t overheat. It doesn’t lock out in thermal mode I get more than five passes on one battery and yeah actually goes over the advertise speed. It sounds like you’re getting a little bit of binding and being held back your gear mesh might be too tight. Also there’s a lot of shakes that could be making this happen , I don’t know what you set your punch on the speed runners set them on one, so you can control your takeoff. Make sure your clock rotation is in the correct direction and your timing is not been adjusted in advertently. And that the rest of the speed control is set for that particular model that $30 spectrum programmer box is worth every penny by the way.

Thanks bro, no binding in my system whatsoever. I make sure my rigs clean and greased/oiled up. To your point, tho, when I rebuilt the rear diff I went with some Proline gear grease in lieu of the diff oil and now I have a LSD, and speaking of LSD...

 

[bigbristv]

 

[Nitroman7888##]

Thanks man, was thinking of doing a vid but that's taking a backseat to me trying to have fun with this thing.

Funny, I thought of one of your posts when writing my update as I'm currently running 3s exclusively on the Senton but the esc can handle 4s, not sure if the Senton can

So far the only thing I've noticed with the HW 120a esc is I got the LVC but I think that was due to me turning up the value when I was programming it. Stays super cool and temps never got over 90F, motor even cooler.

Thanks bro, no binding in my system whatsoever. I make sure my rigs clean and greased/oiled up. To your point, tho, when I rebuilt the rear diff I went with some Proline gear grease in lieu of the diff oil and now I have a LSD, and speaking of LSD...

Yeah you don’t want grease in the back bro I don’t care what horizon hobby recommends I use 500 K in the front 500 K in the rear. I keep my stability control, or my Gyro on my radio link turned down the most importantly, if you’re doing speed runs, turn your punch setting all the way down That’s what makes you get squiggly lol and put that thing up on the stand and try spending the wheels turn one wheel. If all four spin then you’re good. If not, you’re not good. Trust me I’m almost closing on 100 right now. Still running a 5000 mill amp 3S pack it’s ridiculous .