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YZ 2 Gearing, where should I start?

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Id start with like 20T on the pinion and you can go up if you need more speed and if it isn't overheating. 80T spur gear on a race buggy seems a bit odd. Usually it's around 72-78 from my experience so that's why I say a lower pinion for now. I run 28/78 on my 22 5.0 losi with a 17.5. Stays cool for days. Mostly racing on big open tracks.
 
You can still do it that way but I usually don't use paper. I just set my gear mesh manually. Just to the right spot where it's not too loose, not too tight and where just a smidge of play between the gears.
Did you know smidgen is a real unit of measure?! 😎 👍

https://www.accuracyproject.org/pinchdash.html
You're doing it wrong! 🙄🤣

J/K!!! I set my mesh by hand, sight, feel... same way.
 
Another newb question, is gear lashing done with the notebook paper method, like Traxxas? Just don't want to grind this flywheel, only one I have in stock at the moment
Notebook paper is probably too thick for 48P gears. I used to use thinner receipt paper for initial mesh setting on 48P gears. Nowadays, just go by feel. The following video shows a 4wd buggy center diff, but still a great "do it by feel" method for checking high spots on all RCs...

 
I will be running this model with the radio receiver out in the open, no waterproof box. What should I do to protect the empty receiver sockets? I was thinking : 1. Electrical tape (not a great idea), 2. Use empty futaba plugs but seal the up ends with RTV sealant, 3. Smear a pool of dielectric grease into each cavity.
Any other suggestions? I don't have room to use a water proof container. The receiver is a traxxas tqi part # 6533
 
Another newb question, is gear lashing done with the notebook paper method, like Traxxas? Just don't want to grind this flywheel, only one I have in stock at the moment
Depending on the pitch/mod of the gearing, I set my mesh by eye. For 48p and smaller gearing, you just want the tinyest bit of play, which is less than a sheet of notebook paper. Smaller pitch = less play. If you wiggle the spur and see the tinyest bit of play beteeen the gears, you'll be good. For 32p (equivalent to mod .8) and bigger, like mod 1.0, mod 1.5, etc, you want that gap just a little bit bigger. Notebook paper is ok for 32p or mod .8, so to get your eye calibrated, use paper and set it pretty tight against the paper. Then remove the paper and rock the spur gear while paying very close attention to where the gears mesh. You should see the spur moving just a tiny bit while the pinion stays stationary.

And always rotate the gears a few revolutions and check for tight or loose mesh. The runnout of either the spur or the pinion could cause problems.
 
It's probably almost time to post a picture of this warlock. Already, it is sitting lower than I think it should, meaning that I must be using a bigger motor and battery than what was intended. I have heard that starting suspension settings are hard to come by for this model. If I had set it up, I would have indexed a mark every quarter turn of the coil over adjustment nuts. I will probably do that, after I slip some clip on spring adjusters to record the heights first.
 
I'm still on this receiver box issue. It might end up being the condom,but I keep thinking, what if I heat shrink small tubing over the individual unused pins? Then slime the used pins with dielectric schmootz. I m using channel 1 for the steering and headlights, and Channel 2 for the ESC and tail light. I hadn't planned on any other circuits for channels 3,4,and 5. If only there were some kind of jelly you could squirt in that would coagulate, but be able to be pulled out with a tweezers as a whole blob.
Maybe the question I should ask is "What is the risk if the receive box does get flooded with water?""What's the worst that could happen"? "Does it stop working until it dries out, or will it short out and die?". "Is the ESC at risk?"
 
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