With an $800 budget , what would you get?

[KnowAir]

Their “70’s & 80’s” 1/10 stuff cannot be compared to anything else imho… Yeah-lots of us were introduced to the surface RC hobby with them, but it takes a LOT to compete against the big boys like Yokomo, Associated, Schumacher, etc.. I know, I know, “but Joel Johnson bro!”… That dude was a LEGEND, and the level of Jammin Jay Halsey, or Masami Hirosaka, and that Ultima was NOT your dad’s Ultima lol… I mean the majority of the 1/10 stuff they made with the awesome box art, etc.. The stuff that clearly looked like it came from the 70’s, and 80’s…well because it DID lol… And hellyes it’s fragile compared to an RC10, JRX2, or YZ10… But in case anyone has bumped their head, or forgotten-those cars were pretty fakkin fragile TOO lol… just not AS fragile, and were absolutely more capable/competitive.. You just cannot compare. turbo Scorpion or OG Javelin to an RC10, or super dogfighter… it’s apples to oranges imo. But I DO love them none the less..

As far as what I was talking about though-their “current” 1/8 stuff; while they haven’t been anything but barely revised since 2006, they are absolutely top tier stuff.. They just work so well, and are KNOWN for being incredibly easy to drive/predictable, that Kyosho hasn’t HAD TO release anything new… And I won’t touch one of their RTR’s as the quality isn’t even CLOSE to the same (see Philips screws, and subpar plastics/CAST or thin aluminum, etc.), but I would absolutely love to have a TKI4 car AND truck.. That K-car “TAX” suuuuuuuuucks though… Start adding up the upgradesption parts for a Kyosho 1/8, and you’ll see what I mean… They end up HUNDREDS more than an Xray even…

I believe it, which is also why I don't get too excited about nostalgic rc's. Between fragile and no replacement parts, eh. If I had the slush fund, sure.. buut, I don't. If I ever win the lottery, you bet I'll start a museum, till then I just try to keep the crap I got going.

 

[Greywolf74]

To each their own. Although, I can't quite come to an agreement on the product I have being plastic safe, but I am not saying it isn't. I have always assumed there is a specific product used on plastic as a thread lock.
The purple has been holding up for me, even in 1/5 scale.


purple isn't better it is just what I started using.

I just looked up some detailed info. Blue is designed for 6mm or bigger fasteners and purple is made for 6mm and smaller fasteners. I mistakenly thought the purple was the one they make for plastic but i guess thats one of the other colors. That being said, Id prolly be fine with purple for most things but somethings like my pinion grub screws I will always use blue on.

So blue is the strongest? And then purple?

Red is high strength (on smaller fasteners it might as well be permanent), Orange is next strongest, Blue 3rd, and then the purple stuff. They have other colors for other uses but the only two i would consider using for RC is blue and purple.

 

[TeknoJ]

Isn’t it funny how we go off on tangents, I mean we started this topic from vehicle recommendations and now we’re loading @PainKiller up on loctite info, among other things.

 

[Littlemotor]

Isn’t it funny how we go off on tangents, I mean we started this topic from vehicle recommendations and now we’re loading @PainKiller up on loctite info, among other things.

 

[PainKiller]

Isn’t it funny how we go off on tangents, I mean we started this topic from vehicle recommendations and now we’re loading @PainKiller up on loctite info, among other things.

Hahaha , I don’t mind one bit. All this talk is very helpful. I love chatting and learning about this stuff from guys who know what’s what.

Speaking of nostalgia, I remember a buggy from the late 80’s called the Optima Mid. Looked so sick back then. I also would have killed to own an RC10 , Ultima , Frog and Hornet. They looked so badass in the magazines.

 

[CertifiedMike]

One thing that was fun for me about racing back then WAS the brand love and hate. The fact that the cars on the track weren't all the same 2 cars with the same 2 esc's... made racing FUN!!!
Each car had its strong and weak points and each driver needed to KNOW that car.
I think 2wd was sort of all RC10's and Ultima's but 4x4 had Kyosho, Yokomo, Schumacher and even a few Tamiya running.
Some were ultra fast and broke easy, some between, some were eay to repair, some were nightmares. Each car and each driver had a different way "they" were going to win that night.
Ultimately it will come down to driving skill in the A-main.
A well built and maintained "race-grade" r/c shouldn't have a lot of difficulty making it through a couple heats and a main imo.
At the end of it all, the differences in almost ALL those cars made me love SOMETHING about each of them.
In many cases, I'd love to own and run them still today. Did I mention I tore down my Optima Mid for total rebuild???
I don't think I'd recommend this to someone starting out. The chassis is bent. Shock towers are tweaked and a few other issues that would prob ruin a "noob's" day.
There are other things too. Like to start, I don't have intructions for this thing.
I don't really need them for this but on a different car I might have problems.
With a new to you, used car, a person might not be aware of certain things to look for and replace. Each car has its own "wear items" that need regular checkimg on.
I still think your Tekno choice is perfect!!!

 

[PainKiller]

One thing that was fun for me about racing back then WAS the brand love and hate. The fact that the cars on the track weren't all the same 2 cars with the same 2 esc's... made racing FUN!!!
Each car had its strong and weak points and each driver needed to KNOW that car.
I think 2wd was sort of all RC10's and Ultima's but 4x4 had Kyosho, Yokomo, Schumacher and even a few Tamiya running.
Some were ultra fast and broke easy, some between, some were eay to repair, some were nightmares. Each car and each driver had a different way "they" were going to win that night.
Ultimately it will come down to driving skill in the A-main.
A well built and maintained "race-grade" r/c shouldn't have a lot of difficulty making it through a couple heats and a main imo.
At the end of it all, the differences in almost ALL those cars made me love SOMETHING about each of them.
In many cases, I'd love to own and run them still today. Did I mention I tore down my Optima Mid for total rebuild???
I don't think I'd recommend this to someone starting out. The chassis is bent. Shock towers are tweaked and a few other issues that would prob ruin a "noob's" day.
There are other things too. Like to start, I don't have intructions for this thing.
I don't really need them for this but on a different car I might have problems.
With a new to you, used car, a person might not be aware of certain things to look for and replace. Each car has its own "wear items" that need regular checkimg on.
I still think your Tekno choice is perfect!!!

The Tekno is a definite and I’ll get it either October or November. Can’t wait.

As for right now , I’m still clinging to the Rustler Ultimate. But I really like how that Team Associated MT10 looks. It’s gotten a lot of favorable reviews. Then I came across ParkFlyers RC on YT and they sell a completely upgraded version and it’s siiiiiiiick! But expensive. So now that’s in my head.

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

You can collect them all there is no laws (yet) to how many you can have

And don’t buy a built one. Build it yourself with your son. We have just as much fun in the shop as we do in the yard

 

[PainKiller]

You can collect them all there is no laws (yet) to how many you can have

And don’t buy a built one. Build it yourself with your son. We have just as much fun in the shop as we do in the yard

I see myself (us) acquiring multiple RC’s. To start , I’m definitely going with a couple RTR’s. I need to get my feet wet before I dive into that Tekno.

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

I see myself (us) acquiring multiple RC’s. To start , I’m definitely going with a couple RTR’s. I need to get my feet wet before I dive into that Tekno.

For sure! Get the boy excited about it too makes it easier to sell it to the wife

 

[PainKiller]

For sure! Get the boy excited about it too makes it easier to sell it to the wife

Wise words. And I’m discovering just that. My wife sees how pumped my son is and how we’re both getting excited over our new trucks and how we’ll be spending time driving them and working on them together. Not only does she not ask about how much I’ll be spending , she encourages me to get “good ones” so we can enjoy the hobby to it’s fullest. It almost feels like a trick.

 

[Littlemotor]

Wise words. And I’m discovering just that. My wife sees how pumped my son is and how we’re both getting excited over our new trucks and how we’ll be spending time driving them and working on them together. Not only does she not ask about how much I’ll be spending , she encourages me to get “good ones” so we can enjoy the hobby to it’s fullest. It almost feels like a trick.

Then you got a great one.

 

[PainKiller]

Then you got a great one.

Indeed. I lucked out for sure.

Question time : Is replacing a shock as easy as just removing the top and bottom screws on the shock , taking it off and putting on a new shock? There’s no special way to do it as far as keeping the truck sitting level?

 

[Littlemotor]

Indeed. I lucked out for sure.

Question time : Is replacing a shock as easy as just removing the top and bottom screws on the shock , taking it off and putting on a new shock? There’s no special way to do it as far as keeping the truck sitting level?

Correct sir.

I prefer to remove the top nut from the stand-off on the tower, then the retaining pin in the arm (or screw), then pull it from the suspension arm. Then slide it off the standoff. That way you’re not tearing up your bushing at the shock cap/standoff.

 

[PainKiller]

Correct sir.

I prefer to remove the top nut from the stand-off on the tower, then the retaining pin in the arm (or screw), then pull it from the suspension arm. Then slide it off the standoff. That way you’re not tearing up your bushing at the shock cap/standoff.

Great. Thanks. I don’t like the idea of plastic shocks. So if what I get has them , I’m getting aluminum ones to install immediately.

 

[RustyUs]

You guys are the best. Always helpful. And I think I’m def gonna get a Tekno kit sooner rather than later. I’ll get the Rustler (or whatever I decide on) in a few days but maybe I’ll start building the Tekno next month. Xmas seems too far off and I don’t wanna wait. Gonna be a big boy and build it myself

Is it the ET48 2.0 that I should get?

Do I need to pick the motor and electronics right away or doesn’t it matter?

And I saw a Serpent RTR truggy. Any good?

I doubt that you'll find a ET48 2.0 unless you happen to stumble upon a store "off the beaten path". If Fierce Pete/FierceRC doesn't have them, it's a good sign nobody else does either. I usually find the best price on Tekno kits at FierceRC... and not with a veteran's "discount". Use coupons for the best deal if you are squeezing all the $$ savings possible. The next revision of the Tekno ET48 will probably be out shortly. Everybody is waiting for that pre-order announcement.

I should be clear. I meant to be sure to buy and use the proper chemicals and lubes where they recommend to be used.
I didn't mean to imply over use if I did.

Why is purple better?

I have a small blue tube and a stick that I use regularly and it will still last me a lifetime. If I change, I need a reason to buy more of this stuff!

Wait. What? Check expiration dates. I'm a big stickler for the freshest threadlocker I can get. I'll go out of my way to contact sellers to get a package code.

 

[9x19]

Great. Thanks. I don’t like the idea of plastic shocks. So if what I get has them , I’m getting aluminum ones to install immediately.

If you buy the OEM's upgraded shocks, they are an easy swap and you can use the same springs and probably pre-load settings. If you go with a different manufacturer, that can change things.

 

[KnowAir]

Great. Thanks. I don’t like the idea of plastic shocks. So if what I get has them , I’m getting aluminum ones to install immediately.

Are you looking at the Ultimate or VXL? I was going to point you to JRC for Ultimate take off shocks. Which are aluminum, but at $80, not much of a bargain when Amain has them for $60? Difference being that JRC are completely assembled with springs. I think I'd just reuse the springs off the stock Ultras, save the $20 for something else.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/tr...hocks-front-rear-big-bore-gtr-dampers-68077-4

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxa...BvWPBQfiJMOeZ__dxvGNsYzM8n2fZPixoCVXMQAvD_BwE

 

[PainKiller]

Are you looking at the Ultimate or VXL? I was going to point you to JRC for Ultimate take off shocks. Which are aluminum, but at $80, not much of a bargain when Amain has them for $60? Difference being that JRC are completely assembled with springs. I think I'd just reuse the springs off the stock Ultras, save the $20 for something else.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/tr...hocks-front-rear-big-bore-gtr-dampers-68077-4

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxa...BvWPBQfiJMOeZ__dxvGNsYzM8n2fZPixoCVXMQAvD_BwE

View attachment 203848

View attachment 203849

Very nice. I’m 99% sure I’m going with the Rustler 4x4 Ultimate (which comes with GTR shocks). But I’d def wanna upgrade plastic shocks if I got something that came with them.

However , I like the Team Associated MT10. Especially that ParksFlyer RC upgraded MT10.

 

[Littlemotor]

Very nice. I’m 99% sure I’m going with the Rustler 4x4 Ultimate (which comes with GTR shocks). But I’d def wanna upgrade plastic shocks if I got something that came with them.

However , I like the Team Associated MT10. Especially that ParksFlyer RC upgraded MT10.

I’d go Team Associated no doubt about it. The fact that it’s running Reedy Electronics alone would make it a no brainer for me personally. That’s on TOP of the durability difference over the Traxxas.. Not just knocking Traxxas-it’s just a fact lol.